The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-13-2005, 10:45 PM   #1
Purs
Got Big Block?
 
Purs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: West Texas
Posts: 1,510
Proper way to mini-tub

Is it as simple as it looks? Those that have done this, can you tell how much I need to cut? Some pictures would be great! It looks like I can go all the way to the bumpstop, is that right? I have an extra set wheel tubs to make up the space, do I need anything else? I'd like to keep this as "original" looking (inside the bed) as possible. thanks for any advice.
__________________
"Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."
Purs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2005, 08:28 AM   #2
MOTHERTRUCKERS
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: BRADENTON FLA
Posts: 3,269
If its coil spring you can only tub as wide as the frame rails allow, lay a 2foot level flat against the frame and mark the bed floor and add 1 inch. Leaf spring trucks would be a waste of time because the springs sit outsie the rails, But to gain a couple of inches you can use boxing plates and move the perches to the inside of the frame by using the left perches on the right and right on the left.
__________________
Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.
MOTHERTRUCKERS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2005, 09:29 AM   #3
Purs
Got Big Block?
 
Purs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: West Texas
Posts: 1,510
sorry, should have said this is a short wide bed with a coil spring rear. Mothertruckers, by add an inch, did you mean cut an extra inch to the inside of the bed or leave an extra inch toward the outside of the bed?
__________________
"Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."
Purs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2005, 10:53 AM   #4
SCOTI
Registered User
 
SCOTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,946
You can go all the way to the frame if you eliminate the bumpstop. That's about enough room for a 14" wide wheel.

A spare set of tubs works easiest to widen or cut & add a strip to your current tubs.
Attached Images
     
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
SCOTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2005, 10:58 AM   #5
c-1072
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: rochester NY
Posts: 777
Sweet

Thats hot nice work i love the custome stock look .
c-1072 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2005, 01:10 PM   #6
Purs
Got Big Block?
 
Purs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: West Texas
Posts: 1,510
what he said! thanks for the pics SCOTI
__________________
"Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."
Purs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2005, 08:25 AM   #7
MOTHERTRUCKERS
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: BRADENTON FLA
Posts: 3,269
Add the inch on the inside.
__________________
Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.
MOTHERTRUCKERS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2005, 04:02 PM   #8
PICKMUP
"Trucks with Class"
 
PICKMUP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: OLYMPIA, WA, USA
Posts: 8,125
Scott: That is really nice work. Right down to the detailed flanges that bolt in like stock.
Will you please come work on my truck?
__________________
Email: frankeham@comcast.net
Phone: 360-956-7170
PICKMUP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2005, 05:30 PM   #9
SCOTI
Registered User
 
SCOTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,946
I know people that have awesome skills & took the time to help me.

I was the chief metal bender but let a pro do the welding because I wanted minimal distortion. I'm decent w/a MIG, but I suck when it comes to TIG welding (I really haven't had much practice & didn't want to start my learning curve on this project).

I did the floor mods as well & had another friend weld it all up for the same reasons.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
SCOTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2005, 09:03 PM   #10
72MARIO
Registered User
 
72MARIO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada
Posts: 4,052
So do you still have that truck ? What happening with the progress? Looks like alot of metal work involved. Raised bed floor. Nice.
__________________
1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017
1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck
1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck"
2005 TAHOE DD
72MARIO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2005, 12:04 AM   #11
SCOTI
Registered User
 
SCOTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,946
Quote:
Originally Posted by 72MARIO
So do you still have that truck ? What happening with the progress? Looks like alot of metal work involved. Raised bed floor. Nice.
Yep. I still have it & contrary to the belief of many, it will be completed.

I'm not satisfied w/the frame & how it turned out so I got another untouched swb frame to re-engineer all the mods over.

Backround: My original c-section was crudely done in exchange for some labor for the guy on his sprint car. Although functional, it was crude. I decided to get it re-worked by a 'pro' rod-shop for a more professional look & for engineering strength as well in preparation for the dyno proven 500+hp big block that was built for it. But, that shop basically did their work on top of the other guys work. So now it's their work over his, & when I started setting up the frame @ ride height, I discovered they centered the 'c' when the truck was above ride height making the c-section non-functional (the rear housing hits the frame).

My choices were to 'fix' something that's already been patched, or do it like I want so I decided to start over again.

I'm still working out the details on the front suspension so it will drive w/o issue @ the slammed height I want. I haven't decided whether to utilize the stock steering box or switch to R&P for a cleaner look. Once I get that squared away, I'll do the rear the way I wanted it done in the first place . . . .... the right way.

Good eye on the bed floor BTW. Those pics were taken after I was mocking it up when trying to decide on wether or not to bodydrop it. I decided against the bodydrop because the rockers are already about even w/the bottom of the frame rails as built by GM.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
SCOTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:57 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com