replacing wheel studs - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

TruckinDaddy · 07-03-2005, 07:39 PM

How hard is it to replace the studs on a stock drum setup?

I bought a set of 15x7 slot wheels from a board member, but I never thought about the stock studs being too short to work with the new wheels. I think I need to have studs that are at least 1 1/2 inches, bu the stock are only 13/16th of an inch long. Now I am unsure if it is worth the trouble.

Thanks for any input.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 07-03-2005, 07:51 PM

I have found the studs to be very easy to replace. If you hit the studs straight on with a hammer they drive out easily, usually one blow is all that is needed. To install the new studs, align the splines of the stud to the splines formed in the hub. With the stud stuck in the hole put a greased up washer over the stud and turn one of your lug nuts over with the tapered side out. Make sure the threads are well greased and using an impact wrench, pull the stud through by tightening the nut.

This method has always worked well for me and I have replaced dozens.

Jim

neonlarry · 07-03-2005, 08:15 PM

^ That will work fine, I cheat I use a press.

TruckinDaddy · 07-03-2005, 11:37 PM

Well that gives me a little hope. At least it can be done. Don't know yet if I WANT to do it, though...

70 shorty · 07-04-2005, 08:30 AM

Done it many times driving out the studs with at hammer. No big deal. Then, do exactly as JimK says to pull the new stud tight.

purple gas · 07-04-2005, 11:54 PM

I'd do it if you have any doubts. New studs are Cheap. It's any easy thing to do and you have nice clean threads to put you nuts on. New nuts at the same time isn't a lot of cash either. I did it and am glad I did. Just make sure there're tight before you go for any land speed records. After you've done it you can laugh at the clowns you see running with missing studs. ( I saw a chevette that only had 2 and the lady was driving in the country with the car)

69 Short Fleet · 07-05-2005, 01:55 AM

I respectfully DISAGREE!!! With the method of tightening the lugnut to pull the stud through the drum to get it to "seat" into place. I'm not trying to start an argument with anyone but doing it this way can put MAJOR pulling force on the shank (threads)of the stud itself and cause it to become weak. The integrity of the stud can be effected causing it to fail. Bring them to a shop (or if you know someone with a hydraulic press) and get them pressed in. Regards Doug

TruckinDaddy · 07-05-2005, 10:08 AM

Hey 69 Short Fleet, that is why I post here, to find out ways to get these things done. Sometimes I want the quickest, sometimes the safest. Thanks for the advice. I am a little leary of trying this myself anyways, so I'll shop around.

blazerparts · 07-05-2005, 10:24 AM

Does seating the stud exert more tension than tightening the lug nut when the rim is on?

69 Short Fleet · 07-06-2005, 02:34 AM

-TruckinDaddy. I used to install the studs that way myself until I learned different from a qualified tire & wheel tech.
-blazerparts. Yes they can, the amount of torque needed to get them to seat often far exceeds what the stud is rated for, not in every single case as sometimes they will go in fairly easy. You shd. also install the lugnuts & torque them in a simular way you would torque a cylinder head (you guys prolly already know this anyway). I'm in no way an expert on tires and wheels... but just thought I'd share. Doug

07-03-2005, 07:39 PM	#1
TruckinDaddy What's that funky smell? Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 610	replacing wheel studs How hard is it to replace the studs on a stock drum setup? I bought a set of 15x7 slot wheels from a board member, but I never thought about the stock studs being too short to work with the new wheels. I think I need to have studs that are at least 1 1/2 inches, bu the stock are only 13/16th of an inch long. Now I am unsure if it is worth the trouble. Thanks for any input. __________________ Mike S 68 C10 Long Step (Pretending to be a Long Fleetside) Grandpa's Farm Truck 3 on the tree, 307, No power brakes or steering Factory Options - HD rear spring and Ammeter/Oil Gauges My truck blog My Car Domain page

07-03-2005, 08:15 PM	#3
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	^ That will work fine, I cheat I use a press. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

07-03-2005, 11:37 PM	#4
TruckinDaddy What's that funky smell? Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 610	Well that gives me a little hope. At least it can be done. Don't know yet if I WANT to do it, though... __________________ Mike S 68 C10 Long Step (Pretending to be a Long Fleetside) Grandpa's Farm Truck 3 on the tree, 307, No power brakes or steering Factory Options - HD rear spring and Ammeter/Oil Gauges My truck blog My Car Domain page

07-04-2005, 08:30 AM	#5
70 shorty Where's my beer? Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Glen Allen, VA Posts: 1,772	Done it many times driving out the studs with at hammer. No big deal. Then, do exactly as JimK says to pull the new stud tight. __________________ 70 C10, shortstep, .30 over 250,Hurst shifted 3 spd parts hauler. Holley 390, Clifford Intake, Header, ported cylinder head, unknown bigger cam. 79 Corvette L82, 4 spd, black, red interior, headers, flowmasters, and unkown bigger cam. '03 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0 4x4 daily driver. 165K miles, and runs great '08 Tahoe LTZ 4x4 155K

07-04-2005, 11:54 PM	#6
purple gas Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: saskatoon, planet earth Posts: 694	I'd do it if you have any doubts. New studs are Cheap. It's any easy thing to do and you have nice clean threads to put you nuts on. New nuts at the same time isn't a lot of cash either. I did it and am glad I did. Just make sure there're tight before you go for any land speed records. After you've done it you can laugh at the clowns you see running with missing studs. ( I saw a chevette that only had 2 and the lady was driving in the country with the car) __________________ I got a bench seat baby, you don't have to sit over there.

07-03-2005, 07:51 PM	#2
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	I have found the studs to be very easy to replace. If you hit the studs straight on with a hammer they drive out easily, usually one blow is all that is needed. To install the new studs, align the splines of the stud to the splines formed in the hub. With the stud stuck in the hole put a greased up washer over the stud and turn one of your lug nuts over with the tapered side out. Make sure the threads are well greased and using an impact wrench, pull the stud through by tightening the nut. This method has always worked well for me and I have replaced dozens. Jim

07-05-2005, 01:55 AM	#7
69 Short Fleet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada Posts: 1,086	I respectfully DISAGREE!!! With the method of tightening the lugnut to pull the stud through the drum to get it to "seat" into place. I'm not trying to start an argument with anyone but doing it this way can put MAJOR pulling force on the shank (threads)of the stud itself and cause it to become weak. The integrity of the stud can be effected causing it to fail. Bring them to a shop (or if you know someone with a hydraulic press) and get them pressed in. Regards Doug

07-05-2005, 10:08 AM	#8
TruckinDaddy What's that funky smell? Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 610	Hey 69 Short Fleet, that is why I post here, to find out ways to get these things done. Sometimes I want the quickest, sometimes the safest. Thanks for the advice. I am a little leary of trying this myself anyways, so I'll shop around. __________________ Mike S 68 C10 Long Step (Pretending to be a Long Fleetside) Grandpa's Farm Truck 3 on the tree, 307, No power brakes or steering Factory Options - HD rear spring and Ammeter/Oil Gauges My truck blog My Car Domain page

07-05-2005, 10:24 AM	#9
blazerparts No,I DON'T have Tourett's Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Reno, NV Posts: 556	Does seating the stud exert more tension than tightening the lug nut when the rim is on? __________________ '72 K5 CST 350/350 Daily Driver '69 GMC3500 Camper Special CST Flatbed 396/400 Upgraded to show truck '69 GMC 2500 L6292, 3spd beater

07-06-2005, 02:34 AM	#10
69 Short Fleet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada Posts: 1,086	-TruckinDaddy. I used to install the studs that way myself until I learned different from a qualified tire & wheel tech. -blazerparts. Yes they can, the amount of torque needed to get them to seat often far exceeds what the stud is rated for, not in every single case as sometimes they will go in fairly easy. You shd. also install the lugnuts & torque them in a simular way you would torque a cylinder head (you guys prolly already know this anyway). I'm in no way an expert on tires and wheels... but just thought I'd share. Doug



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