Need "HOW TO" Advice Please! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

*72longbed* · 03-02-2005, 10:56 PM

Well I am working on this 1971 K20 Dana 44 front axle. It has the large manual Spicer locking hubs (one Red, one Blue, HA!) I'm pretty much rebuilding everything except the carrier and ring and pinion. As you guys know, that's a lot with these Dana fronts. So as I get into this thing, I find that everything is contaminated with a stinky (as in SMELLY!) blackish, gritty mess. As if the last owner/operator ran it through some deep sewage hole at the beach with the locking hubs off and it sucked up the mess inside the spindles, axle hubs, and locking hub mechanism.

So total tear down from the axle tubes on out. Along with a good bath in parts solvent, I'm going to replace all of the wheel and spindle bearings, races, seals, U-joints, and related wear items. Here's my question: when I removed the six Allen head screws that hold on the Spicer hubs, I could see that the locking hub mechanisms are also contaminated with this Gunk. I don't want to 'soak' these parts. What is the correct method used to clean out the locking hub mechanism itself?? Do I take apart the 'lock' itself? If so, what position do I turn the dial to to take apart this thing? What is the procedure, step by step, to take a Spicer manual hub apart and clean it out? What special tools might I need? Whats the best solution or solvent to use on the internal parts of a manual lock? Thats more than one question.

I don't want to damage these babies, from what I've been reading on this Board they are expensive to replace with NOS Spicers, so I'd like to do this in the least damaging way. They are pretty Crapped Up inside, and feel kinda scratchy, gritty when I turn them.

Oh yeah, do you 'repack' a locking hub with grease? How?

Thanks for your help with this, sorry for all the questions.

72longbed

jeffspower · 03-03-2005, 01:00 AM

I don't remember for sure how the knobs are held in, but I do remember that they are very simple to take apart. There is a thin o-ring that seals the knob to the chrome housing if I remember right. It is tough to find new o-rings that fit right. Regular solvent should not hurt anything (except rubber parts). Carb cleaner can damage the plastic knobs though. You need a special 4-tab socket for the wheel bearing nuts, & a smaller similar socket for the upper ball joints spanner nuts (if you go there). A special puller is nice to have for the spindles, but not needed. A BFH & a block of wood will break them loose. Sometimes you have to beat back-and-forth to break the rust loose. Have you had the diff. cover off yet? I bet it is full of the gook too. The inner axles seals only keep the oil in- they don't have a lip to keep stuff out.

Sounds like a teardown to the bear housing is in your future

jeffspower · 03-03-2005, 01:06 AM

I just noticed you stated the hubs were held on with allen screws- are they tiny screws? If they are, you have a '77-up axle. '76 & older 3/4 tons have large bolts, that might be a 3/8" allen head or hex head. Use a light amount of oil on the lockout parts- grease makes them hard to turn and hang up when it is cold.

**JIMs70GMC** · 03-03-2005, 07:18 AM

The external style hubs takes a 5/16" allen to remove, or in the case of my selectros a 9/16" wrench. The bolts are 3/8" course.

*72longbed* · 03-03-2005, 10:27 AM

Sorry for the confusion guys, but I typed a whole lot of extra (sore index fingers)

words up above to try and make it clear.

OK, the axle is a 1971 GM Dana 44 8 Lug 3/4 Ton with the LARGE SPICER MANUAL LOCKING DIALS. They are held on with LARGE ALLEN HEAD BOLTS (6).

Everything is dissasembled and cleaned except for the Chrome DIAL part of the MANUAL LOCKING HUB and the 2.5" long steel ring that comes off with it when you remove the SPICER Bolts along with the INTERNALS of those TWO parts ONLY. What I'm trying to find out is how to clean out the LOCKING MANUAL (I don't want to say Hub because somebody will think that I mean wheel hub) MECHANISM, the very last thing thats bolted to the end of the front axle.

I hope this is clear. If not, here's one other way to explain the parts that I want to DISSASEMBLE and CLEAN OUT. Here goes; If you were to want to replace the LOCKING HUBS, (the part that you turn with your fingers), you would order them for your axle from an aftermarket dealer. They bolt to the very end of the axle hub. Say you wanted to take them apart before you installed them, thats what I want to do.

BUT I DON"T KNOW HOW!!

So If there is anybody out there that has done this personally, please respond. I appreciate it.

Thank you,
72longbed

*72longbed* · 03-07-2005, 10:09 AM

ttt Anybody ever taken apart and cleaned out their Locking Hubs??

72

nu2-72 · 03-07-2005, 04:03 PM

Push the 1/8" pin to one side carefully. The slotted steel liner will come off with a little wiggling or tap it slightly out of one side and pull it out. This will help support the knob while removing. Remove the pin completely. Down in the recess is a snap ring the holds the knob in. It is a bear to remove. With the right tool, it comes out and then pop out the knob. I have used a small screwdriver and an O-ring pick to work it up. Once out of the groove, you can push the knob but it will slide against the plastic and cut. Be careful and go slow. Clean completely and oil the seal. The steel sleeve has two ears on it. They only go into the housing one way correctly. When in Free, the sleeve will be in the hub. When in lock, it will be out. This engages the gears.
I will send you the sheet if you send me your email.

nu2-72 · 03-07-2005, 06:42 PM

Here are the parts. You should be able to see the groove in the blue knob. The seals are the correct GM seals. Basically a cup seal.

*72longbed* · 03-07-2005, 09:45 PM

nu2-72,
thanks man, you're the Guru of locking hubs!! Thats Great!! I knew these babies came apart to a level where everything could be cleaned properly, just didn't know the steps.

My e-mail address:
suprtuff@fast.net

Please send the printed material.

BTW, can I still buy those rubber seals anywhere?? Do you have any to sell??
Also could use 1 Blue center if you have any to sell?
Thanks Again,
72longbed

nu2-72 · 03-08-2005, 08:16 PM

Did you get my scan?

*72longbed* · 03-09-2005, 04:20 AM

nu2-72,
Yes I got the scan but it won't print out for some reason?? I need to be able to take the page to my shop where all of the parts are. Can you try to resend it in another format possibly?

Any of those Blue centers for the 3/4 ton Locking hubs to sell??

Thanks for your help with all of this,
72longbed

nu2-72 · 03-09-2005, 07:50 AM

Sorry, none for sale right now.
I will rescan tonight and send differently.

03-02-2005, 10:56 PM	#1
72longbed Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PA Posts: 1,411	Need "HOW TO" Advice Please! Well I am working on this 1971 K20 Dana 44 front axle. It has the large manual Spicer locking hubs (one Red, one Blue, HA!) I'm pretty much rebuilding everything except the carrier and ring and pinion. As you guys know, that's a lot with these Dana fronts. So as I get into this thing, I find that everything is contaminated with a stinky (as in SMELLY!) blackish, gritty mess. As if the last owner/operator ran it through some deep sewage hole at the beach with the locking hubs off and it sucked up the mess inside the spindles, axle hubs, and locking hub mechanism. So total tear down from the axle tubes on out. Along with a good bath in parts solvent, I'm going to replace all of the wheel and spindle bearings, races, seals, U-joints, and related wear items. Here's my question: when I removed the six Allen head screws that hold on the Spicer hubs, I could see that the locking hub mechanisms are also contaminated with this Gunk. I don't want to 'soak' these parts. What is the correct method used to clean out the locking hub mechanism itself?? Do I take apart the 'lock' itself? If so, what position do I turn the dial to to take apart this thing? What is the procedure, step by step, to take a Spicer manual hub apart and clean it out? What special tools might I need? Whats the best solution or solvent to use on the internal parts of a manual lock? Thats more than one question. I don't want to damage these babies, from what I've been reading on this Board they are expensive to replace with NOS Spicers, so I'd like to do this in the least damaging way. They are pretty Crapped Up inside, and feel kinda scratchy, gritty when I turn them. Oh yeah, do you 'repack' a locking hub with grease? How? Thanks for your help with this, sorry for all the questions. 72longbed

03-03-2005, 01:00 AM	#2
jeffspower Well, Whoop-dee-do! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Easton, Mo. pop.- me & scarcely a few others Posts: 2,302	I don't remember for sure how the knobs are held in, but I do remember that they are very simple to take apart. There is a thin o-ring that seals the knob to the chrome housing if I remember right. It is tough to find new o-rings that fit right. Regular solvent should not hurt anything (except rubber parts). Carb cleaner can damage the plastic knobs though. You need a special 4-tab socket for the wheel bearing nuts, & a smaller similar socket for the upper ball joints spanner nuts (if you go there). A special puller is nice to have for the spindles, but not needed. A BFH & a block of wood will break them loose. Sometimes you have to beat back-and-forth to break the rust loose. Have you had the diff. cover off yet? I bet it is full of the gook too. The inner axles seals only keep the oil in- they don't have a lip to keep stuff out. Sounds like a teardown to the bear housing is in your future __________________ '68 GMC shortbox 4x4 350/SM465/T221- bought it in '83 SOLD '72 K20 500 Cad/TH400/NP205 SOLD '92 Chevy 2500 6.5 mech TD 4L80E crusty daily driver '72 Monte Carlo... sweet low mile toy '11 Dodge Challenger IE 392 6spd... midlife car

03-03-2005, 01:06 AM	#3
jeffspower Well, Whoop-dee-do! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Easton, Mo. pop.- me & scarcely a few others Posts: 2,302	I just noticed you stated the hubs were held on with allen screws- are they tiny screws? If they are, you have a '77-up axle. '76 & older 3/4 tons have large bolts, that might be a 3/8" allen head or hex head. Use a light amount of oil on the lockout parts- grease makes them hard to turn and hang up when it is cold. __________________ '68 GMC shortbox 4x4 350/SM465/T221- bought it in '83 SOLD '72 K20 500 Cad/TH400/NP205 SOLD '92 Chevy 2500 6.5 mech TD 4L80E crusty daily driver '72 Monte Carlo... sweet low mile toy '11 Dodge Challenger IE 392 6spd... midlife car Last edited by jeffspower; 03-03-2005 at 01:09 AM.

03-03-2005, 07:18 AM	#4
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	The external style hubs takes a 5/16" allen to remove, or in the case of my selectros a 9/16" wrench. The bolts are 3/8" course. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

03-07-2005, 04:03 PM	#7
nu2-72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Amazonia, Mo. USA Posts: 2,821	Push the 1/8" pin to one side carefully. The slotted steel liner will come off with a little wiggling or tap it slightly out of one side and pull it out. This will help support the knob while removing. Remove the pin completely. Down in the recess is a snap ring the holds the knob in. It is a bear to remove. With the right tool, it comes out and then pop out the knob. I have used a small screwdriver and an O-ring pick to work it up. Once out of the groove, you can push the knob but it will slide against the plastic and cut. Be careful and go slow. Clean completely and oil the seal. The steel sleeve has two ears on it. They only go into the housing one way correctly. When in Free, the sleeve will be in the hub. When in lock, it will be out. This engages the gears. I will send you the sheet if you send me your email. __________________ 72 3/4 4x4 350 4spd 72 3/4 4x4 350 auto 2004 Duramax Silverado 4x4 2006 Duramax Crew cab 4x4 2010 Harley Ultra Limited 2011 Harley Street Glide Last edited by nu2-72; 03-07-2005 at 04:31 PM.

03-03-2005, 10:27 AM	#5
72longbed Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PA Posts: 1,411	Sorry for the confusion guys, but I typed a whole lot of extra (sore index fingers) words up above to try and make it clear. OK, the axle is a 1971 GM Dana 44 8 Lug 3/4 Ton with the LARGE SPICER MANUAL LOCKING DIALS. They are held on with LARGE ALLEN HEAD BOLTS (6). Everything is dissasembled and cleaned except for the Chrome DIAL part of the MANUAL LOCKING HUB and the 2.5" long steel ring that comes off with it when you remove the SPICER Bolts along with the INTERNALS of those TWO parts ONLY. What I'm trying to find out is how to clean out the LOCKING MANUAL (I don't want to say Hub because somebody will think that I mean wheel hub) MECHANISM, the very last thing thats bolted to the end of the front axle. I hope this is clear. If not, here's one other way to explain the parts that I want to DISSASEMBLE and CLEAN OUT. Here goes; If you were to want to replace the LOCKING HUBS, (the part that you turn with your fingers), you would order them for your axle from an aftermarket dealer. They bolt to the very end of the axle hub. Say you wanted to take them apart before you installed them, thats what I want to do. BUT I DON"T KNOW HOW!! So If there is anybody out there that has done this personally, please respond. I appreciate it. Thank you, 72longbed

03-07-2005, 10:09 AM	#6
72longbed Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PA Posts: 1,411	ttt Anybody ever taken apart and cleaned out their Locking Hubs?? 72

03-07-2005, 06:42 PM	#8
nu2-72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Amazonia, Mo. USA Posts: 2,821	Here are the parts. You should be able to see the groove in the blue knob. The seals are the correct GM seals. Basically a cup seal. Attached Images __________________ 72 3/4 4x4 350 4spd 72 3/4 4x4 350 auto 2004 Duramax Silverado 4x4 2006 Duramax Crew cab 4x4 2010 Harley Ultra Limited 2011 Harley Street Glide

03-07-2005, 09:45 PM	#9
72longbed Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PA Posts: 1,411	nu2-72, thanks man, you're the Guru of locking hubs!! Thats Great!! I knew these babies came apart to a level where everything could be cleaned properly, just didn't know the steps. My e-mail address: suprtuff@fast.net Please send the printed material. BTW, can I still buy those rubber seals anywhere?? Do you have any to sell?? Also could use 1 Blue center if you have any to sell? Thanks Again, 72longbed Last edited by 72longbed; 03-07-2005 at 09:47 PM.

03-08-2005, 08:16 PM	#10
nu2-72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Amazonia, Mo. USA Posts: 2,821	Did you get my scan? __________________ 72 3/4 4x4 350 4spd 72 3/4 4x4 350 auto 2004 Duramax Silverado 4x4 2006 Duramax Crew cab 4x4 2010 Harley Ultra Limited 2011 Harley Street Glide

03-09-2005, 04:20 AM	#11
72longbed Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PA Posts: 1,411	nu2-72, Yes I got the scan but it won't print out for some reason?? I need to be able to take the page to my shop where all of the parts are. Can you try to resend it in another format possibly? Any of those Blue centers for the 3/4 ton Locking hubs to sell?? Thanks for your help with all of this, 72longbed

03-09-2005, 07:50 AM	#12
nu2-72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Amazonia, Mo. USA Posts: 2,821	Sorry, none for sale right now. I will rescan tonight and send differently. __________________ 72 3/4 4x4 350 4spd 72 3/4 4x4 350 auto 2004 Duramax Silverado 4x4 2006 Duramax Crew cab 4x4 2010 Harley Ultra Limited 2011 Harley Street Glide



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