Getting to the turn signal canceling cam - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ante_up13 · 07-20-2005, 03:37 AM

The Problem: My turn signal lever fell off and I figured out the nut is gone in the turn signal cam. I need to get another nut in their but it looks like you have to get the whole cam out. I have an aftermarket steering wheel that I can manage to get off along with the billet adapter thingy. But after that there is a big nut on the shaft. How do you get the damn thing off? Do I need a puller? And if I do get it off, how do I get it back on? Please help...I have had the steering wheel off four times and I don't want to do it again unless I know what I'm doing. Thanks

1969 C-10 LWB 307

**pjmoreland** · 07-20-2005, 11:55 AM

Do you have a tilt column?

ante_up13 · 07-20-2005, 11:58 AM

No...its just a fixed column.

byrd · 07-20-2005, 09:47 PM

I don't get what you mean, the turn signal handle is held on by screws not a nut. and it should be accessible with the wheel removed, maybe you could post a pic of what it is you are trying to do to help better see what you need or want to do. Randy

**pjmoreland** · 07-21-2005, 12:12 AM

The only big nut I'm aware of holds the steering wheel to the column. If you have a Grant steering wheel then the nut would be holding an aluminum hub onto the column. You should be able to remove the nut with a large socket before you remove the steering wheel. That way you can hold on to the steering wheel to keep the column from spinning while you are turning the nut. Once the nut is removed, you'll have to use a puller to get the aluminum steering wheel hub off of the steering column. Once the hub is removed, the turn signal mechanism will be exposed.

You're right, there is a nut buried inside the turn signal mechanism that the turn signal lever screws into. It is no ordinary nut though, so if it is missing, you are going to have a hard time finding a replacement. You may be able to buy a replacement turn signal mechanism in the Help! section of an auto parts store. You can also use the turn signal mechanism out of a '70s van if there is a wrecking yard close by.

ante_up13 · 07-21-2005, 02:46 PM

I bought a new canceling cam from ECE because I thought the screw just threaded into the cam. But when I got it, there is a slot in the back for a nut. So I went to Home Depot and found a nut and bolt that fit the cam. Now my problem is just getting the nut in the back of the cam. I do have the grant steering wheel and I can get to the aluminum hub that you were talking about. I have a puller... I guess my question is how do I get the hub back on after I pull it off? Its my daily driver and I just don't want to get stuck.

**pjmoreland** · 07-21-2005, 05:53 PM

You will only have to pull the hub about 1/8" before it will pop free. It will slide back on most of the way by hand, and will seat down all the way when you reinstall and retighten that big nut.

If I remember correctly, the stock nut is way longer than an ordinary nut, so it adds a lot to the rigidity of the assembly.

travisfraughton · 02-25-2014, 06:14 PM

I've got this same problem, well almost. I've still got the nut behind the cam, but I think it's stripped. What's the easiest way to replace this nut? it seems to be loose where it sits... but not loose enough that I feel comfortable just yanking it out. This is really annoying as I have tried to use tape or lock tite a couple times to get a screw to stay in that stripped nut - it will hold for a while but eventually gets loose and the screw grounds out the horn. Nothing better than your horn going off every time you make a turn and everyone thinking you're an A$$h0le...
any ideas on replacing this nut?
thanks!

travisfraughton · 03-05-2014, 03:13 PM

As far as I could tell once you removed the cam and got to the nut, it was essentially just part of the turn signal switch. I did not want to spend $40-$50 for a new switch for the tiny little nut. Not to mention wasting time installing a new switch just for that 1 little nut. I put JB weld epoxy in the stripped nut, on the screw, and between the turn signal lever and the cam. So far it is nice and tight and functions just as good as ever.

07-20-2005, 03:37 AM	#1
ante_up13 Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Here Posts: 167	Getting to the turn signal canceling cam The Problem: My turn signal lever fell off and I figured out the nut is gone in the turn signal cam. I need to get another nut in their but it looks like you have to get the whole cam out. I have an aftermarket steering wheel that I can manage to get off along with the billet adapter thingy. But after that there is a big nut on the shaft. How do you get the damn thing off? Do I need a puller? And if I do get it off, how do I get it back on? Please help...I have had the steering wheel off four times and I don't want to do it again unless I know what I'm doing. Thanks 1969 C-10 LWB 307 Last edited by ante_up13; 07-20-2005 at 03:38 AM. Reason: put model and year

02-25-2014, 06:14 PM	#8
travisfraughton Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: provo, ut Posts: 69	Re: Getting to the turn signal canceling cam I've got this same problem, well almost. I've still got the nut behind the cam, but I think it's stripped. What's the easiest way to replace this nut? it seems to be loose where it sits... but not loose enough that I feel comfortable just yanking it out. This is really annoying as I have tried to use tape or lock tite a couple times to get a screw to stay in that stripped nut - it will hold for a while but eventually gets loose and the screw grounds out the horn. Nothing better than your horn going off every time you make a turn and everyone thinking you're an A$$h0le... any ideas on replacing this nut? thanks! __________________ 1970 lwb hugger orange. 454 duel fuel cng and gasoline. 1990 Ford F-250 Lariat 2008 Mazda3

03-05-2014, 03:13 PM	#9
travisfraughton Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: provo, ut Posts: 69	Re: Getting to the turn signal canceling cam As far as I could tell once you removed the cam and got to the nut, it was essentially just part of the turn signal switch. I did not want to spend $40-$50 for a new switch for the tiny little nut. Not to mention wasting time installing a new switch just for that 1 little nut. I put JB weld epoxy in the stripped nut, on the screw, and between the turn signal lever and the cam. So far it is nice and tight and functions just as good as ever. __________________ 1970 lwb hugger orange. 454 duel fuel cng and gasoline. 1990 Ford F-250 Lariat 2008 Mazda3

07-20-2005, 11:55 AM	#2
pjmoreland Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: CA Posts: 5,409	Do you have a tilt column?

07-20-2005, 11:58 AM	#3
ante_up13 Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Here Posts: 167	No...its just a fixed column.

07-21-2005, 12:12 AM	#5
pjmoreland Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: CA Posts: 5,409	The only big nut I'm aware of holds the steering wheel to the column. If you have a Grant steering wheel then the nut would be holding an aluminum hub onto the column. You should be able to remove the nut with a large socket before you remove the steering wheel. That way you can hold on to the steering wheel to keep the column from spinning while you are turning the nut. Once the nut is removed, you'll have to use a puller to get the aluminum steering wheel hub off of the steering column. Once the hub is removed, the turn signal mechanism will be exposed. You're right, there is a nut buried inside the turn signal mechanism that the turn signal lever screws into. It is no ordinary nut though, so if it is missing, you are going to have a hard time finding a replacement. You may be able to buy a replacement turn signal mechanism in the Help! section of an auto parts store. You can also use the turn signal mechanism out of a '70s van if there is a wrecking yard close by.

07-21-2005, 02:46 PM	#6
ante_up13 Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Here Posts: 167	I bought a new canceling cam from ECE because I thought the screw just threaded into the cam. But when I got it, there is a slot in the back for a nut. So I went to Home Depot and found a nut and bolt that fit the cam. Now my problem is just getting the nut in the back of the cam. I do have the grant steering wheel and I can get to the aluminum hub that you were talking about. I have a puller... I guess my question is how do I get the hub back on after I pull it off? Its my daily driver and I just don't want to get stuck.

07-21-2005, 05:53 PM	#7
pjmoreland Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: CA Posts: 5,409	You will only have to pull the hub about 1/8" before it will pop free. It will slide back on most of the way by hand, and will seat down all the way when you reinstall and retighten that big nut. If I remember correctly, the stock nut is way longer than an ordinary nut, so it adds a lot to the rigidity of the assembly.



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