Removing front crossmember - questions - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

BubbaGreen · 04-08-2002, 02:35 PM

Hey guys,
I would like to pull the front cross member out of my truck....
The engine & transmission is out, what is the easiest/safest way to accomplish this?

It is pretty much stipped down to just the
crossmember, wheels are still on at this time.
Do I need to put the motor back in to do this, the main reason, is I want to replace all the suspention components, upper/lower
shafts and ball joints. And do some cleaning
while I am at it. Thanks.

------------------
71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside WAS:307w/3-on-the-tree NOW:350TBI/700R4/3.73
See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich

*racedvl* · 04-08-2002, 02:38 PM

I've never done it, but I say, make sure all your brake lines are out of the way, make sure it's all disconnected, and unbolted, and roll that bad boy out!

------------------

http://hometown.aol.com/racedvl/racedvl69index.html

Woodstock,IL.northwest of Chicago

It's not what you buy, it's what you build!!

I did not climb to the top of the food chain, to become a vegetarian.

For some pics of my truck.

**Desert Rat** · 04-08-2002, 02:43 PM

They are simple to remove bolts on each side where upper a arms bolt to.might take some cohesion to get it out,and sometimes a pain to put back in if the frame stretches and bows a hair-so its hard to get back inside sometimes-but a come-along to pull the frame in together fixes that simply/but sometimes they fall out and slip right back in.usually if everythings reall greasy and oily they come apart easier,but if frame is dry and crusty,sometimes harder,maybe cause they rust together a bit.I certainly wouldnt put motor in thatd be pointless,and when you put it back together-use the bolts that came out of it,not some 2 cent hardware store bolt.where the hell is the cents key?????i cant find it!!!

Brad · 04-08-2002, 03:20 PM

If you're wanting to replace suspension components, I think you'll need to put the engine back in so that you've got some weight on the front end. Otherwise you've got some dangerous spring tension if you start unbolting suspension stuff. If you're just swapping front crossmembers with a later model truck, then you could just unbolt, slide out, slide new stuff in, and bolt back up with some minor hole enlarging. Just make sure you wrap a chain around the springs before doing ball joints or control arms.

------------------
WOU in Monmouth, Or
68 Camaro,250(No,I'm not putting in a 350!)
67,LWB,250(Again, I'm not putting in a 350!)
a work in progress
"Praise The Lowered"

Hutch · 04-08-2002, 03:48 PM

BubbaGreen,
I am right about the same stage. I found an article that explains it pretty well.
You might want to check out the whole article. This link will get you to the front-end disassembly part. http://www.earlyclassic.com/ctfeb2001pg1.html

------------------
John Hutchison
Grapevine,Texas
76051
71 1/2 ton swb 307 pg
69 Jaguar XK-E 4.2 Roadster

DarkFox1 · 04-08-2002, 04:14 PM

theres something like 14 bolts total holding this crossmember on. you can remove it with brake lines and fuel lines, but they will probablly get in the way, its a good idea to push them out of the way.. 3 bolts holding it from underneath on each side, 2 on each side of the C channel.. thats only 10 hrmm maybe I missed some. At any rate, you can remove this with A-arms and all on it, I have an entire from assembly off a '69/70 sitting in a torn up SWB bed out behind the garage (you can see it in a bunch of my pictures)

the things not heavy, unless the suspension is still on it. Its best to have 2 people ready to move it at any rate, just because of its size.

------------------
Projects
Belair '71 C10 LWB to SWB conversion:C10 project page
65Chevelle pics coming soon

*Fast68Chevy* · 04-09-2002, 02:38 AM

10 bolts yeap, 3 on top side of cradle and two pointing out from inside frame rail threaded into the upper arm mounting bracket that is riveted to the cradle

the cradle stripped down is very light, lighter than you think, you will see,,

if you ar epulling cradle off thjen you wil not want engine in unless you want a big accident to happen to frame rails and engine

good luck

------------------
Randy- Lincoln, IL
r68c30@hotmail.com

71 C-10, trying to assemble....sigh..
parting out 5.0LTPI '81 cutlass supreme brougham
*Paint is overrated
© RSS Enterprises 2000

BubbaGreen · 04-09-2002, 10:11 AM

Hey guys,
Guess I should have clarified better...
I want to completely dis-assemble the front
cross-member (to rebuild all the parts),
ie, balljoints, shafts, etc...
While am I at it, i want to remove the
crossmember to clean it up and paint it.
How should I approach this:

1.] put the motor back in (for weight)
and pull the springs out, then pull the
motor back out, and remove the crossmember?

2.] Just remove the cross-member, but then
what is the safe way to dis-assemble it?

Thanks,

------------------
71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside WAS:307w/3-on-the-tree NOW:350TBI/700R4/3.73
See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich

69 longhorn · 04-09-2002, 10:19 AM

Are you installing new springs? If so,you can pull the cradle as an assy,then reach in with a torch&cut the springs to relieve tension. Then just install the new springs after the eng is back in place.....69 longhorn.

BubbaGreen · 04-09-2002, 10:40 AM

Well that is an idea, but I hadnt planned on
replacing the springs, (although I probably
should) The truck still sits very level and I am not sure even if I am going to keep it
at stock height...thats why I want to use the
old springs for now...if I decide later that
I want to lower it a couple of inches on the
front...only 2 max for me...should I go with
drop springs or new drop spindles?
But as of right now, I was going to use the
old springs....

------------------
71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside WAS:307w/3-on-the-tree NOW:350TBI/700R4/3.73
See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich

69 longhorn · 04-09-2002, 11:35 AM

a dropped spindle would be the best route,you should be able to get a 2 or 2 1/2". You can go up to 2 " drop on the spring......much more, & you will have geometry problems,& bump steer due to the tierod angles. good luck....69 longhorn

70 Jimmy · 04-09-2002, 11:57 AM

Here's how I would do it:

-Remove the front clip (optional but gives alot of room to work).
-Disassemble the front end.
-Pull the motor.
-Pull the crossmember/clean/paint/etc.
-Install the crossmember.
-Install the engine.
-Rebuild the front end.
-Install the front clip.

Good Luck

------------------
"KEEP IT DOWN!"
70 Jimmy 454 2wd
56 GMC Big Window

04-08-2002, 02:35 PM	#1
BubbaGreen Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cedar Park, TX Posts: 686	Removing front crossmember - questions Hey guys, I would like to pull the front cross member out of my truck.... The engine & transmission is out, what is the easiest/safest way to accomplish this? It is pretty much stipped down to just the crossmember, wheels are still on at this time. Do I need to put the motor back in to do this, the main reason, is I want to replace all the suspention components, upper/lower shafts and ball joints. And do some cleaning while I am at it. Thanks. ------------------ 71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside WAS:307w/3-on-the-tree NOW:350TBI/700R4/3.73 See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich __________________ 71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside RamJet-350/4L60e & Compushift/3.73Posi See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich

04-08-2002, 03:20 PM	#4
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,672	If you're wanting to replace suspension components, I think you'll need to put the engine back in so that you've got some weight on the front end. Otherwise you've got some dangerous spring tension if you start unbolting suspension stuff. If you're just swapping front crossmembers with a later model truck, then you could just unbolt, slide out, slide new stuff in, and bolt back up with some minor hole enlarging. Just make sure you wrap a chain around the springs before doing ball joints or control arms. ------------------ WOU in Monmouth, Or 68 Camaro,250(No,I'm not putting in a 350!) 67,LWB,250(Again, I'm not putting in a 350!) a work in progress "Praise The Lowered" __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten...

04-08-2002, 03:48 PM	#5
Hutch Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Grapevine, Tx. Posts: 2,142	BubbaGreen, I am right about the same stage. I found an article that explains it pretty well. You might want to check out the whole article. This link will get you to the front-end disassembly part. http://www.earlyclassic.com/ctfeb2001pg1.html ------------------ John Hutchison Grapevine,Texas 76051 71 1/2 ton swb 307 pg 69 Jaguar XK-E 4.2 Roadster __________________ John Hutchison Grapevine,Texas 68 1/2 t swb 68 Mustang 69 Jaguar 71 1/2 t swb 88 Supra CompTs6m 93 Escort GT 2005 Corolla XRS

04-09-2002, 10:11 AM	#8
BubbaGreen Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cedar Park, TX Posts: 686	Hey guys, Guess I should have clarified better... I want to completely dis-assemble the front cross-member (to rebuild all the parts), ie, balljoints, shafts, etc... While am I at it, i want to remove the crossmember to clean it up and paint it. How should I approach this: 1.] put the motor back in (for weight) and pull the springs out, then pull the motor back out, and remove the crossmember? 2.] Just remove the cross-member, but then what is the safe way to dis-assemble it? Thanks, ------------------ 71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside WAS:307w/3-on-the-tree NOW:350TBI/700R4/3.73 See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich __________________ 71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside RamJet-350/4L60e & Compushift/3.73Posi See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich

04-09-2002, 10:19 AM	#9
69 longhorn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: rock island,il,usa Posts: 5,382	Are you installing new springs? If so,you can pull the cradle as an assy,then reach in with a torch&cut the springs to relieve tension. Then just install the new springs after the eng is back in place.....69 longhorn. __________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/hotrodhorn

04-08-2002, 02:38 PM	#2
racedvl Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 7,020	I've never done it, but I say, make sure all your brake lines are out of the way, make sure it's all disconnected, and unbolted, and roll that bad boy out! ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/racedvl/racedvl69index.html Woodstock,IL.northwest of Chicago It's not what you buy, it's what you build!! I did not climb to the top of the food chain, to become a vegetarian. For some pics of my truck.

04-08-2002, 02:43 PM	#3
Desert Rat Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Darrington, Washington Posts: 3,963	They are simple to remove bolts on each side where upper a arms bolt to.might take some cohesion to get it out,and sometimes a pain to put back in if the frame stretches and bows a hair-so its hard to get back inside sometimes-but a come-along to pull the frame in together fixes that simply/but sometimes they fall out and slip right back in.usually if everythings reall greasy and oily they come apart easier,but if frame is dry and crusty,sometimes harder,maybe cause they rust together a bit.I certainly wouldnt put motor in thatd be pointless,and when you put it back together-use the bolts that came out of it,not some 2 cent hardware store bolt.where the hell is the cents key?????i cant find it!!!

04-08-2002, 04:14 PM	#6
DarkFox1 in WAY over my head Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Douglasville GA Posts: 923	theres something like 14 bolts total holding this crossmember on. you can remove it with brake lines and fuel lines, but they will probablly get in the way, its a good idea to push them out of the way.. 3 bolts holding it from underneath on each side, 2 on each side of the C channel.. thats only 10 hrmm maybe I missed some. At any rate, you can remove this with A-arms and all on it, I have an entire from assembly off a '69/70 sitting in a torn up SWB bed out behind the garage (you can see it in a bunch of my pictures) the things not heavy, unless the suspension is still on it. Its best to have 2 people ready to move it at any rate, just because of its size. ------------------ Projects Belair '71 C10 LWB to SWB conversion:C10 project page 65Chevelle pics coming soon

04-09-2002, 02:38 AM	#7
Fast68Chevy Account Suspended Join Date: May 2000 Location: IL Posts: 0	10 bolts yeap, 3 on top side of cradle and two pointing out from inside frame rail threaded into the upper arm mounting bracket that is riveted to the cradle the cradle stripped down is very light, lighter than you think, you will see,, if you ar epulling cradle off thjen you wil not want engine in unless you want a big accident to happen to frame rails and engine good luck ------------------ Randy- Lincoln, IL r68c30@hotmail.com 71 C-10, trying to assemble....sigh.. parting out 5.0LTPI '81 cutlass supreme brougham *Paint is overrated © RSS Enterprises 2000

04-09-2002, 10:40 AM	#10
BubbaGreen Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cedar Park, TX Posts: 686	Well that is an idea, but I hadnt planned on replacing the springs, (although I probably should) The truck still sits very level and I am not sure even if I am going to keep it at stock height...thats why I want to use the old springs for now...if I decide later that I want to lower it a couple of inches on the front...only 2 max for me...should I go with drop springs or new drop spindles? But as of right now, I was going to use the old springs.... ------------------ 71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside WAS:307w/3-on-the-tree NOW:350TBI/700R4/3.73 See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich __________________ 71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside RamJet-350/4L60e & Compushift/3.73Posi See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich

04-09-2002, 11:35 AM	#11
69 longhorn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: rock island,il,usa Posts: 5,382	a dropped spindle would be the best route,you should be able to get a 2 or 2 1/2". You can go up to 2 " drop on the spring......much more, & you will have geometry problems,& bump steer due to the tierod angles. good luck....69 longhorn __________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/hotrodhorn

04-09-2002, 11:57 AM	#12
70 Jimmy aka Crusher, Crushergmc Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,834	Here's how I would do it: -Remove the front clip (optional but gives alot of room to work). -Disassemble the front end. -Pull the motor. -Pull the crossmember/clean/paint/etc. -Install the crossmember. -Install the engine. -Rebuild the front end. -Install the front clip. Good Luck ------------------ "KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window __________________ "KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window "It's funny till someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious"



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