![]() |
Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: LAX area, So Cal
Posts: 499
|
New dash and seats pics for the C20 (L31/4L60E)
So far everything works except the drivers side fuel gauge is jumpy (need to check the wiring and grounds), and the signal to the Speedo (electric) is bad, so I think I need to splice into the wire before the PCM instead of using the PCM output to speedo wire.
The seats and belts are from a 99 Suburban second row (thanks Putter!!) Just some final finishing touches and the old girl will be back in action. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
1972 Suburban C20 454/TH700R4, eaton-corporate 4.10 (looking for 3.7) Sold: 71 Cheyenne 20 Installed a 99 5.7L L31/4L60E from Suburban 1500 (2005) Last edited by Tim240Z; 05-02-2005 at 02:46 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
chevy truck fan
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Gilbert, arizona 85298
Posts: 1,990
|
very nice interior. i was wondering what you used to make your dash bezel?? i am also wondering how the seat fit? did you have to make any hole mods. if you could be kind enough to expand on what you did i would appreciate it greatly. again very nice work!!
![]() rodstored-72 ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: LAX area, So Cal
Posts: 499
|
For the seats, I cannot take full credit. I copied the idea from Putter (Eric).
I removed the in cab tank to make more room for the 3 point belts (had some interference with the driver side retracting assembly and with the return line that I had welded to the tank for the fuel injection system, so I just completely removed it. I had to drill a couple of new holes in the seat rail to match the existing threaded holes in the cab floor and had to drill a couple of new holes in the floor. No biggy at all. The seat belts bolted to all the existing threaded holes in the cab. For the Dash, I used a piece of aluminum sheet. I used the OEM dash panel and some cardboard to make a template. Then drilled a couple of 1/2" holes for the headlight and wiper switches. Then I used some poster paper to sketch out where I wanted the gauges and warning lights (2 x turn signal lights, high beam indicator light, charge warning light and 'check engine' or MIL (malfunction indicator light), and the toggle switch for the transfer pump, to push fuel from the passenger tank to the drivers side tank). I used a jig saw to cut the gauge holes. Hole saws would have worked better, but those sizes for metal are pricey......I already had a jigsaw.....
__________________
1972 Suburban C20 454/TH700R4, eaton-corporate 4.10 (looking for 3.7) Sold: 71 Cheyenne 20 Installed a 99 5.7L L31/4L60E from Suburban 1500 (2005) |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|