Shaved Door Handles - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

NPilot1975 · 12-16-2004, 10:13 AM

Toying with the idea of shaving my door handles. What size solenoids do I need? Where is the best place to buy solenoids? Does anyone have pics of the solenoids installed and the linkage from them to the latches? Thanx

NPilot1975 · 12-17-2004, 02:46 AM

ttt

RON WOODGEARD · 12-17-2004, 06:28 AM

I just picked up some shaved doors from JunkyardJohn a couple of days ago.. I took the door locking Mechanism out of one of my doors and am in the "Thinking" Process now. There's been a few here that have utilized nothing more then a Door Lock, Selinoid. That's my goal also, as I have that now. In removing all of the Linkages from the opener/Closer/Lock Mechanism There is Very Little pressure to opening or releasing the spinner that keeps the door shut.

I believe I saved some Pictures that were sent to me when I asked this same question a while back.. I'll go through my computer pictures and see if I can find them..

Then I'll do a step by step on it as I did the Autometers behind the Bezel.... Standby for updates.... :p

I'm thinking more now on the Poppers and how to install them....

NPilot1975 · 12-17-2004, 08:07 AM

Thanx for the reply. I am thinking of removing all the mechanisms including the lock also. Just using a button on the inside for release and a remote on the outside. I have also seen the key emergency switches, that I could hide somewhere.

luckydog · 12-17-2004, 10:08 AM

Ron- Junkyard John sells shaved doors? Or are these just one-off?

luckydog · 12-17-2004, 10:10 AM

Oh yea, I got a question. What happens when the battery goes dead, and you can't get in your truck? This is the only hang-up I have with the whole idea, but I'm sure there's a solution given the number of vehicles out there with shaved handles.

67chevemall · 12-17-2004, 10:17 AM

Just get trunk poppers from a new car and build a bracket to hold em down on the door.
Run the cable to the door opening Rod, wire her to a switch and Bam!

NPilot1975 · 12-18-2004, 03:35 AM

Luckydog,

I plan to mount my batteries under the bed and running a set of remote terminals somewhere accessable, like behind the flip down plate. If the battery dies, I just get a jump and I am in.

If your battery is under the hood, you should have no problem. Pop the hood and get a jump, the doors should pop immediately, you will still have to get a jump start to go anywhere.

RON WOODGEARD · 12-18-2004, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luckydog

Ron- Junkyard John sells shaved doors? Or are these just one-off?

I'm sure you could talk him in to doing another set, ( If you weren't in a Hurry) he was going to use these for himself, but he let me have them..(actually Buy Them..)

The best way to be safe if your Battery goes down,, You hook a cable up to the unlocking Mechanism on the drivers side, and run the cable through the door and Door Jamb to a hidden spot.. ( under the hood, under the fender, under the bumper,behind the grille, Etc.Etc...)Then if your battery fails you pull the cable and it unlocks the door to let you in..

My way is to run two batteries, One for everyday use, and the other for Backup, You can use a constant use Selinoid, it would hook the Aux, Battery up Only while the truck is running, ( key in Run position) This keeps it at a full charge. Then if your Main battery should go dead, You have a hidden switch ( or a key switch that is used for old alarm installs, to activate the alarm and de-activate it ) that would trigger the Aux. Battery to the On position and that will give you juice not only to open your doors, but to start the truck/Car...

68LSS1 · 12-18-2004, 12:06 PM

A lot of the guys with street rods use the battery monitors that disconnect it if voltage falls too low. Anothe option for a second battery is Genesis one. Specs here. Very small and light weight.

cochino12 · 12-18-2004, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RON WOODGEARD

I just picked up some shaved doors from JunkyardJohn a couple of days ago.. I took the door locking Mechanism out of one of my doors and am in the "Thinking" Process now. There's been a few here that have utilized nothing more then a Door Lock, Selinoid. That's my goal also, as I have that now. In removing all of the Linkages from the opener/Closer/Lock Mechanism There is Very Little pressure to opening or releasing the spinner that keeps the door shut.

I believe I saved some Pictures that were sent to me when I asked this same question a while back.. I'll go through my computer pictures and see if I can find them..

Then I'll do a step by step on it as I did the Autometers behind the Bezel.... Standby for updates.... :p

I'm thinking more now on the Poppers and how to install them....

That is exactly what I did, they have been working great for over 5 years with a regular $2 door lock actuator.

Tx Firefighter · 12-18-2004, 10:13 PM

I built them out of Chevy starter solenoids. I guarantee you they are stronger than anything else out there. You take the spring and plunger out of an old starter and use a strap of steel across the top to hold it together. If it ever fails, a new GM starter solenoid is about 10 bucks. I build them heavy duty because I work on a lot of old cars with super heavy door latches that are usually half way worn out, so they need the extra thump from a strong solenoid.

Even if you have a locking hood and can't get to the battery, just jack the vehicle up and hook the jumper cables to the starter positive terminal. It's all the same.

NPilot1975 · 12-18-2004, 11:49 PM

Cochino,
Does the door lock mechanism reset itself once the door is popped or do you have to basically "unlock" then "lock" the mechanism so the door will latch again?

XXL · 12-18-2004, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NPilot1975

Cochino,
Does the door lock mechanism reset itself once the door is popped or do you have to basically "unlock" then "lock" the mechanism so the door will latch again?

Lock isn't involved (or needed... since all a lock does is disable the handle... that's not there any more). The "relay" that opens the door has a spring in it to pull it back into place. So... pop, and you're all set to just close the door and it will latch again.

cochino12 · 12-19-2004, 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NPilot1975

Cochino,
Does the door lock mechanism reset itself once the door is popped or do you have to basically "unlock" then "lock" the mechanism so the door will latch again?

Quote:

Originally Posted by XXL

Lock isn't involved (or needed... since all a lock does is disable the handle... that's not there any more). The "relay" that opens the door has a spring in it to pull it back into place. So... pop, and you're all set to just close the door and it will latch again.

XXL get 10 points, exactly right. If you need pics I can send them through email or I will just post them here again.

Adam

RON WOODGEARD · 12-19-2004, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cochino12

That is exactly what I did, they have been working great for over 5 years with a regular $2 door lock actuator.

You are whom I was thinking of.. Do you still have your pics? I saved the ones you sent me and some way or the other I lost them???

cochino12 · 12-19-2004, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RON WOODGEARD

You are whom I was thinking of.. Do you still have your pics? I saved the ones you sent me and some way or the other I lost them???

yep I still have some, I'm heading out the door right now but I'll post them back up later today.

cochino12 · 12-19-2004, 08:11 PM

I cant find pics but here is a thread that I posted a couple on.

Adam

pics

RON WOODGEARD · 12-19-2004, 11:28 PM

Adam, What year is yours ? mine is a 70 and looks totally different...

cochino12 · 12-19-2004, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RON WOODGEARD

Adam, What year is yours ? mine is a 70 and looks totally different...

85

Kris Fuller · 12-20-2004, 02:00 PM

I shaved my 70 inside and out. I have switches in the dash for the doors. Another thing I did for safty inside I used round stock, threaded it at the top, bent it accordingly and attached chrome skulls for pulls. Inside i removed the handles and made a peace of flat stock and bolted it to the remaining latch mech. and now all I have to do is pull up on the door lock and get out of the truck incase of a battery failure or worse a front collision.

Bamm · 12-20-2004, 02:05 PM

Hey Kris, can you post some pics of your setup? Thanks, ......Jerry

Kris Fuller · 12-21-2004, 07:30 AM

Yes I will. Just give me a few days and I will disassemble the door so you can see it all. I will make a new post and put a green arrow to help locate the post.

Wootdog · 12-21-2004, 11:27 AM

I have been trying to get my door setup right for awhile. It sounds easy. It hasn't been. Kerry

nosto · 12-21-2004, 01:54 PM

I've been daily driving like this for 2 year now and am almost used to it.

I bought some 35 lb-pull solenoids and mounted them about 6" below the latch. Welded a washer to release arm and looped cable through. Worked great.....until I aligned the door to the cab and added a new door gasket. Now the thing's so tight (yeah, and the door is really hard to close, and I have small dents in the sheet metal where the handles used to be from having to slam the doors shut), the solenoid won't unlock it unless I lean on the door a bit.

Now I'm experimenting a bit by moving the solenoid to the bottom-middle of the door and added a ~ 2:1 'L' shaped lever to give me some mechanical advantage (something XXL suggested to me a few years back.). Still doesn't pop, but I'm still playing with cable tension.

I'm thinkin' of investing in new door latches, these old ones are really sloppy! Still might not solve the problem, though.

12-16-2004, 10:13 AM	#1
NPilot1975 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Plymouth, MA Posts: 891	Shaved Door Handles Toying with the idea of shaving my door handles. What size solenoids do I need? Where is the best place to buy solenoids? Does anyone have pics of the solenoids installed and the linkage from them to the latches? Thanx __________________ 1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story

12-17-2004, 02:46 AM	#2
NPilot1975 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Plymouth, MA Posts: 891	ttt __________________ 1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story

12-17-2004, 08:07 AM	#4
NPilot1975 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Plymouth, MA Posts: 891	Thanx for the reply. I am thinking of removing all the mechanisms including the lock also. Just using a button on the inside for release and a remote on the outside. I have also seen the key emergency switches, that I could hide somewhere. __________________ 1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story

12-17-2004, 10:08 AM	#5
luckydog < Fav Place on Earth! Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: South West Michigan Posts: 307	Ron- Junkyard John sells shaved doors? Or are these just one-off? __________________ Horsepower is how FAST you hit the wall, torque is how HARD

12-17-2004, 10:10 AM	#6
luckydog < Fav Place on Earth! Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: South West Michigan Posts: 307	Oh yea, I got a question. What happens when the battery goes dead, and you can't get in your truck? This is the only hang-up I have with the whole idea, but I'm sure there's a solution given the number of vehicles out there with shaved handles. __________________ Horsepower is how FAST you hit the wall, torque is how HARD

12-17-2004, 06:28 AM	#3
RON WOODGEARD Resident Young Old Dude ! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Nevada Posts: 1,948	I just picked up some shaved doors from JunkyardJohn a couple of days ago.. I took the door locking Mechanism out of one of my doors and am in the "Thinking" Process now. There's been a few here that have utilized nothing more then a Door Lock, Selinoid. That's my goal also, as I have that now. In removing all of the Linkages from the opener/Closer/Lock Mechanism There is Very Little pressure to opening or releasing the spinner that keeps the door shut. I believe I saved some Pictures that were sent to me when I asked this same question a while back.. I'll go through my computer pictures and see if I can find them.. Then I'll do a step by step on it as I did the Autometers behind the Bezel.... Standby for updates.... :p I'm thinking more now on the Poppers and how to install them....

12-17-2004, 10:17 AM	#7
67chevemall Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: NB Posts: 3,367	Just get trunk poppers from a new car and build a bracket to hold em down on the door. Run the cable to the door opening Rod, wire her to a switch and Bam! __________________ 1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD

12-18-2004, 03:35 AM	#8
NPilot1975 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Plymouth, MA Posts: 891	Luckydog, I plan to mount my batteries under the bed and running a set of remote terminals somewhere accessable, like behind the flip down plate. If the battery dies, I just get a jump and I am in. If your battery is under the hood, you should have no problem. Pop the hood and get a jump, the doors should pop immediately, you will still have to get a jump start to go anywhere. __________________ 1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story

12-18-2004, 12:06 PM	#10
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	A lot of the guys with street rods use the battery monitors that disconnect it if voltage falls too low. Anothe option for a second battery is Genesis one. Specs here. Very small and light weight. __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

12-18-2004, 10:13 PM	#12
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	I built them out of Chevy starter solenoids. I guarantee you they are stronger than anything else out there. You take the spring and plunger out of an old starter and use a strap of steel across the top to hold it together. If it ever fails, a new GM starter solenoid is about 10 bucks. I build them heavy duty because I work on a lot of old cars with super heavy door latches that are usually half way worn out, so they need the extra thump from a strong solenoid. Even if you have a locking hood and can't get to the battery, just jack the vehicle up and hook the jumper cables to the starter positive terminal. It's all the same. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

12-18-2004, 11:49 PM	#13
NPilot1975 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Plymouth, MA Posts: 891	Cochino, Does the door lock mechanism reset itself once the door is popped or do you have to basically "unlock" then "lock" the mechanism so the door will latch again? __________________ 1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story

12-19-2004, 08:11 PM	#18
cochino12 It followed me home? Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Yup Posts: 5,751	I cant find pics but here is a thread that I posted a couple on. Adam pics __________________ Adam That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way. 86 c-10 SWB 85 CCSB 90 GMC K30 Crew SRW 1985 C30 Dually

12-19-2004, 11:28 PM	#19
RON WOODGEARD Resident Young Old Dude ! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Nevada Posts: 1,948	Adam, What year is yours ? mine is a 70 and looks totally different...

12-20-2004, 02:00 PM	#21
Kris Fuller Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Raeford, NC. Posts: 34	I shaved my 70 inside and out. I have switches in the dash for the doors. Another thing I did for safty inside I used round stock, threaded it at the top, bent it accordingly and attached chrome skulls for pulls. Inside i removed the handles and made a peace of flat stock and bolted it to the remaining latch mech. and now all I have to do is pull up on the door lock and get out of the truck incase of a battery failure or worse a front collision.

12-20-2004, 02:05 PM	#22
Bamm Cowboy Fan for Life!!!!!! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Amelia, Virginia Posts: 2,921	Hey Kris, can you post some pics of your setup? Thanks, ......Jerry __________________ 1967 ShortBed Fleetside 3/4 Drop 350/700R4 Tilt wheel 18 x 8 Torque Thrust II's Future mods: All new gauges & wood bed My Zip is 23002 I ship UPS, USPS



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12-21-2004, 07:30 AM	#23
Kris Fuller Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Raeford, NC. Posts: 34	Yes I will. Just give me a few days and I will disassemble the door so you can see it all. I will make a new post and put a green arrow to help locate the post.

12-21-2004, 11:27 AM	#24
Wootdog Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va, USA Posts: 1,683	I would also like to see the setup. I have been trying to get my door setup right for awhile. It sounds easy. It hasn't been. Kerry __________________ 1967 C10 Got it back after three years Boy I sure missed Peppy 1969 Chevelle 1990 IROC Z Convertible 2002 Silverado LT

12-21-2004, 01:54 PM	#25
nosto Flamin' Bass Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Galloway, NJ, US Posts: 315	I've been daily driving like this for 2 year now and am almost used to it. I bought some 35 lb-pull solenoids and mounted them about 6" below the latch. Welded a washer to release arm and looped cable through. Worked great.....until I aligned the door to the cab and added a new door gasket. Now the thing's so tight (yeah, and the door is really hard to close, and I have small dents in the sheet metal where the handles used to be from having to slam the doors shut), the solenoid won't unlock it unless I lean on the door a bit. Now I'm experimenting a bit by moving the solenoid to the bottom-middle of the door and added a ~ 2:1 'L' shaped lever to give me some mechanical advantage (something XXL suggested to me a few years back.). Still doesn't pop, but I'm still playing with cable tension. I'm thinkin' of investing in new door latches, these old ones are really sloppy! Still might not solve the problem, though. Attached Images __________________ Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!

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