90 c20 crewcab frame question

[STP67-72]

My friend just bought a 90 model square body crewcab. We are going to cut the frame and put his nice swb bed on it. I have done the 67-72's and know that they have websites that tells you where to cut and how much. Just wondering if anybody has done one of these. Any info would help.
He also will be parting out his 87 swb silverado that got totaled about a month ago. It was a original paint and 70000 mile truck. 350 injected and 700r. Perfect cab and doors. I am not sure what all he is keeping. Thanks

[bodydropped]

u need to cut the frame behind the cab and use the swb frame and weld it in is the easiest so u dont have to worry about mounts and so on

[Captkaos]

14" at the front and 6" at the rear if memory serves me correctly. If you bolt the SWB bed down you can pretty much tell where to cut it.

[tbirdman88]

captkaos is right

i just did my 87 crewcab,the way i did was to measure from the center of the first bolt hole, to the center of the second bolt hole. write down these measurements for the bed on the short bed truck,it should be about 10.5 inches, then measure the crewcab the same way, make sure to measure to center of bolt holes. then subtract the difference. the 2nd,3rd,and 4th bolt holes will line right up with the short bed.

you will have to redrill the mounting holes for the fuel tanks

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/828517


donnie
tbirdman88@msn.com

[STP67-72]

ttt

[milehightoyz]

tbirdman, do you have any pictures of the frame on yours, i am also in the process of doing thsi and would liek to see how you boxed it in and how you made your cuts....also interested in knowing what parts was needed for the 1/2 ton swap. thanks in advanced, john

[tbirdman88]

[IMG] 1 5/8 inches from center of front bed bolt to the front cut, then measure 14 inches and cut again.






[IMG] fish plate the inside of frame.

as far as parts go, i took a complete 88 surburban suspension,including 1/2 ton master cylinder. put 1/2 ton ball joints on. 1/2 ton long bed truck leaf springs ,and front and rear hangers, and bolted them on. you will have to drill some new holes for the hangers. the hardest part is grinding and drilling the rivets. you will also need tanks for a short bed, and swb park brake cables, and make new top shock mounts on the rear. im still not finished with mine yet,still have to hook up the brakes,fuel lines,etc. well i hope this helps. just remember, you can never measure to many times, but you can only cut once.

send me a e-mail and i will try to send better pics
donnie-tbirdman88@msn.com

[milehightoyz]

just got my done...not quite as bad as it seems, from chop to finish only took about 4 hours....thanks for the rgeat info t-birdman...very halpful hints and made the cut go alot quicker

[milehightoyz]

Just a couple quick pics.

[Captkaos]

Sweet!

[boxrodz]

Originally Posted by milehightoyz

just got my done...not quite as bad as it seems, from chop to finish only took about 4 hours....thanks for the rgeat info t-birdman...very halpful hints and made the cut go alot quicker

Very nice job. Nice Weld.
Did you use a MIG? And, in your opinion, do you think a fish plate is needed?

[milehightoyz]

Thanks for the feedback. I think for normal everyday driving the fish plate is not really needed. I added a fishplate to the inside on both sides for added reassurance. They are more there for piece of mind. I beveled the edges and made sure the cuts were right on to assure the best fit and that my welds would be the best they could be. Good luck and also if anyone has question on this feel free to post them. I know I had pronblems finding info on this subject when I was trying to do it and this site had the most help, so Id like to returnt he favor and help others if they need it. Thanks, John

[milehightoyz]

P.S. Yes, I used MIG Lincoln Power Mig 255 Power=3 Wire Speed=60 I believe.

[tbirdman88]

what are your plans for the truck. are you going to leave it 3/4 ton, or make it a 1/2 ton.

donnie-87shortcrewcab

[milehightoyz]

as of right now im planning on leaving it 3/4 ton, probably swap out to a big block automatic as it is currently running a 350/4spd (YUCK!) Ive already ordered my parts through GMCPAULS (as recommended by a member on this board, I will let you know how the transaction goes) for a 5/7" static drop. I got 3" spindles 2" coils and a flip kit all for just under $500 to my door. i also plan on running 22x9.5 wheels with 285-35- 22" tires. will update with photos as more work gets done. as of rigth now im working on tailgate and ass end. taillights filled, tailgate welded shut, hand made rollpan. frenched caddy tails into the rollpan, frenched chevy panel into the tailgate, etc.

[boxrodz]

Originally Posted by milehightoyz

Thanks for the feedback. I think for normal everyday driving the fish plate is not really needed. I added a fishplate to the inside on both sides for added reassurance. They are more there for piece of mind. I beveled the edges and made sure the cuts were right on to assure the best fit and that my welds would be the best they could be. Good luck and also if anyone has question on this feel free to post them. I know I had pronblems finding info on this subject when I was trying to do it and this site had the most help, so Id like to returnt he favor and help others if they need it. Thanks, John
P.S. Yes, I used MIG Lincoln Power Mig 255 Power=3 Wire Speed=60 I believe.

John,

Thanks for the reply. As I said before, your welds look really nice.
Sounds like you have a good plan too. On your 5-7 drop, are you going with a C-notch or maybe a step notch? Looking forward to seeing more pics...

[milehightoyz]

No prob, Glad to help. Going to see where the truck sits once i flip it and kind of judge from there if I want to add the shackles or not for the full 7". Id like to drive the truck a little before I start chopping it up for bags. either way its gonna get a step notch as bags are inevtiable in the future. im just in a spot where Id like to get it in and out of the shop ASAP as I have a few other projects Id like to finish up with. Im waiting on new rubber for the 22" wheels and the drop parts from GMC pauls so I figured itd be a good time to start on body work. We all know how much time that takes. I will keep you posted as things start to unfold. Thanks again for the interst. John

[boxrodz]

Cool.
Good luck on your progress.
(On my 1/2 ton truck a 8" drop would put the axle about 1/2" away from the frame.)

[milehightoyz]

So far my experience with GMCpauls ahs been very unsatisfactory. Will post more info soon. I am waiting on correspondence.

[milehightoyz]

GMCPAULS made things right with me. Great vendor in my book!

[boxrodz]

Good to hear.

Got any updates on your progress?

[screwballl]

just me but i prefer them with long box/crew cab style but thats just me...
from the posts i have read here, gmcpauls is definately a good company to deal with if you just explain your situation...

[milehightoyz]

My situation in a nutsehll was this: My order consisted of Drop spindles, Drop coils and Flip kit. I placed my order online and paid through paypal. After placing my order I was sent an additional invoice for shipping that was not charged to me. An additional $17.00 charge for shipping on the flip kit I bought that for some reason was not charged to me online. I assumed that since I was already paying $52.00 in shipping it was probably already in there. No bigge, well I get the flip kit first of the three items I ordered, and it was sent to me flat rate which cost $7.70 not the $17.00 I was charged. Ok no biggie, makes a little money on shipping not gonna kill me. Well I have a 3/4 ton and they sent me a 1/2 ton flip kit. OK, then spindles come in and they are CHASSIS TECH spindles. I am not a huge fan of CHASSIS TECH. I think the quality of their products are inferior and their customer service is nothing short of laughable and I refuse to use them. The spindles were not advertised on GMCPAULS site as CHASSISTECH or else I wouldve never shelled out $250.00 for them. Granted I never did use Chassis tech spindles I opted to eat the bill and just use them, anxious to get the turck togetehr. Well, order placed May 20, here we are June 8 and springs have not even been made yet, so I cancelled that order. In the end, I have nothing bad to say about Paul at GMC PAULS, Great guy, did reimburse me $30.00 for the wrong flip kit and did refund me for the springs. Although my experience hasnt been the greatest, they did come through in the end and make things right. So its back to the drawing board, looking for drop coils and flip kit for 82 crew cab 3/4 ton suspension.

[milehightoyz]

As far as updates, things has slowed down on that truck as I am trying top finish up my 68 shortwide and my 55 chevy belair and a few other projects while ive been searching for parst for the crewcab.

Here are a few pics of the 22" wheels i plan to use (however, i will be running 285/35/22" tires as opposed to the 305/40/22" tires pictured). Also some progress pics of the entire interior being gutted (looking for 4 buckets to use, the awkward protrusions int he factory floor board pose alot of problems for sitting options, contemplating cutting out some of these humps where I can, unsure yet. Lastly pictures of the ass end roughed out, will be using caddy tails mounted horizontal in the rollpan I made. Hope you like it. Will update with mroe pics as they are taken.

[boxrodz]

Looks like you're making some good progress, especially since your busy on the '55 and the '69. (Looks like you got your hands full.) The rear is very unique with what looks like a recessed nameplate on the tailgate. I'm not aware of anyone who sells drop kits (spindles other than Chassis T***, coils or flip kits for the 3/4Ton 73-87's). Maybe, it's time to go straight to the bags. I don't know whether or not you've seen the crewcab in the pic below. It is lowered with Chassis T*** 3" drop spindles, DJM lower control arms and 2600 bags. On the rear, the frame is C-notched and the factory springs retained. Since it's used for towing, the rear also has 2600s. BTW, the wheels are 20s.