Drop Oil Pan??

[squeekyM]

Hi Everyone,

Thanks for the replies on my first post. My truck is leaking very badly from the oil pan and i need to replace the gasket. Is it simply a matter of undoing the motor mounts and lifting the engine a bit to squeeze the pan out? Or is this going to be a bit more complicated then that.

Also, is it possible to do the timing cover separate from the oil pan or is it necessary to do both at the same time. I was planning on doing the oil pan gasket now, and the front cover a few weeks from now. Is this possible without ruining the oil pan gasket. Thanks for all the help. Take care.
- Jerry

[pjmoreland]

As long as you don't have an exhaust y-pipe blocking the bottom of the oil pan, then it should be a matter of lifting the engine a little.

I would definitely recommend doing the oil pan gasket and the timing cover at the same time. The oil pan overlaps the timing cover, so it is very difficult to remove the timing cover without lowering the front of the oil pan. It's fine to replace the oil pan gasket without removing the timing cover, but the other way around is a bit more tricky.

[tomatocity]

If your engine has not been converted the timing cover also has the front seal retainer attached. The pan has to be dropped low enough to clear the oil pump and pickup.

Make sure the oil pan is good before you reinstall it. Good = level, not twisted, oil plug threads not stripped. This is your chance to chnage to a different pan for show or go. I have an finned aluminum pan on an engine I built in 1998 that has never been in a vehicle. The oil pan sort of matches the Chevy finned aluminum valve covers. These pans do not twist and should always hold their shape. -Tim

Originally Posted by squeekyM

Hi Everyone,

Thanks for the replies on my first post. My truck is leaking very badly from the oil pan and i need to replace the gasket. Is it simply a matter of undoing the motor mounts and lifting the engine a bit to squeeze the pan out? Or is this going to be a bit more complicated then that.

Also, is it possible to do the timing cover separate from the oil pan or is it necessary to do both at the same time. I was planning on doing the oil pan gasket now, and the front cover a few weeks from now. Is this possible without ruining the oil pan gasket. Thanks for all the help. Take care.
- Jerry

[fastwillie 696969]

if you do a oil pan you might want to change to a two piece timing cover that way you can change cams and leaky gaskets easier

[mitchfab]

Yank it and go Rat!!!

[powell72]

I would spend the money on a one piece pan gasket so there are no mistakes when you reassemble.

[oldiron]

One other hint. Crank the engine over to the number six firing position on the distributor. This clears the crank journels from hitting the oil pan.

[GMC AMI]

Good tips oldiron and powell72. Are you sure it is not the rear main seal leaking? A very common problem with GM.

[XXL]

{assuming it's a small block}

[squeekyM]

Thanks for all the great help. It's a small block..will that cyl #6 trick really work? Will it still clear the oil pump without undoing the motormounts? I am about 99% the leak is coming from up front. There is oil all over the fuel pump area and along the right fenderwell as well as burning off the pass. side headers.

What has been everyone experiences with one piece oil pan gaskets? Or would it be better to go with a thick OE style? When I first bought this thing it was leaking like a locomotive, water pump was toasted (bearings so bad you could yank on the fan), intake leaks, VC leaks it was a real mess. The last fix on my list is this oil pan gasket. I had already started to pull it apart but on of the motor mount bolt heads was stripped out. I opted to just have a mechanic deal with it since i don't own the proper tools to get in there and deal with a stripped bolt. Please let me know if the #6 cylinder trick works without lifting the engine. Thanks again everyone. Once I get this truck buttoned up I will post some pics.
- Jerry

[72BLAZERDUDE]

I would think about replacing that rear main seal while I had the pan off. Never know when a GM rear main is going to start leaking and my motto is replace any gaskets, seals etc while they are accessible. If I dont they will start leaking in a week no matter how short a time they have been on there. Also take a look at your motor mounts. I guess thats my problem, My wife says that all my "Easy Quick Fixes" turn into major rebuilds. Just cant stand to put it back on dirty and unpainted.

[LUV2XCLR8]

BTW 2 THE BOARD FROM WEST 10-UH-C

[powell72]

The one piece pan gasket from Felpro is a pretty slick set up. It comes with plastic locating pins that screw into the pan bolt holes on the corners. Then you put the gasket up and the pan up and the locaters snap onto the pan to hold it up while you start the bolts.

[Long Roof]

Do you have 2wd or 4wd? I changed a pan on a 4wd and had plenty of clearance. The 2wd is a little more difficult, but with a 350 you should be able to pull the motor mounts and lift it plenty to remove the pan.

Aaron

[squeekyM]

My truck is a 2wd. Can anyone confirm that the having the engine cranked over to fire on cyl #6 would allow enough clearance of the crank to drop the pan without lifting the engine? Thanks for all the help.
- Jerry