Using heavy oil

[Southpa]

I've been using 20W50 in my truck for so long I can't remember. OK, I was in Cdn Tire yesterday just to buy some oil and a filter and I asked the guy what brand of oil he prefers. Now this guy works in the automotive service dept. and should know better. First off, he says pretty much one brand is as good as another and I didn't bother getting into that discussion. I noticed that some brands didn't carry 20W50 in the big 4 L. jugs and remarked on that. Automatically, because I use 20W50, he assumes my engine is leaking! I sure hope that isn't the advice he gives everyone with oil leaks, yeah, just put in heavier oil. If my engine is leaking I'm darn well gonna fix the leak first. I told him I only use 20W50 because of the moderate climate we live in, ie. very little freezing temperatures and my old "original" engine with its variety of worn parts seems to run smoother and stays cooler.

BTW, I bought the Motomaster Formula 1 oil. Usually I get a 4 L. jug and one additional litre. They finally got around to packaging the oil in 4.4L jugs, just perfect for the small block V8. I usually dump in the big jug and run the engine to circulate the oil, let it settle, then top off the rest. I was pleasantly surprised to find the oil level right on the mark.

[Palf70Step]

I run 20/50 (castrol) also in my my 70 and 96. Like you it's not because of leaks, but just because that is always what I have run in the warmer climates. I have heard the newer engine (like my 96) should use the lighter weight because th oil passages are smaller. I don't know, but the mechanice that did the intake gasket replacement on m6 96's 350 said that is what he uses and prefers. Since that is what I have pretty much aklways used, I kept it up. My wife's Pontyrat has free dealer oil changes, so whatever they use is what it gets.

[screamin_c102]

I run 10-40 in Screamin and cringe when I pour the 5w-20 in the wife's Focus.

A lot of the ex-Taco Bell employees that now earn a living passing auto-parts instead of burritos over a counter have absolutely no clue as to how or even why a motor runs, let alone what viscosity and flow are.


I managed an Auto Zone in Augusta Georgia, and I'll tell ya theres very slim pickin's when it comes to automotively inclined applicants.

[68 Stepside]

Screamin, I hear you on the 5w-20! That's what my 03 LX Stang takes

In everything else I try to use at least 15w40 when I can. The 406 will be getting a healthy dose of 20w50 once I feel it's fully broken in.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

I have always used 10w -30 I don't know why really maybe cause my dad always used it and old habits are hard to break??

[WRMZ71]

I use 20W-50 Valvoline in mine all the time for the same reason of the temperate climate thing. Currently got 20W-50 Catrol in there though cause I needed to change the oil and the place didn't have darn valvoline. I've heard from reliable sources that the top 3 are valvoline, castrol, and Kendall. Thats opening up a can of worms in here though cause whoever you talk to its there own personal taste but the only one i will agree on that blows is Pennzoil.

[sneakysnake]

I prefer 10-40 not to thick in the winter and doesnt thin out in the summer heat.most of your parts are oiled though journals but pistons,rings,wrist pins use the sling off the crank so a heavy oil when its cold wont sling very well and a thin oil in the heat of summer may not stay and provide lubrication,so at best use a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.

[Lemield]

Originally Posted by screamin_c10

A lot of the ex-Taco Bell employees that now earn a living passing auto-parts instead of burritos over a counter have absolutely no clue as to how or even why a motor runs, let alone what viscosity and flow are.


I managed an Auto Zone in Augusta Georgia, and I'll tell ya theres very slim pickin's when it comes to automotively inclined applicants.

I agree. It's tough to find anyone that knows too much in the chain stores. Many years ago, I worked in an independent store in Denver and we did pretty well. It was before the days of computers so we all had to know how to read.

One of our favorite slow time activities was to call Checker Auto Parts and ask the person on the phone to look up a part number for a lower radiator hose for a 1966 VW Beetle!

[busterwivell]

Turn signal fluid, anyone? I've always run 20w50 Valvoline. My engines don't leak (well, ok, the 305 in the Monte Carlo SS with 225K does, a little). I change oil the weekend seasons change in all 3 of my toys, that's the easy way for an old fart like me to remember. Course, I've always run Fram filters, too, and recently read here what a no-no that is. Changed valve cover gaskets on the SS recently and still looks like it just came from the machine shop.

[blazerparts]

How about a new set of muffler bearings? 10-30 in the winter, 10-40 in the summer\

[LUV2XCLR8]

99 Trailblazer - 10 W 30 Valvoline

70 "Blacky" - 20 W 50 Can't Remember Brand

67 "Race Truck" - VR50 Valvoline Racing

72 "GQ" - Not Changed Yet (Will Be Mobil 1)

[screamin_c102]

My favorite is a spray can of plaid paint.

[rgray71]

I need to know if you guy's can mix me up a batch of off clear paint for my truck? I run 20/50 in my monte ss and 15/40 in me 71 gmc..

[68gmcdually]

I run 20W50 Kendall with a bottle of LUCAS heavy duty oil stabilizer in both of my 4.3 litres in the summer and 15W40 Kendall in them in the winter.

The '68 when it is done is going to run 20W50 with a bottle of Lucas, plus the differential and the transmission have a quart of Lucas in them as well.

[WRMZ71]

Man that lucas is thick as mollassess syrup but it sure does work good.

[special-K]

The guy at Auto Zone said once you`ve run oil through the motor for 30years,you don`t need oil anymore.Should I get a second opinion?I though he knew what he was talking about.He had an Auto Zone shirt and he drove a car.

[Robert1970C20rstbukt]

I was using 10W-40 but I went with 20W-50 because the engine in my truck has started to develop a loud knock when it's cold. Since I changed it out with the 20W50 the knock hasn't been as loud as it used to be and when it warms up you can't even hear it.

[67_C-30]

I did not write this, but this is what most professional engine builders believe.

...So don't shoot the messenger if you do not agree!!


Quote:

"Many people assume that a high viscosity oil is a sign of high performance. I’ve heard many times, from people, that they use a high viscosity oil (something like 20W-50) in their car because they wanted “extra protection�, or because they “push it hard�. There's a sign of someone that doesn't know jack about engines, hydraulics, or thermal kenetics. Your run-of-the-mill street engine doesn't like oil heavier then what it was origionally designed for.

Here’s something to think about. You’re engine moves oil with a pump, obviously. What if you put water in there, instead of oil? It would pump the water extremely freely. The water would be sure to pass through every orifice, and get into every little spot in the engine it was supposed to. Granted the engine wouldn’t be getting very lubricated; but stick with me here, I'm going places with this. Now do it with honey. Honey has a very high viscosity. It wouldn’t get to half the places it should. Small oil orifices, and mating surfaces wouldn’t let the honey in. Therefore the parts would run dry. Which would you rather have? A thick oil that doesn’t go anywhere, or a thin oil that goes everywhere? Now obviously you wouldn't run an engine on honey or water. But people don't think straight sometimes. Extra-heavy oils have a hard time navigating around in engines that aren't designed to handle them.

I brought that up because alot of people don't realize that engines are designed for specific viscosity oils. Even more today then ever. There's a reason why the manufacturer of your engine did NOT recommend 20W-50 oil. As engines get smaller and more efficient, they incorporate more engineered efficiency. Lightweight oils are more efficent than heavier oils, in the sense that the cohesive friction is less. The oil pump pushes them easier, and crank slings through them easier, and parts slide by themselves easier. All that relates to less internal parasitic power loss from component friction. I can’t say it enough. ENGINES ARE DESIGNED TO ACCEPT SPECIFIC WEIGHT OILS. There are small holes and pathways all over the place that oil needs to pass through. If the oil’s viscosity is too high, the oil will not pass through it. There are clearances between mating parts that are less than .001� thick, that require oil to penetrate. Obviously that's not very big. Do you think honey will pass through that?

Also you’re pump doesn’t want to pump any harder than it has too. A thick oil puts a lot of strain on the pump, not to mention the engine’s seals. Using too high of a viscosity causes the oil pressure to increase, since the pump displaces a fixed volume. Case in point? The engine running with honey would have a much higher oil pressure than the one running on water. Saying, “hey cool my oil pressure came way up� is not necessarily a good thing. Oil pressure should be at about 20psi at idle to about 50psi at speed. 70psi is way high. You better have some A+ seals to hold that back. Even $40,000, 800hp, race engines only have about 60psi at speed. You’re rat-box 1984 Pontiac doesn’t want 70psi (you know who you are). Trust me on that.

Now don’t get me wrong. If you’re engine is old, tired, and has a lot of clearance, you might want to run the thicker oil. But trust me on this. Just because you drive your 4.3L S-10 Blazer like a dickhead; thinkin' you're Dale Earnhearts Jr.'s next replacement doesn't require you to run 20W-50. It isn’t helping matters any. If anything you're doing more damage to you're engine. Unless you plan on maintaining 25,000rpm for the duration of the trip to the grocery store, it’s not necessary. The heavier oil is starving tight clearance parts of lubrication. Use what the engine manufacturer recommends; unless you have a good reason not to. Because you drive like an ass is not a good reason. So do your self, and society a favor. Stop driving like a moron, and put the right oil in it. Of course, by now you've might have ruined enough surface area on the parts to require the heavier oil."

[86k10]

I guess i'll be the different one of the bunch, I use 5-30 year round and we have both extremes here. Thick oils fine if your engines worn out, but for a good healthy engine, nothing wrong with the lower weights. I always figure thinner oil can get into places and lube that the heavy stuff will not especially if you have close piston to wall clearance and main and rod bearings that aren't to wide either. And i'll judge what weight I am going to run by the PSI it runs hot in the summer going road speed. And just an example the old 74 on the hottest day you can imagine here runs around 50 PSI on the road with a standard oil pump and 5-30 oil. I see no reason for a thicker oil but hey like they say to each his own.

[VetteVet]

Here is a pretty good explanation from Blackstone labs on oil viscosity


http://www.blackstone-labs.com/oil_viscosity.html

VetteVet

[68LSS1]

Who ever wrote what 67 C-30 posted is right. Valvoline, Castrol and Kendall as the top three? Guys still running Fram filters. Anybody running 20w/50 ever done a oil analysis? Anybody on hear ever done a oil analysis? Just a suggestion, run some synthetic, a good rated filter (doesn't have to be expensive), do some analysis so your not changing it all the time and spend some time on Bobistheoilguy.com Why is it that we spend tons of money on a truck, build a engine and look for every ounce of fuel economy and every 1/4% horsepower but we just won't give up we we were taught or what we always do no matter how much harm we actually could be doing when it comes to oil and filters?
But don't take it from me. Do a little research. The same oil can actually perform differently in different engines. But to say something like oil works without a analysis (multiple analysis actually) is nothing more than wishing. Yeah I can see it coming now. My daddy's been running (insert favorite oil here) in it for 26 years. Never had any problems with it. Or I change it every 3,000 so it doesn't matter what I run. Yes, there are occasions and uses for such oils. But using oil as a band-aid usually results in bigger problems down the road. Stop knocking modern technology. Not all of it's bad.
For the record my oil choice is Redline usually in a 10W/30 with a NAPA GOLD filter. But I did research it and did have some oil analysis done. And it was confusing at first but it didn't take long to figure it out. Plus it's looking like I'll be able to go almost 8-10k between oil changes on the daily driver (will probably change filter at 5k because I too hate letting some things go).

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by 68LSS1

Who ever wrote what 67 C-30 posted is right. Valvoline, Castrol and Kendall as the top three? Guys still running Fram filters. Anybody running 20w/50 ever done a oil analysis? Anybody on hear ever done a oil analysis? Just a suggestion, run some synthetic, a good rated filter (doesn't have to be expensive), do some analysis so your not changing it all the time and spend some time on Bobistheoilguy.com Why is it that we spend tons of money on a truck, build a engine and look for every ounce of fuel economy and every 1/4% horsepower but we just won't give up we we were taught or what we always do no matter how much harm we actually could be doing when it comes to oil and filters?
But don't take it from me. Do a little research. The same oil can actually perform differently in different engines. But to say something like oil works without a analysis (multiple analysis actually) is nothing more than wishing. Yeah I can see it coming now. My daddy's been running (insert favorite oil here) in it for 26 years. Never had any problems with it. Or I change it every 3,000 so it doesn't matter what I run. Yes, there are occasions and uses for such oils. But using oil as a band-aid usually results in bigger problems down the road. Stop knocking modern technology. Not all of it's bad.
For the record my oil choice is Redline usually in a 10W/30 with a NAPA GOLD filter. But I did research it and did have some oil analysis done. And it was confusing at first but it didn't take long to figure it out. Plus it's looking like I'll be able to go almost 8-10k between oil changes on the daily driver (will probably change filter at 5k because I too hate letting some things go).

The NAPA GOLD filter is made by Wix, which is what I use. Wix filters consistantly out-perform most every other filter including K&N when independantly tested.

[68LSS1]

The whole who makes what oil filter is hard to keep up with as it changes. Some that I can remember (off the top of my head so I may be off a little): Amsoil and Hastings filters are made by Baldwin. Same parts but the Amsoil filters have better filtering media. Champion Laboratories makes filters for the Car & Driver (disc?), Lee, Lee Max, STP, Deutsch, Champ, Autozone brand, Supertech and Mighty. The Mobil and Supertech usually get good marks. The STP for the money is good (cheaper but better than Fram). Allied Signal makes the Fram junk which includes Pennzoil and Quaker State. The new Fram X2 looks like it is going to be a very good filter except for that there is better filters for cheaper than the average $10 a filter cost (the X2 is the new extended change filter that a lot of the manufactures are coming out with). Motorcraft has used Purolator and Champion Labs in the past, not sure what they use now as I don't use them in mine. Purolator makes the PowerFlo, Proline, Premium Plus, Pure One and Advance Auto brand. DANA owns Wix who makes the Carquest brand, many OEM and NAPA Gold. Supposedly the NAPA Silver are now also made Wix but in the past they were made by the cheapest bidder. The Wix filters are very good filtration vs flow and are a great bargain price wise.

[chevybill]

Who makes the K and N oil filters?

[john_doe]

What did the GM say to run in the 67-72 Chevy/GMC trucks when they were new? Maybe something to consider?