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Old 07-20-2005, 10:04 PM   #1
red86chevy
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Leaf spring shakel question (lowering)

I saw an '86 short bed yesterday that was lowered only in the rear. The truck sat almost level with no rake. What was done was where the leaf spring bolt to the shakles in the rear the shakels were made longer (an inch or two) and the springs bolted to them (higher up). The only thing I saw I did not like was a notch had to be cut in the bed to allow for the taller shakles. Any way I liked the way it looked and thought of doing mine this way. Is this the correct way to do this or does it hurt anything? I am new to this lowering thing and know nothing about it. If it is ok to do this where can I get these taller shakles or do they have to be made? If this way should not be done what can I do to lower only the rear an Inch or two?

Thanks for any information,
Jeremy
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Old 07-20-2005, 10:07 PM   #2
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Using a lowering (longer) shackle is one of the most common ways to lower the rear of these trucks. It is also common to have to notch the bed brace for clearance. Don't worry though, unless you haul lots of heavy loads it should never create a problem.
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Old 07-20-2005, 10:23 PM   #3
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or you could raise the front and inch with HD coils and it will sit level too, if level is all you are going for...
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Old 07-21-2005, 05:59 AM   #4
red86chevy
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I personally don't like it with the front up. I think it looks cool with the rear down. Any one know where I can get some of these longer shakles?

Thanks,
Jeremy
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Old 07-21-2005, 08:57 AM   #5
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red86chevy im like you i want the truck level and not have to install spindals on the front mainly because i have to drive it down some rough roads at time and dont want to drag or bottom out etc. if you find out this mod is achevable (leveling the truck with out spindals) please let me know i have thought about go a 2/4 to level but these really sound more like what i want thanks in advance
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Old 07-21-2005, 09:04 AM   #6
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That is the way I lowered mine, 20 yrs ago. Works great no problems. I also removed a few springs.
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Old 07-21-2005, 09:18 AM   #7
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Try Summit Racing for the shackles. If you want a little more drop then cut your front springs. This will get you down a little....
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Old 07-21-2005, 11:46 AM   #8
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As said above, this is COMPLETELY do-able. Just buy a set of rear shackles. Summit should have them. PN SUM-G756 They are $45.99.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=KeywordSearch
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Old 07-22-2005, 11:42 AM   #9
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When I do this is it as easy as
1) Notch out bed for clearance
2)remove bolt from shakles holding the leafs
3) Remove existing shakle
4)bolt up the new ones
5)Replace springs

It seems really easy or did I leave something out that I did not know about? Can one person do it?

Also Will it hurt anything if I remove a leaf from each side to help out with traction on the track or will this help traction at all? Will this drop it a little too?

Thanks for all of yall's help. I'm ordering the shakles today, and am gonna remove a leaf if it will help me at all.

Jeremy
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Old 07-22-2005, 12:12 PM   #10
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I was looking at my leaf springs a minute ago trying to see what it would take to remove a leaf from each side and noticed it had a little "Keeper" that was holding three of the four leaf together toward the front. (The bottom one is short and is not held by this piece) Do you have to get a different one of theese if you remove a leaf or can I just remove the bottom one which is short? Or is there one that I specifically do not need to take out?

Also I have four leafs on each side. This is how many there are susposed to be correct?(Making sure no one has already taken one out)
Sorry for the stupid questions but I'm new to this.

Jeremy
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Old 07-22-2005, 12:38 PM   #11
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Sounds like you have the procedure right. Check Jeff's 73-87.com garage for more information.

Depending on your leaf pack, I'd think that you would end up getting more axle wrap if you removed a spring which translate into less traction. I have a HD suspension that has 5-leaf spring pack. Pulling another leaf out of a 4-leaf pack might make it too soft.

But, am I missing something?

If you only install a 2" 'drop' shackle in the rear, won't the pinion angle change by about 4*. Seems like you would need a 4* shim to reset the pinion angle.
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Old 07-22-2005, 03:59 PM   #12
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i agree that it might make traction worse as it may increase wheel hop... if you are really wanting to increase traction for the track.. you can take out a leaf.(the smallest one, its the overload spring) and add traction bars....
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Old 07-22-2005, 04:11 PM   #13
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:hj: i dont understand the pinion angle situation at all i have put a f!@# nine inch rear-end in my truck to do this i cutting the brackets off my chevy rear-end one at a time marking front back sides etc and measuring about where the set factory and kinda hoped like hell that it would bolt in it did but do you guys think i might have jeperdized something else by maybe changing the pinion angle a little bit accidentally i havent noticed anything diffrent when i was able to drive it but i really wouldnt know what to expect diffrent if it was changed.

sorry for the long post just a consern that came in to my head while reading this thread thanks
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Old 07-22-2005, 05:46 PM   #14
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What could I do to correct the pinion angle? What do I shem?

Jeremy
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86 c-10 383 w/ sportsman II heads comp 286h cam Edlbrock RPM Performer intake Holley 750 th350 w/2400 stall 3.73 gears with powertrax No-Slip posi unit. Just broken in good. Will get a 1/4 time this week.
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Old 07-22-2005, 09:22 PM   #15
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put a shim betweem the axle and leaf springs, to get the pinion angle back to proper angle. if the pinion is pointed to far up, put the largest part of the shim to the back...if the pinion is pointed too far down, then put the largest part of the shim towards the front.
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Old 07-22-2005, 11:14 PM   #16
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I lowered the back of my 74 swb and I dont have traction problems, no wheel hop, and no bad pinion angle
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Old 07-23-2005, 01:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86 GMG
:hj: i dont understand the pinion angle situation at all i have put a f!@# nine inch rear-end in my truck to do this i cutting the brackets off my chevy rear-end one at a time marking front back sides etc and measuring about where the set factory and kinda hoped like hell that it would bolt in it did but do you guys think i might have jeperdized something else by maybe changing the pinion angle a little bit accidentally i havent noticed anything diffrent when i was able to drive it but i really wouldnt know what to expect diffrent if it was changed.

sorry for the long post just a consern that came in to my head while reading this thread thanks
The pinion angle is formed by the angle of the pinion and the angle of the driveshaft. You could use a inclinometer to measure the angle of the pinion and the angle of the driveshaft and then add the two angles to obtain the pinion angle. (You can find inclinometers (protractors) at Eastwood, Sears, or your local hardward store.) The pinion angle for leaf springs are set up between 5* to 7* degrees. Last I check the truck's pinion angle was around 5*.

But, the bottom line is to set the angle of the pinion equal but opposite of the angle of the transmission tailshaft. In essence, you want the tailshaft and the pinion to be in parallel to each other. Place the inclinometer on the harmonic balancer to measure the angle of the transmission shaft (or on the flat surface of the tailshaft yoke positioned perpendicular to the output shaft). Then set up your axle until the angle of the pinion shaft is equal but opposite to that of the tailshaft. If you've set up the pinion angle correctly, you shouldn't have any noise or vibration. Also, the U-joints shouldn't wear abnormally as well as the pinion and transmission output shaft bearings, gears and splines.

If need be, you can get new spring perches at Summit or other on-line shops.
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Old 07-23-2005, 01:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red86chevy
What could I do to correct the pinion angle? What do I shem?

Jeremy
I'm wondering about the pinion angle change. As the others have posted, it may not be an issue. But, I tend to think that the angle of the pinion may change by about 4*. I also think the angle of the tailshaft may change by almost a 1*.

To be sure, you could measure the angle of the pinion, driveshaft and the transmission tailshaft prior to lowering the rear. The angle of the pinion and the angle of the transmission tailshaft should be equal but opposite. Then, install the drop and again measure and compare the angle of the pinion and the tailshaft. If an adjustment is needed, you could then purchase and install a pinion wedge (shim). The shim is installed between the lowest leaf spring and spring perch as Prerunner1982 said.

Let us know how it turns out.
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