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Old 07-18-2005, 09:05 AM   #1
phlegm
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Question Greenhorn with a 350 V8 fluid leak.

Hi guys, hope you can help me out. NO Pride here, be honest.

Problem,
The leak is bad enough to leave a quarter sized spot overnight and egg sized after a week. I would normally not worry about it, like my Honda, and just keep it full and let it leak. However my neighbor and I argue and it wont be too long he will find no satisfaction in blowing his lawn clippings into my yard and move on to bigger and better things, I want to get the truck on the driveway.

Diagnosis??
The Oil is saturates the back side of the block and comes to drip points under the pan and the crossmemeber for the frame. It coats everything (yea no rust). I thought earlier it may be Gear oil from the 3spd manual tranny. When I checked this yesterday it is not the case, the manual fluid is clean and full, what is hitting the pavement is Black. There is no Oil toward the grill on my lower block or on top of the block. It is heaviest toward the rear of the block and does not appear to be coming from the Oil Pan. There is another pan directly behind (toward the rear) of the Oil pan with a hole in the center, I have no Idea what that is for but it could be something under or around there.

I think this leads me to the rear crankshaft seal. I have read up on how to change that but am sad to say my Haynes book as you guys know covers many years of vehicles. I am a bit worried I may run into more then I bargain for.

Questions
Do you all agree with my diagnosis?
Is there any thing else I need to look for?
Anywhere else this could be coming from as described?
Finally, Pro or Me?

I want to learn this stuff and am not scared to have it in pieces for a few days (it’s not my primary vehicle). I figure I can buy the jack and stands with the labor costs I will save from taking it somewhere, I also need to pull the breaks and get at least one rotor turned/replaced so the equipment will save me money there too.
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71 Cheyenne 10 - SWB, 350, "3 on the tree" AC cab
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Old 07-18-2005, 09:13 AM   #2
panhandler62
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Assuming that there is no oil anywhere but where you specificaly list above:
Likely culprits (in the order I think they are likely)

1. Real seal on the intake manifold
2. Valve cover gasket
3. Rear main seal

1 & 2 are far more likely and far easier to fix. 3 is not that likely, which is good because it would be a huge project to fix.
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Old 07-18-2005, 09:23 AM   #3
motocrosschump
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what kind of engine?
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Old 07-18-2005, 09:39 AM   #4
phlegm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motocrosschump
what kind of engine?
original 350 V8. and I forgot, the dealer I got it from said the owner had a rebuild 30 k ago. But you can never tell it could have had an oil change and paint job for all I know, runs quite and well though.
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71 Cheyenne 10 - SWB, 350, "3 on the tree" AC cab
07 Suburban LTZ 4x4
2010 Acura TL
98 Mastercraft "FrankenStar" 225
27253 UPS/USPS

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Old 07-18-2005, 09:42 AM   #5
phlegm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhandler62

1. Real seal on the intake manifold
2. Valve cover gasket
3. Rear main seal

1 & 2 are far more likely and far easier to fix.
Wouldn't 1&2 be visible from the top? I have cheked 2 and don't think so but I will look again. 1. I have not had a close look at.
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71 Cheyenne 10 - SWB, 350, "3 on the tree" AC cab
07 Suburban LTZ 4x4
2010 Acura TL
98 Mastercraft "FrankenStar" 225
27253 UPS/USPS

IIOY....nope never was
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Old 07-18-2005, 10:01 AM   #6
panhandler62
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You would probably notice a leak from the valve covers but might not see one from the intake unless you get right up on top of the motor and have a good look. Theoreticaly -- you can get oil from the base of the distributer also, but I've never actaully seen that one.

Also -- if you have an analog oil preasure gauge make sure to check the sender line or that puppy too.
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11 Lincoln MKT -- Momma's wagon
13 G37xS -- middle age crazy car
68 C20 Fleetside -- RIP
Decorating the whole town up at a cost of $27 ....
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Old 07-18-2005, 10:15 AM   #7
motocrosschump
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Fuel Pump??
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