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06-08-2002, 04:19 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 145
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steering wheel removal
Got a different steering wheel for the 72. Got the nut and ring off fine. Using a puller but the wheel won't come off the shaft. Sprayed some lubricating stuff on the shaft but still no movement.
Any suggestions or do I just wait until tomorrow morning and let the lubricating stuff work??? Thanks, Pat
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72 Chevy Custom 10 Deluxe (78K mi.) 95 Nissan Maxima (195K mi.) 73 VW Beetle (owned since 78; 96K miles) Engine rebuild by me done! 73 VW Super Beetle -New to me- Bought from original owner! 84 Honda Nighthawk (2500 mi.) I know too much foreign stuff; I've owned American too and they lasted just as long. |
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06-08-2002, 04:25 PM
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3,074
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They're tough, but I have always got them off with just the steering wheel puller.
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71 Chevy CST Long Fleet 350/350/3.07 leaf rear. |
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06-08-2002, 04:29 PM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 145
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I'm pretty sure this is the original steering wheel and has NEVER been off of this truck.
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72 Chevy Custom 10 Deluxe (78K mi.) 95 Nissan Maxima (195K mi.) 73 VW Beetle (owned since 78; 96K miles) Engine rebuild by me done! 73 VW Super Beetle -New to me- Bought from original owner! 84 Honda Nighthawk (2500 mi.) I know too much foreign stuff; I've owned American too and they lasted just as long. |
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06-08-2002, 04:32 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: escondido, ca 92026
Posts: 1,222
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not sure what you mean by "won't come off".... if you're using the type of puller that bolts into the wheel where the cup bolts in, and has a center bolt that pushes on the steering shaft, then it really can't refuse to come off if you keep turning the center bolt... if the center bolt really get tough to turn, tapping the top of it with a hammer while turning will loosen the wheel in most cases... good luck
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'72 short step, 350, 700R4, tilt, ps, pdb, a/c, lowered coils, etc., other work in progress... San Diego, CA 72 Stepside Project |
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06-08-2002, 04:54 PM
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#5 |
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its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
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Some times, you have to smack the puller with a small hammer to pop it loose.
When the press bolt (the center one) is real tight, just rap it once or twice with a small hammer, it'll pop off. |
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06-08-2002, 05:56 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Frisco, Tx, USA
Posts: 606
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Just make sure the outer bolts are even with a good bite on the wheel, and keep on cranking. It'll come off. Pulled an original that hadn't been of in 30 yrs with no problems.
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http://home.comcast.net/~r.landrum/w...tos.html-.html '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades. |
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06-08-2002, 06:26 PM
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#7 |
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GYRO GEARLOOSE
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Nevada City, CAEverett, WA
Posts: 361
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I have found this type works best, no shaft to come off center. Stainless steel, 1/4" thick, uses steerimg shaft itself for leverage.
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Nevada City, CA Everett, Washington 57 3/4 rat, 235, 3spd 66 C-10 Panel, SWB. 350 from '68, 200R4 tranny, 3.07 rear ratio, restoring 68 C10 LWB 350 4spd, 4.56 rear dump runner 82 Camaro, 305, THM-200-R4 84 Monte Carlo 305 TH350, land tuna 85 Tercel SW, snow runner DISGRACED OUTLAW MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB |
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