03-31-2005, 08:58 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Williston, ND
Posts: 2,999
|
Big Block in a 4wd
How hard is it to put a big block(396) in a 69 shortbox 4wd? I am thinking about buying one, but I want to put my big block in it. Thanks for any help.
|
03-31-2005, 09:35 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: shafer,mn,usa
Posts: 316
|
I am in the prosses, and the guys on this board have helped allot. I beleave with the stock valve covers and stock ignition it will fit tight (not toatally sure). other wise ,first you need the truck oil pan and you can move your motor ,trani,and transfer case forword 2 inches.
I was told that if you have a lift you dont have to do anything with your front drive shaft. just the back. or you can cut out your fire wall and leave the motor.
__________________
70 chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 402ci crewcab 3/4ton 94 gmc 1 ton dually crewcab 454ci 99 suburban 5.7 2001 500cc ski-doo mxz 95 500cc ski doo fan 650 bombardiar 4 wheeler |
03-31-2005, 10:17 PM | #3 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: N.C. high country
Posts: 6,107
|
I had a 454 in my 69 CST/20 and had to dimple the firewall on the pass side pretty good,and you had a time getting the valve covers off it. And if you run BB headers and a 4 spd,you will need 73 -up clutch linkage as the header foot-notes says,It worked fine,but my 65 Biscayne 4 spd was crying for a Big block.
|
04-01-2005, 08:10 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Iowa
Posts: 119
|
[copied, edited, and pasted from a previous thread]
When I swapped mine (396 in Blazer), I moved the engine/trans/T-case forward 1". Its still pretty tight, but I can get the distributor out, and the (short) valve covers off w/o pulling engine Although I do have to take off the rotor, before I can get the distributor out!! (NO room for HEI, either) I had to cut down the radiator shroud, and take a small (1/4" deep) notch out of the top of the pass. side frame rail to clear the headers. (Heddman #69110) The top ear of the frame bulged out there anyway, so if the engine was in stock location, it may have been OK. Also could have done a MAJOR hammer job on the header tube. Headers required minor dimpling here and there, as it was. BUT, I replaced the headers last year, and it only took about a half hour, so its a REALLY Easy header install. If I had left the engine in stock location, there would have been a helluva time trying to connect exhaust to the collectors, tho. As it is, the collectors are close to the trans x-member, and exhaust shop could not bend tube, that tight. I used 180 degree bends, available from header companies, to fab some tight 'S' tubes. Also had to totally refab the clutch linkage, but part of that was due to the big block not having a hole, in the same place as the 350, for the engine side clutch cross shaft ball. Stock small block mounts bolted to the big block, IIRC, tho I would probably suggest new ones. I ordered new BBC ones, and when they arrived they were the late-model 'spool-type', so I had to use the old ones, from the 350(time issues) Id try to keep the forwards engine relocation to a minimum, as these things are light in the back, anyway. (Mine's useless in 2WD on snow and ice) Have fun!! A good big block is a blast!! -Marty Last edited by DaHateTank; 04-01-2005 at 08:16 PM. |
Bookmarks |
|
|