TP Watts Link Instal Article from Classic Trucks Inside!!!! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Shev · 01-21-2005, 12:19 PM

Right click and "Save Target As" then check it out:

http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_01.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_02.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_03.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_04.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_05.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_06.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_07.jpg

I really don't like how it's welded to the diff cover and the bearings aren't sealed...and it costs $500

And congrats to N2 for making the same issue...

SCOTI · 01-21-2005, 12:40 PM

I agree. It's pretty, but I sure wouldn't trust anything that's welded to the rear-end cover. I've seen them welded to the back side of a 9" housing but there's a little more metal there to weld to.

I think a better idea would be spacers that come off the housing that can attach a 3/16" or 1/4" plate for mounting the pivot link.

smokekiki · 01-21-2005, 01:57 PM

It is also bolted to tabs on either side of the housing.That cover is pretty strong.

lofly'a · 01-21-2005, 04:04 PM

i've read this article and visited the totally polished website, but can't see shelling out 500 bucks for it. the engineering and production cost probably justifys the price, but i have done some research on the setup and am going to design and build one. i don't need a shiny pricey setup under the truck that's only gonna get grimey and pitted from the road crap. this setup is used on mazdas, mustangs, and midgets for racing and is a production setup on some other foreign cars. i found a website on design and theory of the watts link so i'm gonna give it a shot. i have access to all the machine shop tools to do it at work so as soon as i get some stock (gonna use steel) cut out i'll give it a go.

tp's website has a short video on the operation of the watts link installed in a 65 or 66 chevy truck, and it is a sweet setup.

Shev · 01-21-2005, 04:38 PM

I heard the new Durango uses a Watts Link...haven't looked under one though to confirm it...

SCOTI · 01-23-2005, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shev

I heard the new Durango uses a Watts Link...haven't looked under one though to confirm it...

I was under an 05 Durango yesterday @ the shop. It does indeed have a factory 'Watts link' & it mounts off the differential cover. The difference? The differential cover for the Durango had multiple strengthening ribs & was about 3/16" thick & looked like it was cast & not stamped.

However.... the system could be adapted to other vehicles relatively easy using similar methods as the TP kit, but using factory stuff (which may or may not be cheaper depending on your ability to shop around).

roj2323 · 01-21-2005, 07:32 PM

i agree it's an awsome option but it badly needs a redesign. i will draw up a picture of what i mean and post it later.

ondrew

roj2323 · 01-21-2005, 08:11 PM

ok here's what i mean.

in the left picture is the totally polished kit. in the stock format it's really under engineered. the yellow in that picture shows whare i would add a bar to strengthen the conection between the link and the support connection. this would be added to the support bar and not the custom bracket in the right side picture.

in the right side picture is a bracket that would provide the same function as welding the pivot but would let you mount it without welds or additional holes. a couple additional veiws are just below the right side picture.

with these mods the link itself would likely need to be a little bit thinner but if made of steel or stainless steel it would be just as strong or stronger.

just my thoughts,
ondrew

**N2TRUX** · 01-21-2005, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shev

.....And congrats to N2 for making the same issue...

Thanks...

bagged72blaz · 01-22-2005, 01:32 AM

Are you totally sure that TP kit welds to the cover? If it is with that huge aluminum bar you wouldn't need it to be. The pressure is side to side not up and down.

roj2323 · 01-22-2005, 02:38 AM

astuly here is some pressure up and down expecialy with something like leaf suspention. granted with a trailing arm setup the stress is far less but i allways say it's better safe than sorry.
ondrew

lofly'a · 01-22-2005, 05:36 AM

thanks roj2323, i have been thinking along those lines also since i saw a mustang setup. the bracket similar to yours was welded to the rearend instead of bolted. i am thinking along the lines of a channel shaped bracket with mounting tabs. i wish you were closer too, we could brainstorm the hell out of this thing. as soon as i get some bearings and bolts i'll finish the design and start milling.

and yes it is welded to the diff cover bagged72blaz, the whole install is in this months custom classic trucks mag. that's the only thing i don't really like about the tp setup.

Shev · 01-22-2005, 10:00 AM

The complete article is in the links at the beginning of this post...right click, save them and check it out if you haven't...

Also looks to me as if the heim joints that are on the pivot are locked and only allowed to move up and down...any agree?

Also no seals for the bearings

bagged72blaz · 01-23-2005, 02:48 AM

What about one of the thick aluminum diff covers that have the cooling fins and machine it down.

lofly'a · 01-23-2005, 04:47 AM

i agree on the bearing issue shev. why are they using taper bearings anyway, they are primarily for thrust, as in end loading like a clutch release or wheel bearing endures while steering the front wheels in a turn, and the watts link is only gonna be radially loaded. i can only see using taper roller bearings if the rearend moved forward and backwards which it does'nt. i'm designing mine to use regular sealed ball bearings, but i may take the seals out of the inside and add a zerk ot the housing. the heims are moving up and down in the video, and only orbitally rotate a small amount.

if my thinking is going south someone please straighten me out.

AirMale · 01-23-2005, 07:42 AM

I've been brain-storming with everyone here as well. I would like to see a design that uses all 10-12 bolts on the rear pumpkin. If you look at one of the S-10 locators from ***************** he has done just that. I was thinking about making a template from a cover or a gasket so it lays inside the lip on the cover. Then I would weld some gussets across vertically and horzontally to mount the bell crank to.

GMCGRANDS · 01-23-2005, 11:54 AM

What if you used a T/A performance cover? They make a 12 bolt truck aluminum cover.Check out the link. http://www.taperformance.com/gm.htm

LONGHAIR · 01-23-2005, 02:04 PM

I really don't think that the link being welded to the cover is all that weak. It is being used to oppose that aluminum bracket, supporting the pivot shaft.
It is a lot stronger with support on both sides.
I am rather shocked that they don't include a new cover as part of the kit though...pre-installed (Chromed, painted or even raw for powder-coating)

I would agree that this is a pricey/flashy set-up that can be produced by a competant fabricator for a lot less $$$.

SCOTI · 01-23-2005, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

I really don't think that the link being welded to the cover is all that weak. It is being used to oppose that aluminum bracket, supporting the pivot shaft.
It is a lot stronger with support on both sides.

I agree. It's mainly used to support both sides which is not a requirement (the Durango doesn't require support on both sides). I just don't like something welded to those thin 12-bolt differential covers. A frame of some sort that bolts to the actual housing (utilizing spacers) would look much more professional IMO.

XXL · 01-26-2005, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMCGRANDS

What if you used a T/A performance cover? They make a 12 bolt truck aluminum cover.Check out the link. http://www.taperformance.com/gm.htm

ka-ching!

TA 1811 27 $159.95 12 Bolt Cover, Truck 12 Bolt Chevy Type Truck Differentials

el curioso · 01-26-2005, 04:01 PM

Is this what you guys have been trying to make or explain.......

Pictures courtesy of www.ifcustom.com

smokekiki · 01-24-2005, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lofly'a

i agree on the bearing issue shev. why are they using taper bearings anyway, they are primarily for thrust, as in end loading like a clutch release or wheel bearing endures while steering the front wheels in a turn, and the watts link is only gonna be radially loaded. i can only see using taper roller bearings if the rearend moved forward and backwards which it does'nt. i'm designing mine to use regular sealed ball bearings, but i may take the seals out of the inside and add a zerk ot the housing. the heims are moving up and down in the video, and only orbitally rotate a small amount.

if my thinking is going south someone please straighten me out.

I don't know if there is a reason for using the taper bearings other than they are s-10 wheel bearings,which are,and wll be, availible at any parts store for years to come.

lofly'a · 01-24-2005, 03:50 AM

got my pivot link cut out and welded up, almost time to start machining. i am using 1/2" x 3" bar stock (3 pieces to make pivot). gonna make a center mount like roj2323 drew up (thanks), but gonna use a piece of shallow channel 2" x 1/2". may be a while before i can test the true benefits of this setup but at least i'll already have it made. using sealed ball bearings 2"OD, 1/2"ID, 9/16"W and 3/4" threaded male rod ends with 5/8"ID. gonna get pics soon as i get all the parts cut out and mocked up which may take a while.

roj2323 · 01-24-2005, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lofly'a

got my pivot link cut out and welded up, almost time to start machining. i am using 1/2" x 3" bar stock (3 pieces to make pivot). gonna make a center mount like roj2323 drew up (thanks), but gonna use a piece of shallow channel 2" x 1/2". may be a while before i can test the true benefits of this setup but at least i'll already have it made. using sealed ball bearings 2"OD, 1/2"ID, 9/16"W and 3/4" threaded male rod ends with 5/8"ID. gonna get pics soon as i get all the parts cut out and mocked up which may take a while.

ROCK ON MAN

post pics when you can.
ondrew

BK · 01-26-2005, 02:53 AM

what do you guys think about this setup http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/product.htm i think it would work, maybe make a different or another bracket for the center to pivot on, think it would work, let me know whacha think.

01-21-2005, 12:19 PM	#1
Shev Head Peon Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Imlay City MI Posts: 296	TP Watts Link Instal Article from Classic Trucks Inside!!!! Right click and "Save Target As" then check it out: http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_01.jpg http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_02.jpg http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_03.jpg http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_04.jpg http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_05.jpg http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_06.jpg http://www.geocities.com/sshevnock/TP/TP_Watts_07.jpg I really don't like how it's welded to the diff cover and the bearings aren't sealed...and it costs $500 And congrats to N2 for making the same issue... __________________ '72 Suburban, factory tilt, tach, front & rear AC, front & rear disc brakes, 383/700-R4

01-21-2005, 12:40 PM	#2
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,939	I agree. It's pretty, but I sure wouldn't trust anything that's welded to the rear-end cover. I've seen them welded to the back side of a 9" housing but there's a little more metal there to weld to. I think a better idea would be spacers that come off the housing that can attach a 3/16" or 1/4" plate for mounting the pivot link. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

01-21-2005, 01:57 PM	#3
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,474	It is also bolted to tabs on either side of the housing.That cover is pretty strong. __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

01-21-2005, 04:04 PM	#4
lofly'a Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Alexandria, LA 71301 Posts: 1,451	i've read this article and visited the totally polished website, but can't see shelling out 500 bucks for it. the engineering and production cost probably justifys the price, but i have done some research on the setup and am going to design and build one. i don't need a shiny pricey setup under the truck that's only gonna get grimey and pitted from the road crap. this setup is used on mazdas, mustangs, and midgets for racing and is a production setup on some other foreign cars. i found a website on design and theory of the watts link so i'm gonna give it a shot. i have access to all the machine shop tools to do it at work so as soon as i get some stock (gonna use steel) cut out i'll give it a go. tp's website has a short video on the operation of the watts link installed in a 65 or 66 chevy truck, and it is a sweet setup. __________________ -02 avalanche (daily driver) -66 gto ragtop 389/400 (garage queen, hand-me-down from dad) -72 Tribute Trans Am (6.0LS/T56 6-speed) in progress -2003 YUKON (Wife's) -71 gmc swb fleet (current project, gonna shave everything, bags, stuff w/ 20's, gen III powertrain) -48 3100 SWB - 12/31/23 LONG TERM Project Last edited by lofly'a; 01-21-2005 at 07:35 PM.

01-21-2005, 04:38 PM	#5
Shev Head Peon Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Imlay City MI Posts: 296	I heard the new Durango uses a Watts Link...haven't looked under one though to confirm it... __________________ '72 Suburban, factory tilt, tach, front & rear AC, front & rear disc brakes, 383/700-R4

01-21-2005, 07:32 PM	#7
roj2323 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Somewhere Posts: 985	i agree it's an awsome option but it badly needs a redesign. i will draw up a picture of what i mean and post it later. ondrew

01-21-2005, 08:11 PM	#8
roj2323 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Somewhere Posts: 985	ok here's what i mean. in the left picture is the totally polished kit. in the stock format it's really under engineered. the yellow in that picture shows whare i would add a bar to strengthen the conection between the link and the support connection. this would be added to the support bar and not the custom bracket in the right side picture. in the right side picture is a bracket that would provide the same function as welding the pivot but would let you mount it without welds or additional holes. a couple additional veiws are just below the right side picture. with these mods the link itself would likely need to be a little bit thinner but if made of steel or stainless steel it would be just as strong or stronger. just my thoughts, ondrew

01-22-2005, 01:32 AM	#10
bagged72blaz Got L.E.D.s Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Craig Co. Posts: 195	Are you totally sure that TP kit welds to the cover? If it is with that huge aluminum bar you wouldn't need it to be. The pressure is side to side not up and down. __________________ Bagged 1972 2wd Blazer http://www.earlyclassic.com/home.aspx

01-22-2005, 02:38 AM	#11
roj2323 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Somewhere Posts: 985	astuly here is some pressure up and down expecialy with something like leaf suspention. granted with a trailing arm setup the stress is far less but i allways say it's better safe than sorry. ondrew

01-22-2005, 05:36 AM	#12
lofly'a Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Alexandria, LA 71301 Posts: 1,451	thanks roj2323, i have been thinking along those lines also since i saw a mustang setup. the bracket similar to yours was welded to the rearend instead of bolted. i am thinking along the lines of a channel shaped bracket with mounting tabs. i wish you were closer too, we could brainstorm the hell out of this thing. as soon as i get some bearings and bolts i'll finish the design and start milling. and yes it is welded to the diff cover bagged72blaz, the whole install is in this months custom classic trucks mag. that's the only thing i don't really like about the tp setup. __________________ -02 avalanche (daily driver) -66 gto ragtop 389/400 (garage queen, hand-me-down from dad) -72 Tribute Trans Am (6.0LS/T56 6-speed) in progress -2003 YUKON (Wife's) -71 gmc swb fleet (current project, gonna shave everything, bags, stuff w/ 20's, gen III powertrain) -48 3100 SWB - 12/31/23 LONG TERM Project

01-22-2005, 10:00 AM	#13
Shev Head Peon Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Imlay City MI Posts: 296	The complete article is in the links at the beginning of this post...right click, save them and check it out if you haven't... Also looks to me as if the heim joints that are on the pivot are locked and only allowed to move up and down...any agree? Also no seals for the bearings __________________ '72 Suburban, factory tilt, tach, front & rear AC, front & rear disc brakes, 383/700-R4 Last edited by Shev; 01-22-2005 at 10:09 AM.

01-23-2005, 02:48 AM	#14
bagged72blaz Got L.E.D.s Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Craig Co. Posts: 195	What about one of the thick aluminum diff covers that have the cooling fins and machine it down. __________________ Bagged 1972 2wd Blazer http://www.earlyclassic.com/home.aspx

01-23-2005, 04:47 AM	#15
lofly'a Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Alexandria, LA 71301 Posts: 1,451	i agree on the bearing issue shev. why are they using taper bearings anyway, they are primarily for thrust, as in end loading like a clutch release or wheel bearing endures while steering the front wheels in a turn, and the watts link is only gonna be radially loaded. i can only see using taper roller bearings if the rearend moved forward and backwards which it does'nt. i'm designing mine to use regular sealed ball bearings, but i may take the seals out of the inside and add a zerk ot the housing. the heims are moving up and down in the video, and only orbitally rotate a small amount. if my thinking is going south someone please straighten me out. __________________ -02 avalanche (daily driver) -66 gto ragtop 389/400 (garage queen, hand-me-down from dad) -72 Tribute Trans Am (6.0LS/T56 6-speed) in progress -2003 YUKON (Wife's) -71 gmc swb fleet (current project, gonna shave everything, bags, stuff w/ 20's, gen III powertrain) -48 3100 SWB - 12/31/23 LONG TERM Project

01-23-2005, 07:42 AM	#16
AirMale Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Atlantic City, NJ Posts: 1,073	I've been brain-storming with everyone here as well. I would like to see a design that uses all 10-12 bolts on the rear pumpkin. If you look at one of the S-10 locators from ***************** he has done just that. I was thinking about making a template from a cover or a gasket so it lays inside the lip on the cover. Then I would weld some gussets across vertically and horzontally to mount the bell crank to. __________________ 86 SWB 9.0 LITER T-400-OD 4.11 eaton-4/5 drop Best 1/4 12.51 @112mph no traction

01-23-2005, 11:54 AM	#17
GMCGRANDS Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Franklin , N.C. USA Posts: 105	What if you used a T/A performance cover? They make a 12 bolt truck aluminum cover.Check out the link. http://www.taperformance.com/gm.htm __________________ Mark 72'GMC Sierra Grande 2wd SWB, Fatman stageV IFS, 6.0 liter LQ4 Gen 3 and 4L80E under construction 05' GMC Sierra Denali LQ9



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

01-23-2005, 02:04 PM	#18
LONGHAIR just can't cover up my redneck Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 11,414	I really don't think that the link being welded to the cover is all that weak. It is being used to oppose that aluminum bracket, supporting the pivot shaft. It is a lot stronger with support on both sides. I am rather shocked that they don't include a new cover as part of the kit though...pre-installed (Chromed, painted or even raw for powder-coating) I would agree that this is a pricey/flashy set-up that can be produced by a competant fabricator for a lot less $$$.

01-26-2005, 04:01 PM	#21
el curioso Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: El paso, Tx. Posts: 428	Is this what every one is talking about Is this what you guys have been trying to make or explain....... Pictures courtesy of www.ifcustom.com Last edited by el curioso; 01-26-2005 at 04:04 PM.

01-24-2005, 03:50 AM	#23
lofly'a Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Alexandria, LA 71301 Posts: 1,451	got my pivot link cut out and welded up, almost time to start machining. i am using 1/2" x 3" bar stock (3 pieces to make pivot). gonna make a center mount like roj2323 drew up (thanks), but gonna use a piece of shallow channel 2" x 1/2". may be a while before i can test the true benefits of this setup but at least i'll already have it made. using sealed ball bearings 2"OD, 1/2"ID, 9/16"W and 3/4" threaded male rod ends with 5/8"ID. gonna get pics soon as i get all the parts cut out and mocked up which may take a while. __________________ -02 avalanche (daily driver) -66 gto ragtop 389/400 (garage queen, hand-me-down from dad) -72 Tribute Trans Am (6.0LS/T56 6-speed) in progress -2003 YUKON (Wife's) -71 gmc swb fleet (current project, gonna shave everything, bags, stuff w/ 20's, gen III powertrain) -48 3100 SWB - 12/31/23 LONG TERM Project

01-26-2005, 02:53 AM	#25
BK BK Built Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Oroville, WA Posts: 478	what do you guys think about this setup http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/product.htm i think it would work, maybe make a different or another bracket for the center to pivot on, think it would work, let me know whacha think.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.