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Old 06-11-2002, 09:39 AM   #1
Kas68c10
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Angry Rear end problems

I had the rear end out last month,put in new trailer arms, saddles,coils and cups. It all went fine,drove better than ever. Then, yesterday, I get a growling from the rear end, only when I am going forward, about 30 mph or so. When I did all that work some fluid leaked out of the rear end, but I checked the level, it seemes fine. I never had the rear end apart, just off the chassis to get the saddles welded on. I jacked up one side,and the wheel was fine going backward, but noisy and tough to turn forward.My qusetion(s) is (are)
1. Is there some alignment I should have done when I put the rear end back in?
2. Any thoughts on what might be wrong ?
3. Will it be hard to fix ? Never had a rear end apart before.
4. Is rear end work relatively inexpensive for our trucks ? I am pressed for time, should I take it to a shop?
Thanx in advance
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1968 SWB Stepside, 250,pwr disc brake and tilt pwr steering, 5 spd tranny, HEI,Accel coil,K&N filter,Seat from a later truck with built in seatbelts, front and rear sway bars, moved gas tank to under the bed, headman hedders, new chrome bumpers,one wire alternator,Weber k550cub carburator...WORK IN PROGRESS, Freeland MI , Just bought a 72 Jimmy!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-11-2002, 09:56 AM   #2
tom hand
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Why did you have to weld saddles on? Have you ever changed oil in the rearend?
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Old 06-11-2002, 10:56 AM   #3
Kas68c10
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I had to weld the saddles on to the axle, thats the way they were
on,so I assumed that was correct. The oil was changed in the rear end about 5 years ago.
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1968 SWB Stepside, 250,pwr disc brake and tilt pwr steering, 5 spd tranny, HEI,Accel coil,K&N filter,Seat from a later truck with built in seatbelts, front and rear sway bars, moved gas tank to under the bed, headman hedders, new chrome bumpers,one wire alternator,Weber k550cub carburator...WORK IN PROGRESS, Freeland MI , Just bought a 72 Jimmy!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-11-2002, 01:32 PM   #4
jamiew
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Most rear-end problems can best be diagnosed by a good proctologist with the use of a good quality latex free glove.

Bend over and spread 'em!!

Just joking, couldn't resist.

JamieW
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Old 06-11-2002, 01:52 PM   #5
Carl 70 lwb
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Check for heat around the wheel hubs after a drive theres a bearing in there that i had go bad once. there not bad to work on if you pay attention to what your doing, just a little time comsuming
good luck Carl
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Old 06-11-2002, 02:41 PM   #6
tom hand
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Growling from a rearend is usally not a good sign. First check and make sure the brakes are not the problem. Then you might what to check the axle bearings. If the problem is in the "guts" of the rearend then the fun begins. You can't do a lot of work on a rearend without buying a lot of special tools so farming it out is most peoples answer. I aways just find a used one and replace it. I would pull the rear cover and then there will proably be no dought.If you have coil springs Chevy Duty sells a kit to make other rears work with the panhard bar,so it is much easier to find somthing at the local boneyard. GOOD LUCK
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Old 06-11-2002, 03:15 PM   #7
Kas68c10
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I have jacked up the truck, one wheel at a time, and both wheels spin,but are hard to to,and make a grumbly,growling sound. Would this rule out axle bearings, or would both sides go out at the same time ? What is the easiest way to check them ?
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1968 SWB Stepside, 250,pwr disc brake and tilt pwr steering, 5 spd tranny, HEI,Accel coil,K&N filter,Seat from a later truck with built in seatbelts, front and rear sway bars, moved gas tank to under the bed, headman hedders, new chrome bumpers,one wire alternator,Weber k550cub carburator...WORK IN PROGRESS, Freeland MI , Just bought a 72 Jimmy!!!!!!!!!!!
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