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krue · 03-01-2005, 01:17 AM

I have two different tops for my blazer. The one that is on it has a lip that is bolted to the bed rail. The spare (given to me by ken betz

) mounts with bolts thru the bed into nuts built into the top. I am guessing the first is single wall and the second is double wall?
Two tops, one rear hatch. Will it work on both tops?
Which top is better (assuming they are in comparable shape)?

saulgoode · 03-01-2005, 01:36 AM

You are right, bolts from top single wall, bolts from bottom double. Both tops being equal I'd rather have a single, they are lighter and have the inside cargo lights, double doesn't. The hatch is the same. Plus the sinle is easier to take off if you have the side panels, you would have to take those off to get to the bolts on a double. But if none of that maters to you, you could run the double and sell the single, they are a little more desirable. Hope this helps.

Saulgoode

Huck · 03-01-2005, 09:14 AM

The double wall has a seam right down the middle which often opens over time. They also tend to warp on the top going from covex /\ to concave\/ which looks kaka.

krue · 03-01-2005, 01:14 PM

Thanks guys.

Trifelynn · 03-01-2005, 01:38 PM

Here is a top question...I appoligize Krue, don't mean to steal your thread, but it goes right along with your thread...

Is it easy/possible to repair tops? I have some cracks/knicks/chunks in my top...
I assume that it is possible, but I suppose I should make sure..

anyone had their top repaired?

I have a single wall, and would like to keep it, if I can fix it..

thanks

Lenny

bouncytruck · 03-01-2005, 03:07 PM

Since the tops are fiberglass, you can repair damage. If you remember Diane (1970Blazin), she had her top repaired by a guy who works in fiberglass. Usually, guys who do boat repairs can make the repairs to the tops.

krue · 03-01-2005, 03:25 PM

That's definitely good to know. Mine may be structurally sound, but they look like poop!

LUV2XCLR8 · 03-01-2005, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by saulgoode

Plus the single is easier to take off if you have the side panels, you would have to take those off to get to the bolts on a double.
Saulgoode

I'm thinking about studding mine for this very reason, still trying to work
out all the details, but if I stud all of the middle bolts and just use the
1's w/ the brackets near the tailgate and the ones on the upper portion
of the windsheild frame will it be fastened secure enough, any opinions.

vtblazer · 03-01-2005, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUV2XCLR8

I'm thinking about studding mine for this very reason, still trying to work
out all the details, but if I stud all of the middle bolts and just use the
1's w/ the brackets near the tailgate and the ones on the upper portion
of the windsheild frame will it be fastened secure enough, any opinions.

That's a good idea but you'd have to be REAL careful taking it on and off.

I think using the bolt hole/mount just behind each door along with the other's you mentioned would be a "minimum".

Huck · 03-01-2005, 05:54 PM

Blazer tubs are far from solid even when like new. The factory manual recommends shimming body mounts to get proper alignment of doors etc. I think you will sacrafice body rigidity when you stud a bunch of the top side mounting bolts and may wind up seeing cracks in the 30 year old fiberglass top. My tendancy is to "do or do not, there is no try"----a little green guy used that line in Star Wars and it kind of works here!hehehehe

LUV2XCLR8 · 03-03-2005, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtblazer

That's a good idea but you'd have to be REAL careful taking it on and off.

I think using the bolt hole/mount just behind each door along with the other's you mentioned would be a "minimum".

I WAS GOING TO USE A SLIGHTLY SMALLER STUD SIZE AND COVER IT WITH
SOME CLEAR TUBING, LIKE FOR A FISHY AQUARIUM AIR THINGY, THEY MAKE
THAT CLEAR TUBING AS THICK AS 1/8" IN THE SIZE NEED, PRETTY SOFT.

03-01-2005, 01:17 AM	#1
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,448	Top questions I have two different tops for my blazer. The one that is on it has a lip that is bolted to the bed rail. The spare (given to me by ken betz ) mounts with bolts thru the bed into nuts built into the top. I am guessing the first is single wall and the second is double wall? Two tops, one rear hatch. Will it work on both tops? Which top is better (assuming they are in comparable shape)? __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

03-01-2005, 01:14 PM	#4
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,448	Thanks guys. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

03-01-2005, 01:38 PM	#5
Trifelynn Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Williston, North Dakota Posts: 469	Here is a top question...I appoligize Krue, don't mean to steal your thread, but it goes right along with your thread... Is it easy/possible to repair tops? I have some cracks/knicks/chunks in my top... I assume that it is possible, but I suppose I should make sure.. anyone had their top repaired? I have a single wall, and would like to keep it, if I can fix it.. thanks Lenny __________________ Always looking for a 2wd blazer

03-01-2005, 03:07 PM	#6
bouncytruck SKINNY TIRES RULE! Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Bothell, WA Posts: 11,038	Since the tops are fiberglass, you can repair damage. If you remember Diane (1970Blazin), she had her top repaired by a guy who works in fiberglass. Usually, guys who do boat repairs can make the repairs to the tops. __________________ bouncytruck 1972 K5 The Hauler 1994 K1500 Suburban The Daily2010 Kia Soul Wife's Ride2014 Fiat 500L

03-01-2005, 03:25 PM	#7
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,448	That's definitely good to know. Mine may be structurally sound, but they look like poop! __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

03-01-2005, 01:36 AM	#2
saulgoode Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Houston Posts: 388	You are right, bolts from top single wall, bolts from bottom double. Both tops being equal I'd rather have a single, they are lighter and have the inside cargo lights, double doesn't. The hatch is the same. Plus the sinle is easier to take off if you have the side panels, you would have to take those off to get to the bolts on a double. But if none of that maters to you, you could run the double and sell the single, they are a little more desirable. Hope this helps. Saulgoode

03-01-2005, 09:14 AM	#3
Huck Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Shelbyville, KY Posts: 3,261	The double wall has a seam right down the middle which often opens over time. They also tend to warp on the top going from covex /\ to concave\/ which looks kaka.

03-01-2005, 05:54 PM	#10
Huck Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Shelbyville, KY Posts: 3,261	Blazer tubs are far from solid even when like new. The factory manual recommends shimming body mounts to get proper alignment of doors etc. I think you will sacrafice body rigidity when you stud a bunch of the top side mounting bolts and may wind up seeing cracks in the 30 year old fiberglass top. My tendancy is to "do or do not, there is no try"----a little green guy used that line in Star Wars and it kind of works here!hehehehe



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