Soda Blasted!

[HuggerCST]

Picked up my hood and bedside from the soda blaster last night. I was happy with the results. Nothing like clean metal to work with!

[70c10]

Looks good!. I just saw an ad today for a mobile blastic company that will come to you. You don't have to quote a price but is it an expensive process?.

[HuggerCST]

The man that blasted it for me is a friend of mine, and he gave me a smokin' deal,($100 total), but normally he charges $75 per fender(outside), up to like $150 for a bedside if I'm not mistaken. He is also mobile, but charges $50 plus mileage if he has to travel.

[nu2-72]

If it is truly soda, make sure it is very clean before continuing. A local body shop owner here had a bed blasted and the soda is caustic if not cleaned out of every crack and crevis. Down the road it will promote rust.
Not saying yours will but precautions need to be taken to have a lasting job. Yours looks great so far.

[70c10]

Thanks Hugger, can you explain the process a little bit?

[HuggerCST]

nu2-72- thanks for the tip, I'll do that. He said that he washes the parts with water after he is through, but I will rewash them. It sounds like a pretty neat process, but I wasn't able to stay and watch. It won't hurt chrome or glass, but removes all the paint without removing or distorting the metal. As you can see, the discolored spots are still there where there was rust. He said that I could just sand the discolored spots and prime over them, but it sure would be hard to do. I will probably grind, sandblast, or cut those spots out. I have some pinholes in the rear lower bedside to cut out anyway. He also said that it is not likely to rust easily while bare, because the "pores in the metal aren't open". He said that he has left blasted parts outside for a week without them rusting.

[cdowns]

looks good , like was said clean it and then clean it again and b-4 painting it clean it one more time to make sure all microscopic traces are gone

i'd think about it twice b-4 paying anytype of blaster to come to my house!!! think about it he's chargeing you extra to come to your place and leaving the mess behind??? i'd think that would be a substantial discount , not an additional fee. just my opinion!!!

[Alan Potter]

Yea, had them out to my house to blast the frame....what a mess to clean up. And not the greatest blasting job either. Wouldn't hire them again.

[StingRay]

If you use a metal prep on the parts wich is really a phosphoric acid it will neautralize any soda residue left over. When I had my cab done I used a leaf blower and compressed air to blow out everything I could. I vacuumed out any openings I could get too, washed with water then straight phosphoric acid (diluted) and then phosphoric acid with zinc. That cab has been sitting for 4 years in the shop with no flash rusting. The zinc phosphate left behind is quite corrosion inhibiting. It will get acid washed a time or two more and DA sanded prior to final sealing.

[incoma]

like stingray says - that phosphate wash is common in powder coating shops. That's what they used before they powdercoated my chassis.

I double the note on the soda too. Be sure to wash it off good, otherwise it will make your new paint peel.

[4x4Poet]

I've found that when I wash bare sheet metal, if I blow it dry immediately afterwards, it won't flash rust or rust rust if then left inside. I bet POR15's Marine Clean would do a great job cleaning before following up with zinc phosphate (as was said, great idea).

For the rust still in the sheet metal, would Eastwood's Rust EnCapsulator work to serve as something that will stick to the rust and provide a base for the primer sealer? Or does the rust have rough spots that need sanding anyway? Perhaps sand, then "encapsulate what rust remains?"

[GSFMECH]

That looks good Wynne. I agree on the phosphoric acid. I have had good luck with Ospho (sp) you can pick it up at Ace hardware. I have used it a lot on old tractors, but you need to follow the directions if you use this stuff. When it drys it will have a powdery residue left on it. All you have to do then is remove the loose stuff with a scuff pad and you are ready to go (at least is what I do on the tractors). I like stingrays idea with the zinc too.

[nu2-72]

This board is great. You get to see someone elses project, learn new stuff, share ideas and experience, get tips from the "pros" (sometimes someone that learned the hard way) and get the info needed to properly plan out your own project for the best short and long term results. Thanks guys.

[LUV2XCLR8]