Rusted on Bolt - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Striker169 · 03-10-2005, 08:52 PM

So I was trying to replace my starter on my Mustang (1972 20kMiles) and I got one of the bolts off fine, I move for the second one and it is just too rusted on It will NOT come loose and like the 2nd time I tried it just stripped and I know I am using the right size and going the right direction I got the upper one off but the lower one is just too hardcore stuck on there. Any ideas on how to get it off? esp now that it is somewhat stripped?

krue · 03-10-2005, 09:52 PM

Start by spraying it with PBBLaster or Kroil and letting it set for a little while. Before trying to loosen it again hit the head of the bolt straight on (may bust a little rust off). By stripped what do you mean? If the bolt head is rounded off you have a couple of options. One is to get the next smaller metric socket and hammer it onto the bolt and use that to turn it out or Sears sells sockets specifically for rounded off bolt heads.

JBstor · 03-10-2005, 10:29 PM

Oh, Those F@rd starter bolts were ALWAYS very hard to remove. If you have damaged the head of the bolt too much to get a good grip, forget getting it to come with a wrench or socket.

I always used a good Snap-on wrench, or socket, and was careful never to use any old or worn tools to attempt it. Whenever I ran into that, it was because I was taking the starter off to remove the transmission, so I would usually try to heat the housing around the bolt with a torch, and try to loosen the bolt with a good wrench, or a good pair of vice grips.. If you have no experience with a torch, I don't recommend that you do this yourself. You can torch the bolt heads off, too, and then try heating it after, or in the exteme, drilling the bolts out.

If you get a shop to do it, ask if they have done this before. The whole thing can turn into a mess real fast for the inexperienced.

HTH
JB

Striker169 · 03-10-2005, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krue

Start by spraying it with PBBLaster or Kroil and letting it set for a little while. Before trying to loosen it again hit the head of the bolt straight on (may bust a little rust off). By stripped what do you mean? If the bolt head is rounded off you have a couple of options. One is to get the next smaller metric socket and hammer it onto the bolt and use that to turn it out or Sears sells sockets specifically for rounded off bolt heads.

Yeah I am gonna try the next smallest size thing and see if that will work, it is a 1/2 inch bolt so what would the next best size to use a 12mm?

hobby67stepside · 03-10-2005, 10:40 PM

Do you mean it takes a 1/2 inch wrench to fit the head (a 5/16 bolt)? If so a 12 mm would be the size to try because 13 mm and 1/2 English are nearly identical. Do you really have a '72 Mustang with only 20,000 miles?

krue · 03-10-2005, 10:40 PM

Yeah 12 mm would be next size down.

Striker169 · 03-10-2005, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krue

Yeah 12 mm would be next size down.

alright lets pray this works or its gonna cost alot of money I dont frankly have, this is already an expense for me I was saving up for patch pannels on my truck dam fords! jk this one has been a really reliable car untill this

krue · 03-10-2005, 10:46 PM

Make sure you use the penetrating oil. WD-40 ain't gonna cut it, you're gonna have to use the good stuff.

**VetteVet** · 03-10-2005, 10:48 PM

Is the starter cone aluminum cause if it is it might be corroded to the bolt. I have had good luck heating aluminum with a propane torch and getting it to break loose. The 12 mm is just about right and try a six point if you have one. These things are always a pain but that's why we love working on our vehicles, or maybe not.
Vettevet

Rollie396 · 03-10-2005, 11:00 PM

There's a style of socket and combo wrench out now that grips on the flats of the head instead of the corners.I've used them and they are the cats patoot!They will NOT let go.This may be the same thing that krue mentioned,I'm not sure,but they do work.

pritch · 03-10-2005, 11:05 PM

Another good way to do this kind of thing is get some anti-sieze compound, then heat up the bolt and the housing, and when everything is good and hot slather on the anti-seize and it will suck into the threads much like solder will when sweating together copper pipes. Then let everything cool down and then try the smaller socket thing or vise-grips if you can get to it with them.

Striker169 · 03-11-2005, 12:57 AM

well I got it to work just by using a pair of the lock type plyers I didnt have enough leverdge on my 12mm and I thought wtf why not try it at least just gripped REALLY hard and turned and BAM it loosened up so I got it off, put the new starter on holy **** it starts SOO much faster and no more problum thanks for the help guys!

**kwmech** · 03-11-2005, 01:07 AM

So when you put the new bolts in, they were put in with anti seize right?

avejoe · 03-11-2005, 01:17 AM

72 Ford Mustang? Why would you want to fix it?

Striker169 · 03-11-2005, 01:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwmech

So when you put the new bolts in, they were put in with anti seize right?

Well I am going to get new bolts tomorrow right now I have a shorter bolt for the rounded off one and the old stock one for the other one Im gonna put some anti-seize and 2 new bolts tomorrow on it instead but I have to have it working to get to the store and to work

Striker169 · 03-11-2005, 01:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avejoe

72 Ford Mustang? Why would you want to fix it?

Cuz this one only has 20,000 miles yes that is right it is all origonal except new carb intake and gas tank oh and a new starter heh. here are some pics:

http://striker169.net/Pictures/Mustang2/

03-10-2005, 08:52 PM	#1
Striker169 Car O'Holic Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Austin, Tx. Posts: 692	Rusted on Bolt So I was trying to replace my starter on my Mustang (1972 20kMiles) and I got one of the bolts off fine, I move for the second one and it is just too rusted on It will NOT come loose and like the 2nd time I tried it just stripped and I know I am using the right size and going the right direction I got the upper one off but the lower one is just too hardcore stuck on there. Any ideas on how to get it off? esp now that it is somewhat stripped?

03-10-2005, 09:52 PM	#2
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,448	Start by spraying it with PBBLaster or Kroil and letting it set for a little while. Before trying to loosen it again hit the head of the bolt straight on (may bust a little rust off). By stripped what do you mean? If the bolt head is rounded off you have a couple of options. One is to get the next smaller metric socket and hammer it onto the bolt and use that to turn it out or Sears sells sockets specifically for rounded off bolt heads. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

03-10-2005, 10:40 PM	#6
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,448	Yeah 12 mm would be next size down. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

03-10-2005, 10:46 PM	#8
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,448	Make sure you use the penetrating oil. WD-40 ain't gonna cut it, you're gonna have to use the good stuff. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

03-10-2005, 10:48 PM	#9
VetteVet Msgt USAF Ret Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan Posts: 8,719	Is the starter cone aluminum cause if it is it might be corroded to the bolt. I have had good luck heating aluminum with a propane torch and getting it to break loose. The 12 mm is just about right and try a six point if you have one. These things are always a pain but that's why we love working on our vehicles, or maybe not. Vettevet __________________ VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative.

03-10-2005, 10:29 PM	#3
JBstor Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 66	Oh, Those F@rd starter bolts were ALWAYS very hard to remove. If you have damaged the head of the bolt too much to get a good grip, forget getting it to come with a wrench or socket. I always used a good Snap-on wrench, or socket, and was careful never to use any old or worn tools to attempt it. Whenever I ran into that, it was because I was taking the starter off to remove the transmission, so I would usually try to heat the housing around the bolt with a torch, and try to loosen the bolt with a good wrench, or a good pair of vice grips.. If you have no experience with a torch, I don't recommend that you do this yourself. You can torch the bolt heads off, too, and then try heating it after, or in the exteme, drilling the bolts out. If you get a shop to do it, ask if they have done this before. The whole thing can turn into a mess real fast for the inexperienced. HTH JB

03-10-2005, 10:40 PM	#5
hobby67stepside Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 952	Do you mean it takes a 1/2 inch wrench to fit the head (a 5/16 bolt)? If so a 12 mm would be the size to try because 13 mm and 1/2 English are nearly identical. Do you really have a '72 Mustang with only 20,000 miles?

03-10-2005, 11:00 PM	#10
Rollie396 someday it will be done! Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Lloydminster,AB. Canada Posts: 1,620	There's a style of socket and combo wrench out now that grips on the flats of the head instead of the corners.I've used them and they are the cats patoot!They will NOT let go.This may be the same thing that krue mentioned,I'm not sure,but they do work. __________________ '72 C-10 Proud owner of a million new and used pieces that used to be and will once again be(god willing) a testament to the term "they don't build em like that anymore. '80 LWB 2wd beater '67 GMC long fleet (cab donor) '66 long step (parked till it's turn comes around) '65 short step (parts truck that will donate it's bed and possibly frame to the '66) '06 Grand Prix wife's car (she hardly lets me touch it) my pics

03-10-2005, 11:05 PM	#11
pritch Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Hoytsville, Utah Posts: 3,365	Another good way to do this kind of thing is get some anti-sieze compound, then heat up the bolt and the housing, and when everything is good and hot slather on the anti-seize and it will suck into the threads much like solder will when sweating together copper pipes. Then let everything cool down and then try the smaller socket thing or vise-grips if you can get to it with them. __________________ '68 Panel Project Boogie Chillin' '68 C-10 Ol' Green

03-11-2005, 12:57 AM	#12
Striker169 Car O'Holic Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Austin, Tx. Posts: 692	well I got it to work just by using a pair of the lock type plyers I didnt have enough leverdge on my 12mm and I thought wtf why not try it at least just gripped REALLY hard and turned and BAM it loosened up so I got it off, put the new starter on holy **** it starts SOO much faster and no more problum thanks for the help guys!

03-11-2005, 01:07 AM	#13
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,650	So when you put the new bolts in, they were put in with anti seize right?

03-11-2005, 01:17 AM	#14
avejoe Custer had a plan too. Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: No. California Posts: 344	72 Ford Mustang? Why would you want to fix it? __________________ 72 K15 GMC (aka Big White) Performance Rockers, Cab Corners, and Floors Fossil Fuel Glutton Neighborhood Nuisance 98 BMW 540i for Speed (Sold ) 05 Subaru Outback for mileage



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