The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-25-2005, 10:54 PM   #1
Purs
Got Big Block?
 
Purs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: West Texas
Posts: 1,510
exhaust advice needed

I'm getting the exhaust done this week and need some advice. It will be 3" from the headers to the Magnaflow straight through mufflers. I have a 2.5/3 drop right now. I'll probably end up with a 3.5"/5 drop one of these days. Anyway, I'm most interested in a "free flowing" exhaust system over one that is completely hidden. I've seen how Stacey David did his and my budget won't allow me to run the pipe through the crossmembers. My 2 questions are how and where to run the pipe once I get to the rear trailing arms and 2) should I dump the pipes right in front of the rear end or right in front of the rear tires. Any advice (and pics) would be appreciated.
Attached Images
 
__________________
"Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."

Last edited by Purs; 07-25-2005 at 11:11 PM.
Purs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2005, 11:12 AM   #2
matthufham
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Carl Junction, Missouri
Posts: 2,061
well i'd say drop it down after the cab and side pipe it in front of the rear tire, but you want it hidden. buy some 3 inch turn downs and right after the muffler,weld those on.
matthufham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2005, 01:50 PM   #3
72BlckButy
Tot Roddin'
 
72BlckButy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Mid-MO
Posts: 24,461
I am currently in the same area. I'm planning on picking up the 3.5/5 drop as well, and I'm having a hard time deciding where to run the new exhaust. PURS, are you planning on running an H or X pipe in your system? I would like to regardless of a waste of time/money. I'd rather have it than need it after I get the exhaust buttoned up.
__________________
-Nate

1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6)
1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior)
2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package)
72BlckButy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2005, 03:51 PM   #4
72MARIO
Registered User
 
72MARIO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada
Posts: 4,052
I have my 3" dumping under the box. I would advise running tail pipes of some sort. Out back or in front of the wheels. It's just too loud inside with it dumping under the box. Have to get the sound out from under there.
__________________
1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017
1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck
1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck"
2005 TAHOE DD
72MARIO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2005, 05:43 PM   #5
Purs
Got Big Block?
 
Purs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: West Texas
Posts: 1,510
thanks for the advice guys. I'm scheduled for tomorrow, so we'll see how it goes.

72BlckButy, no X or H Pipe planned for tomorrow. I had an H Pipe on my Chevelle and it helped make it sound REALLY good. If money were no object I'd do an X on this truck but I'm WAY over budget and I've had to make some sacrifices in some areas to get this project finished.

Mario, I'm afraid that under the box will be loud too, but until I relocate my gas tank to the rear it will be dumped in front of the rear diff....
__________________
"Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."
Purs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2005, 06:26 PM   #6
tomatocity
Registered User
 
tomatocity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,255
One of the other board members just went through the same thing and it sounded so bad he thought it was the engine. He added an H pipe and it cured everything. I am going with an X pipe to prevent the sound of two 4 cylinder engines at the same time. Find something in your garage to sell and make it an H or X pipe. One of these days I am going to be able to do my own exhaust and help friends with their exhaust.
__________________
Got bored, sold everthing. Got bored, looking for a 1960-66 C-10. Want to build my last truck.
tomatocity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2005, 08:12 PM   #7
wessscott
Registered User
 
wessscott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 41
take a look

This is a picture of mine. It has an H pipe and is turned down behind the bumper. The hard part was the bends to clear the axle. This truck has a 4/6 drop. It is in for paint and body so this is the only pic I have.
Attached Images
 
__________________
70 step with 68 clip, still in the body shop. GMPP 385 fast burn crate motor, 4:11 eaton. 5 lug 4/6" drop
wessscott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2005, 08:26 PM   #8
matthufham
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Carl Junction, Missouri
Posts: 2,061
do the pipes run through the driveshaft crossmember?
matthufham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2005, 08:33 PM   #9
LUV2XCLR8
The LuvShack Garage
 
LUV2XCLR8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side)
Posts: 30,475
Well it ain't a 2wd, but on pages 16 - 18 in the link within my sig is
pipes dumped out in front of the rear wheels, I chose it because I
used to work at the shop part time that did my work and everyone
and their brother has turn downs, or out the back 45 degree or str.
__________________
Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers"
The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer
Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop
Big Piggy: "Goliath" 07 Kodiak C4500
Lil Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500
Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T

Last edited by LUV2XCLR8; 07-26-2005 at 08:34 PM.
LUV2XCLR8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2005, 09:05 PM   #10
72MARIO
Registered User
 
72MARIO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada
Posts: 4,052
Well if you only drive it 1/2 hour at a time it's not bad. The 3 hour drive's up north and 3 hours back are what made me feel deaf. At least get the dumps angled out to the side.
__________________
1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017
1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck
1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck"
2005 TAHOE DD
72MARIO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2005, 09:20 PM   #11
Low69CST
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA
Posts: 2,163
I would run pipe to infront of the tires. Exhaust gasses can accerlate rust in your truck. I have a lowered truck with dual 3", gas tank, and a sway bar in the back. It gets tight running the pipes over the rear axle, but it's doable. I also have a X-pipe. I don't know if it's the stroker crank, cam, headers, x-pipe, or the combination, but my motor sounds bad ass.
__________________
'69 CST Short fleetside
Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress)
'87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside
Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks
Low69CST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2005, 10:03 PM   #12
55454
55454
 
55454's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lafayette La.
Posts: 340
When you dump straight down get ready to wash your truck when you start it, it will move any dust or dirt, I am a straight out the back fan. If you get hit in the back it could be a problem, but it would be a problem anyway. In 1981 I had BB SWB with factory dual they both exited behind the rear tires. Brit I have two under cab dual hangers blasted for the price of shipping. As for in front of the rear tires I would not like that heat over my tires. Also exhaust fumes trapped under a vehicle will make it rot.

Tommy

72 BB
68 C/10
14 year old chihuahua (factory teeth)
55454 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2005, 10:55 PM   #13
Rokcrln
Senior Member
 
Rokcrln's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Winters Ca. 95694
Posts: 4,843
I have my 71 body droped and I still plan on running it out the back over the diff. I have spent alot of time building the frame and body to let me do this. I have had rigs that just dumped after the mufflers and it sucked big time. I think I will do my own exhaust and run it just how I want it done. It will be 3" duels all the way out and it will have an X or H pipe. Here is a pic of the start of the exhaust om my 4x4 buggy I am building. It is so tight I had to go over the trans. It is 2 1/2" into a two to one colector I made then 3" out.

I bought the mandrel bends from summit and I will be picking out a muffler tomarrow.

Kevin
Attached Images
   
Rokcrln is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2005, 01:07 AM   #14
71Dragtruck
Registered User
 
71Dragtruck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 1,368
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purs
I'm getting the exhaust done this week and need some advice. It will be 3" from the headers to the Magnaflow straight through mufflers. I have a 2.5/3 drop right now. I'll probably end up with a 3.5"/5 drop one of these days. Anyway, I'm most interested in a "free flowing" exhaust system over one that is completely hidden. I've seen how Stacey David did his and my budget won't allow me to run the pipe through the crossmembers. My 2 questions are how and where to run the pipe once I get to the rear trailing arms and 2) should I dump the pipes right in front of the rear end or right in front of the rear tires. Any advice (and pics) would be appreciated.
Just cut your own holes through the cross member, and beef them up with steel doughnuts, shouldn't cost that much even if you had it done at the muffler shop.
71Dragtruck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2005, 01:44 AM   #15
AesC10s
Chevy truck addict
 
AesC10s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Thornton Colorado
Posts: 825
NO EXUAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! STRAIGHT HEADERS! THATS VERY HIDDEN!!!!!
AesC10s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2005, 02:26 AM   #16
tomatocity
Registered User
 
tomatocity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,255
some people were born with a silver spoon and i am guessing you were born with a welder and slide rule (slide rule=old, engineering calculator=new).

Killer exhaust Kevin. I gotta come to your garage and drool.
__________________
Got bored, sold everthing. Got bored, looking for a 1960-66 C-10. Want to build my last truck.
tomatocity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2005, 01:31 PM   #17
72BlckButy
Tot Roddin'
 
72BlckButy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Mid-MO
Posts: 24,461
Tomatocity, is there a better way to go....H or X pipe, or are they about the same?
__________________
-Nate

1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6)
1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior)
2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package)
72BlckButy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2005, 04:42 PM   #18
rivernut
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: guttenberg, iowa
Posts: 38
I had this same dilemna last week. I ran 2 1/2 pipe with exerator pipes and dumped it in front of the rear axle straight from the muffler. I have to agree that it is dusty on gravel. blowing everywhere. It had a terrible tinny noise and was just plain crappy. I put an H pipe in and it got considerably better. I am still trying to decide if I should run them out the back. My suggestion is drop early see how you like it but leave the option to go out the back or to the side if you need to.
__________________
'72 1/2 ton 350 auto
rivernut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2005, 04:45 PM   #19
rivernut
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: guttenberg, iowa
Posts: 38
I forgot. An x pipe is better in my mind but an H pipe is effective and less work for the shop to do so less expensive. Just my perspective.
__________________
'72 1/2 ton 350 auto
rivernut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2005, 06:45 PM   #20
tomatocity
Registered User
 
tomatocity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,255
Quote:
Originally Posted by 72BlckButy
Tomatocity, is there a better way to go....H or X pipe, or are they about the same?
Just my 2 cents! If you are planning on building an exhaust system I would use the X pipe. If you want to correct and existing exhaust system I would use the H pipe. I would guess that the X pipe is more effective than the H pipe since it acts like the collector of a header. The H pipe is more of a bridge though it should have similar properties as the H pipe. If the X is more money than the H then I would not make the effort to get the little performance difference we Street Drivers will ever see. In no way am I an expert at exhaust. Just a concerned truck owner that wants all the quality, looks, and performance I can get for as few dollars as possible.
I had a 1976 Blazer some years ago and I had new exhaust installed by by a local company and it sound weak. They added the H pipe and it sounded much better even with 2" exhaust. This was in 1983.
__________________
Got bored, sold everthing. Got bored, looking for a 1960-66 C-10. Want to build my last truck.
tomatocity is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:29 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com