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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Deerfield, MA USA
Posts: 198
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Cutting holes in crossmember for exhaust.
My truck is a "weekend driver" that only gets out when it's nice and sunny, and I drive less than 1000 miles a year. I don't race it, I just enjoy it.
Now, that being said....I just purchased a set of 3/4 headers from ECE and want to cut holes in my existing crossmember to run the exhaust through. My truck is dropped 4/6 and my current long headers are too low and banged-up. Will I be OK? Should I re-enforce it? How would someone re-enforce it?
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'71 Chevy C-10 - Current '62 Imapla SS - Traded for my current '73 Nova Hatch - traded for ATC-350X '73 Chevelle Deluxe - First car (R.I.P) DEERFIELD, MA |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 1,534
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Project CopperHead on Trucks TV had a cross-member that was cut and reinforced for the dual exhaust. I'm not sure what was used but it looked like a 1-2" section of 4-5" dia. pipe was welded into the holes to strengthen it. I think ECE offers a cross-member designed for lowered trucks.
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'72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Deerfield, MA USA
Posts: 198
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Sweet72, I spoke with the guys over at ECE. I advised that I was tight (very tight) on money, and could only afford the headers. They told me that since my truck is not a "daily driver", I could cut holes in my existing crossmember and not have any issues.
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'71 Chevy C-10 - Current '62 Imapla SS - Traded for my current '73 Nova Hatch - traded for ATC-350X '73 Chevelle Deluxe - First car (R.I.P) DEERFIELD, MA |
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#4 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Palm Desert, Ca
Posts: 410
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What about this?
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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It probably would be OK as you state it's not a daily driver and you don't race it. But I don't think I'd ever feel comfortable without reinforcing the crossmember. Whether it be boxing it (which would be real easy but overkill) or just welding some plate over the hole and larger than what the hole will become. I've got the ECE crossmember pictured above and will be modifying it also as I don't trust it to stay together with what I plan on subjecting it to.
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Carl Junction, Missouri
Posts: 2,061
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brothers and ece makes a kit, but they're for lowered rides. if you're at stock stance the crossmember's hole for the drive shaft would be too high.
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#7 | |
Watch out for your cornhole !
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Quote:
I've cut a bunch of the stock ones and never reinforced the crossmember, without problems.
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
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#8 |
Just Don't Stop!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,239
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mine is just a stock cut one and 600 rwhp later... no problem.
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1968 C10 build in process TT LSA/6L90e/9" |
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#9 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Carl Junction, Missouri
Posts: 2,061
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#10 |
my gas saver
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 2,046
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FirstGen's truck is definetely lowered. it's an awesome truck too with a ton of power.
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85' SWB, 4.3/TH350, getting ready for paint 84`SWB, 462ci./TH400, cowl hood, 15" billet spec., flows, blazer buckets/console, flat black 71`SWB, project ebay feedback |
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#11 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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Quote:
If you are referring to me, info in my sig. Fatman Fab on front w/coilovers and HTH kit in the back. Will have around 550rwhp N/A and around 800rwhp with some nitrous assist. And the crossmember that Brothers sells is ECE's. Ask me how I know.
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA
Posts: 2,163
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Didn't 3/4 tons come braced fromt he factory? You could find a pair of those out of a junk yard. You could also make and weld in some metal to box in the crossmemeber. Also, I think you'll have to mount the exhaust solid to the frame. That means you'll have to install flex joints like they did on Trucks. I'm not sure what they cost.
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'69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks |
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#13 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Carl Junction, Missouri
Posts: 2,061
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Quote:
![]() also you got a nice little truck started there i saw the pics. Last edited by matthufham; 07-29-2005 at 01:47 PM. |
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#14 | |
67 is sold
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,738
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Carl Junction, Missouri
Posts: 2,061
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it probably did since ece basically provided everything for that truck.
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: 10-Uh-See
Posts: 5,609
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Copperhead isn't running the ECE crossmember. They advertised it on TRUCKS! TV after Copperhead was finished. It has a modified stock piece.
I had a friend modify his. He cut holes big enough for 3" pipe. Slid a piece of 3" pipe about 3-4" long and welded em in. He was only gonna use 2 1/4" pipe for his exhaust so he had plenty of clearance. I'm gonna do the same but I'll use bigger pipe so I can run 2 1/2" exhaust. Welding a piece of pipe in actually strengthens the crossmember. Probably better than it was to begin with IMO.
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#17 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: May 2005
Location: East Texas
Posts: 545
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ok, I have every copperhead episode on the DVR, I will have to settle this!
give me a little bit to go through them all and find it... |
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#18 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: May 2005
Location: East Texas
Posts: 545
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68stepbed is correct! man that's an awesome truck!
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#19 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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Quote:
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#20 |
Life is a gamble
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Lee's Summit, MO
Posts: 796
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My truck has holes cut in the crossmemeber and its just fine. I do want to note, that I don't have much horsepower either.
Here is a bad picture of it: ![]()
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1970 Orange CST C-10 w/350, posi, Longbed The torpid artist seeks inspiration at any cost, by virtue or by vice, by friend or by fiend, by prayer or by wine. -- Ralph Waldo Emerson Last edited by ACES; 07-30-2005 at 05:44 AM. |
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#21 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Carl Junction, Missouri
Posts: 2,061
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#22 | |
67 is sold
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,738
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Quote:
Here is the best pic I can find of Copperhead's setup. I should have looked closer when it was here in February ![]() ![]() |
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#23 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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One thing to note on Copperhead's exhaust design. Notice that the exhaust is attached to the drivetrain (except for whatever hangers are used aft of te mufflers). The headers are of course bolted to the heads and a hard bracket off the tranny for additional support. This allows the exhaust system to move with the drivetrain as opposed to being stressed when it gets "torqued" over. A good idea and well designed.
One other thing, I assumed a trailing arm suspension. If the truck is a leaf spring set up I wouldn't think twice. But as the trailing arms mount to that crossmember on the coil spring trucks I can't imagine what sort of stress that crossmember could be under especially subjected to launches and high hp/tq engines. Daily driver would probably be fine but I don't think I'd want to push it with a vehicle that also has weekend track duty.
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#24 |
Account Suspended
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: PA
Posts: 1,411
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Here's what I would do:
First if you must cut holes in a crossmember that has trailing arms attached to it, cut the holes ROUND and at least 1/4" larger than the outside diameter of the exhaust pipe, (1/2" all the way around would be better). Next Fab up some pieces of 3/16" to 1/4" plate that have the same diameter hole cut through them. Make the plates as tall as you can, and still be able to weld them all the way around onto the crossmember and inside the hole. These 'scabbed' on plates will reinforce the crossmember at the exhaust pass through area and probably make it stronger than it was uncut. Just my $.02 72longbed |
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Deerfield, MA USA
Posts: 198
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Thanks alot folks, I appreciate it greatly. I have trailing arms, so I WILL re-enforce the crossmember.
I especially like (2) ideas. 68Stepbed's suggestion of cutting 3" holes and welding 3" pipes in place. Cause, I will not be using anything larger than 2 1/2" pipes. The other being plates, cut 1/4" larger than outside diameter the freshly cut holes, and welded in place.
__________________
'71 Chevy C-10 - Current '62 Imapla SS - Traded for my current '73 Nova Hatch - traded for ATC-350X '73 Chevelle Deluxe - First car (R.I.P) DEERFIELD, MA |
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