The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-09-2005, 01:06 AM   #1
Ackattack
Senior Member
 
Ackattack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Valley Center KS
Posts: 3,525
A-arms

I have my front suspension all torn apart and I'm in the process of cleaning/sandblasting them before I powder coat them. The question is, how do I get the shafts out of the a-arms? Do you just unscrew the caps? I've tried this, and tried this, and these caps won't budge.

Any suggestions/techniques to get these out?

Thanks
Ackattack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2005, 01:21 AM   #2
rustyold72
Registered User
 
rustyold72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Ark City KS
Posts: 505
Well those caps are torqued on there, I've heard use a torch to heat them up, long breaker bar, big impact wrench.
I'll be following this thread, as I'm about to be in the same situation, and want to see what everyone else comes up with
__________________
71 Chevy C10 "The Rust Bucket"
72 Chevy C10 apart in the garage
02 WS6 T/A Fast Black and bad@$$
93 Nissan Pathfinder "Emily" Totaled RIP girl
05 Jeep Grand Cherokee-HEMI powered
87 Iroc Z28 305 TPI auto (crying out for an LS1 swap)
rustyold72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2005, 01:42 AM   #3
powell72
Senior Member
 
powell72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Loveland Co.
Posts: 3,098
rustyold72 is correct, thats probably one of the easiest ways I've found.
__________________
Chris
74 Custom Deluxe SWB 350/350/3.73’s
99 2wd Silverado RCSB 5.3/4L60/3.90’s

http://www.classictrucks.com/feature...short_bed.html
powell72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2005, 08:18 AM   #4
Tynee
I miss this truck.
 
Tynee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Lexington, KY U.S.A.
Posts: 2,863
Recently replaced those bushings myself. Big socket+breaker bar+cheater pipe+my fat 360lb butt+3 bloody knuckles=finally broke loose. Never did figure a way to get those lower ball joints out, though.

edit: Oh yeah, forgot the penetrating oil in above equation
__________________
'07 GMC Acadia SLT. Sweet ride.

'08 Crew Cab Z-71 short bed. Really like this truck A LOT.

Last edited by Tynee; 02-09-2005 at 09:31 AM.
Tynee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2005, 09:04 AM   #5
mac
Active Member
 
mac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 166
Yep -- they're torqued , not to mention rusted as hell in there. I put mine in a BIG vise and shot them with some penetrating oil and heat on and off for a day. Once the oil worked its way in then the socket and breaker bar technique worked. My caps were so bad they needed to be replaced and cost @ $10 each from GM parts. One had been X-threaded too but fortunately the A-arm wasn't wrecked.
mac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2005, 10:42 AM   #6
bigcdawg99
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 67
I had the same problem. I'm inpatient and didn't want to use an entire Saturday trying to take of the damn ball joints and studds. Took all 4 a-arms to a local garage. They charged me 20 bucks and had them done in about 45 minutes. Then I rented a ball joint press from Autozone (free with deposit). Done deal. I figure why fight little stuff like that. The garage has the tools and they've probably done it many times. My .02
__________________
71 GMC Shortbed Fleetside (under construction)

"I like guns. You got a gun, you don't have to work out."

Chris Rock
bigcdawg99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2005, 11:09 AM   #7
Ackattack
Senior Member
 
Ackattack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Valley Center KS
Posts: 3,525
Looks like I'll just have to use some muscle and get them out.

The upper ball joint was easy to get out (since I replaced it a few years ago when I installed the drop spindles) The lower one came out with a help from my little 5 lb friend
Ackattack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2005, 11:16 AM   #8
Joe67
67 is sold
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,738
I replaced my caps with the front end rebuild kit from PST
__________________
Joe - Formerly 67c10step
-------------------------------
1967 Chevy Stepside - ECE 4/6, fuelcell, 5lug - SOLD

gr8lakes - My ebay auctions

Click here to order forum apparel :: Click here to become a subscribing member
Joe67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2005, 11:26 AM   #9
dallas71
Registered User
 
dallas71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Corinth,TX
Posts: 444
Tynee,

2 options on removing lower ball joints....

1 press them out with a tool rented from Autozone or 2 Angle the protuding piece of the ball joint towards the engine compartment and hit the edge of the balljoint with a BFH and pop it will come right out...

If the problem is getting the ball joint out of the spindle, there is no easy way...If they have been replaced before loosen the nut and hit the lower spindle on the bottom and "pop" the ball joint shoul break loose, if not the fun begins!!! I had to beat mine out (once removed from the upper ball joint) with a BFH and a grinding wheel NOT FUN!!!! Good Luck....
dallas71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2005, 08:27 PM   #10
mac
Active Member
 
mac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 166
The way I split the joint from the spindle was an air hammer on the nut. Thread the nut on far enough that the end of the ball joint and nut are even and let the air do the work. The lower ball pressed out of the arm and back in at the local 4wd shop both sides $30. I put my lowered spindles back on the new ball joints with a small swipe of anti-seize. I've had them on and off a couple of times as I installed lowered springs and then bags and they come apart with a plastic mallet and one whack.
mac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2005, 09:01 PM   #11
powell72
Senior Member
 
powell72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Loveland Co.
Posts: 3,098
Sometimes I forget how spoiled I am being a mechanic and having a fully stocked hobby shop after hours to work in!
__________________
Chris
74 Custom Deluxe SWB 350/350/3.73’s
99 2wd Silverado RCSB 5.3/4L60/3.90’s

http://www.classictrucks.com/feature...short_bed.html
powell72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2005, 10:13 PM   #12
67chevemall
Registered User
 
67chevemall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NB
Posts: 3,367
Was going to keep all the parts from my front end as they are all new on my parts truck, BUT man it seems like alot fn work. Big tools, torches, BFH's....... oh man makes
me tired thinking about it.
__________________
1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside
1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold
1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD
67chevemall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2005, 06:54 PM   #13
Ackattack
Senior Member
 
Ackattack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Valley Center KS
Posts: 3,525
well I finally got them off.

I had to go out and buy a 15" crescent wrench to get it done along with my 5 lb hammer, but I got 'er done
Ackattack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2005, 09:08 PM   #14
Palf70Step
State of Confusion!

 
Palf70Step's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 46,997
Congrats. Some of the chores on these toys/vehicvles of ours can be a REAL PAIN.
__________________
Bill
1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside
2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD

Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC)

Bill's Gallery
Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift.
Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!
Palf70Step is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2005, 09:12 PM   #15
XXL
Señor Member
 
XXL's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ackattack
well I finally got them off.

I had to go out and buy a 15" crescent wrench to get it done along with my 5 lb hammer, but I got 'er done
My dad (the SOB) taught me to always use the right tool for the job...



XXL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2005, 09:17 PM   #16
MOTHERTRUCKERS
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: BRADENTON FLA
Posts: 3,269
If you think disassembly is tough, if the powdercoater screws up reassembly will take days.
__________________
Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.
MOTHERTRUCKERS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2005, 11:25 PM   #17
COBALT
Senior Member
 
COBALT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
I had a 3/4" breaker bar, and an over-sized socket for both sizes. I put the a-arm in a vice without tightening it (just to hold it in place), shot the joint with enough kroil to loosen the Titanic at the bottom of the Atlantic, and pulled with all of my might. Three hernias later It would come loose. I did all eight like that.

Yuck. Make sure you torque down the new ones properly.
__________________
'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual
'99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe
Seattle, WA.
COBALT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 12:01 AM   #18
roj2323
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 985
i don't know why everyone is having problems but mine came right off with an impact. the only difference may be that i used a comercial grade impact and i made sure the compresser was full. now as far as the ball joints are conserned i used a 20 ton press and a socket that was bigger than the ball joint to properly support the a-arm while i pressed it out. the first one came out with the case and the second just pushed the joint though the end of the case. i used another socket that was the same size as the case to push that one out. all in all it took me less than 30 miniutes to completely strip both lower a arms.


hope this helps,
ondrew

p.s. if your a local i would be happy to help you strip your lower a arms. just ask.
roj2323 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2005, 01:37 PM   #19
COBALT
Senior Member
 
COBALT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
It shouldn't be too hard to understand why some of us have problems with this type of thing. We don't have tools like that.

My workshop is attached to my dad's barn on a 20 acre farm, and I'm using a lot of the tools my grandfather used to work on cars and lawn mowers in the 50's after WWII. I'm working with old farmer's tools. The only specialty tools I have are the ones I bring with me from my house in Seattle an hour north of my dad's place.

So...I have to use the ole' brain to figure out how I'm going to break loose 1 1/8" bushings that are 35 years old and never been replaced...

It means a lot of busted knuckles, penetrating oils, and some leverage. With an impact wrench I could have saved a lot of time, but I would first have to rewire my dad's shop to even get the power for the compressor. See what I mean?
__________________
'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual
'99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe
Seattle, WA.
COBALT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2005, 05:55 PM   #20
ddsmith
Glowing since 1978
 
ddsmith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Lusby,MD,USA
Posts: 532
That's what friends with tools are for. Everyone has friends that have that piece of equipment they don't own. I frequently help friends out or let them borrow my equipment. The good thing is that I know the folks I lend my equipment will treat it right and if something goes wrong with it while they have it. They'll get it fixed. A visit with a little beer usually can take care of any issues. I did the cross shafts at home on a 66 C30. They are torqued even more than the half tons. The ball joints went to a shop.
__________________
66 Chevy C30 Stakebody Dump, PS,PB, 327cu in
71 Corvette Coupe 454 4 speed
69 Chevy C20 Custom Camper
ddsmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2005, 07:04 PM   #21
COBALT
Senior Member
 
COBALT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
That's you. Most of my friends' eyes start to glaze over when I tell them I just finished replacing my points on my distributor, or had to reseal my rear-end differential.

When I told one friend of mine that I was rebuilding the front-end suspension he thought I was crazy - told me I should take it to a shop and "have them do it". Sounds like I might have the wrong friends.

__________________
'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual
'99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe
Seattle, WA.
COBALT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:56 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com