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Old 02-11-2005, 11:46 AM   #1
redz 1970 K5
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Question Ok guys, Dagburn steering arm removal...

I have only done this once before on my 82, and it was a PAIN- I think it took me about 6 hours just to get the arm off. I have a Chilton manual and factory service manual for the 71, and they give NO help to remove the factory steering arm (part that attaches to the driver side knuckle)

Anyone who has lifted their truck know what I am talking about.

It's those dang conical locking nuts... I would sure like to hear how you guys coerced your steering arms off. I can't get any type of puller down there either.

It will be soaking in liquid wrench all day, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 02-11-2005, 12:05 PM   #2
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BFH. There are some numbers stamped on the arm on the opposite side of where the studs/washers are, pound on those numbers and it will start to loosen up right away. You might try loosening the bolts 1/2 way and driving around the block too. Good luck
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Old 02-11-2005, 01:15 PM   #3
88Jimmy4x4
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If its a true CA truck it shouldnt be too bad. Spray some lubricant and let soak then like cochino stated, beat down on it, not up...this should free up the conical washers.
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Old 02-11-2005, 01:47 PM   #4
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I have similar conical washers/nuts on my closed knuckle, and i had a friend beating the side with a hammer, while I wiggled it up and down (with the help of a pry bar & 2 screw drivers). Didn't ever put a lot of force on anything, but kept constant pressure pushing up while he hammered...

Good luck
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Old 02-11-2005, 01:48 PM   #5
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budweis posted some good pics of where to strike. I had to heat mine up w/ a propane torch and use a BFH to get mine off.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 02-11-2005, 02:02 PM   #6
redz 1970 K5
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Any ideas on where to get new conical washers? I am striking out on sourcing some new ones.

Thanks for the good pointers.
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Old 02-11-2005, 08:34 PM   #7
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www.shakerbuilt.com sells them. Your new steering arm should have come with them. But then again it could have used.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 02-12-2005, 10:37 AM   #8
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The one I pulled from my 70 K5 came right off, the one I pulled of the 78 K20 that is going in the K5 was really stuck. Heat didn't help and penetrant didn't help either. I ended up having to get a large sledge hammer as the BFH wasn't enough. Bent the heck out of the studs and they are rather expensive.
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Old 02-12-2005, 10:39 AM   #9
redz 1970 K5
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d'oh! Don't want to do that... Probably cheaper just to find a used spindle then replace those studs,eh?
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Old 02-14-2005, 01:09 PM   #10
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Just did mine last weekend. 25-year-old Michigan truck. Took about an hour with an oxy/acetylene torch and a sledge.

Once you get the washers broken free, you can wiggle them around with a pair of vise-grips and pull them out.

Learn from my mistakes: leave the nuts at the top of the studs. If you miss the arm with the BFH and whack the studs, it will protect the threads.
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Old 02-15-2005, 12:40 PM   #11
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I just soaked it with Aero-Kroil and beat it with a big ball peen. I had to beat on it for a good 10 Minutes. I think a sledge is to big. A good 48 oz ball peen is large enough to break it loose but not bend the studs. If you have replacement cone washers you can try turning them with a punch or cold chisel, there is a slot in them if you can catch the edge sometimes they will come out.
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Old 02-15-2005, 01:27 PM   #12
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Hey, local labor, now that's what I am talking about! Say, what are you doing this weekend?

I just go out for about 5 minutes a day, wail on the arm with a sledge, spray with more liquid wrench and walk away. Good thing I am not in a rush, eh? I am not built to handle the frustration of constantly attacking a non moving object; I have to pace myself just so I can enjoy the work and not resent it.
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Old 02-17-2005, 12:26 PM   #13
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Still don't have the arm off... About 15 minutes a day trying. Heat, hammering to hell and nothing... 2 more options- Gonna get a BIG sledge tonight and go for it once more; if not, I figure it's time to do ball joints (was hoping to wait, but since they are 34 years old, what the heck?), so I will just pop the spindles off and wrangle it off from the shop vice.
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Old 02-17-2005, 01:40 PM   #14
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heat, smack, wiggle the conical washers out (spin them around the stud with a screwdriver and hammer) whack again. Be patient, and good luck with it in a vise it will only make it harder.

Next person to install a lift should do a write up on this and have a mod "stickie" it.
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Old 02-17-2005, 02:05 PM   #15
redz 1970 K5
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Boy I wish I could get those conical washers to move...

I know it will come off, and there will be celebration. This is starting to hold my whole project up.
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Old 02-17-2005, 07:08 PM   #16
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sounds like you've gotten plenty of good advice but i'll put in my 2 cents about my experience with these. i wedged a 6' prybar under mine and gave steady pressure up while my cousin banged on the top of the arm with a big hammer. we had it off in about 10 minutes... good luck.
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Old 02-17-2005, 08:10 PM   #17
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Guys, funny story-

So, I am really beating those conical washers up pretty good. So, I thought I should go ahead and order more. Went to the local Chevy Stealer- Took forever to research, finally got a part #, and not a single one in San Diego. Stealer wanted $15.55 a WASHER!

Found a small operation in Auburn, CA that sold me the genuine GM parts for $3/piece!!! So, including shipping I am getting all three for the cost of one from the dealer, and he has them in stock.

He doesn't have a whole lot of inventory, but he has what counts!

http://www.partsmikeparts.com/index.htm
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:32 PM   #18
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parts mike is the way to go!
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 02-18-2005, 02:09 PM   #19
redz 1970 K5
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Ok, I'm done now... Not for the better though. Now, my neighbor and I are both gearheads and have spent countless hours in the garage. After a marathon attempt last night, we still came up short-

I am talking 15lb 3' sledge, 2 built 250lb dudes, MAPP torch, air chisel, 4' prybar, cutting discs, etc. 2 hours- thing did not BUDGE. Thing was smoldering it was so hot. Totally f'd up the upper ball joint due to the heat, no biggie- gotta replace anyways.

Gonna pull the hub assy off, get the backing plate off and literally cut 1/2 of the steering arm off. Gonna have to do new studs, but ah well, I am done playing here. What other choice do I have? Guess I could rent an oxy/acetylene torch too...
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:08 PM   #20
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Update--- pretty funny... or sad

Took off the entire knuckle with the steering arm still attached to a good machine shop. Said they could NOT get the arm off- they had to cut the arm off, and are going to have to replace the studs.

So it wasn't just me at least!
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:50 PM   #21
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That sucks, go to partsmike to get some new studs if the shop does not have them. Don't use bolts! I thought mine was bad, heating it up with a propane torch and hitting it with a hammer did it after about 30 minutes.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:58 PM   #22
redz 1970 K5
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Already have partsmikeparts studs, conical washers and locknuts! Thanks!

Mike was a nice guy to work with!
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:28 PM   #23
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Conical washer removal

When I put the lift kit on my K10 I was also amazed by the stubborness of the conical washer. I paid a mechanic $10 to change my arm and he did it in less than 10 min. He took a deep socket that was larger than the diameter of the washer and put it on top of the arm. It took just one or two hits with a BFH for the washer to just pop up out of the arm. I guess this is kind of like using two hammers to remove a steering wheel. Place one on the loosened nut in the center and strike it with the other. The "shock" makes the part come loose. I haven't had a need to try this again but somebody please give it a shot and let us know if it works for you.
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:51 PM   #24
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Tried it all.....ended up cutting the d@mn thing off. After 6 hours I was fairly ticked off at it Had a new one anyway but still hated to destroy a perfectly good part. One of the boardmembers in CA sent me a couple conical washers free of charge. Great people on here!
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:02 PM   #25
redz 1970 K5
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Moral of the story... If anyone is considering installing a steering arm, JUST DO A DROP DRAG LINK! A drop drag link runs for about $150 shipped.

In the end, I had to pay a machine shop $90 to remove the arm and replace all 3 studs, The new steering arm hardware (studs, washers, nuts) cost me $30, the drag link ends were about $50 and the sleeve was about $12. Oh, and the machine shop guys were in utter disbelief about how hard it was to get off. MACHINE SHOP GUYS!

So, I ending up being out $182, and on top of that hours of frustration and angst, busted knuckles and dirty.

If you ever hear anyone wanting to do a steering arm, just fwd them to this link, and from one friend to another stop the madness. If it's been on there for 34+ years, chances are it's not coming off without an epic fight.

DRAG LINK DRAG LINK DRAG LINK!!! I can't stress this enough.
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