Trailer Question

[NPilot1975]

I am looking at getting a trailer. Found this one close to my parents' house where my trucks are. It is 18'+4', has new wheels and tires, and 1 electric brake axle. I can get it for $2200. Is this a good price? Does anyone have this style trailer and if so, opinion?

Also, what is a good brake controller?

Thanx

[67ChevyRedneck]

My uncle bought a brand new trailer exactly like that one for $1,800. EXCEPT it DOES NOT tilt back. I don't know how much a tilt trailer would be, but you may want to call around to a couple of trailer places to see what they charge for a brand new one. Stuff tends to be cheaper in SC, so it may be a good deal. He loves the electric brakes. It's a great option. I'd call around first, but it's a nice trailer and seems to be a good deal.

[NPilot1975]

Thanx, I am overseas and have been searching the net. It seems like any trailer built like this is around the same price. It is a little more for the tilt bed then a standard bed. My brother told me it is better for low vehicles. I have a vette that I may tow on it from time to time.

[StingRay]

I have a 20 ft version of that style of trailer. What is the trailers GVWR? 1 braking axle sounds small for a 22ft trailer Does it have a hydraulic cushion cylinder to prop up the deck when it's tilted? If not then something to consider on a tilting equipment trailer like that is that as the front wheels of your vehicle cross the fulcrum of the tilt deck the back will come up and whack the bottom of your vehicle. The only way it won't is if the deck is supported by a cushion cylinder(hydraulic cylinder with no pump just the two ends looped together with hoses and a valve), a prop of some kind or ramps that keep the weight of the back wheels holding the back of the deck down. It will also be fine for vehicles that have a wheel base less than the fulcrum length. Another thing to consider is that the drive on deck width is a bit reduced. Mine is just wide enough for the track width of my 72. I paid 3 grand Canadian for mine. It's 4 years old with a bit of cosmetic wear and tear and has an 8050 gvwr rating with two braking axles. I'll be adding a cylinder to it for the odd time I actually use it for vehicles. I have seen some 16 foot full tilting trailers lately for about 3200 bucks Can (plus taxes) with similar gvwr's that are a little more practical for frequent vehicle hauling and are already set up to go. With some 16 ft trailers though it can be hard to get enough weight far enough forward to load the tounge and they tow like crap. A longer trailer can be easier to distrubute the weight optimally on.

Oh ya is it a tube frame or a channel frame? Tube is better and worth more.

[NPilot1975]

I don't think it has a cushion cylinder. I am pretty sure it is tube construction. I can get a second brake axle for $125, so it sounds like that is a good idea to get. It also looks from another picture as though the tilt is the full width between the fenders so it would be 82".

[vtblazer]

I'd buy it.
That's a nice trailer, tilt's are cool.

Up around here that trailer would cost at least 3K.

Deffinetly go with the 2nd axel brake, you'll be glad you did.

What's the trailer weigh? What's the GVWR on it?

[teeitup]

I got a 22 foot H+H FULL tilt trailer and love it, get brakes on both axles, very good to have, I got 5400# axles under mine, I paid $1800 for it 3 years ago. Price is right on that one.

[StingRay]

I can't see from these pics that it could be the full width at the fenders. It has the frame that you see extending from the tongue rearwards and the tilting deck in between that. Looks the same as my trailer. Measure for yourself but I think you'll find the tilting deck section is at least 4" less than the between fender width.

What is the GVWR of the trailer. As I understand it in some places up here in Canada different drivers license endorsments can be required for towing anything over 10,000 gvw. Check your own laws

[Blue_71]

just throwing my $0.02 in.... personally, i wouldnt get a bumper pull trailer... i would look for a gooseneck one, they're much easier on the springs of the vehicle as the ball is placed directly over the rear wheels and not at the back, pushing down hard on the back (kind of the same theory as put the heaviest stuff at the front of your truck bed)

something else to keep in mind, in kentucky at least, a trailer over 20 ft is ilegal to pull without the towing vehicle having dual rear wheels (this is what ive heard from a guy who hauls cows all over the country)

[NPilot1975]

It has 2 - 3500# axles for a total of 7000#. I have a Class D drivers license, I know it is good for a straight truck don't know about trailers. I will have to look into the length law as far as dual axles.

[StingRay]

With 2 3500# axles it will give a gvwr of 8050 just like mine. 15% is added to the axle capacity for the load carried on the tongue. Make sure to see if the trailer has a spare tire, that the break away battery and switch are in good working order and that all lights and associated electrical are in good working order. Make sure you know when the bearings were last serviced or plan on packing and/or replacing them when you get it. Make sure you check the condition of the tires and the wood decking too.

[barn9]

Price is right in line with what they are going for around this area.

[NPilot1975]

Stingray, Thanx for the tips. It is actually a brand new trailer. I have to decided what I want and order it. I don't think it comes with a spare tire.

Does anyone think I will have a problem pulling this behind my truck? It has an ECE 4/6 drop and the rear tires are 285/30ZR18's. I am thinking of putting air bags on the back to support more weight.

I am beginning to wonder if this isn't too much trailer. I am thinking maybe I should go with a 16 footer with 2 foot dovetail. I think my truck would pull it easier and it would be enough. Just wondering if I would be able to get my vette on it if I needed to.

[lost wages]

there is a big difference in quality built trailers, look at a few before you buy, dont just buy the one that looks the best because of price. I looked at several and in my opinion h@h and big tex have some of the nicest built trailers out there. mine is a big tex 70dm, brakes on both axles and an all steel floor, no rotting wood after a few years. the ramps slife in the back and are super wide, made from 1/4 inch tread plate. just my .02 but some of the trailers i looked at were downright scary in the construction. http://www.bigtextrailers.com/spec/70dm.html

[lost wages]

one other thing is that big tex only puts on NEW trailer tires, not used car tires, on the trailers.

[NPilot1975]

Lost Wages,

I was just looking at the H&H 18' MX tiltbed trailer. It is the hand operated tilt bed. Why did you go with the big tex over H&H? Looks like you went with 18', is that long enough for your '67, etc? How much did you pay and what options did you get?

[NPilot1975]

OK, thanx everyone for the advise, I think I found the trailer I am going to get. Specs:

Name: 18' Speedloader MX with E-track

Model: #68790

Description: 82" x 18' deck with e-track recessed into the floor and welded to the frame and 4 e-track clips, all c-channel construction, DOT compliant with 2 brake axles , marker lights and break-away kit, tear drop fenders, new 15" tires with cambered axles, 7K dropleg jack, 10 yr structural warranty on frame and limited lifetime rot warranty on floor.

Price: $2,495

[Blue_71]

if it helps you out any, ive hauled a 1976 ford f-150 lwb on a 16 foot trailer (16 ft by 78")

[NPilot1975]

Perfect, I should have plenty of length with this one without being too long.