fuel tank replacement in cab - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

KP1972 · 06-23-2002, 11:29 PM

Has anyone replaced their in-cab tank with a new one? This is my first. SO any helpful hints are indeed welcome!

bobs409 · 06-24-2002, 06:52 AM

I didn't replace it with a new one but I just had mine out to paint the inside of the cab.

It wasn't hard at all. (thought it would be)

Run as much gas out as you can to make the job easier. Remove all the bolts and disconnect the fuel line. If you have seat belts, you'll have to remove them too. Remove gas cap and if replacing the rubber grommet at filler neck, make a few cuts with a razor and pull out ahead of time. (I recommend replacing this grommet with a new one as they are cheap and look great)

Then simply pull the tank out. To reinstall, insert new grommet into cab and apply some dish washing liquid to the inside of grommet and tank filler neck. Then simply install. Mine went right in without any problems.

A tip: this is a good time to replace all rubber fuel lines on the truck. There is one that gets neglected under the cab. (just thinking...I still have to do mine! LOL)

Good luck

KP1972 · 06-24-2002, 08:47 AM

Bob, do you think that there should be some kind of heat shield around those rubber lines under the cab???

Low69CST · 06-24-2002, 08:52 AM

I don't think there should be a heat sheild around them. Unless you've changed the exhaust and have them really close together. Those rubberlines have ran fine for 30 years on millions of trucks.

KP1972 · 06-24-2002, 09:26 AM

Before I bought the truck, new dual exhaust was added and when I had to replace the under cab fuel filter I saw that the rubber fuel line is within 10 inches of the exhaust. That is why I asked this question.

Low69CST · 06-24-2002, 09:42 AM

For about 20 bucks you can get some heat reflective sleaving from summit. They also have some different wraps that are cheaper.

chevy2racr · 06-24-2002, 12:19 PM

you don't have to take the seatbelts out, just undo the bolts holdin the tank in. take the gas cap off, undo lines and fuel gauge wire. then lift the tank on the passenger side up to about a 45 degree angle and give it a tug. before you put one back in make ur all your wires and hoses and seat belts are on the front side and not under the tank, man was I mad when I had to loosen it all back up to grab them back. in a hurry...
Bryce

bobs409 · 06-24-2002, 06:13 PM

I recall my seat belts being in the way on mine. Hmmm. Oh well, I was doing a repaint so they had to go anyway. Maybe they all aren't like this.

I don't know about the heat shield. I suppose if it's close to the exhaust, it couldn't hurt.

06-23-2002, 11:29 PM	#1
KP1972 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Mansfield Texas Posts: 645	fuel tank replacement in cab Has anyone replaced their in-cab tank with a new one? This is my first. SO any helpful hints are indeed welcome! __________________ 1972 Chevy Custom/10 www.PictureTrail.com/KP1972 Metroplex Muscle Car Club www.PictureTrail.com/DreamCarArt

06-24-2002, 06:52 AM	#2
bobs409 1969 Custom 30 wrecker Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pottsville, Pa Posts: 2,611	I didn't replace it with a new one but I just had mine out to paint the inside of the cab. It wasn't hard at all. (thought it would be) Run as much gas out as you can to make the job easier. Remove all the bolts and disconnect the fuel line. If you have seat belts, you'll have to remove them too. Remove gas cap and if replacing the rubber grommet at filler neck, make a few cuts with a razor and pull out ahead of time. (I recommend replacing this grommet with a new one as they are cheap and look great) Then simply pull the tank out. To reinstall, insert new grommet into cab and apply some dish washing liquid to the inside of grommet and tank filler neck. Then simply install. Mine went right in without any problems. A tip: this is a good time to replace all rubber fuel lines on the truck. There is one that gets neglected under the cab. (just thinking...I still have to do mine! LOL) Good luck __________________ Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10

06-24-2002, 08:47 AM	#3
KP1972 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Mansfield Texas Posts: 645	Bob, do you think that there should be some kind of heat shield around those rubber lines under the cab??? __________________ 1972 Chevy Custom/10 www.PictureTrail.com/KP1972 Metroplex Muscle Car Club www.PictureTrail.com/DreamCarArt

06-24-2002, 08:52 AM	#4
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	I don't think there should be a heat sheild around them. Unless you've changed the exhaust and have them really close together. Those rubberlines have ran fine for 30 years on millions of trucks. __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

06-24-2002, 09:26 AM	#5
KP1972 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Mansfield Texas Posts: 645	Before I bought the truck, new dual exhaust was added and when I had to replace the under cab fuel filter I saw that the rubber fuel line is within 10 inches of the exhaust. That is why I asked this question. __________________ 1972 Chevy Custom/10 www.PictureTrail.com/KP1972 Metroplex Muscle Car Club www.PictureTrail.com/DreamCarArt

06-24-2002, 09:42 AM	#6
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	For about 20 bucks you can get some heat reflective sleaving from summit. They also have some different wraps that are cheaper. __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

06-24-2002, 12:19 PM	#7
chevy2racr So Many Ideas, So Little Money Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Marshalltown, IA Posts: 1,610	you don't have to take the seatbelts out, just undo the bolts holdin the tank in. take the gas cap off, undo lines and fuel gauge wire. then lift the tank on the passenger side up to about a 45 degree angle and give it a tug. before you put one back in make ur all your wires and hoses and seat belts are on the front side and not under the tank, man was I mad when I had to loosen it all back up to grab them back. in a hurry... Bryce __________________ 72 Blazer 3/4 ton running gear 4.10s NP205/TH350 350 4in lift half doors 71 C10 with 454 99 S-10 5.1L SBC 700R4 09 Malibu Marshalltown, Iowa

06-24-2002, 06:13 PM	#8
bobs409 1969 Custom 30 wrecker Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pottsville, Pa Posts: 2,611	I recall my seat belts being in the way on mine. Hmmm. Oh well, I was doing a repaint so they had to go anyway. Maybe they all aren't like this. I don't know about the heat shield. I suppose if it's close to the exhaust, it couldn't hurt. __________________ Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10



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