Solving The 4x4 Tie Rod Puzzle?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

*72longbed* · 05-03-2005, 08:49 PM

This has probably been asked before but, here goes again. Who can get me the proper MOOG or TRW part numbers for the 1971 3/4 ton K20 front tie rod ends that attach to the long rod that connects both knuckles together? I have been trying with local parts stores,

, and they don't seem to know their 'a$$ from a hole in the ground'. They keep giving the parts for a 2WD front end or the tie rod ends for the draglink.

It's sad the lack of talent at most parts counters today.

My 3/4 ton Dana 44 has the tie rod ends that go into the knuckle from the top with the 'castle' nut on the bottom side.

I need you early 4x4 experts to come to the rescue please. Even the correct GM part numbers would be great so I can cross reference them to a MOOG or TRW.

Thanks,
72longbed

full foot notch · 05-03-2005, 10:41 PM

im going by your profile guessing its for a C10, but the first question is is it for a K10 or C10, and then whats the engine size/vin code, just in case the suspension is different, i think its either H,E,A, or B in the vin

1969 GMC · 05-03-2005, 11:56 PM

umm he just said its for a 3/4 ton dana 44, engine size has no bearing on tie rod ends. you sound just like one of the ppl at the parts counter...lol!

*72longbed* · 05-04-2005, 04:02 AM

Thats what happens when I go to these places like Advance, AutoZone, or National parts stores. The pre-pubesent computer 'geek' that yesterday was the slickest 'gamer' on his block, is now put in charge of selling auto parts to the general public.

They don't look at you, they can't READ, they don't LISTEN to you at all, the only thing they know is whats on the computer screen!! I've been told by a couple of these EINSTEINS that Chevy didn't make a 4x4 in 1971 because his computer didn't show it!!

And then there's the VIN 'aholic, yea the 'parts' guy who can't find his underwear in the morning without a freakin' VIN number!! The VIN number on a 1971 K20 doesn't tell you a damn thing about the trucks TIE ROD ENDS!! Oh, and I don't think they put that many Dana 44's in 2WD trucks back then but I could be wrong......

Ok, enough 'venting'. As my original Post says, the info I need is for a 1971 K20, that simple. Seriously, it's THAT FREAKIN' SIMPLE, all you need to know is 1971 K20, thats why I love these trucks. Things such as 'body code' or 'paint code' or 'engine code' or VIN # are all irrelavant ellaborations of the "I know nothing but what the computer screen says" generation of computer addicted ROBOTS. (I think I just 'vented' again, oops.)

These computer programs used today in auto parts stores were originally just a method of marketing (selling) USELESS at the time, and still quite inadequite today, computers and software to the auto parts industry in the mid 80's. The real USEFUL and ACCURATE resource, printed manuals, were left on the shelf to rot because its easier for people to push keys on a keyboard than to open a heavy book, turn the pages, READ THE WORDS, and help the customer! (OOPS, vented again)

I am grateful for any attempts to help me on this, and don't want to seem nasty. It's just frustrating sometimes. 1971 K20, thats all, (except for the optional factory Northrop Jet Turbine, Johnny!) I sometimes f#&k with these kids heads.

72longbed

4x4Poet · 05-04-2005, 07:15 AM

Rockauto.com shows Moog ES375R & ES375L, but that's just from a year, make, and model search, so don't depend on my info.

Try it yourself. Go to Rockauto.com, wait for catalog to initialize, click Chevrolet, click 1971, click 5.7L 350 (why not?), click K20 Pickup, click steering, click tie rod. I think I remembered each step. You'll figure it out. They list the Moog parts by brand name and part #, as far as I can tell. $47.79, BTW.

**Phuloi68** · 05-04-2005, 09:31 AM

moog ES375R (right) gm 45a0062
moog ES375L (left) gm 45a0061
also:
at pitman arm moog ES2027L 6.34"
adjusting sleeve ES362S
at steering arm moog ES2026R 8.34"

wanted · 05-04-2005, 10:11 AM

I go through your problem too frequently. The problem is all the good local parts stores can't compete with the chains. So they either close or have to hire idiots themselves to lower their costs. The good parts guys used to get paid a good wage, now you don't see that often so they move on to some other job. My uncle and cousin used to own a parts store and you could just describe what you needed and they usually had in on the shelf but they closed after the BIG chains moved to town.
I had a guy at Checker argue with me about a axel seal. I just took it out and had the old one in my hand. He got the one the computer showed was correct and they were not even close. He said mine was the wrong one!
I almost went ot jail that day.
Thanks, it feels good to vent.

*72longbed* · 05-04-2005, 02:39 PM

Thanks to ALL who helped! You guys are better than the parts stores!!

I Appreciate IT,

72longbed

**402Bowtie** · 05-11-2005, 11:21 AM

I saw this and was wondering if this is what you are looking for....
tie rod

4x4Poet · 05-12-2005, 03:55 AM

402Bowtie, looks like that ebay auction is for a used TRE with an $18 starting bid!

Notice how the threads are covered to hide who knows what.

05-03-2005, 08:49 PM	#1
72longbed Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PA Posts: 1,411	Solving The 4x4 Tie Rod Puzzle?? This has probably been asked before but, here goes again. Who can get me the proper MOOG or TRW part numbers for the 1971 3/4 ton K20 front tie rod ends that attach to the long rod that connects both knuckles together? I have been trying with local parts stores, , and they don't seem to know their 'a$$ from a hole in the ground'. They keep giving the parts for a 2WD front end or the tie rod ends for the draglink. It's sad the lack of talent at most parts counters today. My 3/4 ton Dana 44 has the tie rod ends that go into the knuckle from the top with the 'castle' nut on the bottom side. I need you early 4x4 experts to come to the rescue please. Even the correct GM part numbers would be great so I can cross reference them to a MOOG or TRW. Thanks, 72longbed Last edited by 72longbed; 05-04-2005 at 04:17 AM.

05-03-2005, 11:56 PM	#3
1969 GMC Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: The Rubber City Posts: 5,498	umm he just said its for a 3/4 ton dana 44, engine size has no bearing on tie rod ends. you sound just like one of the ppl at the parts counter...lol! __________________ 1969 GMC K2500 1996 Honda Accord 2007 Kawasaki KLR 650

05-04-2005, 04:02 AM	#4
72longbed Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PA Posts: 1,411	Frustration..... Thats what happens when I go to these places like Advance, AutoZone, or National parts stores. The pre-pubesent computer 'geek' that yesterday was the slickest 'gamer' on his block, is now put in charge of selling auto parts to the general public. They don't look at you, they can't READ, they don't LISTEN to you at all, the only thing they know is whats on the computer screen!! I've been told by a couple of these EINSTEINS that Chevy didn't make a 4x4 in 1971 because his computer didn't show it!! And then there's the VIN 'aholic, yea the 'parts' guy who can't find his underwear in the morning without a freakin' VIN number!! The VIN number on a 1971 K20 doesn't tell you a damn thing about the trucks TIE ROD ENDS!! Oh, and I don't think they put that many Dana 44's in 2WD trucks back then but I could be wrong...... Ok, enough 'venting'. As my original Post says, the info I need is for a 1971 K20, that simple. Seriously, it's THAT FREAKIN' SIMPLE, all you need to know is 1971 K20, thats why I love these trucks. Things such as 'body code' or 'paint code' or 'engine code' or VIN # are all irrelavant ellaborations of the "I know nothing but what the computer screen says" generation of computer addicted ROBOTS. (I think I just 'vented' again, oops.) These computer programs used today in auto parts stores were originally just a method of marketing (selling) USELESS at the time, and still quite inadequite today, computers and software to the auto parts industry in the mid 80's. The real USEFUL and ACCURATE resource, printed manuals, were left on the shelf to rot because its easier for people to push keys on a keyboard than to open a heavy book, turn the pages, READ THE WORDS, and help the customer! (OOPS, vented again) I am grateful for any attempts to help me on this, and don't want to seem nasty. It's just frustrating sometimes. 1971 K20, thats all, (except for the optional factory Northrop Jet Turbine, Johnny!) I sometimes f#&k with these kids heads. 72longbed Last edited by 72longbed; 05-04-2005 at 04:13 AM.

05-04-2005, 07:15 AM	#5
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	Rockauto.com shows Moog ES375R & ES375L, but that's just from a year, make, and model search, so don't depend on my info. Try it yourself. Go to Rockauto.com, wait for catalog to initialize, click Chevrolet, click 1971, click 5.7L 350 (why not?), click K20 Pickup, click steering, click tie rod. I think I remembered each step. You'll figure it out. They list the Moog parts by brand name and part #, as far as I can tell. $47.79, BTW. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

05-04-2005, 09:31 AM	#6
Phuloi68 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Valparaiso, In Posts: 1,114	moog ES375R (right) gm 45a0062 moog ES375L (left) gm 45a0061 also: at pitman arm moog ES2027L 6.34" adjusting sleeve ES362S at steering arm moog ES2026R 8.34" __________________ Phuloi68 Indy survivor Norwood survivor Big Sandy survivor for those who fight for it... F R E E D O M has a price the protected will never know. Last edited by Phuloi68; 05-04-2005 at 09:32 AM.

05-03-2005, 10:41 PM	#2
full foot notch Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Central florida Posts: 3,223	im going by your profile guessing its for a C10, but the first question is is it for a K10 or C10, and then whats the engine size/vin code, just in case the suspension is different, i think its either H,E,A, or B in the vin

05-04-2005, 10:11 AM	#7
wanted Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: duluth, mn Posts: 63	I go through your problem too frequently. The problem is all the good local parts stores can't compete with the chains. So they either close or have to hire idiots themselves to lower their costs. The good parts guys used to get paid a good wage, now you don't see that often so they move on to some other job. My uncle and cousin used to own a parts store and you could just describe what you needed and they usually had in on the shelf but they closed after the BIG chains moved to town. I had a guy at Checker argue with me about a axel seal. I just took it out and had the old one in my hand. He got the one the computer showed was correct and they were not even close. He said mine was the wrong one! I almost went ot jail that day. Thanks, it feels good to vent.

05-04-2005, 02:39 PM	#8
72longbed Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PA Posts: 1,411	Thank You!! Thanks to ALL who helped! You guys are better than the parts stores!! I Appreciate IT, 72longbed

05-11-2005, 11:21 AM	#9
402Bowtie Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Wichita, KS Posts: 3,735	I saw this and was wondering if this is what you are looking for.... tie rod

05-12-2005, 03:55 AM	#10
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	402Bowtie, looks like that ebay auction is for a used TRE with an $18 starting bid! Notice how the threads are covered to hide who knows what. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.



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