Traction challenged...

[Purs]

Has anyone ever put a big block in the rear frame holes (4wd or I6 position)on a 2wd truck? I know people have stuffed big blocks in 4wd's doing this. I'm looking to get the weight as far back as possible for better traction. I know the tranny will have to be moved back and the driveline will have to be shortened. What other problems have you guys that have done this run into? Many thanks!

[RED67]

firewall clearence for head covers especially if your running tall valve covers......

[Purs]

thanks Red, did you get my PM?

['70_402]

I probally would leave the motor in the stock big block location and look into getting a four link or something of that sort..i would look into other options other than front wieght transfer...just my .02

[Purs]

70' 402, you're probably right, I'm a novice when it comes to traction and trucks. However, everything I've read says the further back the weight the better. I just figured someone had done it before... I don't really want to mess with the stock rear suspension setup as I've seen several guys going really fast (low 10's) with the stock design. I won't be that fast, at least not until I give in and spray this beast

['70_402]

If you don't want to mess with the rear suspension that much then i would get some coilovers, really strong rear end, relocate the gas tank to the rear (if not done already.) and then if you want to go the extreme, give it a slight tub and put some street slicks on it.. not too wide just enough to notice a differnce.. i ran into this problem last year and i just learned to not get on it as hard..hehe (i don't learn to well) so i buy new rear tires about twice a year..

[junkyardjohn]

I BUILT A TRUCK USING A 69 FRAME, WITH A 75 FRONT END WITH DISCs. IT WAS A SHORT BED WITH ALL 71 SHEETMETAL. I HAD A 468 THAT I BUILT WITH ALL THE GOOD STUFF (FORGED STEEL CRANK, .O49 HEADS (PORTED/POLISHED BIGGER VALVES), NICE CAM, POLISHED RODS, FORGED PISTONS) I HAD A T-400 WITH A STAGE 2 SHIFT KIT & A 12 BOLT POSI WITH A 373, & WAS COIL SPRUNG. IT WOULD HOOK UP UNBELIEVABLY. I HAD BFG 325 TRUCK RADIALS & IT HOOKED UP AS GOOD AS ANY CAR I'VE EVER OWNED. JOHN

[Purs]

give me another month or so.... here's where I'm at right now. Dyno this weekend. Then all I have to do is rebuild and swap the rear end (5 lug) swap the front crossmember for a 5 lug, drop the engine in, buy and install 5 lug rims....whew! Then I'll be ready to go. OK, maybe it will take a little more than a month...

[FirstGen]

147-3757R Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial, 325/50R15, 28" tall

You WILL hook up

On the street you might spin for a few feet. Probably not though with an automatic tranny. At the track you will only break stuff. No spinning gonna happen with those.

[Cat Fuzz]

Oh, man, thats nice. I wanna build another motor!! WAAAAA!!!!


It's been 12 years since I rebuilt my 327. Still runs strong.

[Purs]

not to disagree FirstGen, but I had a set of 325/50 BFG Drag Radials behind my last 461 (in my 3700.lbs Chevelle) and could send those up in smoke at will on the street.... I'm looking at at least 75-100 more HP and at least that much more torque with this stroker motor. I know that I'll never hook on the street (which is no big deal) but at the track I plan on running some 30x10.5's slicks. I've seen alot of torque tamed by a 10.5" slick. I just thought that if it was possible to move the engine back to the rear holes I'd do it.

PS. I love the look of the M/T DR, do you know if they make them in 17" diameter?

[FirstGen]

I think you will find that you will never dead hook on the street with that much weight/power. I'm talking about a controlled launch. Heat them for a sec and roll out to get moving and punch it. You shouldn't have any problems. All depends on your gear/tire/powerband combo. Maybe you had a poor spring/shock setup in your Chevelle? Anyway, recent tests showed that the new M/T DRs were yeilding better 60's than full slicks at the track. These cars are doing 8's in the quarter too.

[FirstGen]

Yes they make them in a 17" but you can really forget about traction then...

[Yukon Jack]

What an awesome looking Chevelle!

As for moving the motor back - you would probably be looking at similar firewall modifications that I had to make on my 69 K20, not something I would do again if I didn't have too.

[Slammed67]

I used to have a 402BB in my '67 and it required the use of a small sledge hammer to get the valve cover/HEI distributor clearance. With the engine installed, the mods were hardly noticable. In m opinion, V8's mounted close to the firewall look much better than they do in the stock poition. It all depends on if you want to alter the firewall. I doubt you'd notice any gains in traction, but couldn't hurt. I currently have my 350 located in the rear position.

[Purs]

Thanks Yukon Jack. I really loved that car. It's in Florida now.

The rear susp. setup on the 'velle was 12 bolt, aftermarket springs, SSM lowers, Edelbrock adjustable uppers, and an air bag on the passenger side. The BFG DR's hooked really good on a well prepped track, just not on the street. The weight transfer was excellent and I'm quite sure I would've gotten some daylight under the fronts if I had been running some skinnies instead of the those 255/60's in the pic.

Thanks for the input everyone, keep it coming. Right now it sounds like there is not enough to be gained vs. the hassle on setting it in the rear position.

hey FirstGen, those numbers on your LS1 are impressive. Is it a pump gas n/a motor?

[FirstGen]

w/ 125 shot. Numbers are to the wheels on a chassis dyno with slicks (uaually eat about 15 rwhp).

Could also have been many many many other factors, tire pressure, humidity, air temp, etc.

I guess we have a different view as to what good traction is. If you think you would have seen daylight with some skinnies, that's pretty freakin awesome traction!!! In the 1.5X-1.6X 60' range...

[Purs]

nitrous or not, those are nice rear wheel numbers.

[FirstGen]

thanks!