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06-06-2002, 07:06 AM | #1 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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How difficult to replace ball joints?
Have a bad upper ball joint on passenger side. I know the hub and spindle need to be removed to pull the axle. After that any hints to make removing the ball joints go smooth? Should I do both sides? I know I need to do both(upper/lower) on one side. Thanks,
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
06-06-2002, 10:38 AM | #2 |
Suburbans RULE!
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Clinton, IA 52732
Posts: 689
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Definately buy or rent a ball joint press. I have done ball joints with and without a press. Lets just say it took about 11 hours to do both sides without and 3 hours with the press. The part that sucks to most is that you have to take off so much stuff to get to them. Good Luck
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--Ben 71 GMC Suburban 4X4 The "Beast" 388 CID Stroker, TH350, NP205, 8-lug D44, 14BFF w/ Detroit, 4.10:1 gears, 4-Wheel Disks 4" Lift, 35" MT/R's. |
06-06-2002, 03:54 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Sturgeon Bay , WI USA
Posts: 375
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I usually use a pickle fork and a BFH to get them off. They seem to go in and out fairly easily, for me that is.
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06-07-2002, 10:27 AM | #4 |
Suburbans RULE!
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Clinton, IA 52732
Posts: 689
|
Hmm.....interesting.....I've never seen anyone use a pickle fork on ball joints.......maybe tie rod ends but never ball joints on a 4X4.
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--Ben 71 GMC Suburban 4X4 The "Beast" 388 CID Stroker, TH350, NP205, 8-lug D44, 14BFF w/ Detroit, 4.10:1 gears, 4-Wheel Disks 4" Lift, 35" MT/R's. |
06-07-2002, 12:02 PM | #5 |
SKINNY TIRES RULE!
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 11,038
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I tried changeing the ball joint on the drivers side with no luck. The ball joint is loose and spins freely so I can't get the nut off. I gave up and checked into having them done. Prices ranged from $149 per side to $749 for both. I guess I'll try a little harder!
This discussion came up on CK5 a while back. There were several good sugestions. Here is the link to the discussion.: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthr...ts&Main=394691
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bouncytruck 1972 K5 The Hauler 1994 K1500 Suburban The Daily2010 Kia Soul Wife's Ride2014 Fiat 500L |
06-07-2002, 07:21 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Sturgeon Bay , WI USA
Posts: 375
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I think I got a bit mixed up. I kinda meant one of those forks that you hit with a hammer not exactly a pickle fork, I got a set of two of them and supposedly one of them can be used for ball joints...
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08-09-2002, 10:06 PM | #7 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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Finally got around to doing it....
Found the time to replace my right side ball joints. Had a good day at work so I hoped it would carry over to the evening. Took about 2 hours to have the steering knuckle sitting on my garage floor. Could not ask for anything better, everything was tight but I was using a 3/4 inch drive socket set, ratchet handle is 20" long. Made the job easy. Now I just have to go buy the ball joints(from Napa) and find a shop to press the old ones out and the new ones in.
__________________
1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
08-10-2002, 03:56 PM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: SE NM
Posts: 769
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Nows a good time to do crossover steering
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The more I learn about women, the more I love my truck. |
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