What do you think of my bag plans? OK? Suggestions? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

71swb4x4 · 02-23-2005, 12:11 PM

I am going to start ordering my bag set-up this week. Here is what I want to do, let me know if you see weaknesses here.

From Suicide Doors:
8 1/2" 'E' valves
Front plates
2 dual needle gauges and 1 single needle
1/2" air line to everything (1/4 to gauges)

I already have a York engine-driven compressor

I want to go with 4 RS-72 Slam Specialties bags - 1/2 inch single port

I haven't decided on a tank (or tanks) yet, not sure where to put them on my Jimmy.
I haven't decided on my switch set-up either.

I currently have 2 1/2" drop spindles. I also have 2" blocks in the back.

I plan to go with a track bar and shock relocator kit from ECE. I need new shocks as well, and may purchase them through ECE.

Do you think I will need to go with a 'C' notch? I have no problems doing one, I just don't want to do it if I won't need it. The way things look now I am guessing I will have to do a conservative notch.

My goal is to have a truck that rides really nice. A little "show" is OK, but my main concern is driveability and reliability.

**lolife99** · 02-23-2005, 06:07 PM

71swb4x4,... I am wanting to do this to my 2wd blazer also. I need all the info I can get. I would use a c-notch. Keep us posted with pics!

71swb4x4 · 02-23-2005, 07:01 PM

I will share pictures for sure!!
I think I will do the c-notch, it will be easier to do while everything is apart anyway.
My biggest question is where I am going to put the tank, there really isn't much room underneath the Jimmy.

XXL · 02-23-2005, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

8 1/2" 'E' valves
Front plates
2 dual needle gauges and 1 single needle
1/2" air line to everything (1/4 to gauges)
I want to go with 4 RS-72 Slam Specialties bags - 1/2 inch single port

Per your desire re "drivability and reliability" being foremost, this is a bit of overkill. smaller valves and lines will get you a more controllable action. Also, 1/8" is all you need for gauges... you're measuring pressure, not trying to move volumes of air.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

I haven't decided on a tank (or tanks) yet, not sure where to put them on my Jimmy.

Get as much air volume as you can reasonably store... I've got 2 3 gallon tanks on my truck. That seems to work well. I started with a single 2 gallon tank years ago. That was NOT enough air.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

I currently have 2 1/2" drop spindles. I also have 2" blocks in the back.

Figure the truck to be pretty darn low with that setup. You will be on the frame HARD in the back.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

I plan to go with a track bar and shock relocator kit from ECE. I need new shocks as well, and may purchase them through ECE.

Track bar = good. You'll have to come up with a mounting solution for the passenger side. The ECE-supplied solution is NOT. slammed67 and others have mod'd the mounting bracket

. I chose to mod the frame notch to give the ECE mount clearance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

Do you think I will need to go with a 'C' notch? I have no problems doing one, I just don't want to do it if I won't need it. The way things look now I am guessing I will have to do a conservative notch.

Yes, definitely (waiting for TXFirefighter to disagree

Slammed67 · 02-23-2005, 07:27 PM

This is what XXL is referring to regarding the ECE track bar and the CPP style c-notch......

My solution was to relocate the passenger side mounting point of the track bar to the inside of that trailing arm, thus keeping it below the frame.

I also agree that 1/2" line and valves are overkill for what you are trying to accomplish. With 140psi in my tanks (3/8" valves and line) the rear of my truck raises to full height within 1 second.

71swb4x4 · 02-23-2005, 07:48 PM

Thanks a lot guys - great info.
I will change my valves to 3/8 and go with 3/8 line as well.
I will remove the 2" blocks if it's too low. Are the spindles too much as well?
I definitely won't be doing this as an overnight project - sounds like I will have a few things to work out as I start putting this together.

71swb4x4 · 02-23-2005, 07:59 PM

Did you guys purchase a c-notch or did you make your own?
If you purchased it is there anyone you recommend?

Edit - did some searching on the board and found some answers. Looks like some board vendors carry them, and not too tough to make either.

XXL · 02-23-2005, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

Did you guys purchase a c-notch or did you make your own?
If you purchased it is there anyone you recommend?

Purchased from CPP. They're $150 these days. I plan to have some for sale in the near future... complete with clearance modification for the track bar

Stay tuned.

Rollie396 · 02-24-2005, 05:56 AM

You could check out suicidedoors too.They have a good deal on c notches.I'm gonna build my own though,it's simple enough.I'm wondering if you lowering blocks are going to be too much for a c notch?

XXL · 02-24-2005, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rollie396

You could check out suicidedoors too.They have a good deal on c notches.I'm gonna build my own though,it's simple enough.I'm wondering if you lowering blocks are going to be too much for a c notch?

They don't have anything for 67-72. I've been talking with Jason about this... last I heard, I sent him an email at his request, but nothing since then

02-23-2005, 12:11 PM	#1
71swb4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brookings, SD Posts: 10,497	What do you think of my bag plans? OK? Suggestions? I am going to start ordering my bag set-up this week. Here is what I want to do, let me know if you see weaknesses here. From Suicide Doors: 8 1/2" 'E' valves Front plates 2 dual needle gauges and 1 single needle 1/2" air line to everything (1/4 to gauges) I already have a York engine-driven compressor I want to go with 4 RS-72 Slam Specialties bags - 1/2 inch single port I haven't decided on a tank (or tanks) yet, not sure where to put them on my Jimmy. I haven't decided on my switch set-up either. I currently have 2 1/2" drop spindles. I also have 2" blocks in the back. I plan to go with a track bar and shock relocator kit from ECE. I need new shocks as well, and may purchase them through ECE. Do you think I will need to go with a 'C' notch? I have no problems doing one, I just don't want to do it if I won't need it. The way things look now I am guessing I will have to do a conservative notch. My goal is to have a truck that rides really nice. A little "show" is OK, but my main concern is driveability and reliability. __________________ Some people are like slinkies, they aren't good for anything, but you can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs. Last edited by 71swb4x4; 02-23-2005 at 12:16 PM.

02-23-2005, 06:07 PM	#2
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,691	71swb4x4,... I am wanting to do this to my 2wd blazer also. I need all the info I can get. I would use a c-notch. Keep us posted with pics! __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

02-23-2005, 07:01 PM	#3
71swb4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brookings, SD Posts: 10,497	I will share pictures for sure!! I think I will do the c-notch, it will be easier to do while everything is apart anyway. My biggest question is where I am going to put the tank, there really isn't much room underneath the Jimmy. __________________ Some people are like slinkies, they aren't good for anything, but you can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs.

02-23-2005, 07:27 PM	#5
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	This is what XXL is referring to regarding the ECE track bar and the CPP style c-notch...... My solution was to relocate the passenger side mounting point of the track bar to the inside of that trailing arm, thus keeping it below the frame. I also agree that 1/2" line and valves are overkill for what you are trying to accomplish. With 140psi in my tanks (3/8" valves and line) the rear of my truck raises to full height within 1 second. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

02-23-2005, 07:59 PM	#7
71swb4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brookings, SD Posts: 10,497	Did you guys purchase a c-notch or did you make your own? If you purchased it is there anyone you recommend? Edit - did some searching on the board and found some answers. Looks like some board vendors carry them, and not too tough to make either. __________________ Some people are like slinkies, they aren't good for anything, but you can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs. Last edited by 71swb4x4; 02-23-2005 at 08:06 PM.

02-23-2005, 07:48 PM	#6
71swb4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brookings, SD Posts: 10,497	Thanks a lot guys - great info. I will change my valves to 3/8 and go with 3/8 line as well. I will remove the 2" blocks if it's too low. Are the spindles too much as well? I definitely won't be doing this as an overnight project - sounds like I will have a few things to work out as I start putting this together.

02-24-2005, 05:56 AM	#9
Rollie396 someday it will be done! Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Lloydminster,AB. Canada Posts: 1,620	You could check out suicidedoors too.They have a good deal on c notches.I'm gonna build my own though,it's simple enough.I'm wondering if you lowering blocks are going to be too much for a c notch? __________________ '72 C-10 Proud owner of a million new and used pieces that used to be and will once again be(god willing) a testament to the term "they don't build em like that anymore. '80 LWB 2wd beater '67 GMC long fleet (cab donor) '66 long step (parked till it's turn comes around) '65 short step (parts truck that will donate it's bed and possibly frame to the '66) '06 Grand Prix wife's car (she hardly lets me touch it) my pics



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