how do you get this off??? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Jeremy_5 · 01-18-2005, 12:55 AM

I was trying to get my radiator support off, and I got all the bolts off expect for the two bolts that hold on each of the rubber mounts. Their are two nuts on the bottom of each bolt and they seem to be stuck together, if I try to remove just one nut the head of the bolt spins and it is flat so I cannot hold it down to remove the nut. I am not sure if this makes sense to anyone

But if someone has done it before can you give me some help!

**kwmech** · 01-18-2005, 01:28 AM

use 2 wrenches on both of the nuts to break them away from each other.

Russell · 01-18-2005, 01:29 AM

Hmm, sounds like it stripped out the little square hole that is suppost to hold the top of that bolt. Maybe give it a couple tack welds around the edges in such a way that you can get the bolt off later if you snap it trying to get the nut off. I had to do this on my GMC's box

stllookn · 01-18-2005, 01:49 AM

If it is so rusty that they rusted together or the square slot in the rad support is rusted out...get the Sawzall, grinder or hot wrench. You will probably just replace those old bolts anyway.

ACES · 01-18-2005, 03:33 AM

I've only removed those on one truck and I had to grind them off.

Jeremy_5 · 01-18-2005, 04:50 AM

thanks guys, tried the two wrenches thing for about 4 hours and a few bloody knuckles later. I also tried the sawzall, it didn't work, but it ran out of battery becuase the truck is out in a field so I have no electricity. Would it be easier using a grinder with like a cutting wheel?

SLS · 01-18-2005, 01:04 PM

Jeremy,

Did you try heating the bolts/nuts with a propane torch?

My bumper bracket bolts were rusted and no amount of penetrating oil (and cuss words) seemed to help. Just when I was about to cut them off my father-in-law (who has worked on more cars than I ever will) told me to grab my little propane torch and heat them up, and then give it a try.

I spent about 5 minutes heating them up....and they came right off with a 1/2" drive ratchet and a wrench.

Give it a try...if you intend to replace the rubber mounting pads.

The propane torch trick has proven very useful several times since then too.

Jeremy_5 · 01-18-2005, 05:07 PM

where can I get a propane torch? How much?

Sounds like a good idea, better than making my knuckles all bloody

67ChevyRedneck · 01-18-2005, 05:11 PM

When I first read the title of this I thought that it should be in the "Shop Talk" forum

If you can get electricity to it, I'd use a grinder.

SLS · 01-18-2005, 10:44 PM

Jeremy,

The one I used is like plumbers use for soldering copper pipes....small, handheld. It consists of a torch that has a knob on it for adjusting the flame and replaceable propane cylinders. For an even HOTTER flame, use a cylinder of MAPP gas (instead of propane).

Any hardware store, Ace , Lowes, Home Depot has them (and the gas).....and they are very cheap.

It looks like this:

SLS has attached this image:

If you really want to heat things up, you could also get a twin-cylinder setup that uses MAPP gas and Oxygen. I use one of these for light brazing work. By mixing MAPP gas and Oxygen together, you can get 6000 degrees at the flame tip! This type of torch cost around 50 (and up)

It looks like this:

SLS has attached this image:

Tx Firefighter · 01-18-2005, 10:55 PM

20 or 30 bucks shuld get you a torch like he's showing. They are invaluable for working on old cars. I use mine all the time to avoid having to string out my big torch.

They won't do the same work as a normal oxy/acetylene torch rig, but they will heat up stuck bolts and stuff real well.

kaycee · 01-18-2005, 10:58 PM

Vice-Grips

72 Cheyenne K20 · 01-18-2005, 11:47 PM

try a nut splitter they work great - cost about 15 to 20 bucks

*72CSTC5* · 01-19-2005, 01:02 PM

Yes those little guys are invaluable until you are heating the inside door latch bolts and not paying attention to the outside of the door getting hot and and bubbling my bodywork on my driver's side door where I shave the door handles and lock. Oh I was pissed. Went back in the house last Saturday and haven't been back in the garage since. Needless to say I never got the screw out!!!!

Blue68 · 01-19-2005, 06:43 PM

I'm with the propane torch too. In a field though, careful not to catch the grass on fire. I had the same problem and went to a handheld hacksaw. I've done that on the door handle screws too when they seized from rust and snapped the clip. It's a bit destructive, but works quick enough, except on high grade bolts.

Jeremy_5 · 01-20-2005, 12:11 AM

Thanks everyone for the help. I went and bought a nut splitter they work good. Both bolts are off, but both of the nut splitters broke. That is a waste of $30, you think they could make them better.

I also invested in a propane torch.

longhorn71 · 01-20-2005, 02:00 AM

i have a pair of mac tool nut splitter for years.i have never had to repalce them.great to take to pick-n-pull because they will not let any torchs in

01-18-2005, 12:55 AM	#1
Jeremy_5 Truck addict Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lincoln, California Posts: 497	how do you get this off??? I was trying to get my radiator support off, and I got all the bolts off expect for the two bolts that hold on each of the rubber mounts. Their are two nuts on the bottom of each bolt and they seem to be stuck together, if I try to remove just one nut the head of the bolt spins and it is flat so I cannot hold it down to remove the nut. I am not sure if this makes sense to anyone But if someone has done it before can you give me some help! __________________ 1956 Chevy Napco 1972 Cheyenne Super 1970 K20

01-18-2005, 01:29 AM	#3
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Hmm, sounds like it stripped out the little square hole that is suppost to hold the top of that bolt. Maybe give it a couple tack welds around the edges in such a way that you can get the bolt off later if you snap it trying to get the nut off. I had to do this on my GMC's box __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

01-18-2005, 01:49 AM	#4
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	If it is so rusty that they rusted together or the square slot in the rad support is rusted out...get the Sawzall, grinder or hot wrench. You will probably just replace those old bolts anyway. __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

01-18-2005, 03:33 AM	#5
ACES Life is a gamble Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Lee's Summit, MO Posts: 796	I've only removed those on one truck and I had to grind them off. __________________ 1970 Orange CST C-10 w/350, posi, Longbed The torpid artist seeks inspiration at any cost, by virtue or by vice, by friend or by fiend, by prayer or by wine. -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

01-18-2005, 04:50 AM	#6
Jeremy_5 Truck addict Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lincoln, California Posts: 497	thanks guys, tried the two wrenches thing for about 4 hours and a few bloody knuckles later. I also tried the sawzall, it didn't work, but it ran out of battery becuase the truck is out in a field so I have no electricity. Would it be easier using a grinder with like a cutting wheel? __________________ 1956 Chevy Napco 1972 Cheyenne Super 1970 K20

01-18-2005, 01:28 AM	#2
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,630	use 2 wrenches on both of the nuts to break them away from each other.

01-18-2005, 01:04 PM	#7
SLS Finish the'71..or bust! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Nashville, TN. Posts: 441	Jeremy, Did you try heating the bolts/nuts with a propane torch? My bumper bracket bolts were rusted and no amount of penetrating oil (and cuss words) seemed to help. Just when I was about to cut them off my father-in-law (who has worked on more cars than I ever will) told me to grab my little propane torch and heat them up, and then give it a try. I spent about 5 minutes heating them up....and they came right off with a 1/2" drive ratchet and a wrench. Give it a try...if you intend to replace the rubber mounting pads. The propane torch trick has proven very useful several times since then too. Last edited by SLS; 01-18-2005 at 01:07 PM.

01-18-2005, 05:07 PM	#8
Jeremy_5 Truck addict Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lincoln, California Posts: 497	where can I get a propane torch? How much? Sounds like a good idea, better than making my knuckles all bloody __________________ 1956 Chevy Napco 1972 Cheyenne Super 1970 K20

01-18-2005, 05:11 PM	#9
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	When I first read the title of this I thought that it should be in the "Shop Talk" forum If you can get electricity to it, I'd use a grinder. __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!

01-18-2005, 10:44 PM	#10
SLS Finish the'71..or bust! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Nashville, TN. Posts: 441	Jeremy, The one I used is like plumbers use for soldering copper pipes....small, handheld. It consists of a torch that has a knob on it for adjusting the flame and replaceable propane cylinders. For an even HOTTER flame, use a cylinder of MAPP gas (instead of propane). Any hardware store, Ace , Lowes, Home Depot has them (and the gas).....and they are very cheap. It looks like this: SLS has attached this image: If you really want to heat things up, you could also get a twin-cylinder setup that uses MAPP gas and Oxygen. I use one of these for light brazing work. By mixing MAPP gas and Oxygen together, you can get 6000 degrees at the flame tip! This type of torch cost around 50 (and up) It looks like this: SLS has attached this image:

01-18-2005, 10:55 PM	#11
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	20 or 30 bucks shuld get you a torch like he's showing. They are invaluable for working on old cars. I use mine all the time to avoid having to string out my big torch. They won't do the same work as a normal oxy/acetylene torch rig, but they will heat up stuck bolts and stuff real well. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

01-18-2005, 10:58 PM	#12
kaycee Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Wyoming USA Posts: 2,449	Vice-Grips __________________ 2001 Silverado K-1500 2005 FXDWG stage3 69 CHEVY Short/Step 327/4L60 373 posi 63 IMPALA 327

01-18-2005, 11:47 PM	#13
72 Cheyenne K20 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Staunton, Virginia Posts: 554	try a nut splitter they work great - cost about 15 to 20 bucks

01-19-2005, 01:02 PM	#14
72CSTC5 Account Suspended Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Deer Park, Tx. Posts: 2,522	Yes those little guys are invaluable until you are heating the inside door latch bolts and not paying attention to the outside of the door getting hot and and bubbling my bodywork on my driver's side door where I shave the door handles and lock. Oh I was pissed. Went back in the house last Saturday and haven't been back in the garage since. Needless to say I never got the screw out!!!!

01-19-2005, 06:43 PM	#15
Blue68 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Frisco, Tx, USA Posts: 606	I'm with the propane torch too. In a field though, careful not to catch the grass on fire. I had the same problem and went to a handheld hacksaw. I've done that on the door handle screws too when they seized from rust and snapped the clip. It's a bit destructive, but works quick enough, except on high grade bolts. __________________ http://home.comcast.net/~r.landrum/w...tos.html-.html '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades.



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01-20-2005, 12:11 AM	#16
Jeremy_5 Truck addict Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lincoln, California Posts: 497	Thanks everyone for the help. I went and bought a nut splitter they work good. Both bolts are off, but both of the nut splitters broke. That is a waste of $30, you think they could make them better. I also invested in a propane torch. __________________ 1956 Chevy Napco 1972 Cheyenne Super 1970 K20

01-20-2005, 02:00 AM	#17
longhorn71 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: CANADA Posts: 1,681	i have a pair of mac tool nut splitter for years.i have never had to repalce them.great to take to pick-n-pull because they will not let any torchs in

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