Longhorn U-joints ????? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

woodrow59 · 06-24-2002, 09:21 PM

Just got done "trying" to put in the u-jount that attaches to the transmission. Went to the local "Parts are Us" store and got what there computer said were the front and back U-joints for a '68 c20. I would have come home with 1 except I asked my "salesperson" to check if they were different.

Anyway,,,,,,,,,,neither one of them are right,,,,,,,are the Longhorn's different??? Got a 2 piece driveshaft with a THM400 (from what I can tell from my limited knowledge,,,, LOL).

Any help would be appreciated !!!!!!!!

da-burb · 06-24-2002, 10:18 PM

Maybe take a look at a C-30 since the frame is a 1 ton on longhorns.

Longhorn Man · 06-24-2002, 10:54 PM

I wish I could remember the part #...I went through this in 97.
Either take them in, or tell them to try a one ton. You could mention the 133 inch wheelbase, but they'll probably say you are full of it.
I had to go back like 4 times, and the manager told me he couldn't help me with a "cobbled up old farm truck". I snapped on his @ss. And when i went to the next place, and got it right there the first time, (NAPA) I brought the truck by and told him that NAPA was able to help me with my "cobbled up old farm truck". I promptly left a couple black marks on my way out of the lot. (I used to have a temper problem)

Rabid · 06-25-2002, 12:10 AM

My suggestion would be to take your current u-joints out and bring one with you to the parts store for comparison. Of course this will involve stranding your Horn for a few hours while you take another vehicle to do the comparison but in the long run it will most likely be the safest bet. When in doubt, bring the one that has worked for years and get it's exact duplicate. Just my $0.02.

woodrow59 · 06-25-2002, 06:26 PM

Thanks guys,,,,,,,,,I think i'll do all those suggestions,,,,,take it out and go to NAPA,,,,,,,,they're a little higher but higher quality. Should have listened more to my Dad when I was growin' up. He was a mechanic for 40 years and wouldn't buy parts any place but NAPA.

Again,,,,THanks for the help!!!!!!!!

**COBALT** · 06-25-2002, 06:42 PM

I didn't even bother going to the cheapies for my U-joints. I went straight to NAPA.

It depends on what kind of driveshaft you have. For me, I had the two piece that used the slip yoke on the TH400, but it went throught the in-line support bearing (not the heavy duty "U" shaped one for 4spd manuals, but the weaker "I" beam kind), and finally to the big 10 bolt corp. axle at the rear.

My two front U-joints were the regular size (the size NAPA will hand you simply by what the book says), but the rear one was one of the big ones. They had to search for that one. The U-bolts for the differential yoke were also substantial, and cost $5 a pop.

One thing to remember if you're going to NAPA, and you have the same support bearing as I do. DO NOT USE THOSE G-D SHIELDS THAT ARE ON EACH SIDE OF YOUR BEARING. I wasted about a week farting around with those stupid shields before I found out I was supposed to leave them out with the new bearing. Also, that bearing does NOT have to be pressed on by a machine shop. Just get a piece of steel pipe that rests on the inner race of the bearing and put a cap on the end, so it fits over the splined part of the shaft the removable yoke goes on, and tap that bastard into place. To pull the old one you have to destroy it by cutting the rubber apart and pulling the housing off.

Longhorn Man · 06-25-2002, 08:45 PM

The longhorn shaft is a little diferant. It has the slip yolk, and the slip shaft in the center.
You are right about teh C-bearing..it takes the "low profile one"

06-24-2002, 09:21 PM	#1
woodrow59 OzarkHillbilly in Atlanta Join Date: May 2002 Location: Douglasville, Ga. Salem, Mo. Posts: 386	Longhorn U-joints ????? Just got done "trying" to put in the u-jount that attaches to the transmission. Went to the local "Parts are Us" store and got what there computer said were the front and back U-joints for a '68 c20. I would have come home with 1 except I asked my "salesperson" to check if they were different. Anyway,,,,,,,,,,neither one of them are right,,,,,,,are the Longhorn's different??? Got a 2 piece driveshaft with a THM400 (from what I can tell from my limited knowledge,,,, LOL). Any help would be appreciated !!!!!!!! __________________ 72 custom/10 LWB 68 Longhorn C20 Custom Camper (sold)

06-24-2002, 10:18 PM	#2
da-burb "Ochre Ogre" Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Springfield, MN Posts: 3,558	Maybe take a look at a C-30 since the frame is a 1 ton on longhorns. __________________ Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087

06-25-2002, 06:26 PM	#5
woodrow59 OzarkHillbilly in Atlanta Join Date: May 2002 Location: Douglasville, Ga. Salem, Mo. Posts: 386	Thanks guys,,,,,,,,,I think i'll do all those suggestions,,,,,take it out and go to NAPA,,,,,,,,they're a little higher but higher quality. Should have listened more to my Dad when I was growin' up. He was a mechanic for 40 years and wouldn't buy parts any place but NAPA. Again,,,,THanks for the help!!!!!!!! __________________ 72 custom/10 LWB 68 Longhorn C20 Custom Camper (sold)

06-25-2002, 06:42 PM	#6
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	I didn't even bother going to the cheapies for my U-joints. I went straight to NAPA. It depends on what kind of driveshaft you have. For me, I had the two piece that used the slip yoke on the TH400, but it went throught the in-line support bearing (not the heavy duty "U" shaped one for 4spd manuals, but the weaker "I" beam kind), and finally to the big 10 bolt corp. axle at the rear. My two front U-joints were the regular size (the size NAPA will hand you simply by what the book says), but the rear one was one of the big ones. They had to search for that one. The U-bolts for the differential yoke were also substantial, and cost $5 a pop. One thing to remember if you're going to NAPA, and you have the same support bearing as I do. DO NOT USE THOSE G-D SHIELDS THAT ARE ON EACH SIDE OF YOUR BEARING. I wasted about a week farting around with those stupid shields before I found out I was supposed to leave them out with the new bearing. Also, that bearing does NOT have to be pressed on by a machine shop. Just get a piece of steel pipe that rests on the inner race of the bearing and put a cap on the end, so it fits over the splined part of the shaft the removable yoke goes on, and tap that bastard into place. To pull the old one you have to destroy it by cutting the rubber apart and pulling the housing off. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. Last edited by COBALT; 06-25-2002 at 06:47 PM.

06-24-2002, 10:54 PM	#3
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I wish I could remember the part #...I went through this in 97. Either take them in, or tell them to try a one ton. You could mention the 133 inch wheelbase, but they'll probably say you are full of it. I had to go back like 4 times, and the manager told me he couldn't help me with a "cobbled up old farm truck". I snapped on his @ss. And when i went to the next place, and got it right there the first time, (NAPA) I brought the truck by and told him that NAPA was able to help me with my "cobbled up old farm truck". I promptly left a couple black marks on my way out of the lot. (I used to have a temper problem)

06-25-2002, 12:10 AM	#4
Rabid Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI Posts: 1,237	My suggestion would be to take your current u-joints out and bring one with you to the parts store for comparison. Of course this will involve stranding your Horn for a few hours while you take another vehicle to do the comparison but in the long run it will most likely be the safest bet. When in doubt, bring the one that has worked for years and get it's exact duplicate. Just my $0.02.

06-25-2002, 08:45 PM	#7
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	The longhorn shaft is a little diferant. It has the slip yolk, and the slip shaft in the center. You are right about teh C-bearing..it takes the "low profile one"



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