Manifold options for L6

[shifty]

I need to replace my exhaust system. The exhaust system on my truck was rusted out so bad that the studs snapped off where the exhaust pipe meets the manifold.

Got any ideas for a new setup? I'd prefer to stay under $500. I literally need to replace everything from the manifold back.

If you need pics of my engine, this is the best I can do for now:

http://www.shifty.org/pics/68chevy/e...swap%20008.jpg

The manifold in that picture is cracked, so I'm using an old rusted one from my old engine. Pics of that are here:

http://www.shifty.org/pics/68chevy/i...0_SB%20014.jpg

The current exhaust pipe is ate to hell, so I really need everything redone from the manifold back. Any and all suggestions welcome and, as always, thanks.

And, really, I feel bad for asking so many questions around here. If any of you guys ever need any help with technical stuff (computer building or repair, computer hardware, home networking, wiring, whatever) I'll be happy to help out. I'm a pro at that stuff. I've always worked around cars and I really love that I have a chance to play with them, but I'm quickly realizing that I don't know very much about these older non-electronic engines

[stelth2002]

You can get a set of headers for that pretty easy. There are a few places that sell them. hedman makes one that can be found in LMC as an example(I wouldnt buy them from there), clifford makes a few different ones. I think you should be easily be able to do the exahust for 500 or less and have a very plesent increase in power with it.

You want to make sure that you get headers that are compatible with the stock intake. They will say if are or not. I would also get some good locking bolts.

Perrtty engine you have there.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by stelth2002

You want to make sure that you get headers that are compatible with the stock intake. They will say if are or not. I would also get some good locking bolts.

Perrtty engine you have there.

Thanks for the compliment - can't wait to fire it up for the "first" time.

I'd like to stud out the manifold and intake entirely. The intake and manifold are bolted together on this one - do you know if anyone makes a custom setup where they're a little more separated?

Now that you mention it, I'd just like to get a new manifold, intake and exhaust. It'll cost more than $500, I'm sure, but that combined with a chromed valve cover ($30 at Year One in Braselton, GA) would do wonders to dress up the engine compartment.

[MOTHERTRUCKERS]

Chrome 6 cyl valve covers are on ebay for 16-26.00. If you want to go 4 barrel i have a 390 cfm on a used kinda polished Offenhauser aluminum intake (needs finished polish) and new Dynamax headers 450.00 including shipping or a stock 250 intake/exhaust never split for 100.00 including shipping. If you want pics email me motrucker@prodigy.net

[shifty]

I shot you an email, MT. Curious about the stock intake/exhaust. I kinda want to do separate units, but I'm willing to compromise.

[Palf70Step]

Shifty I am told you can split them and run say a stock intake with headers. They come aprt easily. Matter of fact the gaskets set includes a new gasket for between the two. One thing to remember if your's is going to be a daily driver, if you seperate the exhaust/intake you loose your heat source. Most aftermarket intakes have a way to plump your water through there for heat. I have a set of headers for my 6 and at least now plan on using the stock intake, but mine is not a daily driver and I am in the south so cold bloodedness is not a major factor.

MY 82 (250 6 also) runs stock exhaust except I have a cheapo glass pack instead of the the stock muffler. Everything else is stock. It sounds Ok and works fine and was cheap.

[chevyfarmer]

I had a 69 c-10 with a 250ci I-6 that I put Clifford split headers on. You can use your stock intake with this setup. These fit very well and sounded great. My only complaint was they hung pretty low and would have been a clearance issue on a lowered truck. Good Luck.

[shifty]

I emailed Mothertruckers about his stock setup he's selling @ $100.

What is safe to coat these with? I'd like to chrome plate, powder coat or spray them, but I think the heat is a factor in whether the stuff will stay on.

[Palf70Step]

I think the stuff that seems to hold up best is the POR engine/heat paint, from what I have herad here and other boards. I haven't used it yet, but my Walmart special paint is flaking off the exhaust, so I'll probaly redo mine when I pull it to put on the headers

[70 shorty]

Hey shifty, Mine is a 250 with a Clifford intake, Holley 390 and a split header. It runs to dual mufflers and the pipes run out on a 45 degree angle just in front of the rear tires. I really like this setup, especially on a stepside. My 250 also has a bigger cam, ported head and it runnig 9 to 1 compression, so for a 6, it moves pretty good. Feel free to contact me with quesitons. BTW, I've got a chrome valve cover on mine, and a chrome air cleaner.

[shifty]

palf70step -how would I lose my heat source? heat comes from water being pushed through your heater coil from the water pump. Intake and Exhaust sdon't have much to do with heat - or am I misunderstanding what you're saying?

[Gary Lee]

I need to replace my exhaust system. The exhaust system on my truck was rusted out so bad that the studs snapped off where the exhaust pipe meets the manifold.

Got any ideas for a new setup? I'd prefer to stay under $500. I literally need to replace everything from the manifold back.
Pacestter headers

And I know a shop that does good exhaust work, I probably would like magnaflows on a toofitty

[Fred T]

As far as finishes, even the POR high temp paint will rust through after a while. One guy locally had his headers powder coated with a hi-temp finish. Haven't heard how it's held up. The VHT line of hi-temp paint is supposed to be one of the best for rattle cans.

[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by shifty

palf70step -how would I lose my heat source? heat comes from water being pushed through your heater coil from the water pump. Intake and Exhaust sdon't have much to do with heat - or am I misunderstanding what you're saying?

Sorry my bad explanation. The exhaust manifold heats the carb area of the intake. Helps with warmup and emissions too I guess. If you use header/stock intake manifold you no longer have that exhaust heat to warm your intake, thus your carb will be running in a cold state longer and be a little tempermental. You also loose the heat source for your automatic choke (if you have one).

[shifty]

Here -

I hope I am saving someone time by doing the legwork with this stuff.

I ran down a few part numbers for popular brands of exhaust manifolds for 67-72 trucks using the inline 6 230/250/292. I believe these will work on any of the 67-72's with those engine sizes. I could be wrong, so be sure to check. I was specifically checking for a 1968 6cyl/4.1L/250, so ...


Hedman Headers: 69310 or 69316 (HED-69310 @ summitracing.com)
Holley Flowtech: 11500FLT (non-ceramic) or 31500FLT (ceramic)
Clifford Headers: 52-0768 (full size) or 52-0011 (shorties)
Pace Setter: 70-1204 for painted/shorties or 72C1204 for ceramic/fullsize (PSM-70-1204, PSM-72C1204 @ summitracing.com)

Seems like it took forever to find this stuff.

[shifty]

I almost forgot - Dynomax actually makes some pretty inexpensive headers. I've found them for ~ $150 and they seem to include all hardware and gaskets needed. They're painted black, but ... hey, whatever

[MOTHERTRUCKERS]

In my opinion the Dynamax header is the best quality for the money wheather it be 6cyl small block or big block in 67-72 trucks, I have sold and used over 200 sets in the last 10 years and have never recieved one complaint on quality or fit. We get our performance parts from the same company Summit and Jegs get them from. Looking for a new 670 street avenger holley carb we are 40.00 under them including shipping.

[68haywagon]

Hey Ed.
Over the summer I plan on pulling my 250 to clean it up. I was thinkin about putting some headers and an intake with either a 2 or 4 bbl carb . Do you normally stock them? I would definitely buy from you again if you do. I wouldn't be able to purchase them for a couple of months. I was just curious.

Thanks,
Mike

[MOTHERTRUCKERS]

It depends on the parts you need, most of it comes from the Michigan warehouse and ships faster and less shipping cost than we can here in Florida. Offenhauser is a problem sometimes so i try to order more than i need at 1 time, Offy only makes the intakes and valve covers once a year for inlines and they only make enough to cover the orders.

[Tx Firefighter]

Guys, please go over here and check out this guy's website.

http://www.inliners.org/Advertisers/kkk_ad2.html

his home page: http://www.inliners.org/Advertisers/kkk_ad1.html

The guy's name is Kansas Kustoms. For 185 bucks, he'll split your factory manifold, add an extra outlet for true dual exhausts, Jet-Hot coat it, and ship it back to you.

I've been talking with him back and forth, and he offers about a week turnaround. He's built them for our trucks too.

That's only a few bucks higher than a set of tube headers. For me, it's a much better deal. The factory manifold will seal more reliably than tube headers and it still offers manifold heat, which in my opinion is vital on an inline engine.

[shifty]

One problem, Tex: My factory manifold is SHOT.

[68haywagon]

Yea I found a small crack and leak. Thats why I was gonna replace stuff when I pull the motor. But I might contact that guy anyway to see what he thinks. This won't be for another month or two yet.

Thanks for the links and info though.

Mike

[shifty]

Mines more than a crack - it looks like a gash. I have two perfect intakes and two shot exhausts. One exhaust is rust-free and cracked and the other is rusted (it's the original unit), the flange bolts are frozen and broken off and it's just generally a POS.

I got a bunch of offers for exhaust manifolds from members and vendors, but most of 'em were pretty rusted up and needing some TLC. If I'm going to spend $100 on an exhaust manifold, I don't want to send it off for another $165 to get it looking nice and coated, split, etc.

Too bad that guy doesn't just sell split a split stock manifold. I'd give him $200 for one.

[Dano69c10]

Check out this place. Dano

http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/

[chevybill]

Originally Posted by MOTHERTRUCKERS

In my opinion the Dynamax header is the best quality for the money wheather it be 6cyl small block or big block in 67-72 trucks, I have sold and used over 200 sets in the last 10 years and have never recieved one complaint on quality or fit. We get our performance parts from the same company Summit and Jegs get them from. Looking for a new 670 street avenger holley carb we are 40.00 under them including shipping.

How much total would an intake, carb and dynomax headers cost for a 250 6 cylinder? I have dynomax ceramic coated header on my vette and have been very pleased with them. Shipped to 38916.

Thanks