Radiator ?

[DJ72CHEVY]

My 72 has the OE 1 row radiator (straight 6) but has a v8 in it know. Would it be ok to run a summit alum. radiator and an external trans. cooler? Or should I just buy a 3 or 4 row OE repalcement radiator with the tranny cooler already in it?

[boraxman]

Im running a OE 3 row w/ 350 auto...no problems whatsoever.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I am also running a stock 3 row with 350/700R4. My tranny burned up after 6,000 miles so I'm going to add a cooler when I get a new one. I'm not completely sure, but I think the I6 tends to run a little hotter than a v-8. I'd drive the truck and see if it overheats? If not, leave it alone. I would run a trans cooler though. I think they are only $30-$50 and new lines will cost about another 15-20 bucks. just my $.02

[Stocker]

I would think oem-style would be the simplest, and 4-row doesn't cost much more than 3-row. Just be sure to specify auto trans and, if necessary, heater hose nipple of the correct size.

[DJ72CHEVY]

Thanks for the info.

The Summit radiator does not have a trans. cooler in it, will a external cooler alone be enough to cool a th350?

Also, the current radiator does not have a trans. cooler, so I was going to replace it anyways.

[gonebad2]

I run an aluminum radiator with an external tranny cooler (350 / 350). Also running a 16" electric fan. Everything runs real cool.

[68w/sbc406]

i have the summit alum rad and a b&m tarnny cooler. for the radiator i made custom upper and lower mounting brackets but it wasnt hard. i have one 16" electric fan off center, but it runs a little warm in the summer, i am looking into changing it

[4x4Poet]

Why Summit alum? Is it cheaper? The oem-style 3 or 4 row with internal tranny cooler fits the rad support and oem trans cooler lines perfectly and provides more than adequate cooling due to its size. The 4 row would need new top and bottom brackets with rubber inserts, but I agree with Stocker. It's a perfect fit for ~$30 more than a three row. I'm about to buy one. My comparison of made in USA with U.S. parts: 3 row $295. 4 row $329. (If anyone knows a cheaper all-U.S. made source, let me know)

IIRC, you only need the rad-mounted heater hose nipple if you have A/C. The A/C compressor blocks the water pump heater hose connection, hence the rad heater hose nipple. Not a bad idea to get the rad w/heater hose nipple if you'll ever add A/C one day. It's easy to pipe plug the water pump.

[OhioDan]

I got a brand new, 4 row rad off ebay from the Rad. Doctor for $165.00 delivered to my door. Comes with auto trans cooler(interrnal), and lifetime warranty. Made by Modine. Below is phone #:

Rad. Doctor
1-800-252-0333

Hope this helps?

[1969K10]

When I put the V8 in my '72, the original 1-row radiator worked most of the time. If I was on the highway and came to a traffic jam and stopped suddenly, it would push the over-heat limits. Also, in the summer, when it got over 95 degrees, it ran hotter than I was happy with, had to drive home at 50MPH to keep the temp down a couple times. A 3-row will handle a V8 just fine, and you don't have to look for the larger 4-row radiator mounts. If you're going to tow, or work the motor hard, go for the 4-row...

[67ChevyRedneck]

This probably wasn't the best place to get it, but I bought my radiator from advanced auto, a 3 row with tranny cooler, for a little under $100. Truck has never gotten hot. I would still run an external tranny cooler.

[da-burb]

www.radiatorbarn.com 4 row OEM for $148.16. do the search for a 396 with A/C for a 1969 truck and you will find it.

[68w/sbc406]

Originally Posted by 4x4Poet

Why Summit alum? Is it cheaper?

i paid 185 to my door for my aluminum radiator, but i did also have to buy a 40 dallor or so tranny cooler to. i think the alum rad looks bad @$$ behind the grill of the 68, plus they supposedly cool better that a brass/copper rad

[4x4Poet]

Couple concerns.

Some of those sources above offer made in Mexico or other overseas made radiators. I favor US made for quality and a little patriotism. Not sure about the Modine from the Rad Doctor. I'll definately check that source. Thanks OhioDan.

Aluminum radiators are great and cool better than brass/copper rads in core-equivalent versions, but only aluminum radiators with no epoxy joints are worthy of truck use. For instance, Griffin uses epoxy to join their tanks to their cores. Griffin rads are known for leak problems at the epoxy joints, as are all epoxy alum rads. They're fine for econo cars, but trucks need stronger stuff for frame-twisting loads and backroad travel, especially for 4x4s. Unfortunately, the best tig-welded alum rads, such as BeCool, cost big bucks. IIRC, less expensive non-epoxy alum rads are available as brazed construction. Not sure about that one. I think the Summit alum rads fall in this category. Worth asking Summit toll-free.