What's the best way to cut the dash for Modern Radio?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

cobb_ben · 04-27-2005, 08:43 PM

I was wondering how you would cut the dash out to make the radio hole large enough for the modern box radio, I think that is called a DIMM?? The common aftermaket size. Also how do you remove the dash bezel with the hole for the light switch being to small??? Because like on my 1976 the hole is bigger that the knob on the light switch. Thanks guys any advise would be appriciated.
Thanks
Ben

raceman6135 · 04-27-2005, 09:06 PM

Most people use a Dremel, or an angle grinder with a thin "cut-off" wheel, or a jigsaw to cut the hole to the proper size. Remember: measure twice, cut once!

You have to reach under the dash to the light switch, where you'll find a small button. Push and hold the button, and then pull on the light switch knob. The knob and shaft should pull out of the switch, allowing you to remove the dash bezel.

Darrin

bodydropped · 04-27-2005, 11:38 PM

the stero installer put the radio holder on my dahs and marked it then used a solder gun that had a flat peice and use that to cut the plastic he took his time and it looks like a factory job installed

bringit · 04-28-2005, 08:04 AM

I used a air tool with a thin cut off wheel, but a dremel would work great also. My advice is to cut the hole to small first (inside the lines) and slowy trim till it fits tight.

**N2TRUX** · 04-28-2005, 08:35 AM

I have a tool you can borrow. It works pretty good if your easy on the trigger....

badassbowtie81 · 04-28-2005, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I have a tool you can borrow. It works pretty good if your easy on the trigger....

you laugh i used sawzall on mine....looks really good actually

screwballl · 04-28-2005, 10:00 AM

a reciprocating saw sometimes is the only way to get a proper cut on these...

Greenlee · 04-28-2005, 10:38 AM

Alot of them I have seen done by other people have a gap showing where the big square opening is for the factory radio. If you are careful you can avoid that. Mine looks like a factory fit. I marked the hole using the metal sleeve that holds the radio and used an air die grinder with a thin cutting wheel to cut the hole.

If your 76' is like mine (also a 76), you don't need to remove the light switch to get the bezel off. I have seen the bezels with a really small hole, and I guess on those you would have to remove the switch for the light. I think the small hole bezels came on early models (possibly 73-74???).

bringit · 04-28-2005, 11:01 AM

If you use a resiprocating saw or jigsaw you will rattle loose everything in the dash. Use a rotory tool like a dremel or air tool and you will get better results.

Ric83 · 04-28-2005, 11:42 AM

We just used a hacksaw blade when we did my dad's.

1985K10 · 04-30-2005, 07:50 PM

I used a Dremel and a hacksaw blade.

**old Rusty C10** · 05-01-2005, 10:38 AM

ive had great success cutting almost anything with a dremel. ive invested in a extension tool thats flexible that works wonders god i love that tool!!

75Chevy90Kawi · 05-01-2005, 02:45 PM

the dremel is the best tool ever. i use mine about 20 billion times a day. i would imagine a cutting wheel would be hard to get in the right place though because of the angle and the fact that the blade is a lot smaller than the diameter of the actual dremel. but i didnt do mine, it came with it

gregbr · 05-02-2005, 02:37 AM

Just did it on my son's 85 K10, looks very similar to 1985k10's picture above. Our Pioneer had the same trim and all, we ended up with the trim flush with the plastic part so the dash panel can be removed without removing the radio. The dremel tool and small cutoff discs worked great.

C-10volvo · 05-02-2005, 02:56 AM

i used..... a jig saw.... but i built something. i dont like cutting up the dash. food for thought

cobb_ben · 05-02-2005, 10:00 AM

I liked the box, and I just ended up cutting the dash, is is kind of close, some gap in there but it wil be ok.

Justins76 · 05-07-2005, 11:18 PM

I used a sawzall to cut the metal dash part and a dremel to cut the plastic bezel.

Russell · 05-07-2005, 11:25 PM

Personally, I'd pick up a factory radio delete plate, and install the radio into that. It removes the possiblity of an unsightly gap that sometimes happens if you don't cut it perfectly.

'78 Fleetside · 05-08-2005, 12:09 AM

Thx guys, i was about to come here and ask the same exact question haha, and 1985k10, i have that EXACT deck lmao, but its only temp. =D i got big big plans. Well thx again guys for you help.

TexasJeff · 05-09-2005, 05:55 PM

there are plenty of places that sell radios with the knob and new inside's just look on the internet, please dont cut these trucks up

Bob Gervais · 05-10-2005, 12:25 AM

I actually made an aluminum plate that mounts on top of the old opening, with the DIN size cut into it. The I scribed out the plastic bezel, and cut the metal dash. I used the two original screw holes, and drilled two new ones, and used longer screws to attach everything. I still need to paint the aluminum flat black, after drilling some holes to mount some toggle switches in it. Once it's done, I'll get some pics of it up. It'll look factory once painted, and there's no gaps or anything showing.

I used a jigsaw to cut the plastic, and the dash. I used a Prototrak CNC Bridgeport to cut the aluminum plate.

Ric83 · 05-14-2005, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Gervais

I actually made an aluminum plate that mounts on top of the old opening, with the DIN size cut into it. The I scribed out the plastic bezel, and cut the metal dash. I used the two original screw holes, and drilled two new ones, and used longer screws to attach everything. I still need to paint the aluminum flat black, after drilling some holes to mount some toggle switches in it. Once it's done, I'll get some pics of it up. It'll look factory once painted, and there's no gaps or anything showing.

I used a jigsaw to cut the plastic, and the dash. I used a Prototrak CNC Bridgeport to cut the aluminum plate.

I just bought one of those form the sound system place when I bought the rest of my system.

mhicks · 05-16-2005, 03:46 PM

They have a thing called a body saw. It has a blade like a jigsaw and it runs off of air. It looks like a small sawzall. It works great. They are a very handy tool. I picked mine up for about 25.00 at Harbor Freight.

truckinbean · 06-08-2005, 12:32 AM

Has anyone seen this or used it before? http://www.scosche.com/scosche.aspx?...B&CategoryID=5

Not sure what's supposed to hold it in place since there aren't any holes for the screws. I was skimming the Summit catalog and found the listing for 73-87s so I looked it up. Only $10 from Summit, might be worth it.

Any thoughts?

Ben

04-27-2005, 08:43 PM	#1
cobb_ben Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Fort Leonard Wood Mo Posts: 299	What's the best way to cut the dash for Modern Radio?? I was wondering how you would cut the dash out to make the radio hole large enough for the modern box radio, I think that is called a DIMM?? The common aftermaket size. Also how do you remove the dash bezel with the hole for the light switch being to small??? Because like on my 1976 the hole is bigger that the knob on the light switch. Thanks guys any advise would be appriciated. Thanks Ben

04-27-2005, 11:38 PM	#3
bodydropped Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: beaumont,tx Posts: 757	the stero installer put the radio holder on my dahs and marked it then used a solder gun that had a flat peice and use that to cut the plastic he took his time and it looks like a factory job installed __________________ http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...ropped/sig.jpg

04-28-2005, 08:04 AM	#4
bringit Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 105	I used a air tool with a thin cut off wheel, but a dremel would work great also. My advice is to cut the hole to small first (inside the lines) and slowy trim till it fits tight. __________________ 85 chevy K10 350 crate, headman headers, street avenger carb, accel distrib , rebuilt 700r4, on 33" Super Swamper TSL's, 4 inch Pro Comp lift, shocks, and steel braided brake lines.

04-28-2005, 08:35 AM	#5
N2TRUX Happy to be here Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Cypress, TX Posts: 39,021	I have a tool you can borrow. It works pretty good if your easy on the trigger.... Attached Images __________________ Follow me on Facebook and Instagram @N2trux.com Articles- "Jake" the 84 to 74 crewcab "Elwood" the77_Remix 85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett" "Refining Sierra" Last edited by N2TRUX; 04-28-2005 at 08:36 AM.

04-28-2005, 10:00 AM	#7
screwballl Tonawanda 454 Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Liquid Sunshine State Posts: 2,754	a reciprocating saw sometimes is the only way to get a proper cut on these... __________________ 91 Chevy Suburban Tonawanda 454 R2500 - SOLD!!! 04 Dodge Durango 5.7L Hemi 2WD, 24K miles (as of July 2011) In the past 30 years about 90% of Fords are still on the road, the other 10% made it home. -------------------

04-27-2005, 09:06 PM	#2
raceman6135 Dino burner Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 602	Most people use a Dremel, or an angle grinder with a thin "cut-off" wheel, or a jigsaw to cut the hole to the proper size. Remember: measure twice, cut once! You have to reach under the dash to the light switch, where you'll find a small button. Push and hold the button, and then pull on the light switch knob. The knob and shaft should pull out of the switch, allowing you to remove the dash bezel. Darrin

04-28-2005, 10:38 AM	#8
Greenlee Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: El Lago, TX Posts: 1,668	Alot of them I have seen done by other people have a gap showing where the big square opening is for the factory radio. If you are careful you can avoid that. Mine looks like a factory fit. I marked the hole using the metal sleeve that holds the radio and used an air die grinder with a thin cutting wheel to cut the hole. If your 76' is like mine (also a 76), you don't need to remove the light switch to get the bezel off. I have seen the bezels with a really small hole, and I guess on those you would have to remove the switch for the light. I think the small hole bezels came on early models (possibly 73-74???). Last edited by Greenlee; 04-28-2005 at 10:48 AM.

04-28-2005, 11:01 AM	#9
bringit Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 105	If you use a resiprocating saw or jigsaw you will rattle loose everything in the dash. Use a rotory tool like a dremel or air tool and you will get better results. __________________ 85 chevy K10 350 crate, headman headers, street avenger carb, accel distrib , rebuilt 700r4, on 33" Super Swamper TSL's, 4 inch Pro Comp lift, shocks, and steel braided brake lines.

04-28-2005, 11:42 AM	#10
Ric83 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 824	We just used a hacksaw blade when we did my dad's. __________________ Ric '83 Silverado SWB Fleetside Here she is

04-30-2005, 07:50 PM	#11
1985K10 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: CT Posts: 315	I used a Dremel and a hacksaw blade. Attached Images __________________ Anthony 07 Tahoe LT 70 Chevelle 450HP 383-TH400 77 GMC Royal Sierra~Resto in progress~

05-01-2005, 10:38 AM	#12
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,310	ive had great success cutting almost anything with a dremel. ive invested in a extension tool thats flexible that works wonders god i love that tool!! __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

05-01-2005, 02:45 PM	#13
75Chevy90Kawi the green machine Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: marysville washington Posts: 333	the dremel is the best tool ever. i use mine about 20 billion times a day. i would imagine a cutting wheel would be hard to get in the right place though because of the angle and the fact that the blade is a lot smaller than the diameter of the actual dremel. but i didnt do mine, it came with it __________________ 1975 Silverado - 450 horse crate 383 stroker, 20" Centerlines, Flowmaster exhaust, Hooker headers, full MSD ignition & more... 2003 Suzuki TL1000R 1985 Kawasaki JS550 hull - project ski - WILL have - 650, footholds, custom paint, 4* bars, bilge setup, and more... My pictures

05-02-2005, 02:37 AM	#14
gregbr Senoir Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Rock Hill, SC USA Posts: 1,214	Just did it on my son's 85 K10, looks very similar to 1985k10's picture above. Our Pioneer had the same trim and all, we ended up with the trim flush with the plastic part so the dash panel can be removed without removing the radio. The dremel tool and small cutoff discs worked great. __________________ 67 Chevy, Small back glass, Factory 4WD, Factory Shortbed, Factory V8, Lifted 4" 70 GMC Sierra Grande, Factory Shortbed, Factory 402/400 turbo, Super Custom Interior. Numbers matching with SPID & Build Sheet. 68K Original Miles. Restored 2010 70 GMC Restoration Pictures http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...00&ppuser=4424

05-02-2005, 02:56 AM	#15
C-10volvo Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: Lake Oswego, Oregon Posts: 1,028	i used..... a jig saw.... but i built something. i dont like cutting up the dash. food for thought Attached Images __________________ Ken Morgan For fun: 1964 Volvo 122 For slow: 1984 Chevrolet C-10 For everything else: 1997 BMW M3

05-02-2005, 10:00 AM	#16
cobb_ben Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Fort Leonard Wood Mo Posts: 299	I liked the box, and I just ended up cutting the dash, is is kind of close, some gap in there but it wil be ok.



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05-07-2005, 11:18 PM	#17
Justins76 OutOfMyMind & I'llNeverKnowWhy Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Another world, some other time Posts: 672	I used a sawzall to cut the metal dash part and a dremel to cut the plastic bezel. __________________ -Justin-Out of my mind and I'll never know why 1976 Chevrolet Silverado C10 350 4bbl / TH350 Big10 longbed 1986 Pontiac Firebird T-Top 5.0L TPI 700R4 WS6 1992 Pontiac Firebird T-Top 5.0L TBI 700R4 My cardomain page I don't like to save, it's more fun to spend!!

05-07-2005, 11:25 PM	#18
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Personally, I'd pick up a factory radio delete plate, and install the radio into that. It removes the possiblity of an unsightly gap that sometimes happens if you don't cut it perfectly. __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

05-08-2005, 12:09 AM	#19
'78 Fleetside Young'n Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Lafayette, Louisiana Posts: 258	Thx guys, i was about to come here and ask the same exact question haha, and 1985k10, i have that EXACT deck lmao, but its only temp. =D i got big big plans. Well thx again guys for you help.

05-09-2005, 05:55 PM	#20
TexasJeff Don't Crush em Restore em Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Pinehurst, Texas Posts: 764	DON't DO IT there are plenty of places that sell radios with the knob and new inside's just look on the internet, please dont cut these trucks up __________________ TexasJeff 2009 Silver with Linen Interior Cadillac DTS 1990 Red with White Top and Interior Ford Mustang GT convertible 1998 Red with Gray Interior, C3500 Chevy Crew Cab Dually

05-10-2005, 12:25 AM	#21
Bob Gervais Truckless for the moment... Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Cranston, RI Posts: 180	I actually made an aluminum plate that mounts on top of the old opening, with the DIN size cut into it. The I scribed out the plastic bezel, and cut the metal dash. I used the two original screw holes, and drilled two new ones, and used longer screws to attach everything. I still need to paint the aluminum flat black, after drilling some holes to mount some toggle switches in it. Once it's done, I'll get some pics of it up. It'll look factory once painted, and there's no gaps or anything showing. I used a jigsaw to cut the plastic, and the dash. I used a Prototrak CNC Bridgeport to cut the aluminum plate. __________________ 1987 V1500 GMC Suburban, 350 TBI, Flowtech dual exhaust, Rough Country 2" spring lift, 56" 3/4 ton rear spring conversion, 33" BFG All Terrains, and the smokescreen engine mod -- Former truck, searching for another now...

05-16-2005, 03:46 PM	#23
mhicks Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Weatherford,Tx Posts: 747	They have a thing called a body saw. It has a blade like a jigsaw and it runs off of air. It looks like a small sawzall. It works great. They are a very handy tool. I picked mine up for about 25.00 at Harbor Freight.

06-08-2005, 12:32 AM	#24
truckinbean Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Strathmore, CA Posts: 110	Has anyone seen this or used it before? http://www.scosche.com/scosche.aspx?...B&CategoryID=5 Not sure what's supposed to hold it in place since there aren't any holes for the screws. I was skimming the Summit catalog and found the listing for 73-87s so I looked it up. Only $10 from Summit, might be worth it. Any thoughts? Ben __________________ '77 Blazer 2wd lowered 5/6 Goodwrench 350/700r4/3.73 Performer intake Performer 1400 carb Sanderson Headers/Dual 2 1/2" Flowmasters

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