Tie rod help?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

59Apache4WD · 02-19-2005, 01:17 PM

The '59 fleetside is scary on the freeway,aiming it down the road is a process of herding rather than steering.......so i got new tie rod ends. Its 4WD with running gear out of a '74 K10 P/U(Dana 44) . I got all the bits from my local Napa store but they did not have any recommendations for the torque of the castle nuts on the tie rods.Also it seems as if I could remove both the "center link" assembly and the "drag link" assembly (both consist of two tie rods and a adjusting sleeve) and measure center to center on the studs, set up the new ones the same and reinstall and it would be more accurate than counting the number of turns into the sleeves(as someone suggested) as the new parts are not of the same manufacturer.If anyone out there has any thoughts, suggestions,specs, or ideas that would be great!!
Thanks - Jeff

Mudder · 02-19-2005, 01:32 PM

It would be tomorrow before I could go measure for you. I will say you should lay under the front of your truck and have someone you can trust turn the steering back and forth while u watch and see whats going on. See if the frame is flexing back and forth or if the gearbox is moving. I ended up welding the cross member solid. The rivets seem to come loose over time and the frame will flex when you turn.

LONGHAIR · 02-19-2005, 04:41 PM

That (measurment) may get you close, but assuming your original stuff was worn anyway, that is no guarantee that it is right,....just the same.

Adjusting the toe-in is not too hard though. The simplest way is to measure it with the wheels back on the truck. Take 2 straight edges (4' level or something similar) and lay them parallel to the tires. Raise them a few inches to get them to the sidewalls of the tires (above the rim line). Then measure between the straight edges, in front of and then behind the tire. The measurement should be a bit less in the front. The amount depends on the tire diameter but 1/8" to 1/4" should be good.

The drag link should be fairly close to the original measurement too. The adjustment then just gets the steering wheel straight after that.

Americanrider · 02-20-2005, 04:59 AM

If your looking for a easy way take it to a alignment shop & ask for an opinion. Tell them you want to tighten everything up before you get an alignment. They should give it a look over for free. Just make sure it's a shop that you can trust. If they point out something wrong ask them to show you exactly where the fault is & how to correct. Then you tell them you'll get it fixed before you bring it back for the alignment.

LONGHAIR · 02-20-2005, 07:57 AM

Most places don't like that!
They are in business to make money.....and most of that comes from parts not labor. So they are going to "give" you some of thier labor, just for you to go buy your parts somewhere else.....and put them on yourself?

Alignment on a straight axle 4X4 is either very simple (toe-in adjustment) or VERY complex (expensive)! Because the only way to change camber is with shims behind the spindle.........and if you need to do that, there is something VERY wrong with your axle housing anyway (bent). Caster is changable too...with a shim under the spring, but there is no reason for that to change either.

02-19-2005, 01:17 PM	#1
59Apache4WD Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 12	Tie rod help?? The '59 fleetside is scary on the freeway,aiming it down the road is a process of herding rather than steering.......so i got new tie rod ends. Its 4WD with running gear out of a '74 K10 P/U(Dana 44) . I got all the bits from my local Napa store but they did not have any recommendations for the torque of the castle nuts on the tie rods.Also it seems as if I could remove both the "center link" assembly and the "drag link" assembly (both consist of two tie rods and a adjusting sleeve) and measure center to center on the studs, set up the new ones the same and reinstall and it would be more accurate than counting the number of turns into the sleeves(as someone suggested) as the new parts are not of the same manufacturer.If anyone out there has any thoughts, suggestions,specs, or ideas that would be great!! Thanks - Jeff

02-19-2005, 01:32 PM	#2
Mudder Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: East Central, MO Posts: 11,336	It would be tomorrow before I could go measure for you. I will say you should lay under the front of your truck and have someone you can trust turn the steering back and forth while u watch and see whats going on. See if the frame is flexing back and forth or if the gearbox is moving. I ended up welding the cross member solid. The rivets seem to come loose over time and the frame will flex when you turn.

02-19-2005, 04:41 PM	#3
LONGHAIR just can't cover up my redneck Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 11,414	That (measurment) may get you close, but assuming your original stuff was worn anyway, that is no guarantee that it is right,....just the same. Adjusting the toe-in is not too hard though. The simplest way is to measure it with the wheels back on the truck. Take 2 straight edges (4' level or something similar) and lay them parallel to the tires. Raise them a few inches to get them to the sidewalls of the tires (above the rim line). Then measure between the straight edges, in front of and then behind the tire. The measurement should be a bit less in the front. The amount depends on the tire diameter but 1/8" to 1/4" should be good. The drag link should be fairly close to the original measurement too. The adjustment then just gets the steering wheel straight after that.

02-20-2005, 04:59 AM	#4
Americanrider Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: NW, WA. Posts: 1,421	If your looking for a easy way take it to a alignment shop & ask for an opinion. Tell them you want to tighten everything up before you get an alignment. They should give it a look over for free. Just make sure it's a shop that you can trust. If they point out something wrong ask them to show you exactly where the fault is & how to correct. Then you tell them you'll get it fixed before you bring it back for the alignment.

02-20-2005, 07:57 AM	#5
LONGHAIR just can't cover up my redneck Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 11,414	Most places don't like that! They are in business to make money.....and most of that comes from parts not labor. So they are going to "give" you some of thier labor, just for you to go buy your parts somewhere else.....and put them on yourself? Alignment on a straight axle 4X4 is either very simple (toe-in adjustment) or VERY complex (expensive)! Because the only way to change camber is with shims behind the spindle.........and if you need to do that, there is something VERY wrong with your axle housing anyway (bent). Caster is changable too...with a shim under the spring, but there is no reason for that to change either.



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