painting minimum temperatures - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Custom 68 · 12-27-2004, 01:36 PM

I had been working just as fast as possible well living here in the great state of Missouri I missed painting this fall cause the temps dropped. Well I am ready and waiting the warm weather.
This week it is supposed to be 60 - 65 outside temp. I can heat my shop up above that but will need to open the doors to exhaust the air as I am painting. the temp wont stay or be at this outside temp very long. Once complete and aired out I can close shop and fire up the heater again and get it nice and warm.
Should I wait till spring or chance it. I have worked very very hard to this point
Thanks
Dave

67chevemall · 12-27-2004, 01:38 PM

Spring=Paint

67ChevyRedneck · 12-27-2004, 01:44 PM

Put on another coat of primer and block sand the hours away till spring. Spring in missouri is probably only 3 months from now anyway....just think, in the north its like 5 months!

DTerry · 12-27-2004, 01:53 PM

If fresh (before the volatiles are mostly out) paint gets too cold, it will cloud and look dull forever.

Are you sure you can't build a semi warm ventilation system. I buy a 10x100 piece of plastic and hang it around the car I'm painting and open it up alittle for ventilation. This also works good to create a "booth" of sorts. It'll also keep the temperature from changing too fast.

Here's another thought. I always wanted to try taking a 10' long piece of duct work, sticking it under the car (low buck downdraft system) with a fan sucking to the outside. Maybe you could try something that.

You MIGHT be OK at 60-65, 65 or up and you're good to go.

Just my ideas...

bigvinnie · 12-27-2004, 09:41 PM

ditto on 65 degrees, seems to be the minimum recommendation, but it needs to be constant or you'll get less than desirable results... not sure about all paints, but PPG specifies different mix ratios for painting at lower temps... I'd probably play it safe and wait for warmer weather.

Custom 68 · 12-27-2004, 10:30 PM

Thanks guys I have spent too much time, effort and money to botch it now. I will wait. Just ansious to get my shop back this thing takes up alot of room apart...
Dave

gonebad2 · 12-27-2004, 10:40 PM

I painted this last weekend. The temp was in the upper 50's. I did heat the garage up for about 12 hours prior to painting. I kept it at a constant 75 degrees. I opened the side door about a foot and ran a fan for exhaust. As soon as the cloud was out, I fired the furnace back up. I used PPG DBU base and Concept acrylic urethane clear (70 degree reducer) with no problems. I think it helps to get the cement floor and the rest of the objects in the garage warm. I have a Reznor 40,000 BTU suspended unit heater. It has a sealed combustion chamber but I just don't have the huevos to run it while I'm shooting paint. The paint came out smooth with no runs, orange peel and great depth.

4x4Poet · 12-28-2004, 12:33 AM

If you can work out the heating issues, painting in Winter has the advantage of few bugs and less dust, especially after rain or when snow is on the ground. Maybe rent a paint booth for a day or two.

vk_chevy · 12-28-2004, 01:11 AM

Painting in 65 deg shouldn't be a problem if you use apropriate reducers. Granted 65 is not the ideal 70-75 but I have painted in 55 degree weather without any isues.

From my experience with some PPG clear coats is that they'll start to fog on you if you go below 50 and the paint is still wet with temperatures dropping and as we all know that causes condensation. Nice thing about modern refinishing products is that flash time is typically very quick if appropriate reducers are used. Also you can look into using accelerators (additives that promote quicker curing)

The other thing to keep in mind if you're painting in cooler temps is respirators collect the moisture from your breath and they'll drip all over flat panels like hoods, roofs and any other big parts that you have to lean over to spray. I've just roll up some tissue paper and put it in the bottom of the respirator (kind of like a diaper and you have to change it out periodically)

Best of luck to you,

4x4Poet · 12-28-2004, 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vk_chevy

...The other thing to keep in mind if you're painting in cooler temps is respirators collect the moisture from your breath and they'll drip all over flat panels like hoods, roofs and any other big parts that you have to lean over to spray. I've just roll up some tissue paper and put it in the bottom of the respirator (kind of like a diaper and you have to change it out periodically)....

Great tip. Thanks.

But did you have to compare with a diaper?

vk_chevy · 12-28-2004, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4x4Poet

Great tip. Thanks.

But did you have to compare with a diaper?

I was just trying to emphasize my point

Custom 68 · 12-28-2004, 10:29 AM

well I guess I will keep my options open I sure would like to see it all one color...
Thanks again
Dave

12-27-2004, 01:36 PM	#1
Custom 68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,939	painting minimum temperatures I had been working just as fast as possible well living here in the great state of Missouri I missed painting this fall cause the temps dropped. Well I am ready and waiting the warm weather. This week it is supposed to be 60 - 65 outside temp. I can heat my shop up above that but will need to open the doors to exhaust the air as I am painting. the temp wont stay or be at this outside temp very long. Once complete and aired out I can close shop and fire up the heater again and get it nice and warm. Should I wait till spring or chance it. I have worked very very hard to this point Thanks Dave __________________ Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!"

12-27-2004, 01:38 PM	#2
67chevemall Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: NB Posts: 3,367	Spring=Paint __________________ 1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD

12-27-2004, 01:44 PM	#3
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Put on another coat of primer and block sand the hours away till spring. Spring in missouri is probably only 3 months from now anyway....just think, in the north its like 5 months! __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!

12-27-2004, 09:41 PM	#5
bigvinnie Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: escondido, ca 92026 Posts: 1,222	ditto on 65 degrees, seems to be the minimum recommendation, but it needs to be constant or you'll get less than desirable results... not sure about all paints, but PPG specifies different mix ratios for painting at lower temps... I'd probably play it safe and wait for warmer weather. __________________ '72 short step, 350, 700R4, tilt, ps, pdb, a/c, lowered coils, etc., other work in progress... San Diego, CA 72 Stepside Project

12-27-2004, 10:30 PM	#6
Custom 68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,939	Thanks guys I have spent too much time, effort and money to botch it now. I will wait. Just ansious to get my shop back this thing takes up alot of room apart... Dave __________________ Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!"

12-27-2004, 01:53 PM	#4
DTerry '70 GMC C-25 LWB Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Binghamton, N.Y. Posts: 273	If fresh (before the volatiles are mostly out) paint gets too cold, it will cloud and look dull forever. Are you sure you can't build a semi warm ventilation system. I buy a 10x100 piece of plastic and hang it around the car I'm painting and open it up alittle for ventilation. This also works good to create a "booth" of sorts. It'll also keep the temperature from changing too fast. Here's another thought. I always wanted to try taking a 10' long piece of duct work, sticking it under the car (low buck downdraft system) with a fan sucking to the outside. Maybe you could try something that. You MIGHT be OK at 60-65, 65 or up and you're good to go. Just my ideas...

12-27-2004, 10:40 PM	#7
gonebad2 Merciless Butcher Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: CC Nevada Posts: 1,447	I painted this last weekend. The temp was in the upper 50's. I did heat the garage up for about 12 hours prior to painting. I kept it at a constant 75 degrees. I opened the side door about a foot and ran a fan for exhaust. As soon as the cloud was out, I fired the furnace back up. I used PPG DBU base and Concept acrylic urethane clear (70 degree reducer) with no problems. I think it helps to get the cement floor and the rest of the objects in the garage warm. I have a Reznor 40,000 BTU suspended unit heater. It has a sealed combustion chamber but I just don't have the huevos to run it while I'm shooting paint. The paint came out smooth with no runs, orange peel and great depth. __________________ Your Bought And Sold....I Got Your Soul!

12-28-2004, 12:33 AM	#8
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	If you can work out the heating issues, painting in Winter has the advantage of few bugs and less dust, especially after rain or when snow is on the ground. Maybe rent a paint booth for a day or two. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

12-28-2004, 01:11 AM	#9
vk_chevy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Olympia, WA Posts: 231	Painting in 65 deg shouldn't be a problem if you use apropriate reducers. Granted 65 is not the ideal 70-75 but I have painted in 55 degree weather without any isues. From my experience with some PPG clear coats is that they'll start to fog on you if you go below 50 and the paint is still wet with temperatures dropping and as we all know that causes condensation. Nice thing about modern refinishing products is that flash time is typically very quick if appropriate reducers are used. Also you can look into using accelerators (additives that promote quicker curing) The other thing to keep in mind if you're painting in cooler temps is respirators collect the moisture from your breath and they'll drip all over flat panels like hoods, roofs and any other big parts that you have to lean over to spray. I've just roll up some tissue paper and put it in the bottom of the respirator (kind of like a diaper and you have to change it out periodically) Best of luck to you, __________________ 72 Chevy C20 Longhorn 72 Chevy, K20 Custom Camper 67 Chevy, LWB, C20, 350/350, PS, PB, 65 Jag MKII

12-28-2004, 10:29 AM	#12
Custom 68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,939	well I guess I will keep my options open I sure would like to see it all one color... Thanks again Dave __________________ Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!"



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