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Old 03-24-2005, 01:07 PM   #1
Smokie55
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Oi Pan gasket?? help

I am trying to change the oil pan gasket on my 72 Blazer. It has a 400 sbc and 6" lift with 3" body lift. Sitting on 40" tires.

this is becomeing a more and more dangerous change out than I thought. I am having trouble lifting the motor. My standard 3ton jack won't go high enough. So i place a block and jack stand on top of it. that kind of worked. Kicked out once on me. then my second attempt the Dist. hit the firewall. Even with the body lift. And it still didn't get high enough to pull the pan out.

I plan to pull the dist. and get a second jack and more jack stands for safety. A hoist won't clear my grill. Does anyone have any help they can offer. maybe and easier way. I have never had so much trouble before in my life. What a PIA.

BTW I plan to do a one piece gasket, so I won't have any leaks soon.
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:13 PM   #2
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Do you have anything above you that you can hook a come-along to? You could pull the hood, and then hook a come-along to something sturdy above you that you won't end up pulling down onto your truck. Winch the engine up however far you need, and then add a safety chain in case the come-along pukes out on you.
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:19 PM   #3
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Could a guy unbolt the crossmember under the motor while you have it lifted up?
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Old 03-24-2005, 09:47 PM   #4
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Can you put smaller tires on the front so your engine hoist can clear your grill?
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Old 03-24-2005, 10:07 PM   #5
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I think I would try the smaller tires trick...
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Old 03-25-2005, 11:11 AM   #6
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Great suggestion on changeing the tires. i have a buddy who has a set of stock small wheels that should fit. I will call him and see what I can do.

I got the motor high enough to do a pan gasket. But it would have to be on eof those 4 piece style. And those always leak on me. Plus i want to pull the pan now and make sure there is no RTV in it. there was alot around the inside lip of the pan and I don't want it to clog the pick-up.

thanks for the ideas.

BTW i have one tree in my yard and no way would i trust it to hold a come along or hoist. I think I will try the tires first.

thanks again guys and gals.
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1955 Short Step "Sweet Pea" - Family heirloom.
1969 Suburban "Otis" - 396/TH400 - Dallas Ambulance -
1972 K5 blazer "Rusty" - 400/TH350/NP205 - Yeah it's big alright!!
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Old 03-25-2005, 01:54 PM   #7
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I have to do this to my K5 before it is driveable as it looks like the rear main seal must be in very bad shape. I am considering trying to remove the engine crossmember but I know from my K20 that they are kind of stubborn and difficult to move forward as at some point it will contact the inside of the frame and won't move any more forwad. It may not be possible to tilt it enough to get it out even with the towers unbolted.
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Old 03-25-2005, 03:25 PM   #8
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let the air out of your tires and try the hoist again
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Old 03-28-2005, 04:30 PM   #9
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When I was a kid my Dad and I pulled an inline 6 from a jag. We were doing it in our basement garage, and we had to let the air out of the tires (and have 3 guys sit on the bumper) before we could get the engine over the grill

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Old 03-28-2005, 06:01 PM   #10
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When I did mine in my 72 K5 I used a Harbor Freight Port-A-Power hydraulic ram to lift the front of the engine. My floor jack did the rolling/kick out thing too. I removed the dizzy, but found that my headers just started hitting the firewall when the oil pan was close to coming out. I ended up lust giving the port-a-power two more pumps, and that pan came out.

Before re-assembly, I reshaped the oil pan slightly with a ball-peen hammer to help it clear the cross member better, and allow me to drop and reinstall it without having to shove the engine through the firewall. It is a minor change, like 1/8 inch depression in pan where the cross member hits it. Man what a difference!
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Old 03-29-2005, 10:36 AM   #11
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Follow up.

I ended up hoisting the front of the motor. Pulling the distibutor, And the valve covers still hit the firewall. Pulled all the front cross member bolts and pulled the three sections of the cross member out. Then the pan literally dropped right out. I am glad I stuck with it and pulled it. the pickup on the oil pump was clogged pretty bad. Cleaned it all and installed the fel-pro one piece pan gasket. that is well worth the money to me. it shouldn't leak for a long time.

Got it all back together last night using new grade 8 bolts and hardware.

Job done. Total will be about 4 hours of hard work to change the pan gasket. but it's done now.

BTW I didn't have to let the air out of the Mickeys or switch tires. Cool!!
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1955 Short Step "Sweet Pea" - Family heirloom.
1969 Suburban "Otis" - 396/TH400 - Dallas Ambulance -
1972 K5 blazer "Rusty" - 400/TH350/NP205 - Yeah it's big alright!!
- Founding Member of Southern Bowties Club -
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Old 03-29-2005, 11:51 AM   #12
71swb4x4
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Glad to hear you got it done!!
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Old 03-29-2005, 12:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokie55
BTW I didn't have to let the air out of the Mickeys or switch tires. Cool!!
that surprises me. how?

.... glad ya got 'er done!
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Old 03-29-2005, 12:58 PM   #14
Smokie55
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It was close Justin, but I raised the hoist boom right over the radiator. Bolted to the front two intake bolts and lifted that sucker till the valve covers bumped the firewall.

I was amazed I didn't have to let the air out.
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1955 Short Step "Sweet Pea" - Family heirloom.
1969 Suburban "Otis" - 396/TH400 - Dallas Ambulance -
1972 K5 blazer "Rusty" - 400/TH350/NP205 - Yeah it's big alright!!
- Founding Member of Southern Bowties Club -
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