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07-06-2005, 07:33 PM | #1 |
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Location: Bay Area, California
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Power Brake Conversion
Last weekend I converted my manual brakes on my 1971 C10 to power brakes. Hey, if I
can do it, you can do it. So, I thought I would post what I did for "the next guy" who wants power brakes. Here is what is looked like before. A slightly rusted but perfectly working master cylinder bolted right to the firewall. I got a brake booster from a board member (thanks Davy!) and cleaned it up a bit with a wire brush to get the old rust and road gunk off, put a new coat of rustoleum, and lubed up the center pushrod piece. Here is an awkward shot. I was on my back looking up at the brake pedal linkage. This is how the old one hooked up. The pushrod attached to the pedal with a nut and bolt, plus a cotter pin for extra measure. Getting this bad boy off is fun if you dont want to drop down the column. While the MC is bolted on there is not enough clearance to get the bolt all the way off, the back hits the column. But, if you unbolt the MC first, you can push the brake pedal to the floor and get it out. Here is the old pushrod for manual brakes, its quite a bit longer than the power brake one. The next trick was wo gently pull the MC back far enought for the booster to fit behind it. Without braking the brake lines. Im not sure how much bending these jobbers would take, so I moved it the absolute minimum amount just to make sure. I didnt want to have to replace any brake lines or clean up a puddle. With the booster in place, but not bolted in, I attached the linkage. If the booster is bolted in you wont be able to get that damn bolt in place without moving the column. The brake pedal should not go all the way to the rubber bumper. A half inch or so shy of it or so Im told. The new pedal will travel less than the manual one. The booster bolts right up where the MC used to be. Then bolt up the MC to the booster, pretty simple actually. At this point the power brakes wont work yet but I wanted to test to make sure manual brakes still worked, so with the engine off I got in and let her roll a foot and hit the brakes. They should feel just like manual brakes, just with less pedal travel. Last thing for me was to hook up the vaccum line. I found a plug in the top of my intake that I unplugged and used a normal brass plumbing fitting. Running the hose up to the booster without getting it too close to anything important. After that I was all set and took her around the block a few times. WOW! Feels like 10x the braking power! Now I have to learn how to driver her again. hehe. The one thing I didnt do was hook up the bracket. It looks like it bolts to the firewall here but I didnt have a bolt there, just a rubber bumper. I suppose I could have ran a new bolt through but it didnt really seem to need the support. Then again, it might bolt up to another place. Im sure someone on here can confirm the correct bolt on location though. All in all it was pretty easy. I was surprised. It took me about 3 hours, most of that under the dash, but then again Im pretty slow. Guys on here would have done it in 30 min flat
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1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree |
07-06-2005, 08:21 PM | #2 |
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LOL I was just out looking at my MC and was wondering if I t could move it out far enough to fit the booster, Well you answered that question. Thanks for the pictures. I know What I will be doing this weekend.
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People many not remember what you said or what you did, but they will remember the way you made them feel. - unknown Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are. - Buckaroo Banzai 1984 Help support the board Last edited by Mongo; 07-06-2005 at 08:22 PM. |
07-08-2005, 11:06 AM | #3 |
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Anyone have a pic of where that bracket bolts onto? I want to get it in there this weekend. Thanks!
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1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree |
07-08-2005, 06:19 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: N.E. Ohio
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Thanks for taking the time to share this. Very informative, and well illustrated. A++++
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07-08-2005, 08:12 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: South Mississippi
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Need this moved to FAQ.
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"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck" |
07-09-2005, 12:38 PM | #6 |
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Hey, farside847
What was the thred size on the fitting for the vaccuum line to the intake?
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People many not remember what you said or what you did, but they will remember the way you made them feel. - unknown Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are. - Buckaroo Banzai 1984 Help support the board Last edited by Mongo; 07-09-2005 at 12:43 PM. |
07-09-2005, 12:54 PM | #7 |
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1/4 npt thread
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
07-09-2005, 12:54 PM | #8 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
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1/4 npt thread on most intakes
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
07-09-2005, 01:03 PM | #9 |
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Thanks
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People many not remember what you said or what you did, but they will remember the way you made them feel. - unknown Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are. - Buckaroo Banzai 1984 Help support the board |
07-09-2005, 07:28 PM | #10 |
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Thanks farside847. Good to see the pictures of the modification. I bought a power brake system up from a board member which included the brake lines from his truck which helped with the "bend as little as possible" routine.
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Bob 68 C20 Camper Special |
07-09-2005, 09:07 PM | #11 |
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You might try looking for this bracket. I have seen the one you have but I can't remember how it hooks up.
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1969 chevy C10 long bed 350 4bbl auto p/disc and 5 lug |
07-10-2005, 05:22 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
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1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree Last edited by farside847; 07-10-2005 at 05:23 PM. |
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