Cab support replacement? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

muddpile · 03-01-2005, 01:44 AM

I looked under my old truck today, and it looks like I need a couple new cab supports. The rear passenger is rusted out really bad, while the front passenger has one small hole in it. The front drivers is rusted out bad, while the rear drivers has one small hole in it. I was thinking of patching the two solid ones and replacing the two that are shot. How hard of a job is cab support replacement? Thanks!

4x4Poet · 03-01-2005, 04:02 AM

Before you start, wire wheel each rocker to verify where the rust ends and the good metal starts and to clean off the spotwelds. Then you'll have a clear idea. Also, with that much rust, you'll need to check the floor & lower A-pillar carefully. It would be a waste to replace the rockers when more extensive work is needed.

Take another look at the front supports. Does the rust go all the way to the body bolt and under the reinforced plate & structural rib? Is so, you have a big job on your hands. If not, you can merely drill out the spot welds to just short of the reinforced floorplate, cut the rocker between the innermost spotweld & reinforced floorplate, unbolt the support from the inner rocker (floor actually) and then tackle the tough part–pry, hammer, chisel out the support foward bolt flange from between the A-pillar and its fender bolt backing plate. Expect to find a rusted out floor between the floor (inner rocker) and the A-pillar. Maybe the lower A-pillar will be toast, too. You can weld in a new support by cutting the inner end a little longer than needed and then split the end enough to bend in all three sides to slip inside what's left of the original rocker. Bolt in, clamp to the floor, then weld.

The rear rockers are much more difficult. I recommend ebfabman.com dvds. Very expensive and very informative. Not well produced, but you learn from him doing with little lecture. IOW, a bodyman's perspective.

**Daubs** · 03-01-2005, 10:16 AM

I'd echo Poet's comments on ebfabman's DVD's. Got them last week...very informative!He knows what he is doing and it shows.

muddpile · 03-02-2005, 01:45 AM

Good to know that his vids are informative! and the cab supports aren't rusted right to pieces all along, just on the ends for about 4", but it is still enough to make me feel unsafe for the moment.

4x4Poet · 03-02-2005, 04:26 AM

If you're holding off on big plans to do a frame off or, at least, full body work, you could clean up the old rockers and weld on the slip covers available. You can even bolt them on by drilling thru the floor. They're ok for a stopgap measure. Just clean every bit of rust off the rockers and use POR15 or a weld thru zinc coating between the two to stave off rust between them. It's also a good idea to use sealant where possible to keep moisture out from between them. But I stick by my earlier recommendation to first make a thorough inspection of the entire underside and uncover floors. Get that truck up on a lift with a drop light to get a real good look.

03-01-2005, 01:44 AM	#1
muddpile Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,371	Cab support replacement? I looked under my old truck today, and it looks like I need a couple new cab supports. The rear passenger is rusted out really bad, while the front passenger has one small hole in it. The front drivers is rusted out bad, while the rear drivers has one small hole in it. I was thinking of patching the two solid ones and replacing the two that are shot. How hard of a job is cab support replacement? Thanks! __________________ 1964 Chevy Short Fleet: Tornado 1972 Chevy C10: Fast Orange Secondaries Wide Open

03-01-2005, 04:02 AM	#2
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	Before you start, wire wheel each rocker to verify where the rust ends and the good metal starts and to clean off the spotwelds. Then you'll have a clear idea. Also, with that much rust, you'll need to check the floor & lower A-pillar carefully. It would be a waste to replace the rockers when more extensive work is needed. Take another look at the front supports. Does the rust go all the way to the body bolt and under the reinforced plate & structural rib? Is so, you have a big job on your hands. If not, you can merely drill out the spot welds to just short of the reinforced floorplate, cut the rocker between the innermost spotweld & reinforced floorplate, unbolt the support from the inner rocker (floor actually) and then tackle the tough part–pry, hammer, chisel out the support foward bolt flange from between the A-pillar and its fender bolt backing plate. Expect to find a rusted out floor between the floor (inner rocker) and the A-pillar. Maybe the lower A-pillar will be toast, too. You can weld in a new support by cutting the inner end a little longer than needed and then split the end enough to bend in all three sides to slip inside what's left of the original rocker. Bolt in, clamp to the floor, then weld. The rear rockers are much more difficult. I recommend ebfabman.com dvds. Very expensive and very informative. Not well produced, but you learn from him doing with little lecture. IOW, a bodyman's perspective. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

03-01-2005, 10:16 AM	#3
Daubs Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Eastern Nebraska Posts: 613	I'd echo Poet's comments on ebfabman's DVD's. Got them last week...very informative!He knows what he is doing and it shows. __________________ '72 Chevy K-20 Crate 350, SM465, 4.10's

03-02-2005, 01:45 AM	#4
muddpile Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,371	Good to know that his vids are informative! and the cab supports aren't rusted right to pieces all along, just on the ends for about 4", but it is still enough to make me feel unsafe for the moment. __________________ 1964 Chevy Short Fleet: Tornado 1972 Chevy C10: Fast Orange Secondaries Wide Open

03-02-2005, 04:26 AM	#5
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	If you're holding off on big plans to do a frame off or, at least, full body work, you could clean up the old rockers and weld on the slip covers available. You can even bolt them on by drilling thru the floor. They're ok for a stopgap measure. Just clean every bit of rust off the rockers and use POR15 or a weld thru zinc coating between the two to stave off rust between them. It's also a good idea to use sealant where possible to keep moisture out from between them. But I stick by my earlier recommendation to first make a thorough inspection of the entire underside and uncover floors. Get that truck up on a lift with a drop light to get a real good look. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.



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