Need info on buying a blazer - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

*chevytruckfan* · 08-08-2005, 07:04 PM

I have the opportunity to buy a 2wd jimmy. I would like to find out some info on the number of 2wd jimmys made in 72, and also areas to look out for. On my truck I know the ususal suspects like rockers, cab corners, etc., but what about the jimmys? What are some of the issues witht the fiberglass top/hatch? Also can a 67 front clip or 72 chevy grill fit on the jimmys? The seller is asking $5500 and I will try to post some pics later tonight so you can get a good idea if it is a good deal or not.

LUV2XCLR8 · 08-08-2005, 07:10 PM

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=104816

2wd's are the HOLY GRAIL of blazers, if you can afford it, buy it

**raggedjim** · 08-08-2005, 07:31 PM

The number of Jimmy's built is even less than the blazers (especially now that all those short sighted people replaced the fronts with chebby parts...

)

I have a 2wd jimmy and was going to change to the 68 chevy front until I started thinking about it. You can do what you want, but I've seen a ton of 2wd blazers with the 68 chevy front and VERY few 2wd Jimmy's...

As far as problem areas, rocker panels floorboards, windshield frames (big time deal breaker), rocker boxes (look underneath beside the doors, if there's not a box shaped thing there then it has rusted out...). Most of the rest is like the trucks. Most all parts can be found reproduced (with a few exceptions).

Look for missing hardware also, these things add up...

Good luck no matter what you decide! Rg

71swb4x4 · 08-08-2005, 08:44 PM

Buy it, they are few and far between.
I have a 71 Jimmy that I just changed over to a 68 Chevy front. You have to change the core support, hood, and grille. Bumper and trim too if you want to be correct.
I think it would be really cool if you swapped in a 67/68 chrome GMC front end. That would be different and cool! Mine may make it there some day.

*chevytruckfan* · 08-08-2005, 10:20 PM

Still having problems loading pics. How do I check the rust around the windshield? Also, I am not familiar with GMC vins, how do I check the to make sure it is not a conversion.

Well after 2 hrs of trying to resized photos I just put them in my yahoo photo album. Check them out.

http://photos.yahoo.com/millermickey7

Thanks for the replies, I am going tomorrow to take a look. I will have my check book for a deposit just in case.

bouncytruck · 08-08-2005, 10:49 PM

Most of the rust spots are the same as the trucks. Do make sure to pull the top back to check under it along the top edge of the windshield frame. Check the door post behind the front seats. Check the above the hinge on the doors for cracks (fairly easy fix with new doors). Rocker boxes (as described above) are the main support when the top is off. They tend to collect dirt & mosture leading to rust. They do make replacements now, but they are a lot of work to replace.

Most conversions still have leaf springs in the back.

You can swap front clips around from all the years and/or chevy clips.

npbra · 08-08-2005, 11:32 PM

I don't know how many 72 4x2 Jimmy's were sold in the USA, but only 112 were sold in Canada that year. I paid $5000 Cdn for my Jimmy two years ago, (that's about $1.50 USD) and it's about the same condition as the one you are looking at. It appears to be a good deal. True 4x2 Jimmy's are getting hard to get. My $.02 worth would say to keep the GMC front on it as they are rare.

71swb4x4 · 08-09-2005, 08:40 AM

It's always hard to tell in pictures, but is this a high hump? If it is that could be a sign that it is a conversion. Of course it could also mean that they swapped a high hump in at one time, so it may be nothing.
I can never tell in pictures, anyone else want to take a stab?

71jimmy · 08-09-2005, 06:56 PM

From those few pictures it looks sweet for the price. The VIN for GMC (this is out of my 71 GMC service manual) is a 5 digit number preceeded by two letters. First letter can be " C, conventional cab, Suburban", "K, four wheel drive", or "P, forward control". Second letter is engine type, "A, all", "E, V-8 gasoline", or "S, L-6 gasoline". First number = GVW range. Second and third number = Cab - axle dimensions. Fourth and Fifth number = body styles (a 14 here indicates Utility (Jimmy)).

*chevytruckfan* · 08-09-2005, 09:24 PM

Got a chance to go take a closer look today. Here is the preliminary info:

VIN: TCE182F509934
Engine: V0915PHM Seller said an 88 350, but couldn't get to the back of the block. Seller has Documentation on the rebuilt approx 21000 mi and 8yrs ago. an engergizer cam 204/204 @ .050 lift Edelbrock 2101 intake edelbrok carb (not sure of the model) Engine is dry, TH350 trans leaks.
Has PS, PB, and AC ( Not sure if it is factory installed or just aftermarket)
Comes with extra hard top and hatch, a soft top, and an extra GMC front grille.

Now for the bad news.
Needs rockers inner and outer
all four inner wheel wells
passenger floor pan
and areas in the bed/back around the wheel wells that will have to be replaced.

I am estimating about 1500-$2000 for this work parts and labor? Is this too high or too low?

Also the paint job isn't as good as in the photos but it is ok (a 20 ft.er) but up close you can see paint bubbling in small areas on just about every panel, the doors, and tail gate.

Seller wants $5k tried to negotiate $3K to $3500 based on the body work needed as described above plus a problem somewhere in the drivetrain after a short drive. Am I too low? or about right even with the work that needs to be done?

71swb4x4 · 08-09-2005, 09:43 PM

With the way you describe it I would say $3,000 - $3,500 is about right. It wouldn't be the end of the world to pay $4,000, but it may induce a bit of buyer's remorse for a few days.

71jimmy · 08-09-2005, 09:54 PM

1500-2000 for what your describing it's too low if your expecting to find someone to do all this work for you. You'll find lots more rust once you start pulling things apart. By the way, that's an aftermarket a/c unit. Your VIN is different than my '71 book, of course your looking at a '72.

Correction to my previous post about VIN, there's actually an additional 6 digits that depict the unit number, ie. this is the 346th one built etc.

*chevytruckfan* · 08-11-2005, 10:02 AM

Well finally got the vin decoded correctly. It was a little harder tring to find GMC. But here is a good resource I found on Google.

http://www.autofacts.ca/classics/VIN...evyTrucks72-80

Ok here is what I found.

T=GMC
C=2wd
E=V8 Engine
1=1/2 T
8=Jimmy
2=1972
F= Flint, MI assembly
.........production #

Engine
V=Assembly plant Flint, MI
09=September
15= 15th

Anybody know what PHM from the engine code is for?
Any blazer/jimmy experts out there have a rough idea of the number of these that were made?

71swb4x4 · 08-11-2005, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Fabris

1972

1/2-Ton Blazer 4x2 - Model C/Series 10 - 104-in. w.b.
MODEL BODY TYPE PRICE WEIGHT PROD.TOTAL
CS10514 Open Utility 2585 3375 3357

That is from Luv's link up top. I believe Jimmy's were at most 1/3 (probably less) of what Chevy numbers were, so I would guess you are looking at less than 1,000 2wd Jimmy's in 1972. Just a guess though.

mastercraftkpk · 08-11-2005, 04:00 PM

Anything is only worth as much as someone is wiling to pay for it..OR what you have tricked the insurance company into insuring it for.

While the GMC 2WD is less common, it is probably not as rare as a running AMC Pacer of any year...and I don't think that they are worth anything.

That being said, the GMC rarity may net you an extra 10-15% in value IMO. That means it's worth $500-$750 if the whole truck is worth $5000.

Given what you've described, I would recommend paying no more than $3000 for if. If the seller wants more, I would let it go and watch him try to sell it for a while. If you've fallen in love with it, then get it. You can't put a price tag on love. (Well actually..you probably can, but I don't want to know).

If you get it..be SURE to drive it as is for at least 1 year. That way you can remember all of the fun you had while it takes you 3 years to do the frame off resto that you think will take you only 8 months.

**FRENCHBLUE72** · 08-12-2005, 09:51 AM

My guess is low hump but I am also guessing the seller thinks he has gold because his buddies told him how rare it is and that he could get a lot of $$$ for it.. I would offer him $3000 to $3500 for it if he takes it great if not let him sit on it.. If it was meant to be then it will be yours...

*chevytruckfan* · 08-12-2005, 10:25 AM

Thanks for all of the replys, all of your advice has been a great help. I made an offer to the seller for $3K. I just wanted to make sure it was a fair offer. If I thought it was worth what the seller is asking it would be sitting in my garage by now. I am willing to go a little higher. I have not heard back from him yet but if he negotiates and it is somewhere in between I will go ahead and buy it. I think he is alittle high because of the other goodies he has in his garage. Full of Street rods and projects. Mostly Willys, a 41 hot rod, a 33 gasser drag car (Fully restored) and a Willys pickup. He also has a 67 chevy 1 ton car hauler. Nice truck, but the Jimmy is a project and I am only going to by it for what I think is fair.

08-08-2005, 07:04 PM	#1
chevytruckfan Account Suspended Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lake Placid, Florida Posts: 930	Need info on buying a blazer I have the opportunity to buy a 2wd jimmy. I would like to find out some info on the number of 2wd jimmys made in 72, and also areas to look out for. On my truck I know the ususal suspects like rockers, cab corners, etc., but what about the jimmys? What are some of the issues witht the fiberglass top/hatch? Also can a 67 front clip or 72 chevy grill fit on the jimmys? The seller is asking $5500 and I will try to post some pics later tonight so you can get a good idea if it is a good deal or not.

08-08-2005, 07:10 PM	#2
LUV2XCLR8 The LuvShack Garage Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side) Posts: 30,475	http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=104816 2wd's are the HOLY GRAIL of blazers, if you can afford it, buy it __________________ Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Big Piggy: "Goliath" 07 Kodiak C4500 Lil Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T Last edited by LUV2XCLR8; 08-08-2005 at 07:11 PM.

08-08-2005, 07:31 PM	#3
raggedjim Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Murray, Kentucky Posts: 3,450	The number of Jimmy's built is even less than the blazers (especially now that all those short sighted people replaced the fronts with chebby parts... ) I have a 2wd jimmy and was going to change to the 68 chevy front until I started thinking about it. You can do what you want, but I've seen a ton of 2wd blazers with the 68 chevy front and VERY few 2wd Jimmy's... As far as problem areas, rocker panels floorboards, windshield frames (big time deal breaker), rocker boxes (look underneath beside the doors, if there's not a box shaped thing there then it has rusted out...). Most of the rest is like the trucks. Most all parts can be found reproduced (with a few exceptions). Look for missing hardware also, these things add up... Good luck no matter what you decide! Rg __________________ Roger '68 Short step - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=849675 '69 ('70?) 2wd Blazer '70 GMC Jimmy 2wd '73 Firebird - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=853203

08-08-2005, 08:44 PM	#4
71swb4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brookings, SD Posts: 10,497	Buy it, they are few and far between. I have a 71 Jimmy that I just changed over to a 68 Chevy front. You have to change the core support, hood, and grille. Bumper and trim too if you want to be correct. I think it would be really cool if you swapped in a 67/68 chrome GMC front end. That would be different and cool! Mine may make it there some day. __________________ Some people are like slinkies, they aren't good for anything, but you can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs.

08-08-2005, 10:20 PM	#5
chevytruckfan Account Suspended Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lake Placid, Florida Posts: 930	Still having problems loading pics. How do I check the rust around the windshield? Also, I am not familiar with GMC vins, how do I check the to make sure it is not a conversion. Well after 2 hrs of trying to resized photos I just put them in my yahoo photo album. Check them out. http://photos.yahoo.com/millermickey7 Thanks for the replies, I am going tomorrow to take a look. I will have my check book for a deposit just in case. Last edited by chevytruckfan; 08-08-2005 at 10:54 PM.

08-08-2005, 10:49 PM	#6
bouncytruck SKINNY TIRES RULE! Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Bothell, WA Posts: 11,049	Most of the rust spots are the same as the trucks. Do make sure to pull the top back to check under it along the top edge of the windshield frame. Check the door post behind the front seats. Check the above the hinge on the doors for cracks (fairly easy fix with new doors). Rocker boxes (as described above) are the main support when the top is off. They tend to collect dirt & mosture leading to rust. They do make replacements now, but they are a lot of work to replace. Most conversions still have leaf springs in the back. You can swap front clips around from all the years and/or chevy clips. __________________ bouncytruck 1972 K5 The Hauler 1994 K1500 Suburban The Daily2010 Kia Soul Wife's Ride2014 Fiat 500L

08-08-2005, 11:32 PM	#7
npbra Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Grande Prairie Alberta Posts: 26	I don't know how many 72 4x2 Jimmy's were sold in the USA, but only 112 were sold in Canada that year. I paid $5000 Cdn for my Jimmy two years ago, (that's about $1.50 USD) and it's about the same condition as the one you are looking at. It appears to be a good deal. True 4x2 Jimmy's are getting hard to get. My $.02 worth would say to keep the GMC front on it as they are rare. __________________ Northern Alberta Firefighter with too many toys. 1972 Blazer 4x4 1972 Jimmy 2x4 1967 Camaro RS/SS x 2 1976 Corvette 1969 Chev Panel 1969 Chev C-10

08-09-2005, 08:40 AM	#8
71swb4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brookings, SD Posts: 10,497	It's always hard to tell in pictures, but is this a high hump? If it is that could be a sign that it is a conversion. Of course it could also mean that they swapped a high hump in at one time, so it may be nothing. I can never tell in pictures, anyone else want to take a stab? Attached Images __________________ Some people are like slinkies, they aren't good for anything, but you can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs.

08-09-2005, 06:56 PM	#9
71jimmy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 1,084	From those few pictures it looks sweet for the price. The VIN for GMC (this is out of my 71 GMC service manual) is a 5 digit number preceeded by two letters. First letter can be " C, conventional cab, Suburban", "K, four wheel drive", or "P, forward control". Second letter is engine type, "A, all", "E, V-8 gasoline", or "S, L-6 gasoline". First number = GVW range. Second and third number = Cab - axle dimensions. Fourth and Fifth number = body styles (a 14 here indicates Utility (Jimmy)). __________________ '71 Jimmy, 350, SM465, NP205, 2in Tuff Country lift, 33s on rallies, TBI, softtop and hardtop "If life was fair you'd be able to afford one of each and a garage large enough to house them all."

08-09-2005, 09:24 PM	#10
chevytruckfan Account Suspended Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lake Placid, Florida Posts: 930	Got a chance to go take a closer look today. Here is the preliminary info: VIN: TCE182F509934 Engine: V0915PHM Seller said an 88 350, but couldn't get to the back of the block. Seller has Documentation on the rebuilt approx 21000 mi and 8yrs ago. an engergizer cam 204/204 @ .050 lift Edelbrock 2101 intake edelbrok carb (not sure of the model) Engine is dry, TH350 trans leaks. Has PS, PB, and AC ( Not sure if it is factory installed or just aftermarket) Comes with extra hard top and hatch, a soft top, and an extra GMC front grille. Now for the bad news. Needs rockers inner and outer all four inner wheel wells passenger floor pan and areas in the bed/back around the wheel wells that will have to be replaced. I am estimating about 1500-$2000 for this work parts and labor? Is this too high or too low? Also the paint job isn't as good as in the photos but it is ok (a 20 ft.er) but up close you can see paint bubbling in small areas on just about every panel, the doors, and tail gate. Seller wants $5k tried to negotiate $3K to $3500 based on the body work needed as described above plus a problem somewhere in the drivetrain after a short drive. Am I too low? or about right even with the work that needs to be done?

08-09-2005, 09:43 PM	#11
71swb4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brookings, SD Posts: 10,497	With the way you describe it I would say $3,000 - $3,500 is about right. It wouldn't be the end of the world to pay $4,000, but it may induce a bit of buyer's remorse for a few days. __________________ Some people are like slinkies, they aren't good for anything, but you can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs.

08-09-2005, 09:54 PM	#12
71jimmy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 1,084	1500-2000 for what your describing it's too low if your expecting to find someone to do all this work for you. You'll find lots more rust once you start pulling things apart. By the way, that's an aftermarket a/c unit. Your VIN is different than my '71 book, of course your looking at a '72. Correction to my previous post about VIN, there's actually an additional 6 digits that depict the unit number, ie. this is the 346th one built etc. __________________ '71 Jimmy, 350, SM465, NP205, 2in Tuff Country lift, 33s on rallies, TBI, softtop and hardtop "If life was fair you'd be able to afford one of each and a garage large enough to house them all."

08-11-2005, 10:02 AM	#13
chevytruckfan Account Suspended Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lake Placid, Florida Posts: 930	VIN decoder Well finally got the vin decoded correctly. It was a little harder tring to find GMC. But here is a good resource I found on Google. http://www.autofacts.ca/classics/VIN...evyTrucks72-80 Ok here is what I found. T=GMC C=2wd E=V8 Engine 1=1/2 T 8=Jimmy 2=1972 F= Flint, MI assembly .........production # Engine V=Assembly plant Flint, MI 09=September 15= 15th Anybody know what PHM from the engine code is for? Any blazer/jimmy experts out there have a rough idea of the number of these that were made? Last edited by chevytruckfan; 08-11-2005 at 01:14 PM.

08-11-2005, 04:00 PM	#15
mastercraftkpk Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: houston,tx Posts: 334	Anything is only worth as much as someone is wiling to pay for it..OR what you have tricked the insurance company into insuring it for. While the GMC 2WD is less common, it is probably not as rare as a running AMC Pacer of any year...and I don't think that they are worth anything. That being said, the GMC rarity may net you an extra 10-15% in value IMO. That means it's worth $500-$750 if the whole truck is worth $5000. Given what you've described, I would recommend paying no more than $3000 for if. If the seller wants more, I would let it go and watch him try to sell it for a while. If you've fallen in love with it, then get it. You can't put a price tag on love. (Well actually..you probably can, but I don't want to know). If you get it..be SURE to drive it as is for at least 1 year. That way you can remember all of the fun you had while it takes you 3 years to do the frame off resto that you think will take you only 8 months. __________________ They are not "insurgents"...they're vermin, cowards, and terrorists. Egon..." I think that they are more interested in my epipedimus."

08-12-2005, 09:51 AM	#16
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,592	My guess is low hump but I am also guessing the seller thinks he has gold because his buddies told him how rare it is and that he could get a lot of $$$ for it.. I would offer him $3000 to $3500 for it if he takes it great if not let him sit on it.. If it was meant to be then it will be yours... __________________ GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P..



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08-12-2005, 10:25 AM	#17
chevytruckfan Account Suspended Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lake Placid, Florida Posts: 930	Thanks for all of the replys, all of your advice has been a great help. I made an offer to the seller for $3K. I just wanted to make sure it was a fair offer. If I thought it was worth what the seller is asking it would be sitting in my garage by now. I am willing to go a little higher. I have not heard back from him yet but if he negotiates and it is somewhere in between I will go ahead and buy it. I think he is alittle high because of the other goodies he has in his garage. Full of Street rods and projects. Mostly Willys, a 41 hot rod, a 33 gasser drag car (Fully restored) and a Willys pickup. He also has a 67 chevy 1 ton car hauler. Nice truck, but the Jimmy is a project and I am only going to by it for what I think is fair.

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