Engine Mounts - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

nmaggie99 · 06-29-2005, 12:40 AM

With all the recient talk about using 700R4 and shifting the engine forward a 1.75" to prevent ordering new drive-shafts and for HEI, does anybody have any good pics or diagrams of their modified mounts.

These would be great for the rest of us that way we don't always re-invent the wheel. Thanks

71RestoRod · 06-29-2005, 01:21 AM

You just slide the engine cross member forward in the frame.

I had the frame disassembled before blasting / powdercoating when I did mine, so it was very accessible to say the least. If you look closely at the first picture, the frame is upside down. I flipped the engine cross member over on the outside (bottom) of the frame and lined it up with the original bolt holes. It's symmetrical, so it doesn't matter that with it flipped that the left side is on the right and the right on the left. I then scribed both the frame and the cross member and scooted it forward 1 3/4", clamped it and then drilled new holes using the holes in the cross member as a template.

In the second picture, the frame is right-side up, but the top parts of the engine cross member are now clamped in place after doing the same procedure, (cross member now upside down on top of the frame, scribe and move forward). The main portion of the cross member is removed in this picture after clamping in place to make room to drill the new holes.

Hope this helps. It really beats guessing where the holes need to go. Of course, this technique would be a little more difficult with the frame still on the truck...

Edit: I just remembered that there were already two holes in the frame that were pretty close to the new location... but too far off for my liking. I ended up welding up those holes and drilling new ones. You might be able to get away with using the existing forward holes, but I think that the mounts would be tweeked with it bolted up. Maybe someone else can chime in...

BobbyK · 06-29-2005, 07:16 PM

Yup,I just drilled new holes.I think 1 or 2 orig. holes I was able to use but that's it.

wingman · 06-29-2005, 08:45 PM

Home much room does everyone else have between their distributor and the fire wall. I know mine is pretty darn close (HEI) like an inch. But then again somewhere along the road some idiot PO swapped out my 465/205 combo for a 350/203.... It just seems like mine is really far back though. And it makes it about im possible to check and add transmission fluid.

06-29-2005, 12:40 AM	#1
nmaggie99 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Anchorage, AK Posts: 15	Engine Mounts With all the recient talk about using 700R4 and shifting the engine forward a 1.75" to prevent ordering new drive-shafts and for HEI, does anybody have any good pics or diagrams of their modified mounts. These would be great for the rest of us that way we don't always re-invent the wheel. Thanks __________________ '02 2500 Cummins SWB 4X4 '85 C-10 SWB '72 Short Step '72 Blazer 2wd '72 Blazer 4X4 '67 Short Step

06-29-2005, 01:21 AM	#2
71RestoRod Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Evergreen, CO Posts: 492	You just slide the engine cross member forward in the frame. I had the frame disassembled before blasting / powdercoating when I did mine, so it was very accessible to say the least. If you look closely at the first picture, the frame is upside down. I flipped the engine cross member over on the outside (bottom) of the frame and lined it up with the original bolt holes. It's symmetrical, so it doesn't matter that with it flipped that the left side is on the right and the right on the left. I then scribed both the frame and the cross member and scooted it forward 1 3/4", clamped it and then drilled new holes using the holes in the cross member as a template. In the second picture, the frame is right-side up, but the top parts of the engine cross member are now clamped in place after doing the same procedure, (cross member now upside down on top of the frame, scribe and move forward). The main portion of the cross member is removed in this picture after clamping in place to make room to drill the new holes. Hope this helps. It really beats guessing where the holes need to go. Of course, this technique would be a little more difficult with the frame still on the truck... Edit: I just remembered that there were already two holes in the frame that were pretty close to the new location... but too far off for my liking. I ended up welding up those holes and drilling new ones. You might be able to get away with using the existing forward holes, but I think that the mounts would be tweeked with it bolted up. Maybe someone else can chime in... Attached Images __________________ 71 Blazer / GMPP ZZ383 / MPFI / 700R4 / 4-Wheel Disk / Ground-up frame off almost completed resto-mod Last edited by 71RestoRod; 06-29-2005 at 01:26 AM.

06-29-2005, 07:16 PM	#3
BobbyK Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,Mi. Posts: 1,772	Yup,I just drilled new holes.I think 1 or 2 orig. holes I was able to use but that's it. __________________ 71 blazer,350SBC,approx.375HP,700R4,factory GM TPI.Dual electric fans,33x12.5x15 ATR on stock suspension. Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,MI. See ALL my Blazer pic's HERE

06-29-2005, 08:45 PM	#4
wingman Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 41	Home much room does everyone else have between their distributor and the fire wall. I know mine is pretty darn close (HEI) like an inch. But then again somewhere along the road some idiot PO swapped out my 465/205 combo for a 350/203.... It just seems like mine is really far back though. And it makes it about im possible to check and add transmission fluid.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.