LS1 / Tremac swap...NEED HELP!

[0ptikal]

Hey guys I've got a new project for my truck.... I'm removing my cousins 98 ss ls1 and 6 spd tremac. It's fully assembled and have the ECU. Wirings in route from painless. But before I try and set this thing in I'm trying to figure out what else i need to get. I know I need to modify the oilpan everyone told me and motor mounts are different (saw some on ebay but they say will adapt novas nothing about c10's) As well this truck is an auto so i know i will need a clutch pedal, and a different length drive shaft. This engine is built, ran a 10.5 on the engine in the car and 9.2 off the bottle. Was just rebuilt with all new forged , balanced and blueprinted rotatign assembly 25 miles ago and has been sitting he can't sell it whole for what he wanted so I offered to part it out if he would sell me the engine. If anyone has any helpful ideas I'm greatly open to them. Have been having a fit getting this setup out of that damn camero because i tried to get it all out from the top in one piece am going to have to drop the k member and drop it all out the bottom. Anyway thanks for your help in advance as always.

[shifty]

You might find this thread to be a good read:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=52057

It covers various LT1 and LS1 swaps. Might give you some ideas.

[NPilot1975]

Pretty sure it is an automatic but try this thread also.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=145746

[FirstGen]

Yup, dropping the K-member is the easiest way.

This is when I just got the Ls1/T56 up and running:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ight=LS1%2FT56

BTW, the truck oil pan fits without mods.

Goodluck.

[0ptikal]

hey first gen it looks like your did the same swap i am. Overall how much time did it take you? I've almost got this setup out of the car and i want to get it in ASAP so i can drive it on a car cruise with friends in july to KY and WV. Also do you have templates of the motor mounts position etc that you made. Unfortunatly i bought to many ratchets and not enough fabrication tools lol so i need to get a template for this stuff so i can take it to a machine shop. This is a camaro 5.7 it was out of a 98 it's camed up and ported polished etc 425 RWH in the camaro on engine 680 on the botle and it was just rebuilt within 30 miles no bottle has been run on it yet and I don't plan on hooking it up. do you think the stock rear 4:11 12 bolt will hold up. Haven't done anything to the rear yet and see it was the weakest link.
heh your the exact guy i've been trying to find because mine is the exact same setup truck wise and engine / trans swap.
Thanks,
Ed

[0ptikal]

hey also my alternator is on the bottom right and the power steering pump is on the top left. noticed you didn't put the ac compressor on mine currently has it and am wondering if there is a clearence issue.

[FirstGen]

Yeah, the F-body acessory setup is different than the truck. Along with the intake and fuel. Took about two weeks to get it all going. You will obviously want to get it tuned when you get it fired up. I'm not sure I have the templates anymore but I know I posted them before so try a search. Your clutch/driveshaft/and rear end are the weak links. Get a good clutch, build a good steel driveshaft with 1350 U-joints/yokes on BOTH ends, get a forged rear end yoke (w/ 1350 u-joint), make sure to lay down some nice welds around the axle tubes on the rear end, and get a good posi unit in there. Stock axles are ok to about 600 hp. Add some decent slicks at the track and you will hook up pretty well. Go with BFG Drag Radials for the street, it's the best stuff on the market for a street tire. Mickey Thompson also makes an equivelent drag radial. No clearance issues on the compressor.