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hot!rod · 03-04-2005, 01:08 PM

I just called ECE to get some rear springs to replace the HEATED ones on my truck. I want to level it out with the front. They told me to measure from the center of the front wheel up to the fender and call them back. Well, I did and when I told him 14.25 inches I thought he was going to quit breathing. Anyway, he said he's never seen one that low and he wants me to change to drop spindles and springs. I really like where the front sits and had rather not change it, but if this is not very safe then I need to do something. The front springs are not heated, they have been replaced recently, but I don't know what they are. I haven't checked the spindles, but he wasn't the kind of guy to spend the money for the drop spindles. Anybody ever heard of this short of a measurement?

I'm lost

XXL · 03-04-2005, 01:21 PM

That's about a 4.75" drop. Stick spindle-to-fender lip on the C-10 is 19". That's not "stop breathing" territory but it's definitely at the limit of a spring-only drop.

hot!rod · 03-04-2005, 01:33 PM

What should I do? Order a 4/6 kit? Leave the front since it's where I like it? This crap always seems to happen at the worst possible time. It was going to the paint shop Monday. So a 4/6 would be about 15"? That's cool. It's only 3/4" higher.
Anyone know the measurements from the top of the axle tube to the frame rail above it? That's what I measured (instead of trailing arm to frame rail like he wanted, duh!).

Thanks, couldn't make it without the board.

XXL · 03-04-2005, 01:48 PM

Rear wheel centerline-to-fender opening is 22" stock.

**lolife99** · 03-04-2005, 09:26 PM

hot!rod,... WELCOME to the board! You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the front of your truck? Maybe one that would show the angle of the lower a-arms. No chance your truck has spindles on it already? Just a thought. Doubt it with "heated" springs on the back. With that much spring cut,... you should be able to move the spring around in the "pocket", when the front wheels are off the ground. Spindles are definitely BETTER! You can't go wrong with ECE stuff.

see ten · 03-04-2005, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hot!rod

What should I do? Order a 4/6 kit? Leave the front since it's where I like it? This crap always seems to happen at the worst possible time. It was going to the paint shop Monday. So a 4/6 would be about 15"? That's cool. It's only 3/4" higher.
Anyone know the measurements from the top of the axle tube to the frame rail above it? That's what I measured (instead of trailing arm to frame rail like he wanted, duh!).

Thanks, couldn't make it without the board.

I spoke to Dave at ECE a few days ago about a 4/6 and he said it would leave 3'' between the frame and axle tube. So we can assume that stock height with new springs would have 9" betwen the tube and the frame. Anyway you could use this as a starting point to see where you are.

hot!rod · 03-05-2005, 11:27 AM

I finally got in touch with the PO. The front springs are out of an 80s model and he just cut em. GREAT. Now I have to start all over in the front too. Anyway, thanks for all the responses. I now have starting measurements to go with.

Thanks again

67chevy2wd · 03-05-2005, 04:08 PM

I noticed when you said he cute the springs that you would have to start all over. I was planning on cutting my springs on my 69 for an cheap drop, for the time being. Is this a bad Idea, because i don't have the money to buy a drop kit cuz i am in college. I have a 67 and a 69 that are both torn down to the frame and i want to put the 69 back together so i can drive it, and rebuild the 67.

As hot!rod said "Thanks, Couldn't make it without the board"

dave2953 · 03-06-2005, 08:36 PM

I'm in college too and don't have much money. I have a 68 SWB and cut my front springs. I took 1.5 coils out of the front and got a pretty decent drop but it doesn't ride very good. It isn't dangerous, but it makes a lot of noise when you go over bumps (the noise is the spring moving between the control arms because it's so much shorter) It works for now though and seems to be a popular alternative for those of us that are financially challenged

Hope this helps.

Just as a footnote, you won't be able to cut the rear springs (if you have rear coil suspension) because they're tapered at the ends to fit in the cups. I had to bite the bullet and buy lowering springs from ECE but 5" springs were only like $115 shipped. If you take 1.5 coils out of the front, get 6" springs for the rear. Mine has too much rake and it looks goofy.

69 longhorn · 03-06-2005, 09:01 PM

I have cut coils on my longhorn.....1 ring gives 2 1/2-3" drop, & ride/ handle is good. I also have fabbed a set front shock relocators, to run the stock shocks. the bumpstops on the lower a arms need to be lopped off, & use traction bar snubbers for the stop. The front rides a tad soft, but not too bad......addition of a good stiff sway bar should stiffen the front up a bit tho. 69L

03-04-2005, 01:08 PM	#1
hot!rod Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Northeast TX Posts: 58	Houston,we have a problem! I just called ECE to get some rear springs to replace the HEATED ones on my truck. I want to level it out with the front. They told me to measure from the center of the front wheel up to the fender and call them back. Well, I did and when I told him 14.25 inches I thought he was going to quit breathing. Anyway, he said he's never seen one that low and he wants me to change to drop spindles and springs. I really like where the front sits and had rather not change it, but if this is not very safe then I need to do something. The front springs are not heated, they have been replaced recently, but I don't know what they are. I haven't checked the spindles, but he wasn't the kind of guy to spend the money for the drop spindles. Anybody ever heard of this short of a measurement? I'm lost __________________ Why do we drive on a parkway and park on a driveway?

03-04-2005, 01:21 PM	#2
XXL Señor Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Edge of the world Posts: 5,367	That's about a 4.75" drop. Stick spindle-to-fender lip on the C-10 is 19". That's not "stop breathing" territory but it's definitely at the limit of a spring-only drop. __________________ Craigslist \| ebay \| Engrishtees \| www.myattitudesucks.com \| Follow me on Twitter

03-04-2005, 01:33 PM	#3
hot!rod Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Northeast TX Posts: 58	What should I do? Order a 4/6 kit? Leave the front since it's where I like it? This crap always seems to happen at the worst possible time. It was going to the paint shop Monday. So a 4/6 would be about 15"? That's cool. It's only 3/4" higher. Anyone know the measurements from the top of the axle tube to the frame rail above it? That's what I measured (instead of trailing arm to frame rail like he wanted, duh!). Thanks, couldn't make it without the board. __________________ Why do we drive on a parkway and park on a driveway?

03-04-2005, 01:48 PM	#4
XXL Señor Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Edge of the world Posts: 5,367	Rear wheel centerline-to-fender opening is 22" stock. __________________ Craigslist \| ebay \| Engrishtees \| www.myattitudesucks.com \| Follow me on Twitter

03-04-2005, 09:26 PM	#5
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,692	hot!rod,... WELCOME to the board! You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the front of your truck? Maybe one that would show the angle of the lower a-arms. No chance your truck has spindles on it already? Just a thought. Doubt it with "heated" springs on the back. With that much spring cut,... you should be able to move the spring around in the "pocket", when the front wheels are off the ground. Spindles are definitely BETTER! You can't go wrong with ECE stuff. __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

03-05-2005, 11:27 AM	#7
hot!rod Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Northeast TX Posts: 58	I finally got in touch with the PO. The front springs are out of an 80s model and he just cut em. GREAT. Now I have to start all over in the front too. Anyway, thanks for all the responses. I now have starting measurements to go with. Thanks again __________________ Why do we drive on a parkway and park on a driveway?

03-05-2005, 04:08 PM	#8
67chevy2wd Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: New Salem, ND Posts: 1,558	I noticed when you said he cute the springs that you would have to start all over. I was planning on cutting my springs on my 69 for an cheap drop, for the time being. Is this a bad Idea, because i don't have the money to buy a drop kit cuz i am in college. I have a 67 and a 69 that are both torn down to the frame and i want to put the 69 back together so i can drive it, and rebuild the 67. As hot!rod said "Thanks, Couldn't make it without the board" __________________ 07 Chevy classic LBZ Duramax (a few mods) '67 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd (in pieces) '69 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd (on hold) '71 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 ‘71 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd suburban

03-06-2005, 08:36 PM	#9
dave2953 Dave's not here, man Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Winder, Georgia Posts: 2,000	I'm in college too and don't have much money. I have a 68 SWB and cut my front springs. I took 1.5 coils out of the front and got a pretty decent drop but it doesn't ride very good. It isn't dangerous, but it makes a lot of noise when you go over bumps (the noise is the spring moving between the control arms because it's so much shorter) It works for now though and seems to be a popular alternative for those of us that are financially challenged Hope this helps. Just as a footnote, you won't be able to cut the rear springs (if you have rear coil suspension) because they're tapered at the ends to fit in the cups. I had to bite the bullet and buy lowering springs from ECE but 5" springs were only like $115 shipped. If you take 1.5 coils out of the front, get 6" springs for the rear. Mine has too much rake and it looks goofy.

03-06-2005, 09:01 PM	#10
69 longhorn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: rock island,il,usa Posts: 5,382	I have cut coils on my longhorn.....1 ring gives 2 1/2-3" drop, & ride/ handle is good. I also have fabbed a set front shock relocators, to run the stock shocks. the bumpstops on the lower a arms need to be lopped off, & use traction bar snubbers for the stop. The front rides a tad soft, but not too bad......addition of a good stiff sway bar should stiffen the front up a bit tho. 69L __________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/hotrodhorn



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