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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 261
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question about frame shortening?
I am blocking up my long bed today so i can shorten the frame. Is it better to leave the cab on for support? To keep it from twisting? I know the rear cab supports will not be connected and will not be any help. Should i weld a support bar across the rear ward part of the frame before i cut? You know the part that holds the trailing arm crossmember. Any help would be appreciated!
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#2 |
Working on a Nova.
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: ##
Posts: 506
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I think early Classic sells a kit with instructions. I know it is a lot of money to spend on some simple metal plates, but the instructions could be helpful! I would really consider looking for and forking out some cash on a SWB frame. I know it is hard to find just the frame, but I would hate to see someone go through alot of work to end up having problems later. I'm doing a complete frame off restoration. I found to lift the cab off if you have to a 4X4 throught the door openings once the doors are removed works very well. I had the advantage of my neighbors back hoe to do the lifting but a lifting frame with some block and tackle's should be easy enough to build out of 4X4's. I would want the body off the frame becouse if you do twist you could end up ruining the cab!
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#3 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Most of the cutting needs to be done under the cab....personally I'd rather be able to do it from over and not under.
There is a very detailed how to in the FAQ on this. |
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#4 |
Confirmed Truckaholic
![]() Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Sarver,PA 16055
Posts: 732
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Go to www.earlyclassic.com , then look under tech articles, They have a very good one one this topic.
__________________
1968 50th STEP SIDE SHORTY, 350/350, a/c, ps, p,b Daily Driver, 1970 Cst short fleet, all black, 350/350, 1970 2wd Blazer, 2wd, 6 cyl. 3 spd, original, now a 454, 350turbo, 3.73 posi, on the road 1971 2wd fleet shorty, 454, 700r4, 3.73 posi, SOLD to 67OLDSTYLE72 "My rig's a little old but that don't mean she's slow" - SAWYER BROWN's Six Days On The Road SEMPER FI "I use to be a lean mean fighting machine, but now I'm a huffin, puffin, over stuffin love muffin" |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 261
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I have read both tech articles on this site and on early classics. I have decided to use the early classic method. The down fall i have is that i do not have such a level platform to start with. It was a pain in the ass trying to level the the whole truck in six differant locations! But i got it! I have not got it cut yet but i do have everything ready and removed minus the driveshaft. The welder will be coming by in a few days to secure it profesionally(or however you spell it). I will try to post my pics as i go!
As for getting another "short frame". I have looked but i do not want the hassle of going to the dmv and trying to get the numbers to match the title. Most titles usually go with the cabs! So most frames dont have titles to go with them. I feel sufficient enough to accomplish this frame shortening and still have a stout straight frame. |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada
Posts: 4,052
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12" under the cab and try 6" off the back to start. I did 8" would have been nice to have more.
__________________
1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD |
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