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79gmcc15 · 02-17-2005, 03:05 AM

ok I can't exactly do it right now but I am going to have to do something sometime very soon....here's my dilemma. My 79 GMC 1/2 ton 350/350 has some problems and its geting to the point where either get a "parts" truck and take a better running motor/tranny from that or buy a beater car and save up to fix the truck up right or do a patch up till I can get the money to get it done right.. here's my known problems. the number 3 and 5 cylinder leaks oil so much that number 3 fouls up in about 2-3 weeks. had to get non-foulers to keep from replacing or cleaning them up to get a couple days out of it. I hear a ticking going in the motor I suspect that its the cam because on the passenger side I had a loose rocker and when me and my dad tried to tighten it. the stud stripped so I had to do some "back yard work" to get it working. even after we tightened it down to where it wasn't tapping it still clicked so we thought it was other valves. so long story short we over tightened them and most likely rounded some lobes. and the ticking noise is intermittent but almost always happen at a cold start or harder acceleration or going up hill. I go through about a 1/2 qt of 20/50 oil a week. I don't see burning oil and it doesen't leak that I know of. and I was trying to have it run a little better I got in contact with a guy who sold me a Q-jet for $40 and it is trash. the throttle bushings are gone the accelerator bump isn't working and in the excitement of putting on the "new carb" I broke the gasket to my old carb "holley 4360 450cfm". but even that carb wasn't working right. so with the qjet I have I often can't get the thing to idle lower than well over 1000 rpm *guessing, no tach* and when I shift into drive, it jolts so hard I swear my rear end is just going to rip out. and ever since I got the carb my trans has been making a whirling noise more often. oh and to top that off my brakes are squealing more often.

I look in the ads around here and it's tempting when you see "strong running truck with 350 for $500" especially considering I payed $1000 for it 17 months ago. the major problems is that my family needs my truck to get my mom to work so it can't be down for a long time. I am 19 and out looking for another job"got fired, seasonal job" so that's why I can't do anything right now. this truck is my first car/truck ever. and I am quite partial to it. I know this is alot but I am asking you all for some suggestions or "if you were me" type of help. I don't know, you all know how frustrating it can be. thank you all for your advice/help for everything.

Russell · 02-17-2005, 03:16 AM

If you discover that your cam is shot, I've got a stock spec cam and lifters up here I could sell ya dirt cheap. I've also got a carb that was originally on a 305, the kickdown and such worked on it, and it got pretty good milage too, I ran it for several months, then pulled the engine a couple months ago. I need it to beak my engine in, then I am putting EFI on, and won't need it anymore. I had the engine that the carb was on idling at 550 rpm in drive, and about 650 rpm in park, about 1200 at high idle (kickdown)

As far as the burning oil goes, that could be fixed with some new rings / main / lower rod bearings, and some valve stem seals. None of which are too terribly expensive. I've also heard (in a post here on the forum) that if you put some ajax into the cylinders with poor compression, it will do a sort of mini cylinder hone, and the rings will re-seat. But on the otherhand, it could possibly cause some major damage too... Who knows. My Chevy burns about the same amount of oil as your truck does. The engine runs real strong, just burns about a quart of oil every two weeks.

I know what you mean about not wanting to sell that truck, I never want to have to sell my GMC. I did what you are considering, and bought a beater to drive around while I restored my baby. Its definitely not cheap to do, but the end product is worth it as far as I am concerned

Just hang in there, and ask lots of questions, you'll get her where you want her eventually

79gmcc15 · 02-17-2005, 04:11 AM

Thank you very much. at this point I much rather just put a new cam in because that cam has to have something wrong with it. I mean it is 26 years old so it would probly be worth my while to just put a "new" one in. how do you put the lifters in? Ive always seen it done *tv* with the intake taken off. is there another way? at this point I will consider anything and right now if I had the money I would take that cam from you right now. if you could let me know how much your thinking for the cam and so I can get an idea. I am sure the oil problem is the least of my problems. my dad is worryed about the motor sucking a valve because of that one rocker stud. I had to cut it down to new thread and the nut is hardly on. so yeah if you can get me some prices for the cam/carb I would appreciate it. Ive been thinking about buying something like this http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...uctModelId=380 or http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...uctModelId=379 and just replace it as I go. but the major problem is that I dont have alot of tools or the place to take down a motor and pistons ect so it would have to be done by someone who knows what there doing. but the cam I might be able to do. thanks for your quick reply.....matt

Slonaker · 02-17-2005, 12:34 PM

I used this guide when I did my cam and lifters:

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/cam.htm

Good luck,

Slonaker

badone07 · 02-17-2005, 01:54 PM

Honestly, it looks like you will be throwing away money trying to patch up that motor up. It's just plain ol' tired. Since money would be a problem for a correct & total rebuild, I would look around locally for another motor. Get a small block out of another running vehicle. Doesn't have to necessarily be another 350 either, since transportation is the main objective. 305's can be had for cheap and plenty of them around. You could always rebuild the original 350 as time, knowledge and money permits.

beaterC10 · 02-17-2005, 04:50 PM

If you are desparate for transportation, I wouldn't look at doing an engine swap. If the engine is tired it's a good bet the rest of the drivetrain is tired as well. Doing an engine swap will probably bring a lot of other stuff to light that is worn out.

I would look for a beater to drive and get back to the truck when finances and time permit.

79gmcc15 · 02-17-2005, 11:50 PM

a little update I got the gasket for my old carb. and the trucks runing a ton better. it has a little missfireing at idle but that could be because I couldent one of the bolts on the carb all the way down. will fix that this weekend. how can you tell if the ticking is a valve or piston slap, or something else? is it posable to explain what part would be makeing if it was going out? I know its hard to describe sound but Ive always wondered. just for future reference.... matt

Russell · 02-18-2005, 02:16 AM

Ever think about it maybe being an exhaust leak? They can sound exactly like a ticking lifter. They will get faster with RPMs, and louder too. Does the truck crackle and pop when you let off after revving it, if it does, it could very likely be an exhaust leak. When you let off the gas after revving it up, the pipes have lower pressure than outside and suck fresh air in through the leak, if it is close enough to the manifolds / headers, and they are still hot enough, the air will provide enough oxygen to ignite the unburnt fuel in the exhaust, making that popping noise.

And as far as the cam and lifters go, how does 75 bucks US shipped sound? Thats about 25 bucks for shipping, and 50 for the cam and lifters. They've got very few miles on them, the engine I pulled them from still had crosshatching on the cylinder walls

Only reason why I pulled the cam and lifters out is becuase I put an XE262 Comp Cam in instead for a little bit more power

They have only been out of the engine for maybe 3 weeks

79gmcc15 · 02-18-2005, 03:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell

Ever think about it maybe being an exhaust leak? They can sound exactly like a ticking lifter. They will get faster with RPMs, and louder too. Does the truck crackle and pop when you let off after revving it, if it does, it could very likely be an exhaust leak. When you let off the gas after revving it up, the pipes have lower pressure than outside and suck fresh air in through the leak, if it is close enough to the manifolds / headers, and they are still hot enough, the air will provide enough oxygen to ignite the unburnt fuel in the exhaust, making that popping noise.

now that you mention that, it does do that. Ive never thought about that befor. when it is "cool" and I rev it does rattle/crackle noise.. well I cant get the cam now. I have a job interviue at the end of the month. and with any luck I would get the job and have a paycheck comeing soon. so for now I will say no, but later if you still have it I will mostlikely get it... I asked the guy you probly got the info about the Ajax down the carb about it and he seems pretty confident on it. so I am going to ask a question in the motor fourm to see what the guys say. the idea would be nice for a temperary fix. now sence I got my old carb *430 cfm* it doesent have the same "punch" that I got from the crapy q-jet. I am going to miss that part of the carb lol. thanks for very much for your help and offer.......matt

02-17-2005, 03:05 AM	#1
79gmcc15 Gettin It One Pice At A Time Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: everett, washington Posts: 2,688	need your advise ok I can't exactly do it right now but I am going to have to do something sometime very soon....here's my dilemma. My 79 GMC 1/2 ton 350/350 has some problems and its geting to the point where either get a "parts" truck and take a better running motor/tranny from that or buy a beater car and save up to fix the truck up right or do a patch up till I can get the money to get it done right.. here's my known problems. the number 3 and 5 cylinder leaks oil so much that number 3 fouls up in about 2-3 weeks. had to get non-foulers to keep from replacing or cleaning them up to get a couple days out of it. I hear a ticking going in the motor I suspect that its the cam because on the passenger side I had a loose rocker and when me and my dad tried to tighten it. the stud stripped so I had to do some "back yard work" to get it working. even after we tightened it down to where it wasn't tapping it still clicked so we thought it was other valves. so long story short we over tightened them and most likely rounded some lobes. and the ticking noise is intermittent but almost always happen at a cold start or harder acceleration or going up hill. I go through about a 1/2 qt of 20/50 oil a week. I don't see burning oil and it doesen't leak that I know of. and I was trying to have it run a little better I got in contact with a guy who sold me a Q-jet for $40 and it is trash. the throttle bushings are gone the accelerator bump isn't working and in the excitement of putting on the "new carb" I broke the gasket to my old carb "holley 4360 450cfm". but even that carb wasn't working right. so with the qjet I have I often can't get the thing to idle lower than well over 1000 rpm guessing, no tach and when I shift into drive, it jolts so hard I swear my rear end is just going to rip out. and ever since I got the carb my trans has been making a whirling noise more often. oh and to top that off my brakes are squealing more often. I look in the ads around here and it's tempting when you see "strong running truck with 350 for $500" especially considering I payed $1000 for it 17 months ago. the major problems is that my family needs my truck to get my mom to work so it can't be down for a long time. I am 19 and out looking for another job"got fired, seasonal job" so that's why I can't do anything right now. this truck is my first car/truck ever. and I am quite partial to it. I know this is alot but I am asking you all for some suggestions or "if you were me" type of help. I don't know, you all know how frustrating it can be. thank you all for your advice/help for everything. __________________ RIP ELJAY Work In Progress 1979 GMC C1500 Trailering Special. Getting the truck done, one piece at a time. “You can tell a lot about a fellow’s character by his way of eating jellybeans.”Ronald Reagan “I don’t know the key to success but I know the key to failure is trying to please everybody.” Bill Cosby Last edited by 79gmcc15; 02-17-2005 at 03:12 AM.

02-17-2005, 03:16 AM	#2
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	If you discover that your cam is shot, I've got a stock spec cam and lifters up here I could sell ya dirt cheap. I've also got a carb that was originally on a 305, the kickdown and such worked on it, and it got pretty good milage too, I ran it for several months, then pulled the engine a couple months ago. I need it to beak my engine in, then I am putting EFI on, and won't need it anymore. I had the engine that the carb was on idling at 550 rpm in drive, and about 650 rpm in park, about 1200 at high idle (kickdown) As far as the burning oil goes, that could be fixed with some new rings / main / lower rod bearings, and some valve stem seals. None of which are too terribly expensive. I've also heard (in a post here on the forum) that if you put some ajax into the cylinders with poor compression, it will do a sort of mini cylinder hone, and the rings will re-seat. But on the otherhand, it could possibly cause some major damage too... Who knows. My Chevy burns about the same amount of oil as your truck does. The engine runs real strong, just burns about a quart of oil every two weeks. I know what you mean about not wanting to sell that truck, I never want to have to sell my GMC. I did what you are considering, and bought a beater to drive around while I restored my baby. Its definitely not cheap to do, but the end product is worth it as far as I am concerned Just hang in there, and ask lots of questions, you'll get her where you want her eventually __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

02-17-2005, 04:11 AM	#3
79gmcc15 Gettin It One Pice At A Time Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: everett, washington Posts: 2,688	Thank you very much. at this point I much rather just put a new cam in because that cam has to have something wrong with it. I mean it is 26 years old so it would probly be worth my while to just put a "new" one in. how do you put the lifters in? Ive always seen it done tv with the intake taken off. is there another way? at this point I will consider anything and right now if I had the money I would take that cam from you right now. if you could let me know how much your thinking for the cam and so I can get an idea. I am sure the oil problem is the least of my problems. my dad is worryed about the motor sucking a valve because of that one rocker stud. I had to cut it down to new thread and the nut is hardly on. so yeah if you can get me some prices for the cam/carb I would appreciate it. Ive been thinking about buying something like this http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...uctModelId=380 or http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...uctModelId=379 and just replace it as I go. but the major problem is that I dont have alot of tools or the place to take down a motor and pistons ect so it would have to be done by someone who knows what there doing. but the cam I might be able to do. thanks for your quick reply.....matt __________________ RIP ELJAY Work In Progress 1979 GMC C1500 Trailering Special. Getting the truck done, one piece at a time. “You can tell a lot about a fellow’s character by his way of eating jellybeans.”Ronald Reagan “I don’t know the key to success but I know the key to failure is trying to please everybody.” Bill Cosby

02-17-2005, 12:34 PM	#4
Slonaker Insert Witty Text Here Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 3,415	I used this guide when I did my cam and lifters: http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/cam.htm Good luck, Slonaker __________________ '86 Chevy C10 (Sold 04/19/13 ) Stock '01 Silverado

02-17-2005, 01:54 PM	#5
badone07 Project 2 Resume Join Date: May 2004 Location: Jim Thorpe, PA Posts: 884	Honestly, it looks like you will be throwing away money trying to patch up that motor up. It's just plain ol' tired. Since money would be a problem for a correct & total rebuild, I would look around locally for another motor. Get a small block out of another running vehicle. Doesn't have to necessarily be another 350 either, since transportation is the main objective. 305's can be had for cheap and plenty of them around. You could always rebuild the original 350 as time, knowledge and money permits. __________________ John 1984 C30 Chevy Crew Cab Dually 1998 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 2004 Chevy Trailblazer 4x4 (wife's) 1970 Mustang FB fully tubed (getting 521 BBF & powerglide) 1978 Nova 2dr (going BBCaddy & S.P. th400) 1984 Monte SS (circle track car)

02-17-2005, 04:50 PM	#6
beaterC10 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 1,277	If you are desparate for transportation, I wouldn't look at doing an engine swap. If the engine is tired it's a good bet the rest of the drivetrain is tired as well. Doing an engine swap will probably bring a lot of other stuff to light that is worn out. I would look for a beater to drive and get back to the truck when finances and time permit.

02-17-2005, 11:50 PM	#7
79gmcc15 Gettin It One Pice At A Time Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: everett, washington Posts: 2,688	a little update I got the gasket for my old carb. and the trucks runing a ton better. it has a little missfireing at idle but that could be because I couldent one of the bolts on the carb all the way down. will fix that this weekend. how can you tell if the ticking is a valve or piston slap, or something else? is it posable to explain what part would be makeing if it was going out? I know its hard to describe sound but Ive always wondered. just for future reference.... matt __________________ RIP ELJAY Work In Progress 1979 GMC C1500 Trailering Special. Getting the truck done, one piece at a time. “You can tell a lot about a fellow’s character by his way of eating jellybeans.”Ronald Reagan “I don’t know the key to success but I know the key to failure is trying to please everybody.” Bill Cosby

02-18-2005, 02:16 AM	#8
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Ever think about it maybe being an exhaust leak? They can sound exactly like a ticking lifter. They will get faster with RPMs, and louder too. Does the truck crackle and pop when you let off after revving it, if it does, it could very likely be an exhaust leak. When you let off the gas after revving it up, the pipes have lower pressure than outside and suck fresh air in through the leak, if it is close enough to the manifolds / headers, and they are still hot enough, the air will provide enough oxygen to ignite the unburnt fuel in the exhaust, making that popping noise. And as far as the cam and lifters go, how does 75 bucks US shipped sound? Thats about 25 bucks for shipping, and 50 for the cam and lifters. They've got very few miles on them, the engine I pulled them from still had crosshatching on the cylinder walls Only reason why I pulled the cam and lifters out is becuase I put an XE262 Comp Cam in instead for a little bit more power They have only been out of the engine for maybe 3 weeks __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)



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