06-02-2005, 04:52 PM | #1 |
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Brake gurus!?
Alright guys (n gals) I just finished the heavy parts on my recent rear disk (among other things done) swap. Problem is the pedal is low and squishy, and I'm not getting near the amount of fluid when bleading from the rear as the fronts. I recall something about a button on the proportioning valve that has to be depressed? I know theres air in the system just need to get it out so I can go have some fun. Already missed the holiday weekend with the K5 cause of this, don't want to miss any more fun stuff. HELP ME!
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06-02-2005, 05:00 PM | #2 |
Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires
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A stock proportioning valve may not work with a disk brake rear. It may be sending too much fulid up front and not enough out back. I've never done this before, but that would be my guess. Did you buy a kit for the rear brakes? Was there an option to buy a proportioning valve?
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06-02-2005, 05:04 PM | #3 |
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master cylinder.
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06-02-2005, 05:05 PM | #4 |
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Forgot to say this is on my '72 K5 4wd, I just converted the front 44 to 8 lug, replaced the 12 bolt with a rear Dana 60 and the disks from a front end.
Heres some pictures to get the jucies flowing. Furd Dana 60 with brake rotors and calipers off a front 3/4 ton Dana 44 GM. Installed, just need to blead... I'm going to order up a '72 3/4 ton brake booster and possibly a prop. valve. But I really wanted to get the thing working first so I could start fresh. |
06-02-2005, 06:02 PM | #6 |
Mike
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: west chester pa
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The stock "proportioning valve"is a combination valve.It regulates the flow of the brake fluid,so that the front discs don't grab until the rear shoes contact the drum,works the brake light,and regulates how much fluid gets to the rear to prevent lock-up of the rear brakes.As far as the button,it is on the front of the valve.It needs to be depressed while bleeding the front brakes.
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06-02-2005, 06:10 PM | #7 |
Mike
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Here is a little "trouble shooting tips" reading for You...http://www.tsmmfg.com/Troubleshootin...0light%20pedal Read about the residual valve,gravity bleeding and spongy brakes.I think there is a valve in the master for the rear brakes.
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70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires Last edited by smokekiki; 06-02-2005 at 06:13 PM. |
06-02-2005, 08:03 PM | #8 |
~Rest In Peace~
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get you a glass bottle fill it half way with brake fliud get a piece of hose to fit the bleeder valve place the hose in the bottle crack open the valve have some one pump the brakes up slowly and watch all bubbles in the jar when the bubbles stop and fluid starts to rise close the valve off remove hose then do the left side alway start off futhers away from mastercylinder
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06-02-2005, 08:40 PM | #9 |
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Look on the front of the combo valve for a rubber cap it is over the thingy you depress when bleeding IIRC
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08-09-2005, 03:00 PM | #10 |
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Now revisited, what the hell. I put a 3/4 ton booster on and blead all the air out. Getting the air out turned out to be more of a pain than I thought. I still think theres more in the system but it stops now. Very good upgrade IMO I think the dual diaphram booster should be on all of these trucks.
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08-09-2005, 07:51 PM | #11 |
Its a Truck Thing......
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You have to change the master cyl to one thats for disk/disk setup if you havent already, the resvoirs are different and the diameter of the piston is different. Once you do this and bleed the air out, make sure the rear calipers are in the right position to bleed, you will notice a definate improvement. Also the prop valves are different too.
Smitty
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08-10-2005, 01:35 PM | #12 |
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Maybe 4wd is different my master (now 3/4 ton) is more than capable for the disks. The prop. valve has the residual valve in it for the rear drums, but the rears do not lock up before the fronts so I think I'm OK there as well.
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