Somethin Really bad just happened - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Blue85 · 04-09-2005, 04:52 PM

I was rippin down the highway in my shortbox and a frost plug blew out of the block and pumped all of my antifreeze out by the time i looked at the temp gauge(aftermarket) it was at like 250 F, you guys think this was high enough temp to ruin the engine? it wasn't really hot underneath when i popped the hood and the motor was still running fine when i shut it down, just hope i didn't cook the rings.

TugOwar · 04-09-2005, 05:07 PM

I wouldn't think the engine is hurt at all, unless it ran quite a long time at that temp. 250 isn't that high really. I threw a belt on my old truck once and it got that hot or hotter before I noticed. I installed the spare belt and she purred right on down the road.

barn9 · 04-09-2005, 05:22 PM

I would think you are OK if you didn't run it too long. Hopefully it's a fix and go for ya.

krue · 04-09-2005, 05:36 PM

Should be alright. Newer engines with aluminum heads can't take the heat but the old cast iron engines can usually take it.

Alex Hayley · 04-09-2005, 10:04 PM

What can one do to ensure the frost plugs do not pop out of the block?

krue · 04-09-2005, 10:17 PM

Tap them and put pipe plugs in.

LUV2XCLR8 · 04-09-2005, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krue

Tap them and put pipe plugs in.

SOUNDS LIKE A

krue · 04-09-2005, 10:32 PM

I don't know where I heard of it, probably on here somewhere.

ed455 · 04-09-2005, 10:33 PM

A lot of racers pin them.

BurnoutNova · 04-09-2005, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex Hayley

What can one do to ensure the frost plugs do not pop out of the block?

i know the common name is frost plug, or freeze plug... but has anyone ever seen one actully pop out when the water in the block freezes?

i thought i heard somwhere there actully meant for removing the sand from the casting process when the blocks are made... has anyone else ever heard that?

patrick66 · 04-09-2005, 10:54 PM

You want them to pop on a driver! They are there to keep the block from cracking if the coolant freezes (hence the term "freeze plug"). If you tap the hole and put in a pipe nut, you're certainly asking for trouble down the road somewhere. Plus, when the truck is hot, it'll blow the plug out, in many cases, instead of the top tank on your radiator.

Put in a new freezr plug and drive on! If you keep the coolant good in your engine, you won't have the corrosion that the plugs get, too, and that weakens them. Brass plugs are the best way to go. No rust corrosion, and they'll still do the job they're supposed to.

Longhorn Man · 04-09-2005, 10:59 PM

I have also heard the sand removal thing.
I have heard of putting some lock tight on them as you drive them in.
I blew one when I froze a 350 a few years ago, but that is a good point, they normally don't go untill the block has already cracked.

Rod · 04-09-2005, 10:59 PM

grab block heater / freeze plug..it will go in easily, basically they hook in like a drywall screw mount....quick fix that way.

ed455 · 04-09-2005, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrick66

You want them to pop on a driver! They are there to keep the block from cracking if the coolant freezes (hence the term "freeze plug"). If you tap the hole and put in a pipe nut, you're certainly asking for trouble down the road somewhere. Plus, when the truck is hot, it'll blow the plug out, in many cases, instead of the top tank on your radiator.

Actually, that is an urban myth. They were designed for the removal of casting sand. If your block freezes one out, I guarantee the block is cracked.
Since water expands in ALL directions when it freezes there would have to be inner plugs as well (in the lifter valley) to stand a chance at protecting from freezing. Ironically, under the intake manifold is the most common place for a block to freeze crack.

F*rd used threaded pipe plug in a few applications (Boss 302's if I remember) and they worked fine. Many people have retrofitted marine engines with threaded plugs instead of pressed in plugs.

Another thing that works for some people is to put a little locktite on the plug.

pritch · 04-10-2005, 12:02 AM

I've had a couple blocks freeze up on me, and never once did they crack any where near the closest freeze plug.

The brass one's are originally for marine motors, brass corrodes less in salt water, you may have to look in a boat shop to find them, and like anything connected with boats, the price will be 4 to 6 times what it is actually worth.

**VetteVet** · 04-10-2005, 12:27 AM

My first experience with cracked block was a 348 in a 58 chevy. My buddy forgot to put anti=freeze in the motor and it cracked in a horizontal line down both sides of the block. It never blew out any of the freeze plugs either. We tried a couple of things to fix it, putting fiberglas on the block and then drilling a hole an inch apart the length of the crack and tapping it and putting a 1/4 inch bolt in each hole and welding between each bolt. A pro did the welding but none of these things worked. I think brass freeze plugs are overated. For the most part freeze plugs are a non issue in engines so I never worry about them if they look OK. I just never had any trouble with them.
VetteVet

junkyardjohn · 04-10-2005, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pritch

I've had a couple blocks freeze up on me, and never once did they crack any where near the closest freeze plug.

The brass one's are originally for marine motors, brass corrodes less in salt water, you may have to look in a boat shop to find them, and like anything connected with boats, the price will be 4 to 6 times what it is actually worth.

BRASS FREEZE PLUGS ARE SUPER COMMON. THE NICE PART ABOUT BRASS IS IT DOESN'T RUST LIKE THE STEEL ONES. THEY ARE ABOUT $11 AT SUMMIT OR JEGS, OR ANYWHERE THAT SELLS FREEZE PLUGS COMPARED TO ABOUT $9 FOR STEEL ONES & THEY ARE ABOUT 13 OR 14 PIECES, SO THEY DON'T REALLY SEEM EXPENSIVE AT ALL. WHY ON EARTH WOULD ANYBODY USE THE STEEL ONES WHEN THE BRASS ONES ARE ONLY A COUPLE OF DOLLARS MORE??

. I CAN UNDERSTAND G.M. s THINKING (SAVE $2 PER 50 MILLION) BUT WHY ANYBODY REPAIRING THEM?? I'VE NEVER USED LOCKTITE ON THEM, BUT I HAVE USED THE AIRCRAFT SEALER THATS MADE BY LOCKTITE, THAT I USE ON HEADBOLTS. I MAKE SURE THE HOLES ARE VERY CLEAN & HIT THEM WITH EMORY CLOTH, & DRIVE THEM IN WITH A AIR HAMMER. 99 HOLES OUT OF 100 NEVER LEAK. AS FAR AS BRASS F/P BEING OVERATED?? WELL THATS ABOUT AS SILLY AS SAYING YOU HAVE TO GET THEM AT A BOAT SHOP. RUST ON STEEL F/P COVERS ABOUT 95% OF THE FAILURE, & FOR ABOUT $2 MORE A SET YOU CAN AVOID THIS SITUATION. F/Ps ARE A WHOLE LOT EASIER TO REPLACE WHEN THE ENGINE IS ON THE STAND, THAN IT IS WHEN IT'S IN THE TRUCK. BUT THEN AGAIN THATS JUST MY OPINION, & WHO KNOW SOME PEOPLE MAY JUST WANT TO SAVE THAT $2 & ENJOY REPLACING THEM AFTER THE MOTOR IS INSTALLED (ESPECIALLY THE ONES IN BETWEEN THE BLOCK & TRANNY BELLHOUSING. IF I LET A BLOCK FREEZE & CRACK, I WOULD BE MUCH TO EMBARASSED TO EVER TELL ANYONE ABOUT IT.

JOHN

junkyardjohn · 04-10-2005, 12:26 PM

I'VE HEARD THE SAND REMOVAL THEORY TOO , & IT MAKES AS MUCH SENSE AS ANYTING ELSE I'VE HEARD. DEPENDING ON WITCH FREEZE PLUG FAILED, IT MIGHT BE EASIER TO JUST PULL THE MOTOR. IF IT FAILED BECAUSE OF RUST.... (THEY RUST FROM THE INSIDE & A GOOD WAY TO CK. IF THEY ARE ROTTON IS TO TRY TO PUSH A PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWDRIVER THRU THEM. THE OTHER ONES WILL BE READY TO GO TOO. IF IT WERE ME... I'D CHECK EM ALL.

JOHN

Robert1970C20rstbukt · 04-10-2005, 03:24 PM

When you put a new one in make sure you buy the brass ones, not the steel ones. You can get 'em at any parts store. Autozone, Oreillys, NAPA, etc.

*Randy70C-10* · 04-10-2005, 07:56 PM

I always use brass ones too, they will out-live the engine as long as they stay in.

04-09-2005, 04:52 PM	#1
Blue85 Oilfield Trash Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Raymore, Sk, Canada, Earth Posts: 3,171	Somethin Really bad just happened I was rippin down the highway in my shortbox and a frost plug blew out of the block and pumped all of my antifreeze out by the time i looked at the temp gauge(aftermarket) it was at like 250 F, you guys think this was high enough temp to ruin the engine? it wasn't really hot underneath when i popped the hood and the motor was still running fine when i shut it down, just hope i didn't cook the rings. __________________ 14 Dodge 3500 Mega Cab 08 Dodge 3500 Mega Cab 87 Chev 3+3 4x4 80 GMC K10 High Sierra bone stock 70 Chevelle 350SS long term project 68 GMC 3ton Grain Truck/Garbage wagon 50 Pontiac 2 Door Coupe Project "I've got a shotgun rifle and a 4 wheel drive and a country boy can survive" Hank Jr.

04-09-2005, 05:22 PM	#3
barn9 Half a bubble off! Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Winfield, Ks, USA Posts: 5,588	I would think you are OK if you didn't run it too long. Hopefully it's a fix and go for ya. __________________ Just call me LB. '71 Cheyenne, 402BB, hauls blondes, brunettes, or redheads.

04-09-2005, 05:36 PM	#4
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	Should be alright. Newer engines with aluminum heads can't take the heat but the old cast iron engines can usually take it. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

04-09-2005, 10:17 PM	#6
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	Tap them and put pipe plugs in. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

04-09-2005, 10:32 PM	#8
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	I don't know where I heard of it, probably on here somewhere. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

04-09-2005, 05:07 PM	#2
TugOwar Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Pleasanton, TX Posts: 1,723	I wouldn't think the engine is hurt at all, unless it ran quite a long time at that temp. 250 isn't that high really. I threw a belt on my old truck once and it got that hot or hotter before I noticed. I installed the spare belt and she purred right on down the road.

04-09-2005, 10:04 PM	#5
Alex Hayley Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: NC Posts: 987	What can one do to ensure the frost plugs do not pop out of the block?

04-09-2005, 10:33 PM	#9
ed455 Captain Ed Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Port Charlotte, FL Posts: 1,241	A lot of racers pin them.

04-09-2005, 10:54 PM	#11
patrick66 crazy about dem trucks! Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 75	You want them to pop on a driver! They are there to keep the block from cracking if the coolant freezes (hence the term "freeze plug"). If you tap the hole and put in a pipe nut, you're certainly asking for trouble down the road somewhere. Plus, when the truck is hot, it'll blow the plug out, in many cases, instead of the top tank on your radiator. Put in a new freezr plug and drive on! If you keep the coolant good in your engine, you won't have the corrosion that the plugs get, too, and that weakens them. Brass plugs are the best way to go. No rust corrosion, and they'll still do the job they're supposed to. __________________ patrick66 - '67 C-10

04-09-2005, 10:59 PM	#12
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I have also heard the sand removal thing. I have heard of putting some lock tight on them as you drive them in. I blew one when I froze a 350 a few years ago, but that is a good point, they normally don't go untill the block has already cracked.

04-09-2005, 10:59 PM	#13
Rod Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Eastern - Manitoba Canada, Winnipeg Posts: 4,369	grab block heater / freeze plug..it will go in easily, basically they hook in like a drywall screw mount....quick fix that way.

04-10-2005, 12:02 AM	#15
pritch Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Hoytsville, Utah Posts: 3,365	I've had a couple blocks freeze up on me, and never once did they crack any where near the closest freeze plug. The brass one's are originally for marine motors, brass corrodes less in salt water, you may have to look in a boat shop to find them, and like anything connected with boats, the price will be 4 to 6 times what it is actually worth. __________________ '68 Panel Project Boogie Chillin' '68 C-10 Ol' Green

04-10-2005, 12:27 AM	#16
VetteVet Msgt USAF Ret Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan Posts: 8,709	My first experience with cracked block was a 348 in a 58 chevy. My buddy forgot to put anti=freeze in the motor and it cracked in a horizontal line down both sides of the block. It never blew out any of the freeze plugs either. We tried a couple of things to fix it, putting fiberglas on the block and then drilling a hole an inch apart the length of the crack and tapping it and putting a 1/4 inch bolt in each hole and welding between each bolt. A pro did the welding but none of these things worked. I think brass freeze plugs are overated. For the most part freeze plugs are a non issue in engines so I never worry about them if they look OK. I just never had any trouble with them. VetteVet __________________ VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative.

04-10-2005, 12:26 PM	#18
junkyardjohn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SOMERSET KY. Posts: 6,427	I'VE HEARD THE SAND REMOVAL THEORY TOO , & IT MAKES AS MUCH SENSE AS ANYTING ELSE I'VE HEARD. DEPENDING ON WITCH FREEZE PLUG FAILED, IT MIGHT BE EASIER TO JUST PULL THE MOTOR. IF IT FAILED BECAUSE OF RUST.... (THEY RUST FROM THE INSIDE & A GOOD WAY TO CK. IF THEY ARE ROTTON IS TO TRY TO PUSH A PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWDRIVER THRU THEM. THE OTHER ONES WILL BE READY TO GO TOO. IF IT WERE ME... I'D CHECK EM ALL. JOHN __________________ junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST Last edited by junkyardjohn; 04-10-2005 at 12:31 PM.

04-10-2005, 03:24 PM	#19
Robert1970C20rstbukt Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Beeville, Texas Posts: 1,943	When you put a new one in make sure you buy the brass ones, not the steel ones. You can get 'em at any parts store. Autozone, Oreillys, NAPA, etc. __________________ RJD 1984 Chevrolet C30 welding truck 454/SM465 1977 GMC C15 pickup 350/TH350 1970 Chevrolet C20 pickup 350/TH400 1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban 454/TH350 1969 GMC 8500 478M V6/5 spd winch truck



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04-10-2005, 07:56 PM	#20
Randy70C-10 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A. Posts: 15,320	I always use brass ones too, they will out-live the engine as long as they stay in.

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