Friggin' U bolts - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

c10chevy69 · 03-07-2005, 12:21 AM

With so many of you having lowered your trucks, How the hell did you guys get the U bolts off? After 33 plus years those nuts are really on there! Any suggestions? I don't have a compressor if that helps any.

67cst · 03-07-2005, 12:26 AM

get a grinder and cut them off maybe? or torch..even a sharp blade on a hacksaw would be faster then trying to get the nuts off

**clay68c10** · 03-07-2005, 12:28 AM

Lots of penetrating oil over a few days and the "death bar" (three foot long cheater bar on a breaker bar). Be ready to fall if the bolt breaks.

longhorn71 · 03-07-2005, 12:29 AM

cut them.i used a grinder with a cut off wheel.A cutting torch makes fast work of them too.The welding shop here in town charged me 11 bucks a peaice for them.U-bolt in my opinoin should not be used more then once.they strecth after they have been used.The ones on my 1-ton were the originals and were rusted part wat through too.rember they are the only thing holding the rear end in your truck,so for safety resons replace them

4x4Poet · 03-07-2005, 12:31 AM

What did you do to prepare them to come off? At the very least, wire wheel the threads and then apply penetrating oil. Maybe use the hack saw to "straighten" out some of the nicked threads. Unless you have that large of a thread cutting die, of course. Also, the longer the rachet or breaker bar, the better. Or extend yours with a pipe. I'm out!

Brainchild · 03-07-2005, 12:35 AM

The only way is the firegod,those dudes won't come loose in most cases,and if you're gonna lower it,you'll need new ones anyway.
Grinder with a cutoff wheel works too,but a torch get it done quick.

powell72 · 03-07-2005, 01:27 AM

Get'em hot with a torch and use a big pipe!

*screamin_c102* · 03-07-2005, 01:37 AM

Wrap a chain around the axle and the connect the other end to a fire hydrant, then floor it. Be prepared for a sudden stop if the bolt doesn't break.

krue · 03-07-2005, 02:43 AM

Oxygen + Acetylene makes that an easy job. Besides everybody needs a torch and you will find a hundred uses for it after you get it.

SLS · 03-07-2005, 05:02 AM

You may want to give heating them up with a good ol' Propane torch a try.

I have been able to get rusted bumper bolts, coil spring holder bolts, and U-Bolts off just by getting them hot with Propane...and then using a 3/4 inch drive with a cheater bar.

I learned the hard way (cursing and bleeding knuckles)....until I was told to try this method. It has worked good for me so far, but the bolt heads were not buggered up.

On the bolts that are 'rounded off', I whip out the air compressor and the cut-off wheel and watch the sparks fly.

LONGHAIR · 03-07-2005, 07:20 AM

For those with-out the benefit of a torch or air compressor.....there is a trick.
As everone knows, once you get one side cut loose with a recipricating type of saw (Sawsall) you have problems with cutting the other side because of the vibration. The "trick" is to cut one side about 3/4 of the way through and while it is still holding tight cut the other side. Then when it is cut through you "break" the other side with a long ratchet/socket by turning it. (either way it doesn't matter) Be prepared for the "Pop!" 'cause there will be one. The older and rustyer the spring stack.........the bigger the snap will be.

400ex · 03-07-2005, 09:02 AM

Well, c10chevy69, I did it the old fashioned way. Let some penetrating oil work its way in for about a day. Got a 3/4" drive breaker bar and socket and then dang near strained my berries loosening the nuts off. My crappy impact wouldn't even phase them. And they all fought me then entire way off.

James

arkracing · 03-07-2005, 10:30 AM

I personally like the "fire-wrech" method - but you can heat them up with a propane torch and see if you can break them loose with a cheater bar - you might have to re-heat them if they start to get hard to turn again

**raggedjim** · 03-07-2005, 11:23 AM

I used a cutoff wheel in the very center of the top (1 cut per bolt vs. 2 cuts) Longhair is right, they will make a hell of a pop when they split! Once the bolt is cut thru use a cheater bar and socket to rotate it and then it will drop out.

Most of these I have ever seen aren't worth saving after 30 years of rust, so cutting isn't a big deal.

Good luck, Rg

c10chevy69 · 03-12-2005, 01:42 AM

Where can you get new u bolts without having to order them? I know that they come with the kit when you lower a truck but mine is not going to be lowered. I just need new ones to replace the soon to be mangled ones.

JBstor · 03-12-2005, 01:50 AM

Any good spring/alignment shop should be able to make you up some new ones no problem.

JB

68haywagon · 03-12-2005, 11:05 AM

Well I just wen through this replacing my trailing arms. I salvaged one U-bolt by busting my ass, the other I had to cut. No one in town had any new ones in stock and I ended up going to a spring shop and they bent up 2 new ones in about 3 minutes for $30, they told me that they needed an old one as an example luckily I saved one.

Good Luck!

Mike

mac · 03-12-2005, 11:49 AM

And take a REAL good look at the diff tube. I had rust thru that required a patch be welded on. The U-bolts and cab corners ain't the only places that mother nature uses to bring 'em back to her.

___________________________________________

Mac '67 ZZ4/700R4 Dropped and Shaved with an Eyebrow trim

FRENCHBLUE72 · 03-12-2005, 07:50 PM

I cut mine with a torch and then a disk grinder to clean up the slag enoughf to get em through the holes..

longhorn71 · 03-13-2005, 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c10chevy69

Where can you get new u bolts without having to order them? I know that they come with the kit when you lower a truck but mine is not going to be lowered. I just need new ones to replace the soon to be mangled ones.

The weld shop in town bent up 4 for my 1-ton.It was 45 ucks for them and they need to see peices of the old one to make them

TRUCKGUY · 03-13-2005, 01:14 AM

breaker bar works GREAT thats what i use on all of them with 2foot pipe in some cases.. spray penetratin oil on them to it really helps lol

03-07-2005, 12:21 AM	#1
c10chevy69 Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 205	Friggin' U bolts With so many of you having lowered your trucks, How the hell did you guys get the U bolts off? After 33 plus years those nuts are really on there! Any suggestions? I don't have a compressor if that helps any. __________________ 1969 chevy C10 long bed 350 4bbl auto p/disc and 5 lug

03-07-2005, 12:26 AM	#2
67cst i love summertime Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Kelowna BC Posts: 4,302	get a grinder and cut them off maybe? or torch..even a sharp blade on a hacksaw would be faster then trying to get the nuts off __________________ 1967 shortbox stepside Chevy, 365 hp 327, th400. GLOVE BOX LIGHTS FORSALE, click link for info http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=273724

03-07-2005, 12:28 AM	#3
clay68c10 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Centennial, CO Posts: 2,991	Lots of penetrating oil over a few days and the "death bar" (three foot long cheater bar on a breaker bar). Be ready to fall if the bolt breaks. __________________ ClusterTruck: 68 C10 Bought in 89, wrecked in 03. Slow low $ rebuild started '17. 6.0 & TKO http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=788602 93 K1500 Short Step, 350, NV4500, EBL flash ECU. Vortec heads & roller cam someday... 05 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. 3” lift & 6-speed 02 E320 the insurance total “free car” 13 Tahoe LTZ

03-07-2005, 12:31 AM	#5
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	What did you do to prepare them to come off? At the very least, wire wheel the threads and then apply penetrating oil. Maybe use the hack saw to "straighten" out some of the nicked threads. Unless you have that large of a thread cutting die, of course. Also, the longer the rachet or breaker bar, the better. Or extend yours with a pipe. I'm out! __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

03-07-2005, 12:35 AM	#6
Brainchild Still drivin' a Rat Rod Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Monett Missouri Posts: 4,925	The only way is the firegod,those dudes won't come loose in most cases,and if you're gonna lower it,you'll need new ones anyway. Grinder with a cutoff wheel works too,but a torch get it done quick. __________________ Rusty Member #13872 Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the a$# 71 GMC LWB 49 Chevy 85 Chevy G20 Check out my website

03-07-2005, 12:29 AM	#4
longhorn71 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: CANADA Posts: 1,681	cut them.i used a grinder with a cut off wheel.A cutting torch makes fast work of them too.The welding shop here in town charged me 11 bucks a peaice for them.U-bolt in my opinoin should not be used more then once.they strecth after they have been used.The ones on my 1-ton were the originals and were rusted part wat through too.rember they are the only thing holding the rear end in your truck,so for safety resons replace them

03-07-2005, 01:27 AM	#7
powell72 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Loveland Co. Posts: 3,098	Get'em hot with a torch and use a big pipe! __________________ Chris 74 Custom Deluxe SWB 350/350/3.73’s 99 2wd Silverado RCSB 5.3/4L60/3.90’s http://www.classictrucks.com/feature...short_bed.html

03-07-2005, 01:37 AM	#8
screamin_c102 Account Suspended Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Yoncalla Oregon Posts: 775	Wrap a chain around the axle and the connect the other end to a fire hydrant, then floor it. Be prepared for a sudden stop if the bolt doesn't break.

03-07-2005, 02:43 AM	#9
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,448	Oxygen + Acetylene makes that an easy job. Besides everybody needs a torch and you will find a hundred uses for it after you get it. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

03-07-2005, 05:02 AM	#10
SLS Finish the'71..or bust! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Nashville, TN. Posts: 441	You may want to give heating them up with a good ol' Propane torch a try. I have been able to get rusted bumper bolts, coil spring holder bolts, and U-Bolts off just by getting them hot with Propane...and then using a 3/4 inch drive with a cheater bar. I learned the hard way (cursing and bleeding knuckles)....until I was told to try this method. It has worked good for me so far, but the bolt heads were not buggered up. On the bolts that are 'rounded off', I whip out the air compressor and the cut-off wheel and watch the sparks fly.

03-07-2005, 07:20 AM	#11
LONGHAIR just can't cover up my redneck Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 11,414	For those with-out the benefit of a torch or air compressor.....there is a trick. As everone knows, once you get one side cut loose with a recipricating type of saw (Sawsall) you have problems with cutting the other side because of the vibration. The "trick" is to cut one side about 3/4 of the way through and while it is still holding tight cut the other side. Then when it is cut through you "break" the other side with a long ratchet/socket by turning it. (either way it doesn't matter) Be prepared for the "Pop!" 'cause there will be one. The older and rustyer the spring stack.........the bigger the snap will be.

03-07-2005, 09:02 AM	#12
400ex Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Damon, Tx Posts: 56	Well, c10chevy69, I did it the old fashioned way. Let some penetrating oil work its way in for about a day. Got a 3/4" drive breaker bar and socket and then dang near strained my berries loosening the nuts off. My crappy impact wouldn't even phase them. And they all fought me then entire way off. James

03-07-2005, 10:30 AM	#13
arkracing Weekend Warrior Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: CT Posts: 1,787	I personally like the "fire-wrech" method - but you can heat them up with a propane torch and see if you can break them loose with a cheater bar - you might have to re-heat them if they start to get hard to turn again __________________ -'07 GMC Sierra K2500HD -'66 C10 Suburban -'68/'71 K20 Service Bed Project -'69 Chevy C30 Mason Dump -'33Ford P/U 396ChevyPowered

03-07-2005, 11:23 AM	#14
raggedjim Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Murray, Kentucky Posts: 3,515	I used a cutoff wheel in the very center of the top (1 cut per bolt vs. 2 cuts) Longhair is right, they will make a hell of a pop when they split! Once the bolt is cut thru use a cheater bar and socket to rotate it and then it will drop out. Most of these I have ever seen aren't worth saving after 30 years of rust, so cutting isn't a big deal. Good luck, Rg __________________ Roger '68 Short step - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=849675 '69 ('70?) 2wd Blazer '70 GMC Jimmy 2wd '73 Firebird - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=853203 Ideas - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=851743

03-12-2005, 01:42 AM	#15
c10chevy69 Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 205	Where can you get new u bolts without having to order them? I know that they come with the kit when you lower a truck but mine is not going to be lowered. I just need new ones to replace the soon to be mangled ones. __________________ 1969 chevy C10 long bed 350 4bbl auto p/disc and 5 lug



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03-12-2005, 01:50 AM	#16
JBstor Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 66	Any good spring/alignment shop should be able to make you up some new ones no problem. JB

03-12-2005, 11:05 AM	#17
68haywagon I'm watching you! Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Levittown, PA Posts: 1,822	Well I just wen through this replacing my trailing arms. I salvaged one U-bolt by busting my ass, the other I had to cut. No one in town had any new ones in stock and I ended up going to a spring shop and they bent up 2 new ones in about 3 minutes for $30, they told me that they needed an old one as an example luckily I saved one. Good Luck! Mike

03-12-2005, 11:49 AM	#18
mac Active Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 166	And take a REAL good look at the diff tube. I had rust thru that required a patch be welded on. The U-bolts and cab corners ain't the only places that mother nature uses to bring 'em back to her. ___________________________________________ Mac '67 ZZ4/700R4 Dropped and Shaved with an Eyebrow trim

03-12-2005, 07:50 PM	#19
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,606	I cut mine with a torch and then a disk grinder to clean up the slag enoughf to get em through the holes.. __________________ GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P..

03-13-2005, 01:14 AM	#21
TRUCKGUY Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Nortonville, Ky Posts: 407	breaker bar works GREAT thats what i use on all of them with 2foot pipe in some cases.. spray penetratin oil on them to it really helps lol __________________ Dan. 55 F100 panel truck project 64 350/th400/10bolt short fleet 66 F100 302/C6/9" short fleet 67 IH 4x2 304/t984speed D44 373 locker lwb box 67 IH 4x4 304/t98 4speed/d44/d60 4.10'slwb box 67 IH Travelall 4x4 304/t98 4speed/12bolt/10bolt 81 2wd short fleet current build! 83 350/700r4 short fleet 88 k5 12" lift 3/4 ton swap mud toy 96 Dodge 3500 CUMMINS/5speed/4x2 97 Pontiac Trans Am WS6/LT1 383/6speed/T-tops

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