Adding Power Breaks? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

muddpile · 07-21-2005, 12:49 AM

I was just wondering how easy/hard it is to add power brakes to a 72 C-10. The stiff pedal manual brakes aren't bad, but power brakes would make driving all that much nicer. What parts would I need, and about how much would it cost. Is it worth the effort? Thanks!

68C15 · 07-21-2005, 07:37 AM

check www.napaonline.com or your local NAPA store for a "loaded" booster.

farside847 · 07-21-2005, 10:35 AM

Its worth every penny!

FAQ
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=163387

fixerman · 07-21-2005, 01:20 PM

I just installed the "Grand Slam" kit from Golden State Truck Parts. It cost about $1399 but includes everything you need to convert to power disk brakes in the front and lower your ride if you wish. It even comes with shocks and springs for front and rear. If you already have disk brakes then you just need the power brake booster. I have seen them for around $300. Power brakes are well worth the expense.

Scottri · 07-21-2005, 02:37 PM

I bought the complete setup off a donor truck. It was a pretty easy swap. I'm glad I did it. Probably not as good as a more modern setup but better than the non-power brakes of the day.

ante_up13 · 07-21-2005, 02:51 PM

I switched over from manual drums all around to power and put discs up front. There is a world of difference. Makes it a lot less sketchy to drive in heavy stop and go traffic.

phlegm · 07-21-2005, 02:59 PM

I have a 71 with Manual Discs up front, when I look at the FAQ it looks like all he did was change the rod, add the booster, hook it up for vaccume and go. Does this mean that I do not have to change the MC or add a proportioning valve? is all this all ready to go because it has discs already?

thanks

Tx Firefighter · 07-21-2005, 04:50 PM

That is correct. Just unbolt the master cylinder from the firewall and pull it away some. Then install the booster, brackets, and push rod. Now, bolt the master cylinder onto the booster. No need to change the master cylinder or anything else. No need to even open a brake line or bleed them when you're done.

It's a good easy swap. Figure on 2 hours max. Getting the new rod bolted to the pedal under the dash requires some serious laying on your back under the dash.

Around here, a rebuilt booster sell for about 80 bucks at a parts store. You will still need the brackets and rod though, so it's best to buy a whole assembly used somewhere and turn in the booster for a core and re-use the brackets and such.

I usually just post a "want to buy power booster" ad in the parts board when I need one. Last one I bought was 50 bucks total. The 80 for the rebuilt booster brought the grand total up to 130 bucks. Money well spent for sure.

farside847 · 07-21-2005, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phlegm

I have a 71 with Manual Discs up front, when I look at the FAQ it looks like all he did was change the rod, add the booster, hook it up for vaccume and go. Does this mean that I do not have to change the MC or add a proportioning valve? is all this all ready to go because it has discs already?

My truck already had front disc. But as far as I know, you do not need to convert to disc to add a brake booster.

Scottri · 07-21-2005, 05:34 PM

You don't need to convert to disc brakes. I did my swap on a 3/4 ton truck with all drums.

Scott

krue · 07-21-2005, 09:15 PM

I'm also running 4 wheel power drums.

muddpile · 07-22-2005, 12:51 AM

What vehicle would I look on for a booster, rod and bracket? Does it have to be off a 67-72 pickup, or is there other vehicles it could come off too?

farside847 · 07-22-2005, 11:01 AM

The 73's and above have a different bracket. So your better off with one off a 67-72 pickup. Ask in the parts forum, Im sure somebodys got one...

Richard Dobson · 07-22-2005, 12:17 PM

What is involved when going from 3-on-the-tree to a auto on a 71. I know it already has disc brakes, but what about the pedal assembly? I have a auto column, how much else is invloved. Those power brake boosters are sure large enough, it seems like they overpower the whole engine compartment.

07-21-2005, 12:49 AM	#1
muddpile Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,371	Adding Power Breaks? I was just wondering how easy/hard it is to add power brakes to a 72 C-10. The stiff pedal manual brakes aren't bad, but power brakes would make driving all that much nicer. What parts would I need, and about how much would it cost. Is it worth the effort? Thanks! __________________ 1964 Chevy Short Fleet: Tornado 1972 Chevy C10: Fast Orange Secondaries Wide Open

07-21-2005, 07:37 AM	#2
68C15 blood type; Retumbo Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: next to my reloading bench Posts: 10,269	check www.napaonline.com or your local NAPA store for a "loaded" booster. __________________ Man rule #77...if you own a 67 stepside with a caddy 472 you will never be in danger of loosing you man card

07-21-2005, 10:35 AM	#3
farside847 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area, California Posts: 995	Its worth every penny! FAQ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=163387 __________________ 1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree

07-21-2005, 02:37 PM	#5
Scottri Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Beaverton Oregon USA Posts: 338	I bought the complete setup off a donor truck. It was a pretty easy swap. I'm glad I did it. Probably not as good as a more modern setup but better than the non-power brakes of the day. __________________ 1969 GMC 3/4 Ton Long Bed Fleetside 350, 4 speed manual, P/S, P/B, Edelbrock 1406 Carb Beaverton / Portland Oregon

07-21-2005, 02:59 PM	#7
phlegm Still Green but learning Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Central NC Posts: 1,895	I have a 71 with Manual Discs up front, when I look at the FAQ it looks like all he did was change the rod, add the booster, hook it up for vaccume and go. Does this mean that I do not have to change the MC or add a proportioning valve? is all this all ready to go because it has discs already? thanks __________________ -- Cory 71 Cheyenne 10 - SWB, 350, "3 on the tree" AC cab 07 Suburban LTZ 4x4 2010 Acura TL 98 Mastercraft "FrankenStar" 225 27253 UPS/USPS IIOY....nope never was

07-21-2005, 01:20 PM	#4
fixerman Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Idaho Posts: 12	I just installed the "Grand Slam" kit from Golden State Truck Parts. It cost about $1399 but includes everything you need to convert to power disk brakes in the front and lower your ride if you wish. It even comes with shocks and springs for front and rear. If you already have disk brakes then you just need the power brake booster. I have seen them for around $300. Power brakes are well worth the expense.

07-21-2005, 02:51 PM	#6
ante_up13 Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Here Posts: 167	I switched over from manual drums all around to power and put discs up front. There is a world of difference. Makes it a lot less sketchy to drive in heavy stop and go traffic.

07-21-2005, 04:50 PM	#8
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	That is correct. Just unbolt the master cylinder from the firewall and pull it away some. Then install the booster, brackets, and push rod. Now, bolt the master cylinder onto the booster. No need to change the master cylinder or anything else. No need to even open a brake line or bleed them when you're done. It's a good easy swap. Figure on 2 hours max. Getting the new rod bolted to the pedal under the dash requires some serious laying on your back under the dash. Around here, a rebuilt booster sell for about 80 bucks at a parts store. You will still need the brackets and rod though, so it's best to buy a whole assembly used somewhere and turn in the booster for a core and re-use the brackets and such. I usually just post a "want to buy power booster" ad in the parts board when I need one. Last one I bought was 50 bucks total. The 80 for the rebuilt booster brought the grand total up to 130 bucks. Money well spent for sure. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin Last edited by Tx Firefighter; 07-21-2005 at 04:53 PM.

07-21-2005, 05:34 PM	#10
Scottri Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Beaverton Oregon USA Posts: 338	You don't need to convert to disc brakes. I did my swap on a 3/4 ton truck with all drums. Scott __________________ 1969 GMC 3/4 Ton Long Bed Fleetside 350, 4 speed manual, P/S, P/B, Edelbrock 1406 Carb Beaverton / Portland Oregon

07-21-2005, 09:15 PM	#11
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,448	I'm also running 4 wheel power drums. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

07-22-2005, 12:51 AM	#12
muddpile Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,371	What vehicle would I look on for a booster, rod and bracket? Does it have to be off a 67-72 pickup, or is there other vehicles it could come off too? __________________ 1964 Chevy Short Fleet: Tornado 1972 Chevy C10: Fast Orange Secondaries Wide Open

07-22-2005, 11:01 AM	#13
farside847 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area, California Posts: 995	The 73's and above have a different bracket. So your better off with one off a 67-72 pickup. Ask in the parts forum, Im sure somebodys got one... __________________ 1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree

07-22-2005, 12:17 PM	#14
Richard Dobson Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Easley, South Carolina Posts: 491	What is involved when going from 3-on-the-tree to a auto on a 71. I know it already has disc brakes, but what about the pedal assembly? I have a auto column, how much else is invloved. Those power brake boosters are sure large enough, it seems like they overpower the whole engine compartment. __________________ Richard Dobson



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