Lifting an 82 K5...first timer. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

hAetWagon · 07-06-2005, 05:13 PM

I'd do a search to avoid hassling you veterans. But I am about to order what I need. I want to do a 6" lift (I'll probably do a 3" Body lift as well.)
The kit I am looking at has front leafs,rear blocks (will be replaced later for offroading) brake lines and all hardware.
I need shocks and a transfer case drop. That much I know.
what am I forgetting? I think a drag link was mentioned somewhere. If someone could make a list that would be helpful.
Please understand that this is for looks at the moment more than offroad performance until I can afford to break a few parts. While I'd love to get absolutely everything all at once this is going to be on an "as I can get it " basis. What is important to get it up in the air ?

Americanrider · 07-06-2005, 09:55 PM

Check the parts boards on Pirate4x4.com also. They have a large member base in Cali.

**JIMs70GMC** · 07-06-2005, 10:42 PM

Give us a little more info about your truck, tranny/transfer case, I'll assume 10 bolt front and 10 or 12 bolt rear(I believe 12 bolt) and gearing.
Your talking 9" total lift. If you jump out with the 6" suspension, leaves up front and do a shackle flip and two inch block in the rear. Get longer brake lines. That's good but as soon as you throw larger tires under her, you'll need to look at gearing then steering upgrades. That's lower gears and cross over steering. Then depending on your wheeling you might want to up grade your rear axle at a minimum. The list goes on. But I will say this jumping out with that much lift and big tires(38+) with 3.08 or 3.73 gearing and you will not have much fun.

hAetWagon · 07-07-2005, 12:04 AM

Understood. 38's are a ways away for the time being. Foundation first.
I was going to hold off on this til I moved back to Florida but some suspension components need replaced as is. No sense being there and not doing what I want while it's ripped apart. Thanks for the feedback.

**JIMs70GMC** · 07-07-2005, 06:33 AM

When you do the front springs, replace the bushing in the frame at the shackle end, too. Also when dropping the transfer case, go back and check the fan clearance in the fan shroud and look for interference between the motor and firewall, basically your pivioting your drive train on the motor mounts.

bringit · 07-07-2005, 06:53 AM

You will need lowering brakets or new breather lines for your axel.

2wdBlazer · 07-07-2005, 08:42 AM

I would recommend U-joints on both ends of the steering shaft if you go with a 3 inch body lift. LOts of angle there. I recomend the Borgeson with vibration dampner if you get large tires.

hAetWagon · 07-07-2005, 06:56 PM

No body lift at the moment.
What the hell are Breather lines for an axle?

**JIMs70GMC** · 07-07-2005, 07:28 PM

Breather lines run from the axle up to the inside of the frame rail. does the same as the breathers on a manual tranny or transfer case. allows the axle to breath/balance pressure.

tedfrk · 07-07-2005, 09:03 PM

if your worried about money i would just go with 6" front springs and a dropped pitman arm,in the rear i would go with 4" blocks and the thick add a leaf.this setup will make your truck sit nice and level. and of course longer drive shafts,they can lengthen yours unless you have a two piece rear,then you have to get one made.if this is your first lifted truck i would not go much higher then 36" tires,and forget about the body lift.save some money and get a couple of lockers if your worried about getting stuck.

hAetWagon · 07-08-2005, 05:11 AM

I bought a 6" skyjacker kit from Summit complete with brake lines and whatnot.
Driveshaft.....yer f'ing kidding me.
I had figured that since it hadn't been mentioned yet I was good to go.
If necessary how much should I expect to pay to get a proper D/s?
:swear:

bouncytruck · 07-08-2005, 11:21 AM

You don't always need to extend the drive shafts with a 6" lift. I've heard getting the driveshaft lengthened runs around $100.

Does the skyjacker kit have springs or blocks in the back? Did you get shocks with it too?

Post some pictures of your install.

hAetWagon · 07-08-2005, 11:21 PM

Yes I have shocks...it comes with blocks in the rear for the meantime. I will be going to leafs in the future. I will be taking a ton of pics.

hAetWagon · 07-09-2005, 09:35 PM

I guess this thread will be ongoing and will act as a journal of sorts.
Will 38's fit under a 6" lift w/o a body lift?

jakeslim · 07-10-2005, 02:27 AM

i run 38's with a 6 " lift and no body cutting. Also, I did not need to extend my driveshafts nor did I drop my xfer case. No issues for a couple years now. Since your not planning on running heavy offroad use, you should be ok.

hAetWagon · 07-10-2005, 03:06 AM

Thanks Jake. That's really good f'in news.

hAetWagon · 07-15-2005, 03:35 AM

Ok stage one of my Blazer lift has been completed.
I have to say that my experience with Summit and/or Skyjacker this time around has left me a little purturbed.
The Lift actually went very well. (the process itself) I was a little rushed and I had to borrow a lot of tools from the guys at the dealership but if I had to do it over again it would go very easily.
The U-bolts up front actually spun right off no problem.
Here are my issues.
The damn kit showed up without Brakelines and the rear Add-a-leaf.
So I will have to break down the rear again to put the leaf in. (thankfully I will just have to unbolt the U's alone this time.
I now have a clue what all you guys are talking about.
One of the things that is NOT optional is a f#%@in raised steering arm/dropped pitman.
(skyjacker part #ca100)
the damn truck only turns left until I get one.
Also ...the exhaust pipe routed directly underneath the front drive shaft has to be modified(in this case cut the F@#k off til further notice)
Breather lines do have to be replaced.
It was fun. In a sick depraved kind of way; but still fun.
pics to follow.

**JIMs70GMC** · 07-15-2005, 06:24 AM

Quote:

the damn truck only turns left until I get one.

You can adjust the drag link to facilitate right turns. You'll just have to adjust it again after you get the raised steering arm.

hAetWagon · 07-15-2005, 10:21 AM

Dude that drag link was going nowhere.you loosen the clamps and turn the sleeve right? Nope. wasn't budging and I was outta time.

**JIMs70GMC** · 07-15-2005, 10:30 AM

wd 40. go ahead and by new ends about $30 for both.

hAetWagon · 07-15-2005, 12:33 PM

Did the wd40 thing. I had a pipe wrench on it. I'm not what you would call a little guy either. that whole damn thing needs to be replaced.

hAetWagon · 07-15-2005, 03:47 PM

Update from Summit.
I called them 1st thing this morning to find out why I did not receive my brakelines,and my add-a-leafs.
The Answer:
THere have been some discrepancies with the site and the kit contents. They are being corrected but we get calls like this alot.
My response:
"Discrepancies aside;I purchased the kit BECAUSE it was a 6/6 not a 4/6. That is what I paid for. I'd like to get my add-a-leafs.(the brake lineswere in fact just relocation brackets that I have no idea how to use.)
however;I should have bought a steering arm. If you could send me one of those I think we'd be straight. part # sja-ca100...."
He put me on hold then got back on telling me it would be here monday.
Make sure you confirm kit contents with summit before ordering online.
Brock took care of me and turned a potentially volatile situation into a pleasant experience.I will shop there again.

hAetWagon · 07-15-2005, 03:54 PM

Here it is in all it's rattle canned glory. I F#$%in HATED the creme color that it was. So I sprayed it black til I get it sprayed for real.

**HOTFUN** · 07-19-2005, 10:29 AM

I wish someone close to me wanted my 4" lift off my 76 Blazer. It still looks new with the stickers still attached but I want to lower it back to stock height so my wife will quit *****n about riding in it.
Mine has the Tuff Country shock, front spring, rear blocks, and the steering arm leveler.

hAetWagon · 07-19-2005, 01:35 PM

Well I got my steering arm .However I could only get the first cone washer to release in the parking lot...I adjusted the drag link to centerand it works fine til I ca get into the shop again to be able to REALLY swing a BFH.

07-06-2005, 05:13 PM	#1
hAetWagon Schlongbed MEMBER (heh)#15 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 232	Lifting an 82 K5...first timer. I'd do a search to avoid hassling you veterans. But I am about to order what I need. I want to do a 6" lift (I'll probably do a 3" Body lift as well.) The kit I am looking at has front leafs,rear blocks (will be replaced later for offroading) brake lines and all hardware. I need shocks and a transfer case drop. That much I know. what am I forgetting? I think a drag link was mentioned somewhere. If someone could make a list that would be helpful. Please understand that this is for looks at the moment more than offroad performance until I can afford to break a few parts. While I'd love to get absolutely everything all at once this is going to be on an "as I can get it " basis. What is important to get it up in the air ?

07-06-2005, 10:42 PM	#3
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Give us a little more info about your truck, tranny/transfer case, I'll assume 10 bolt front and 10 or 12 bolt rear(I believe 12 bolt) and gearing. Your talking 9" total lift. If you jump out with the 6" suspension, leaves up front and do a shackle flip and two inch block in the rear. Get longer brake lines. That's good but as soon as you throw larger tires under her, you'll need to look at gearing then steering upgrades. That's lower gears and cross over steering. Then depending on your wheeling you might want to up grade your rear axle at a minimum. The list goes on. But I will say this jumping out with that much lift and big tires(38+) with 3.08 or 3.73 gearing and you will not have much fun. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

07-07-2005, 06:33 AM	#5
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	When you do the front springs, replace the bushing in the frame at the shackle end, too. Also when dropping the transfer case, go back and check the fan clearance in the fan shroud and look for interference between the motor and firewall, basically your pivioting your drive train on the motor mounts. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

07-07-2005, 06:53 AM	#6
bringit Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 105	You will need lowering brakets or new breather lines for your axel. __________________ 85 chevy K10 350 crate, headman headers, street avenger carb, accel distrib , rebuilt 700r4, on 33" Super Swamper TSL's, 4 inch Pro Comp lift, shocks, and steel braided brake lines.

07-07-2005, 08:42 AM	#7
2wdBlazer The Blazer King Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Valrico, Fl (Tampa) Posts: 1,213	I would recommend U-joints on both ends of the steering shaft if you go with a 3 inch body lift. LOts of angle there. I recomend the Borgeson with vibration dampner if you get large tires. __________________ 72 2wd Blazer. Its the superbichinest, megacoolinest, superflowinest.

07-06-2005, 09:55 PM	#2
Americanrider Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: NW, WA. Posts: 1,421	Check the parts boards on Pirate4x4.com also. They have a large member base in Cali.

07-07-2005, 12:04 AM	#4
hAetWagon Schlongbed MEMBER (heh)#15 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 232	Understood. 38's are a ways away for the time being. Foundation first. I was going to hold off on this til I moved back to Florida but some suspension components need replaced as is. No sense being there and not doing what I want while it's ripped apart. Thanks for the feedback.

07-07-2005, 06:56 PM	#8
hAetWagon Schlongbed MEMBER (heh)#15 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 232	No body lift at the moment. What the hell are Breather lines for an axle?

07-07-2005, 07:28 PM	#9
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Breather lines run from the axle up to the inside of the frame rail. does the same as the breathers on a manual tranny or transfer case. allows the axle to breath/balance pressure. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

07-07-2005, 09:03 PM	#10
tedfrk Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: forked river nj Posts: 147	if your worried about money i would just go with 6" front springs and a dropped pitman arm,in the rear i would go with 4" blocks and the thick add a leaf.this setup will make your truck sit nice and level. and of course longer drive shafts,they can lengthen yours unless you have a two piece rear,then you have to get one made.if this is your first lifted truck i would not go much higher then 36" tires,and forget about the body lift.save some money and get a couple of lockers if your worried about getting stuck.

07-08-2005, 05:11 AM	#11
hAetWagon Schlongbed MEMBER (heh)#15 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 232	I bought a 6" skyjacker kit from Summit complete with brake lines and whatnot. Driveshaft.....yer f'ing kidding me. I had figured that since it hadn't been mentioned yet I was good to go. If necessary how much should I expect to pay to get a proper D/s? :swear:

07-08-2005, 11:21 AM	#12
bouncytruck SKINNY TIRES RULE! Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Bothell, WA Posts: 11,049	You don't always need to extend the drive shafts with a 6" lift. I've heard getting the driveshaft lengthened runs around $100. Does the skyjacker kit have springs or blocks in the back? Did you get shocks with it too? Post some pictures of your install. __________________ bouncytruck 1972 K5 The Hauler 1994 K1500 Suburban The Daily2010 Kia Soul Wife's Ride2014 Fiat 500L

07-08-2005, 11:21 PM	#13
hAetWagon Schlongbed MEMBER (heh)#15 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 232	Yes I have shocks...it comes with blocks in the rear for the meantime. I will be going to leafs in the future. I will be taking a ton of pics.

07-09-2005, 09:35 PM	#14
hAetWagon Schlongbed MEMBER (heh)#15 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 232	I guess this thread will be ongoing and will act as a journal of sorts. Will 38's fit under a 6" lift w/o a body lift?

07-10-2005, 02:27 AM	#15
jakeslim Premium Level Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Northern CA Posts: 829	i run 38's with a 6 " lift and no body cutting. Also, I did not need to extend my driveshafts nor did I drop my xfer case. No issues for a couple years now. Since your not planning on running heavy offroad use, you should be ok. __________________ 69 K5 CST stock- 350, 4speed 77 K5 - 383, auto, 6" lift, D60 front, 14b rear, 39" tsl's,



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07-10-2005, 03:06 AM	#16
hAetWagon Schlongbed MEMBER (heh)#15 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 232	Thanks Jake. That's really good f'in news.

07-15-2005, 03:35 AM	#17
hAetWagon Schlongbed MEMBER (heh)#15 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 232	Ok stage one of my Blazer lift has been completed. I have to say that my experience with Summit and/or Skyjacker this time around has left me a little purturbed. The Lift actually went very well. (the process itself) I was a little rushed and I had to borrow a lot of tools from the guys at the dealership but if I had to do it over again it would go very easily. The U-bolts up front actually spun right off no problem. Here are my issues. The damn kit showed up without Brakelines and the rear Add-a-leaf. So I will have to break down the rear again to put the leaf in. (thankfully I will just have to unbolt the U's alone this time. I now have a clue what all you guys are talking about. One of the things that is NOT optional is a f#%@in raised steering arm/dropped pitman. (skyjacker part #ca100) the damn truck only turns left until I get one. Also ...the exhaust pipe routed directly underneath the front drive shaft has to be modified(in this case cut the F@#k off til further notice) Breather lines do have to be replaced. It was fun. In a sick depraved kind of way; but still fun. pics to follow.

07-15-2005, 10:21 AM	#19
hAetWagon Schlongbed MEMBER (heh)#15 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 232	Dude that drag link was going nowhere.you loosen the clamps and turn the sleeve right? Nope. wasn't budging and I was outta time.

07-15-2005, 10:30 AM	#20
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	wd 40. go ahead and by new ends about $30 for both. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

07-15-2005, 12:33 PM	#21
hAetWagon Schlongbed MEMBER (heh)#15 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 232	Did the wd40 thing. I had a pipe wrench on it. I'm not what you would call a little guy either. that whole damn thing needs to be replaced.

07-15-2005, 03:47 PM	#22
hAetWagon Schlongbed MEMBER (heh)#15 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 232	Update from Summit. I called them 1st thing this morning to find out why I did not receive my brakelines,and my add-a-leafs. The Answer: THere have been some discrepancies with the site and the kit contents. They are being corrected but we get calls like this alot. My response: "Discrepancies aside;I purchased the kit BECAUSE it was a 6/6 not a 4/6. That is what I paid for. I'd like to get my add-a-leafs.(the brake lineswere in fact just relocation brackets that I have no idea how to use.) however;I should have bought a steering arm. If you could send me one of those I think we'd be straight. part # sja-ca100...." He put me on hold then got back on telling me it would be here monday. Make sure you confirm kit contents with summit before ordering online. Brock took care of me and turned a potentially volatile situation into a pleasant experience.I will shop there again.

07-15-2005, 03:54 PM	#23
hAetWagon Schlongbed MEMBER (heh)#15 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 232	pic. Here it is in all it's rattle canned glory. I F#$%in HATED the creme color that it was. So I sprayed it black til I get it sprayed for real. Attached Images

07-19-2005, 10:29 AM	#24
HOTFUN Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Lincoln, Nebraska Posts: 2,144	I wish someone close to me wanted my 4" lift off my 76 Blazer. It still looks new with the stickers still attached but I want to lower it back to stock height so my wife will quit ****n about riding in it. Mine has the Tuff Country shock, front spring, rear blocks, and the steering arm leveler. __________________ '66 CST BBW swb fleet 327 fac ac '67 CST 4x4 swb 327 stepside project '72 Cheyenne K20 50k original '72 Cheyenne Super K20 project '73 Sierra swb 4x4 frame off in paint stage '74 Cheyenne Super swb w/16k actual '71 & 72 Cheyenne K10 4x4 swb's '70 426 HEMICUDA conv SHAKER 4 sp Dana 60 '60 Impala conv 327 PG fac ac loaded 3rd owner '72 GMC K2500 4x4 '59 Apache CST BBW fleetside swb 283 '73 ElCamino SS LS1 T56 true SS bucket tach '76 ElCamino SS 52k survivor '87 Grand National 41k True 2nd to last built in 1987. '86 K30 454 SRW fleetside CA since new '88 Trans Am GTA 39k bought new 2018 DEMON plum crazy @ 840HP! "Need for speed" Last edited by HOTFUN; 07-19-2005 at 10:30 AM.*

07-19-2005, 01:35 PM	#25
hAetWagon Schlongbed MEMBER (heh)#15 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 232	Well I got my steering arm .However I could only get the first cone washer to release in the parking lot...I adjusted the drag link to centerand it works fine til I ca get into the shop again to be able to REALLY swing a BFH.

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